1. Mongolian
The origin of Mongolian costumes can be traced back to the distant prehistoric period. As far back as the Paleolithic Age, human beings began to groom themselves with the leaves of plants, and later took the skins of hunted animals to make clothes.
On the petroglyphs of the nomadic peoples of the north, ancient humans on the Mongolian plateau have been seen wearing a short skirt of animal skins around their waists, with long feathers sticking out of their heads, and in some cases, tail ornaments on their hips. And there have been a large number of crude stone rings, bone ornaments and other items, indicating that in the very early days, the northern nomadic people have aesthetic intentions and aesthetic pursuit. According to the archaeological data, it is proved that the costumes of the Mongols are in the same line with those of the northern nomads in ancient China.
According to the "Book of Han - Xiongnu Biography", the headdress of Xiongnu women who "eat animal meat" and wear "felt fur" is very similar to that of Chahar women, and the Xiongnu's dress culture was passed on to the northern nomadic peoples such as Xianbei, Zoran, Turkic, etc. Of course, it was also passed on to the Mongols. And of course it was also passed on to the Mongols. And these national costumes of a **** the same characteristics is adapted to the plateau climate and produced.
Mongolian clothing has its own aesthetic characteristics, the Mongolian people especially prefer bright, bright colors, these colors make people feel bright tone, physical and mental recreation. The Mongolian people also advocate white, sky blue, such a number of pure, bright colors. Blue sky and white clouds, green grass and red clothes, a natural harmony.
Additionally, from the Mongolian national dress style, praise clothing, that reflects the curve of the human body, but also reflects the Mongolian herdsmen generous, rough and open character.
Mongolians live on the Mongolian plateau, the cold climate and to nomadic herdsmen as the main, the time of the horse activity is relatively long, therefore, its clothing must have a strong role in the cold and easy to ride, robes, kangshi, leather hats, leather boots naturally became their first choice of clothing.
"Black Tartar" in: "its clothes right over, the clothing collar, a few for the square collar, to felt, leather, leather, silk production, clothing fat, long drag the ground, winter clothing two fur, a fur to the inside, a fur to the outside, men and women with similar styles".
This type of clothing, after a slight reform, used today, men and women in pastoral areas are used. Sub-clip, cotton, leather 3 kinds. Winter in sheep fur, more silk, satin, cloth for the surface, summer wear cloth, silk, satin, silk and other materials. Generally use red, yellow, purple, dark blue. Sleeve length is narrow, the hem is not open, the lapel and the hem are mostly edged with velvet, and the width of the edge is about 6 to 9 centimeters. When wearing slightly upward, to red, purple and other colors of satin ribbon tightly bound waist, both ends of the floating hanging waist.
From ancient times to the Mongolian Khanate, from the Yuan, Ming, Qing Dynasty to the present, with the development of history, successive generations of the Mongolian people in the long-term life and production practice, play their own ingenuity and continue to absorb the essence of the fraternal ethnic costumes, gradually improve and enrich their traditional costumes of the types, styles, fabrics, colors, sewing technology, etc., to create a lot of exquisite costumes, for the Chinese people's The Chinese people's dress culture has added a brilliant light.
2, Manchu dress
Ming Dynasty, south to Liaodong area of the Manchu people, their clothing is cloth, leather both. Until the Nurhachu rate after the army, their clothing is disorganized, the phenomenon of "up and down the same clothes". Until Huang taiji era, the crown began to have customized. After the customs, from the emperor to the soldiers of the crown, summer and winter replacement, are customized, insurmountable.
As for the idle Banner, men are robes, made of silk or cloth, jacket and coat, until the Xinhai Revolution, the rate is considered normal. Manchu women's cheongsam, more development, like to make with silk. In Beijing and other places prevalent "eighteen inlay" practice, that is, set eighteen ways to look good, the style has also become a wide robe with big sleeves, for the Qing generation of fashion.
After the Xinhai Revolution, the style of cheongsam changed from fat to thin, and there are long and short-sleeved points. After continuous improvement, the general style is: straight collar, narrow sleeves, right open lapel, nail buckle trip, tight waist, dress length to below the knee, both sides of the fork. Nurhachu in the unification of the female real tribes, the establishment of the Jin regime, the implementation of the eight banners system, the Manchu people in the flag, so they wear robes will be known as the "flag dress", "flag dress".
3, Tibetan dress
The Tibetan dress is the most ancient, existing physical information is the site of Chandu Karuo unearthed a small number of decorations, a piece of ornamental hairpin, Juan, beads, necklaces, cards, shellfish, etc., reflecting the 4,000 or 5,000 years ago, the Tibetan Plateau, the indigenous inhabitants of the Tibetan Plateau has been a high degree of aesthetic interest, not only have a sewing clothing needle, but also have a certain need to create aesthetic consciousness can be created Juan, beads and so on.
Tibetan clothing culture has been a greater development." In two Ding Wang" (equivalent to the middle of the Western Han Dynasty), the southern Yalong Valley of the Tubo began smelting iron, copper, silver and other minerals, for the emergence of metal jewelry to create the conditions. Tibetan history records, the third century A.D. La Touzhi Nianzhan, Tubo Zanpu's clothing has been different, there is a difference in the level of clothing.
The history of Songtsen Gampo period, the history of the Tubo turned a new page, the rapid development of the Tubo culture, its dress culture is increasingly developed. Tubo slavery dynasty hierarchical, in the performance of the dress is also increasingly complete.
From the Dunhuang murals reflecting the Tubo time can be seen, the hierarchical differences in the dress of the king and his subjects, the king of Tibet is generally only able to use the Zanpou three-petal crown banded with grooves decorated brimless hat, red, usually higher than the average person's hat; the king of Tibet's attendants or ministers tend to wear a flat-topped hat without a brim.
The style of clothing and robes also varies, the officials of the chapter of the decorative provisions of a first-class Thurible, second-class gold, third-class gold-covered silver, fourth-class silver, fifth-class copper, sixth-class iron and other sizes of the two categories, **** twelve levels, mounted on the chest in a three-inch square box, in order to differentiate between the positions of high and low.
The helmet of the general has a shape such as the tower of the decoration, warrior helmet with three colored flags to indicate the birth of the year, with the "only to harden for the industry" the development of the smelting industry in Tubo, the army's armor is becoming more and more sophisticated, some of the circumference of the body is only exposed to the two eye sockets, the strong bow and sharp edges can not be broken, and its majesty, courageous in today's murals in the Showa Temple, Tubo warriors like still vividly in sight. Tubo aristocrats not only wear expensive, but also in the party feast, the servants decorated.
And as the zanpu songtsen gampo is a red belt wrapped head, wearing a long robe, foot wearing toe up boots, according to "red history", this kind of king's clothing is affected by the persian dynasty, reflecting the cultural exchanges have affected the level of dress culture, and from songtsen gampo start of the tufan and the central plains of the close interaction between the two national cultures of the two long-term contact with the development of more Tibetan clothing injected fresh blood.
When Princess Wencheng entered Tibet, she brought in 20,000 pieces of satin, brocade, damask, and various colors of clothing, as well as a large number of gold and jade utensils. Songtsen Gampo and Tubo ministers have removed their own felt fur, changed to wear silk. In recent times, Tibet's senior officials, hair into a bun, wearing a gold winged white hat, which is the Tang Dynasty scholar's clothing.
In addition, also adopted the Princess of Wencheng proposal, so that the people of the country prohibited "ochre face" (with oil on the face), Princess of Wencheng into Tibet also brought the cultivation of silkworms and textile technology, "planting silk weaving Ruoxi" greatly promote the development of the Tubo clothing technology, a large number of Tubo clothing unearthed in Haixi State, Qinghai, Tubo clothing artifacts, a true, vividly reflect the Tubo clothing level of craftsmanship.
The fabric pattern of the garment is mostly animal pattern with beads, and the gold jewelry and ornaments make people marvel at the beauty of the decorations. Today's Tibetan women's jewelry inlaid form, can be found in these artifacts prototype.
Tubo was a military empire, in the process of its development, the conquest and integration of the Tibetan plateau and its fringe areas of many other ethnic groups, which is the cause of today's cultural differences between the Tibetan people in various regions. The same is true for the expression of dress.
Tubo era, this difference is mainly manifested in the East female, attached to the country, the party and other tribal dress, East female tribes live in KangYanChuan (now ChangDu), in the matriarchal clan society development stage, the queen of its wear green wool damask (serge) skirt, on the blue robe, sleeve length to the ground, winter wear with the brocade decorated with the lambs fur. Seizure hair bun-like, two ears pendant danno (earrings). The feet wear leather boots. Generally, men wore hair, women wore hair, and both men and women painted their faces with color.
The king died in mourning for three years, not easy to serve, not combed. Attachment is a Tibetan-Qiang fusion of the Jiajung Tibetans centered on Ganzi in present-day Sichuan, including the area around Aba in present-day Sichuan. They wore round leather hats, or with Mou Li Jia (i.e., a kind of mask ornaments, for women). They wear Mao Hoya Mao (serge), leather fur, and cowhide shoes. They wore iron cords around their necks and iron bracelets in their hands. The king and the chiefs used gold as jewelry, and three-inch-long gold flowers hung from their chests.
Dang Xiang is a pure nomadic tribes, "service felt attack brown, felt as a decoration," as early as the Northern Zhou has been able to manufacture fine rhinoceros armor, iron armor. Northwestern Sichuan is also part of the Dang Xiang tribal alliance of Deng to, Wu Xing Guo and Dangchang, dress custom for the head of Tibetan U Soap Turk riding hat, wearing a robe, under the small mouth pants, feet wearing leather boots, and now the Sichuan pastoral Tibetan dress is similar.
In addition to the Qinghai region, there are tuguzhun, noblewomen wearing brocade robes, wearing gold flower crown. Such as female hairstyle for the identification of the hair behind, after decorative beads and shells, to a wide range of noble, this dress is roughly the same with the Tibetan women in Qinghai today. These regional dress characteristics are the mother type of the different Tibetan costumes around today.
After the collapse of the Tubo Dynasty, from the middle of the ninth century to the eleventh century, more than two hundred years, Tibetan society has been in a chaotic situation of division and division. This period of war and chaos, the development of the art of dress is not immune to doom, stagnation, while the war-related warrior costumes but the development of the time. In the ruins of Ali Guge Kingdom, excavated a large number of ancient warrior armor and weapons.
This period of dress development is also characterized by the rise of Buddhist monks dress. In the eighth century A.D., the first monks appeared in Tibet, clothing by the Zangpo government library supply, and later by the people, the government **** with the supply. Buddhist dress also formed a hierarchical distinction, and there are festivals and ordinary different attire, self-contained system. Many of the upper monks live in luxury, gorgeous clothes, "sitting under heavy underclothing, on the umbrella cover, dressed in brocade ......".
Early Tibetan monks dress by the Indian influence is very big. According to legend, the earliest Beixia cap is given by the king of India to Nyingma Dharma King Lotus and passed down, become a kind of Tibetan monks cap, but later Tibetan monks clothing diffraction development faster, very local color. More than two hundred years after the destruction of Buddha by Rang Dharma, Buddhism re-emerged, and formed many schools, each school not only in the interpretation of the teachings of the sutras are different, but also in the dress wear is not the same.
The ancient Nyingmapa monks wore red robes, so they were also known as the Red Sect. The Kagyu sect, on the other hand, wears red or black hats to show the difference between the various branches. This phenomenon of characterizing identity and beliefs with costumes is one of the important functions of Tibetan costume culture, and it is also one of the distinctive features in the history of Tibetan costumes.
During the Yuan Dynasty, Tibet was subordinate to the central dynasty, and thus had close interaction with the Yuan Dynasty in all aspects of culture, and the influence on costumes was also greater than that of the previous dynasty. The yuan dynasty in Tibet, the feudal appeasement of the ambassador, the ambassador, ten thousand households and other officials at all levels, different grades wearing different flowers decorated Tibetan robes, wearing a different crown, even before the democratic reform of the government of kasha, the name of a four-grade official uniforms are still retained in the yuan dynasty called "inch zha huar baima".
The main symbol of official status is also manifested in the Mongolian-style "Jiangda" (i.e., round crown) on the top of the differences. Officials and nobles of the housekeeper, attendants, servants of the hat also has a certain form, the big housekeeper in the rituals to wear "Suo Xia" (i.e., flat top around the fringe Mongolia cap) and so on.
There is also a kind of aristocrats usually wear "summer wood package more" cake-shaped cap, housekeeper or root cloth (township official), etc. also often wear, this period of Sakya upper officials, aristocrats dress or modeled on Mongolian aristocrats, or directly for the yuan dynasty gift, wear very common. The northern Tibetan pastoral area and the Mongolian interaction more, so far there is still a certain Mongolian dress custom.
Tibetan dress in the Yuan Dynasty is another feature of religious beliefs on the dress of the influence increases. With the rise of Buddhism, strict monastic hierarchy tends to form, so that the religious culture in a variety of forms and means of infiltration in clothing, shoes and hats, and to specific patterns or symbols to express a specific meaning. This phenomenon also affects the folk attire, such as the emergence of imitation robe color Tibetan robes and printed with religious symbols and Buddhist treasures of the decorations and so on.
During the Ming Dynasty, the ties between the central government and Tibet were further strengthened. The Ming dynasty set up Ushizang line commanders and Dogan line commanders, jurisdiction over Tibet, Gansu, Qinghai and western Sichuan Tibetan area, and often rewarded to the Tibetan upper class nobles with a large number of brocade, silk, underclothing mattresses. And from the Tibetan tribute items, serge, hair tassel, foot force hemp, iron force hemp and other textile items accounted for most of the tribute.
Indicates that the textile industry in the Tibetan area at that time also has a great development. And the textile industry is the basis for the development of clothing. For the development of Tibetan clothing industry in the Ming Dynasty to provide another excellent condition is the Central Plains and Tibet official folk a large number of tea and horse trade, for Tibet imported a large number of cloth, silk, satin and finished textile products, these trades are difficult to reach in any previous era.
In addition, the Ming Dynasty Tibet's Tibetan theater art has a great development, and Tibetan theater art is inseparable from the art of clothing art also naturally rise rapidly. In addition to the daily costumes of the historical aristocrats, Tibetan opera costumes also developed another type of highly exaggerated costumes and a large number of masks. And these costumes and masks are strictly configured according to the status and identity of the theater characters, and serve their character traits.
These costumes were colorful and exaggerated, focusing on expressiveness and strong decorative effects, and successfully brought Tibetan costumes onto the theater stage after artistic treatment, adding new blood to Tibetan costume culture. At the same time, it greatly promoted the development of Tibetan theater, dance, fine arts and other arts.
The Qing Dynasty was a unified multi-ethnic country unprecedented in Chinese history. During this period, the cultures of most of China's ethnic groups developed tremendously and became increasingly stereotyped. It has the closest connection with today. Tibetan dress culture is no exception, so we will focus on the dress culture of Tibetans in the Qing Dynasty, and do further exploration on the structure, artistic characteristics, aesthetic features, and production techniques of Tibetan dress culture, in order to help deepen the characteristics of Tibetan dress culture.
4. Zhuang Clothing
Before the end of the Qing Dynasty (1911), the clothes worn by the Zhuang people were self-spun, self-woven and self-sewn. At that time, women's clothing looked colorful compared with men's. They wore a big lapel blue dry clothes on the upper part, the lapel from the collar nest to the right armpit, both sleeves, are embroidered with big lace, the collar is short, showing the neck.
The lower part of the dress was an ankle-length folded skirt, or wide pants with lace, outside the skirt, the heart of the two legs, each embroidered with a vertical symmetry of the large lace, a few folds in the hips, the foot of the skirt under the hips rolled up to an inch or so, and the two sides with a few stitches to form the skirt after the foot of the bow-shaped cocked skirt from the front to see the barrel skirt, behind the back of the skirt is a folded skirt, the top and bottom of the skirt close to the body, the lines of the exceptionally bright, very elegant.
Feet on the round mouth embroidered shoes. The blouse worn by Zhuang men is a black cloth lapel coat with a round collar and wide sleeves, with 7-9 buttons on both lapels, and the buttons are woven with black cloth.
The underclothes that men wear, namely pants, are also black cloth, with wide cuffs, generally 1-1.2 sizes. Adults, especially the elderly, head wrapped about 4-5 feet long black scarf, or a black rectangular piece of cloth sewn together, the upper end of the fold, the top of the round hole, worn on the head. Usually, generally barefoot, only on New Year's holidays, festive days, visit friends and relatives, only to wear soil cloth shoes or Longfeng shoes.
After the end of the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, women in this period changed to wear a wide tunic and pants, with a half apron tied at the front of the waist and ankles. The apron was tied at the back with two bands of printed cloth and fluttered about two feet at each end. The Zhuang men changed to wearing a lapeled Tang suit and wide pants. Their feet wear earthen cloth shoes. Men who read books wear Zhongshan suits and Western-style haircuts. Elderly people wear black cloth scarves on their heads.
After 1949, townspeople in Zhuang areas, government workers, school students, etc., their clothing followed the national changes, generally wearing Zhongshan suit, cadre clothing, the same as the local Han Chinese people. With the development of the economy, one can even see Zhuang compatriots in remote mountainous areas in suits and dresses, not to mention flowery skirts and clothes. The traditional Zhuang clothing is also quietly changing.
5, the Bai people dress
Ancient times, I think the ancestors of the Bai people lived in groups. They hunted and fished for a living. Leaves to avoid the cold, cover up. By archaeological discovery three thousand years ago, Bai Yi ancestors have mastered the textile technology. Jianchuan Haimen, Dali dig color deer goose mountain, Dali Cangshan, Binchuan Baiyang village and other Neolithic sites, had been unearthed respectively stone spinning wheel, bone or horn needle tool, proving that textiles began to come out.
The Bai ancestors also began to have simple clothing, of course, clothing due to social and historical conditions, the main function of the beginning is undoubtedly to keep warm, to avoid the cold. By the Nanzhao period, the silk textile industry in the Dali area has appeared in large quantities. "Work textile", containing the texture of the silk fabrics of the flower greatly increased.
In 1974 the cloud province, Dali state units to Dali state eryuan county three camp flame mountain tower for investigation, in the tower was found in the Dali state period of silk fabrics, and preservation of good condition, identified as a white silk, silk, three, which for the study of silk weaving process is indeed a rare physical information.
Nanzhao period, all the expensive clothes, are to use fine silk woven silk, brocade, silk sewing. The dresses of the king of Nanzhao and Qingping Palace were all embroidered with brocade and adorned with tiger skin, which was exceptionally splendid. The costumes of the kings and officials depicted are described in detail in the "Scroll of the Second Year of Nanzhao Zhongxing" of the Tang Dynasty. In the "Nanzhao Dehua Stele", it is written in the shadow of the stele that "two-color damask robes" were used as the reward for the meritorious officials.
"Interpretation of the name - Cai silk": "damask, Ling also, the pattern of the look of the ice like the ice, the reason also." Light and thin, spun with fine silk. In order to make the dress more beautiful, people in addition to making embroidery patterns on the clothes, to achieve the purpose of beautifying the dress. In 800 A.D., Nanzhao to the court of the Tang Dynasty to present a large-scale song and dance "Nanzhao Fenghuang Shengle", but also other ways to express, the actors wear Nanzhao national costume, dress, shoes and hats colorfully painted birds and animals, grasses and trees flower pattern.
"Eight-color" art from low to high, from simple to complex evolution. So that the Nanzhao period of Bai weaving, dyeing and embroidery, arts and crafts in the high level of modeling design, in the south of China is rare. It will weave, dyeing, painting, embroidery into one, is a significant symbol of the Tang Dynasty Bai area textile industry and clothing art vigorously forward development, the study of the Bai clothing art at that time, provides strong evidence.
Nanzhao Dali State period, the Bai upper clothing system, the basic form of clothing, style is relatively fixed, the corresponding quality of people's clothing has also improved, the emergence of embroidered clothing, silk fabrics, although not the official expensive, but still do not lose the quality of the rough shape of the United States, in general, the dress in this period has a distinctive feature: focus on the color tone and decorative color dyeing and embroidery is more prevalent.
The type of dress reflects people's aesthetics, social customs, cultural interests and the level of development of productive forces. Constitutes the "clothing culture" of the Bai people. This culture has been a great influence on the evolution of Bai clothing in the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties.
With the passage of time, historical changes and social changes, the Bai people's costumes have changed accordingly. But the formation of Bai clothing is always subject to a particular custom, custom and way of thinking cut, orchestrated. Therefore, the Nanzhao Dali culture in the modern Bai clothing legacy system still exists, leasing Bai clothing is self-contained, distinctive, and always maintain a unique tradition different from that of other ethnic groups.
Expanded Information:
One, Hanfu
The Han people are the main ethnic group in China, and the ancient traditional national costume of the Han people is Hanfu. Legend has it that it was invented by the Yellow Emperor, and from the Western Zhou Dynasty onwards, the Han Chinese dress already had a basic nature, and by the Han Dynasty, it had been comprehensively perfected and popularized. This period until the end of the Ming Dynasty and the early Qing Dynasty, Han Chinese people with Han clothing to the Han Dynasty has a history of several thousand years. Hanfu is one of the world's long history of national costume.
Second, the introduction of Hanfu
Ancient Hanfu, also known as Han clothes, Chinese clothes. Both cross-collar right obeisance and straight collar round neck, the sleeves are divided into wide sleeves, small sleeves, hu hanging sleeves and so on. Hanfu influenced the whole Han cultural circle through the Chinese law system, and some nationalities in Asian countries such as Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Mongolia, Bhutan and so on have or borrowed the characteristics of Hanfu.
In the early years of the Qing Dynasty, the Manchu rulers implemented the policy of "shaving the hair and changing the clothes", forbidding the people to wear Chinese clothes and grow long hair. From then on, the ancient Chinese dress gradually disappeared from people's lives.
Because of the Qing Dynasty's policy of "ten from ten not from", the ancient Chinese dress has not completely disappeared, and people can still see her shadow. For example, the monks of Taoism and Buddhism have preserved their costumes. The influence of the ancient Chinese dress is very far-reaching, many ethnic minorities in China and some of the Asian countries, such as Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Mongolia, Bhutan, etc. have borrowed and inherited the characteristics of the ancient period of Chinese dress.
The Hanbok has a long history and many styles, and all dynasties have their own characteristics, but the main features remain the same. There are dresses and regular clothes.
The coronation dress is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; the robe (deep coat) is the regular dress for officials and scholars, and the 襦襦裙 is the favorite dress of women. Ordinary working people usually wore short clothes on top and long pants underneath. Accessories Headdress is one of the important parts of Han Chinese dress. In ancient times, Han men and women put their hair into a bun and coiled it on their heads after they came of age, fixing it with a bun and adding a crown to show that they had come of age.
Three, the characteristics of Han Chinese dress
The main features of Han Chinese dress are cross-necked, right obeisance, girdle, tied with a rope and belt, and also used with hooks and so on, which gives people the impression of being free and easy. All these features are obviously different from other national costumes. Hanbok Hanbok is divided into dress and regular clothes.
From the point of view of the form, there are mainly the system of "上衣下裳"(裳 in ancient times refers to the lower skirt), "深衣"(the upper and lower garment are sewn together), "襦裙"(襦, i.e., short coat) and other types. short jacket) and other types.
Men often wear crowns, scarves, and hats of various shapes. Women's hair buns can also be combed into a variety of styles, and in the bun with beads and flowers, step rock and other ornaments. Sideburns on both sides of the sideburns decorated with bo, there are also wearing a cap, cover the head. Han Chinese people decorate there is an important feature is like decorative jade jade.
Four, the Han people of various periods of dress:
1, the ancient period
The traditional Chinese ancient books of the general view that the Chinese clothing for about five thousand years ago, the Huangdi emperor or the Huangdi period. For example, the Han Dynasty's Shiben records that the Yellow Emperor's courtiers "made their clothes" and "Hu Cao made their coronation garments". According to the Yi Yi (The Book of Changes), "The Yellow Emperor, Yao and Shun put on clothes and the world was ruled". In the book of History of the Five Emperors, it is said that Rayon, the wife of the Yellow Emperor, raised silkworms and made silk to make clothes.
Archaeological discoveries have confirmed that bone needles and spinning wheels have been found in the Peiligang cultural site and the Baijia Village site in Lintong, Shaanxi, 7,000 to 8,000 years ago, indicating that people could spin cloth to make clothes at that time. To about five thousand years ago, Yangshao culture period, not only found a large number of spinning wheel, but also found a large number of cloth marks on the pottery.
Ramie and silk cocoons were also found in the same period. This indicates that the primitive agriculture and textile industry had already been created at this time, with ramie woven into linen and silk spinning to feed silkworms to make clothes, people's clothing and costumes are becoming more and more complete. However, no clothing objects from this period have been found in archaeological excavations so far.
2, Xia, Shang and Western Zhou period
This period of clothing inherited the characteristics of the ancient period, and there are sufficient physical evidence of the basic features of the Han Chinese dress has been determined at this time: cross-necked, right overlapping, tied for the most basic typical features, the top and bottom of the garment is the most basic style. In the oracle bone inscriptions, gold inscriptions in a variety of glyphs, a very common glyph of the word "clothes" that is the image of the cross-collar right-overlapping shirt.
The jade figure unearthed at the Yin ruins in Anyang, Henan Province, also wore clothing with such characteristics, and the jade figure is the earliest and most complete costume shape unearthed in China. The lower part of the garment, which matches the upper garment with a cross-necked, right-overlooking, belted upper garment, is the "shang" (裳). The top and bottom of the garment is the most basic style of Chinese dress, and the Chinese language still uses the word "衣裳" as a generic term for clothing.
3. The Qin and Han Dynasties
The Qin and Han costumes basically followed those of the Warring States period, and were still dominated by deep clothes, which were roughly divided into two kinds: the curved train and the straight train, and both men and women could wear them. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, the train was the most common type of women's clothing, which was tight and narrow, long enough to traverse the ground, with the hemline generally flared, and the line did not reveal the feet. If you wear several pieces of clothing, each layer of the collar must be exposed to the outside, the most up to three or more layers, known as the "triple clothes".
Because of the improvement of underwear in the Han Dynasty, the curved train around the lapel of the deep coat has been redundant, so to the Eastern Han Dynasty, straight train gradually popularized.
Because of the general popularity of the deep coat, women wearing 襦裙 decreased, but not disappeared, and there are many depictions of it in Han Lefu poems. In this period, the style of 襦襦襦, usually the upper jacket is very short, only to the waist, and the skirt is very long, hanging down to the ground. 1957 in Gansu Wuwei Muozui Zi Han Tomb found 襦襦襦襦気.
During the Han Dynasty, China's culture, economy, politics and military were unprecedentedly prosperous and powerful, and the Han race thus became another name for the Chinese nation. The dress and etiquette system of this period was also greatly improved, and a Chinese idiom "Han Officials' Might and Grace" appeared to praise the dress system of the Han Dynasty. The name "hanfu" is also indirectly derived from this.
4, Wei, Jin, North and South Dynasties period
Wei, Jin, North and South Dynasties period, the clothing legacy of the Han Dynasty, but because of the prevailing wind Han style has become elegant and elegant. Wei Jin celebrities more light wearing a wide coat, or coat inside a similar to today's camisole peculiar underwear, and do not wear clothing, this style of clothing is only seen in this era, style see the "Northern Qi school book map".
Perhaps influenced by the nomads in the north, men in the Central Plains in this era also began to popularize the blouse and pants. Blouses and pants were called each other. Due to the hot and humid climate in the south, high-toothed wooden clogs became popular. The 袿yi (袿衣) (杂裾) was a gown in the women's costume of the Wei and Jin dynasties.
Wei-Jin period of clothing from the Eastern Han, a by the Eastern Han pursuit of prosperity, luxury style, the clothes that is the clothes on both sides of the sharp corner of the style, the Wei and Jin, people will be the sharp corners of the home, next to the slippers to be decorated with pendant belt. Clothing looks a flowing, this is the rhetoric of the time "Hua 袿 fly long hair".
5, Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties period
Sui-Tang Hanfu began to high-end innovation and development, but not away from the basic features of Hanfu. The main style of women's clothing in the Sui and Tang dynasties is still 襦襦裙, shirt, cape unity. Very popular among women 襦襦襦, that is, the lower skirt lifted to the chest on the skirt, with a cape.
Among the noblewomen, also wear hairpin ceremonial clothes. Hanfu craft decorations commonly used floral patterns, its composition lively and free, sparse and dense, full and rounded, bold colors. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tend to express the free, plump, fat artistic style
Tang Dynasty men's clothing, to turban robe shirt for the Shang, turban, also known as the burden of head, is in the Han and Wei scarf on the basis of the formation of a first dress. Officials, in addition to wearing a round neck and narrow sleeves robes and shirts, in some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies still wear dress.
The style of dress, more inherited from the previous dynasty, wearing a conical cap or cage crown, wearing a lapel large-sleeved shirt, under the dress, jade pendant group ribbons and so on. Five Dynasties period dress basic feast inherited the Tang Dynasty dress, not much change.
6, Song Dynasty period
Because of the political climate in the early years of the Song Dynasty, Han Chinese clothing is no longer gaudy and luxurious, but simple and plain, Song Dynasty Han Chinese men's clothing inherited a large lapel right overlocking collar and round neck of the two traditional clothing styles.
Song Han women's clothing in the previous generation of the basic system based on, compared to men's clothing to be rich in change. In the Song Dynasty, the pasties were long-sleeved and long-bodied, with open crotch under the armpits, i.e., the front and back plackets of the clothes were not sewn together, but were decorated with bands under the armpits and at the back. In the middle and late Song Dynasty, the country was rich, and people's clothes began to be luxurious, and most people wore silk.
7, the Yuan Dynasty period
The Yuan Dynasty was established by the Mongols, but the Mongols did not implement a similar Manchu policy of shaving hair and clothing, so the civil dress is still Chinese. The daily clothes of the Yuan court officials and the common people were mostly narrow-sleeved robes, and Mongolian women also wore long robes. Mongolian women also wore long robes, while Chinese women still wore Chinese dresses, of which the 襦裙 was more popular. It is only in style that Mongolian and Chinese clothing were more or less influenced by each other.
8, Ming Dynasty period
Ming Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang overthrew the Yuan Dynasty, ordered the world "clothing system as old as the Tang and Song Dynasty", so the Ming Dynasty dress restored the tradition of Chinese dress. Men's clothing basically inherited the big lapel right overlapping collar and round neck of the two traditional dress style. But also absorbed some of the characteristics of the Yuan Dynasty dress, the development of trailing sprinkle and other characteristics of the dress. Ming Dynasty women's clothing is still mainly 襦裙.
It should be noted that the Ming system of women's jacket, women's shirt is more characteristic and popular, the outer garment is mostly closed cuffs pipa sleeves, cuffs can have edge collar plus protective collar, the lower skirt is more with the horse-face pleated skirt and ordinary pleated skirt. In addition to the shirt, jacket and skirt has been handed down, but also popular cape, pasted together, than the armor and other fresh styles, clothing variations and styles of workmanship reached a peak.
Men's clothing in the Ming Dynasty, adults wore more wide straight, wearing a four-way Pingding scarf on the head, the general civilian wearing short clothes, wrapped in a turban. This time appeared a six-petal, eight-petal pieces of cloth sewn together in a small cap, looks very much like dissected into half of the watermelon.
It was originally worn by servants, but because it was easy to wear, it became generally popular. This was the predecessor of the "melon skin beanie" in the Qing Dynasty. The use of metal buckles and buttons also became popular in the Ming Dynasty, but the lacing remained.
9, Qing Dynasty period
In 1644, the Manchu Qing Dynasty entered the country and implemented a policy of shaving hair and changing clothes, prohibiting the wearing of Han Chinese clothing, so that the traditional Han Chinese dress system was forced to be suspended.
Han women in the Kangxi, Yongzheng period also retained the Ming Dynasty Han style (ten from ten from: men from women from), the fashionable small-sleeved clothes and long skirts; after the Qianlong period, the clothes are gradually fat and short, cuffs wide, and then add the cloud shoulder, the pattern of renovation can not be bottomed; to the late Qing Dynasty, urban women have been removed from the skirt with pants, lace on the clothes, rolling teeth, a coat of the expensive most of the money spent on this.
In order to protect the cultural relics of clothing, Han people from all walks of life in all kinds of ways to resist the policy of the Qing government, people around the repeated uprisings against the policy of shaving and changing clothes, but they were suppressed by the Qing government, which led to the tragedy of Yangzhou ten days.
Peasant uprisings during the Qing Dynasty, such as the White Lotus Society, the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, and the Twisting Army, all wore Han-style clothes in large numbers. Some Taiping army generals refused to mix in Manchu elements of clothing, and some preferred to fight in straight theater costumes.
10. Republic of China
In 1910 (the second year of the Xuantong era), the Council of Senior Ministers resolved to cut the braid and make it easier to wear clothes, and people of all races in all parts of China began to cut the braid. Some people also advocated the restoration of Chinese, Hui, Miao and other ethnic costumes and cultures that had been banned by the Qing government.
Since the Republic of China advocated learning from the West, the Chinese officially changed to Western-style clothing, and women's clothing also had the original wide robes added to the Western silhouette into the cheongsam, and most of the Han Chinese gradually thought that the fusion of Western silhouettes cheongsam and maillot jacquard were the traditional Manchu garments.
11, modern
Today, part of the people's livelihood has been secured, and began to think about the repair and revival of traditional Chinese culture. More and more young people and aspirants are joining in the revival of Chinese culture, but there are still a lot of controversies and various obstacles in the society.
Baidu Encyclopedia - Mongolian Costume
Baidu Encyclopedia - Manchu Costume
Baidu Encyclopedia - Tibetan Costume
Baidu Encyclopedia - Zhuang Clothing
Baidu Encyclopedia - Bai Clothing
Baidu Encyclopedia - Ethnic Dress
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