Clothing production process: fabric selection >> fabric inspection > > The production process confirms the texture, color and feel of the fabric >> Whether the matching is consistent with the sample data >> Measuring size > > Cutting >> Cutting inspection > > Sewing >> First needle inspection >> All samples >> Ironing >> Re-checking all products >> Packaging >> Re-checking needles.
The simple understanding is: choose the fabric, confirm whether it is consistent with the desired pattern information, measure, cut, check the data and effect, sew, iron, package, and check whether the product has needles when shipping.
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Yarn: common yarn, filament and new yarn.
Fabric: woven fabric, knitted fabric, knitted fabric, non-woven fabric and other special fabrics.
Clothing material information (fabrics, accessories):
Auxiliary materials include linings, linings, fillers, thread materials, fastening materials, trademarks and signs, and other materials.
Lining is a material attached between fabric and lining.
Lining, also called lining or lining.
Knitted fabric: A fabric formed by bending yarns into loops and interlocking loops. The coil is the smallest basic unit. Perforated coils have good air permeability and good elasticity in all directions. It has the characteristics of curling, shedding and easy pilling.
Woven fabric: A fabric made of mutually perpendicular yarns. The intersection of latitude and longitude becomes the organization point, which is the smallest basic unit. Generally, it is relatively tight and the structure is relatively stable.
Knitted fabric:
Vertical density, horizontal density, coil length, square meter weight
Ductility, elasticity, breaking strength, abrasion resistance, curling, detachment, shrinkage and coverage.
Woven fabric:
Length, width, thickness, warp and weft density, tightness, square meter weight.
Tensile property, elasticity, pilling, drape, wear resistance.
Cotton: comfortable and natural
Hemp: green and healthy, simple and natural, hygroscopic and breathable, with poor elasticity, easy to wrinkle, stiff and rough?
Wool: soft, strong, durable, elastic, non-deformable and hygroscopic.
Silk: gorgeous, rich, light, soft and elegant.
Polyester: cool, strong, elastic, wrinkle-resistant and non-ironing (commonly used)
Nylon: Slippery, wear-resistant, waxy and less elastic than polyester (raincoat, sports fabric).
Acrylic fiber: fluffy, flexible and warm. Wool-like fabric is lighter and warmer than wool fabric, and pilling is serious. (sweater fabric)
Fur: windproof and warm, naturally fluffy.
Touch: comfortable or rough, warm or cold, smooth or rough, whether the friction inside the wrist is itchy or rough.
Kneading: Bend and knead to feel fluffy and firm, and loosen to see how to resist bending and wrinkle. Whether the sound of friction is pleasing to the ear. Rub quickly to see if it is easy to generate static electricity.
Grab it: in the palm of your hand, see if it bounces off, how quickly the crease recovers, and shake it to see the recovery.
Shake it: Shake it gently to see if the styling pen is quite round or supple and smooth, and whether it has a drooping feeling.
Pull: See if it is elastic and resilient, and observe whether the structure is stable.
Fabric dyeing, yarn dyeing and loose fiber dyeing.
The four parts of the whole dyeing:
Pretreatment: bleaching/desizing/mercerizing/setting/singeing/scouring/scouring to improve dyeing performance.
Dyeing: dyeing, or producing insoluble colored substances on fabrics, mainly dip dyeing or pad dyeing.
Printing: getting patterns
Finishing: a chemical or physical method to improve the appearance and feel of fabrics.
Batik: wax coating >> drawing >> dyeing >> dewaxing >> rinsing, mainly blue and white, is a dye-proof printing process. Where there is wax, the cloth is dyed and colored.
Tie-dyeing: It belongs to the dye-proof printing process. The fabric is folded and tied tightly, then dipped into the color paste for dyeing, and the tied part is not soaked. Banlangen or other natural plants are generally used, and batik can also be used.
Spill dyeing: by splash dyeing or brush dyeing, the pattern is more abstract and will have a drop-like effect.
Hanging dyeing: it belongs to anti-dyeing printing process. It is hung on a reciprocating frame, and the dye vat is filled with dye solutions with different heights and concentrations in turn, forming a gradual effect.
Others: pad dyeing, type dyeing, hand painting, spraying, hand screen printing …
Natural color cloth: also known as natural color cloth, it is not printed and dyed.
Bleached cloth: bleached, the color is whiter.
Dyed cloth: processed in piece dyeing.
Calico: The pattern has been generated.
Yarn-dyed fabric: Woven with yarns of different colors (such as denim).
Yarn-dyed fabric: fabric dyed with loose fibers.
Jacquard: The requirements for yarns are high, and the concave-convex patterns formed by interweaving the warp and weft yarns have a three-dimensional effect (China Silk).
Embroidery: Embroidery
Burnout: Using the different chemical properties of acid fastness of two kinds of fibers, the burnt-out material is treated and dissolved in acid solution to form clear, light and transparent lines. (Curtains, bedspreads ...)
Embossing: special treatment to form concave and convex patterns. (Embossed printed cotton cloth, embossed printed cotton cloth ...)
Cut flowers: After jacquard weaving, cut off the surplus yarn floating on the fabric, generally reducing the warp, which is called cut flowers, forming a sense of pattern layering. (Cowboy hole fluff ...)
Others: quilting, splicing, stacking, hollowing out, crocheting, destruction, three-dimensional …
Original weave: three basic weaves, including plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.
Plain weave: interweaved every other weaving point, the warp and weft interweave the most times, which is not easy to be sanded and hooked, and the gloss is poor. (Plain cloth, poplin, seersucker, Balinese yarn, canvas, summer cloth, Valentine, Paris, flannel, crepe de chine, georgette, Hangzhou spinning, foreign spinning and electrospinning)
Twill weave: Obvious left diagonal or right diagonal, usually preceded by right diagonal, with less interlacing times than plain weave. The yarn arrangement per unit length is firmer, the thickness and density are increased, the interweaving points are less, the luster is good, the hand feel is soft and elastic, and the wrinkle resistance is improved. Denim, twill, khaki, gabardine, serge, twill, beautiful silk)
Satin weave: Among the three main weaves, it has the least interweaving times, higher compactness, thicker texture, softness, good drape, smoothness and luster. (horizontal satin, straight satin, satin, brocade, brocade)
Change organization: based on the three principles of organization, it is derived by changing the period, floating length, organization point position and other factors.
Combined weave and complex weave: plaid weave, crepe weave weave, honeycomb weave, through-hole weave, double-layer weave, napped weave, leno weave and small jacquard weave.
Tissue analysis method: observe directly with a magnifying glass, or observe one by one by removing the edge of 1cm.
According to the packaging label, the package is packed by pieces, and the outward side is the reverse side. Fold it up, and the inside is the front.
Look at the edge of the cloth, the front is flat and smooth, and the back edge is curly.
If the whole picture is selvage, the yarn direction parallel to selvage is warp direction.
Warp elasticity is small, weft elasticity is large, and diagonal elasticity is the largest.
The warp yarn is thinner and the weft yarn is thicker.
The length of the fabric is generally measured by the length of the horse, in meters. (international code yd is the unit, 1yd=0.9 144m).
The distance between the outermost weft yarns at both ends in the length direction.
Fabric weight: cut 1㎡ (or cut 10cm* 10cm) to get the square meter weight of fabric (g/㎡).
Description of fabric specification: width B(m)* warp count TtT(tex)* weft count TtW(tex)* warp density PT (root/10cm)* weft density PW (root/10cm).
Buy horses that are generally more than 30m, smaller than 17.5m, and smaller than1-4.9 m. ..
Sample:
Main contents of the purchase order:
Common appearance quality problems:
Common internal quality problems:
Frequently asked questions about fabrics:
Lining materials: cotton lining, hemp lining, wool lining, chemical lining and paper lining. (Hot-melt bonding and non-hot-melt bonding)
Cotton lining: flat, rough, stiff and elastic, belonging to low-grade lining.
Mariko: The lining of a suit in Zhongshan suit is crisp, smooth and moderately soft. However, the shrinkage rate is about 6%, so pre-shrinkage is needed.
Wool lining: black carbon lining and ponytail lining, high-grade clothing lining, excellent texture, good elasticity, high stiffness and good shaping effect.
Chemical lining: including resin lining, adhesive lining and film lining.
Resin lining: good elasticity, high stiffness, small shrinkage, and relatively rigid after bonding clothes. Mainly used for processing rigid, special-shaped and special-shaped parts.
Woven hot melt adhesive lining: medium and high-grade clothing with good wrinkle resistance.
Knitted hot melt adhesive lining: elastic, used for knitting or elastic clothing.
Non-woven hot melt adhesive lining: low price and non-washable, suitable for middle and low-grade clothing.
Film lining: good elasticity, high stiffness and good water resistance, used for hard collar corners.
Collar bottom: the material used in the collar bottom of high-grade suits has good rigidity and elasticity, which can make the collar of suits flat, thin, strong, elastic and non-deformed.
Waist lining: stiff, non-slip, shape-keeping, increasing friction.
Lining: insert linings are used in armholes, collar sockets and open pockets to prevent deformation in the process of making deformable parts, such as seams, ruffles, armholes, lapels and seams.
Specification and model of adhesive liner: raw material mark +3-position interlining type/hot melt adhesive type/coating process +3-position base fabric square meter mass g/m2, which consists of three parts, such as C 100- 150.
Natural fiber lining: cotton lining and silk lining.
Cotton lining: good moisture absorption and permeability, not easy to generate static electricity, comfortable. Not smooth, easy to wrinkle, inconvenient to put on and take off. Baby low-grade jacket
Silk fabric: soft, smooth, good moisture absorption and permeability, non-irritating to skin, not easy to generate static electricity, easy to wrinkle, not resistant to machine washing, low strength and high price. Used for high-end clothing.
Recycled cellulose fiber lining: Meisi Fuchun spinning.
Viscose fiber lining: soft, shiny, hygroscopic, breathable, easy to deform and low strength. Short fibers are used in middle and low grades, and filaments are used in middle and high grades. High shrinkage, not resistant to frequent washing.
Acetate fiber lining: slightly better than viscose fiber, with the same purpose. Wear resistance is also poor.
Copper ammonia fiber lining: similar to viscose fiber, silky.
Synthetic fiber lining: polyester and nylon. There are polyester taffeta silk and nylon spinning.
Polyester lining: easy to wash and dry, firm and crisp, not easy to wrinkle, high strength, poor air permeability, anti-static, generally used for windbreakers.
Nylon lining: high strength, large elongation, good elastic recovery effect, better wear resistance and permeability than polyester, but poor shape retention, unsmooth and poor heat resistance.
Warp and feather yarn are one of the traditional lining materials for suits, coats and jackets.
Flocculent filler: unprocessed natural fiber or chemical fiber, such as cotton wool, silk wool, down, camel hair, etc. It needs to be fixed loosely and is not suitable for machine washing.
Material filler: foam, space cotton, soft, uniform and fixed sheet, which can be washed by machine.
Cotton wool: comfortable, good warmth retention, poor elasticity, not easy to dry after washing, easy to deform, low-grade clothes.
Silk floss: advanced cold-proof filler, light, soft, smooth, warm, elastic and breathable.
Animal hair: high-grade warm filling, but easy to feel felted and moth-eaten.
Chemical fiber filler: easy to wash, durable, good storage, low price, rich varieties, mostly poor moisture permeability and air permeability. Good thermal insulation performance, widely used: acrylic cotton, hollow cotton, pearl cotton.
Acrylic cotton: light and warm.
Pearl cotton: better breathability
Downward: limited resources and high prices.
Glue-sprayed cotton: Glue-sprayed cotton, a kind of nonwoven fabric.
Needle punched cotton: a washable nonwoven fabric.
Hot-melt cotton: Silk-like cotton, soft and fluffy, with good mechanical strength and washability, has become a substitute for glue-sprayed cotton.
Down cotton: down to the touch.
Space cotton: it can be washed directly without fixing thread, and it is an ideal product for cold resistance in winter. It is "light, soft and beautiful".
Natural fur: filler of high-grade cold-proof clothing
Foam plastic: polyurethane, hard and elastic, cheap, airtight, poor comfort, poor hygiene, easy to age and fragile, only used for life jackets.
Common in shoulder pads and chest pads.
Acupuncture shoulder pads: washable, hot-pressed, durable, used for high-end suits and professional clothes.
Setting shoulder pads: elastic, easy to shape, washable and diverse in shape, used in various fashions.
Sponge shoulder pads: good elasticity, convenient manufacture and low price.
Shoulder pad specifications: length, width, thickness and height
Zipper: It consists of meshing teeth, zipper head and cloth belt.
Zipper specification: the width of the teeth on both sides after meshing is the specification, and the unit is millimeter.
Technical parameters: zipper specification, thickness of buckle teeth, width of single sideband.
The larger the zipper model, the thicker the teeth and the greater the fastening force.
Buttons: buttons with eyes, buttons with feet and snaps (snaps).
The outside diameter of the button was measured by Lenny International. (1 Lenny = 0.635mm)
Thin, compact and soft underwear
The coat is big, thick and hard.
Materials: textiles, paper, weaving, leather and metal.
Textile trademark: widely used, nylon coated cloth, polyester coated cloth, pure cotton coated cloth, polyester-cotton blended coated cloth.
Paper: labels
Woven label: Woven label, usually used as the main trademark.
Leather: Leather tag, generally used for denim clothing.
Metal: Also commonly used in denim clothing.
Quality mark: indicates the content of materials.
Instructions for use: washing, ironing, drying and storage.
Specification mark: type
Mark of origin: usually at the bottom of the mark.
Certificate marking: After the garment inspection, the inspector will stamp the certificate and print it on the tag.
Barcode marking: Information can be identified on labels or stickers by static code analysis equipment.
Environmental protection sign: no harmful substances.
Three-layer corrugated paper: light product
Five-layer corrugated paper: fragile products
Seven layers of ripples: heavy objects
The higher the yarn count, the thinner the yarn, the more complicated the process, the more expensive the price and the higher the grade.
Most collar linings are made of flax or resin flax.
Key words of shirt fabric selection: muslin, Oxford, validine, Paris, linen and silk.
Fine cloth: 19- 10tex(29-59 inches)
Market cloth: medium plain cloth, plain cloth,19-28 tex (21-31inch), between coarse cloth and fine cloth, with moderate thickness and durability.
Coarse cloth: coarse plain cloth, more than 32tex (less than 18 inch), rough and firm, thick and firm.
Poplin: Smooth, light, smooth, silky, with obvious diamond and granular surface. It is the main fabric for men and women's shirts.
Striped satin: high-grade fabric, smooth and lubricated, highly reflective, non-wear-resistant, easy to fluff, easy to snag, not violent washing.
Varidin: A lightweight wool fabric used for summer clothing. Cowboy face is even, soft, elastic and breathable.
Paris: The same light woolen fabric as Valentine, with criss-crossing surface.
Oxford cloth: generally indigo, breathable, comfortable to wear, white weft in color.
Youth spinning: the color is white weft, indigo blue, rough and wild, simple and unpretentious, similar to cowboy, light and flexible, crisp and elastic.
Linen fine cloth: fine and medium hemp, fast moisture absorption, not easy to vacuum, easy to wash and iron, cool and smooth.
? Ramie fine cloth: poor elasticity, easy wrinkling and poor wear resistance.
Linen blended fabric: high strength, cool and breathable, crisp and durable.
Balinese yarn: low density, thin and translucent, also known as glass yarn, has good air permeability and can be used as women's shirts.
Hemp yarn: It's not hemp, and it's not doped with hemp fiber. It is a light cotton fabric, which is similar to flax in appearance, low in density, breathable, light and smooth, and the weft shrinkage is greater than the warp shrinkage.
Velvet: cotton fabric with fluffy surface, beautiful appearance, soft and comfortable feel and strong hygroscopicity.
Seersucker: plain cloth made of pure cotton or polyester cotton, medium or fine, with unique appearance, strong three-dimensional sense, light texture, good air permeability, cool, no ironing after washing, the bigger it is, the more it crosses, and don't let it be too loose. It is suitable for ladies and children's summer clothes.
Bark crepe: The weft yarn shrinks into the crepe effect of uneven bark, with strong three-dimensional effect, moisture absorption and breathability, hemp-like effect, and summer clothes.
Corrugated cloth: Irregular folds, more casual.
Denim: yarn-dyed denim, white weft, indigo blue.
Ragged cloth: …
Cotton silk: rough and elastic to the touch, rough and uneven in appearance, dull, rough and natural, covered with spots and bumps.
Luo fabric: the surface has regular yarn holes, uniform rib, crisp and smooth, soft and comfortable, breathable, washable and durable, and it is a good material in summer. (Hang Luofu)
Satin fabric: smooth and bright, compact in texture, soft and elastic. The disadvantage is that it is not wear-resistant and washable.
Crepe fabric: light, sparse, soft luster, elastic, wrinkle-resistant, breathable and comfortable. The shrinkage rate is large.
Textile fabrics: electrospinning, nylon spinning, polyester spinning, Fuchun spinning, striped spinning and Hua Fu spinning. Good hygroscopicity, thick, good dyeability, smooth and comfortable, poor wear resistance, easy to fluff, making pajamas and clothing.
Straight skirt: wool fabric in winter, cotton and linen fabric in spring and summer. Medium plain cloth, cotton direct tribute, gabardine, ramie fabric, linen fabric, cotton and linen blended fabric.
Jacket skirt: denim, plain cloth, canvas. High modeling requirements: breeches and chocolate color.
Breeches: tweed fabric, sharp twill, durable and wear-resistant, suitable for riding pants, obviously uneven texture, heavy body and bones, 340-400g/㎡, rough and crazy, mainly dark.
Joe: The dense and pointed twill wool fabric, with two parallel faces, is thinner and flatter than breeches. It looks like the rib of knitted fabric, which is elastic and plain in color, making the jacket group more comfortable.
Cheongsam skirt: summer cotton printed cloth, printed crepe de Chine, fragrant crepe, twill silk and georgette. Spring and autumn silk, striped satin, woven cotton satin, antique satin, brocade, soft satin.
Overskirt uses a waistline.
Clothing: collar lining, cuff lining and tie lining.
Cheongsam: collar lining, drawstring lining and hem lining.
Selection of lining materials: color, weight, thickness, drape and shrinkage.
Most skirts are lined with adhesive, and thick fabrics are used in autumn and winter. In spring and summer, it is light and thin, and it is lined with single-sided glue. Slippery silk fabrics can be lined with uniform size.
Thin skirts can be sewn into a dead lining or made into a lined petticoat.
Lining: high-grade silk, American silk, middle-grade polyester, acetate fiber and interwoven lining, low-grade synthetic fiber lining.
Clothing decoration: embroidery, embroidery, beading, lamination, pleating, lace, decorative belt …
Chest pads, hip pads and skirts for dresses and wedding dresses.
Artificial fur: chemical fiber is used as raw material, and it is machined to imitate animal fur.
Knitted artificial fur, woven artificial fur, artificial rolled fur.
Pigskin: wear-resistant, durable, breathable and permeable, uneven, large pores, easy to absorb water and deform, not as good as cowhide and sheepskin.
Cowhide: cowhide and buffalo hide. Buffalo fur is less porous than cowhide, uneven and rough, and less delicate than cowhide and sheepskin. But the wrinkle resistance is high, and industrial leather is mostly used.
Cowhide: Old cows and calves are not suitable for clothing in old age. Calfskin is the best leather, and it is also an ideal material for making high-grade leather and leather shoes.
Sheepskin: There are two kinds: goat and sheep. Goats are breathable and shiny, not as soft and delicate as sheep. Sheepskin has good elasticity, high ductility and low skin strength. Sheepskin is suitable for clothing, gloves, shoes and hats, backpacks, etc.
Suede leather: a kind of deer, precious leather with many spots, so it is made into suede leather, which is breathable and absorbent.
Horse skin: The skin on the front, but not the bottom, of a horse used for making clothes.
Artificial leather: the fabric is coated with PVC and PVC. This year, there are PU polyurethane synthetic leather, the base layer is non-woven fabric, and the surface layer is porous material, imitating the structure of natural leather.
Artificial leather: PVC, in which the foam is artificial, soft and elastic, close to real leather.
Synthetic leather: PU, which is closer to natural leather than artificial leather, has higher strength and wear resistance than artificial leather, and feels very close to goatskin.
Artificial suede: suede, soft, breathable and durable.
Leather clothing production: 14 stitches, 50tex thread, 3-4 stitches /cm linear density, 2-3 stitches /cm decorative thread, 90- 100 degree dry ironing on the back of leather.
Coat, T-shirt, polo, sports and leisure, fashion
Warp knitting: polyester, nylon, vinylon, polypropylene, etc. It is stable and stiff in the longitudinal direction, will not curl, has good air permeability and its transverse performance is not as good as that of weft knitting.
Weft knitting: low elastic polyester yarn, profiled polyester yarn, nylon yarn, cotton yarn, wool yarn, good elasticity, good extensibility, softness, wrinkle resistance, easy to fall off and curl.
Underwear: elastic, elastic, soft, hygroscopic, breathable, antistatic and warm. Choose natural fiber or a small proportion of chemical fiber blended. Summer pure cotton jersey, flannel, silk jersey. Winter cotton wool cloth, rib cloth, lycra cotton knitted cloth. Wear-resistance, non-ironing and shape-keeping are all taken into account. Modern apocynum venetum, colored cotton bamboo pulp fiber, modal, lyocell, etc.
Sweaters and vests: hygroscopicity and elasticity. Generally, it is made of pure cotton yarn, silk and other natural fibers or blended yarns below 18.2tex.
T-shirt: cotton, hemp, wool, silk, chemical fiber and their blended fabrics.
Sweater cloth: the general term for fabrics formed by weft knitting plain needles. It is light and soft, and the wrapping is seriously loose.
Flannel: A knitted fabric with one or both sides covered with a thick layer of short and thin fluff. Sewing winter clothes and trousers
Towel cloth: one or both sides have annular yarn loops to absorb water and keep warm, towel cloth.
Velvet fabric: a kind of plush knitted fabric, which is cut by terry weave.
Rib fabric: transverse tensile elasticity and extensibility are large, and curl is small. Don't fall off in the knitting direction.
Cotton wool cloth: double rib knitted fabric, consisting of two layers of rib structure, with better stability than sweat cloth and rib cloth.
Collar accessories of flat knitting machine: T-shirt with special collar shape is knitted by flat knitting machine.