1. In 1921, the British mountaineering team (captain G. Hawadbari) climbed Mount Everest from Tibet, my country for the first time. They did not cross the top of the North Col. They claimed that the height they reached was 6,985 meters. , without success, they declared it a reconnaissance mountaineering expedition.
2. In 1922, the second British Mount Everest climbing team (captain Ji Bruce) still took the north slope route in Tibet, my country. They crossed the North Col, but when they reached 8,225 meters It failed due to the death of seven people.
3. In 1924, the third British Mount Everest climbing team (captain F. Norton) was still climbing from the north slope of Mount Everest in my country. When Norton and others reached the bottom of the "Second Step" on the north slope When near 8,572 meters, they were forced to go down the mountain due to lack of oxygen. Team members Mallory and Abin insisted on continuing to move forward and never returned.
4. In 1933, the British mountaineering team, consisting of 16 people (captain Kh. Lutoledji), still used the northern slope route in Tibet, but it also failed. The team member Wen. When Harris and Weigel reached an altitude of 8,570 meters, they discovered the ice ax belonging to Mallory, a member of the British Everest climbing team in 1924, confirming that Mallory and the other two died near this height.
5. In 1934, the British M. Wilson used a light plane to climb mountains alone. As a result, the plane was damaged near the Kongbu Glacier. He was slightly injured. Later, he hired some local Sherpa people to assist. Climbing, but after a storm, he froze to death on the Dongob Glacier.
6. In 1935, the British Mount Everest climbing team, consisting of seven people (captain E. Shipton), only detected the 7,000-meter-high north slope of Mount Everest in Tibet, my country, that is, the North Col. Return nearby.
7. In 1936, the British Mount Everest mountaineering team, consisting of ten people (captain He Lutoliji), reached the top of the North Col at an altitude of 7,007 meters and then returned [Note: North Col The top used to be 7,007 meters. In 1975, the Chinese mountaineering team calculated the exact height to be 7,050 meters after field measurements.
8. In 1938, the British Mount Everest climbing team, composed of seven people (captain G. Dillman), still climbed from the north slope of my country. After reaching an altitude of 8,290 meters, , declared failure.
9. In 1947, the first climb of Mount Everest after the Second World War was carried out by a Canadian, Le Dinman, who hired some local mountain residents as porters, and still climbed the northern slope in my country. , did not exceed the altitude of 6,400 meters above sea level, and finally failed and returned.
The above-mentioned nine attempts to climb Mount Everest were all conducted from the Tibet area in my country, and all failed.
After 1950, China’s Tibet region was liberated. Tibet, which is located in an important southwest border defense area, no longer allowed foreign mountaineering teams to carry out mountaineering activities at will. Since then, foreign mountaineering teams have climbed Mount Everest from the southern slopes of Nepal.
10. In 1950, a mountaineering team composed of Americans such as G. Houston and others made the first attempt to climb Mount Everest from the south slope of Nepal. They only reached an altitude of 6.6 meters above sea level on the Kongbu Glacier. Near the 100-meter ice explosion zone, we returned.
11. In 1950, the British mountaineering team consisted of five people (captain G. Dillman). They claimed in advance that they were a reconnaissance team climbing Mount Everest from the south slope. When they reached an altitude of 5,480 Meters near the Khumbu Glacier before returning.
12. In 1951, the British mountaineering team, captained by E. Shipton, consisted of seven people. They only climbed a section of the Khonbu Glacier, reaching an altitude of around 6,450 meters. And return.
13. In 1951, a Danish man named K. Berger Larsson illegally crossed the border into Tibet. He planned to climb Mount Everest from the north slope, but he failed before even crossing the 6,500-meter altitude.
14. In May 1952, a ten-member Swiss mountaineering team led by captain Le Dittmar climbed Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal. Team member Le Lambier and the porters they hired Nepali Tenxin failed due to bad weather after reaching an altitude of 8,540 meters, but they created a route from the south slope to the summit of Mount Everest.
15. In October 1952, the Swiss mountaineering team led by G. Chevalier climbed Mount Everest from the south slope for the first time in autumn, that is, after the rainy season in the Himalayas. Team member Le Lambier He was a participant in the Swiss team in the spring of the same year. Team member En Gillienfurter and Nepali Fujishin, who was hired in the spring, reached an altitude of 8,100 meters, but failed again due to bad weather.
16. In 1953, two members of the British mountaineering team (composed of ten people), led by captain John Hunter, reached the summit of Mount Everest. The team members who reached the summit were I. Hilary (New Zealander) and Tensin Norgay (the Nepalese who climbed the 8,000-meter mark twice with the Swiss mountaineering team in the spring and autumn of 1952). Team members Evans and Burgiran reached a height of 8,720 meters. The height of Mount Everest used by the British this time is 8,840 meters.
17. In 1956, the Swiss mountaineering team (captain Albert Egger) consisted of five people, including E. Schmitt, Yu Marmit, A. Leis, and G. ·Gonqin, with the support of a large number of Nepalese porters and guides, climbed Mount Everest in two groups on May 23. The route they used was the route that was opened up by Swiss athletes in 1952 and was later used successfully by the British team. That is, from the Kongbu Glacier on the south slope of Mount Everest to the mountain col (commonly known as the South Col) between Mount Everest and its sister peak Luoze Peak (8,501 meters above sea level), and then climb to the top along the southeast ridge. The Everest elevation used is 8,848 meters.
18. In the early morning of May 25, 1960, the Chinese Mount Everest mountaineering team (commander-in-chief Han Fudong and team leader Shi Zhanchun), led by assault team leader Wang Fuzhou, climbed to the world's highest altitude from the north slope of China for the first time. At the highest peak, the three team members who reached the top were Wang Fuzhou, Gongbu (Tibetan) and Qu Yinhua. Amid the anti-China clamor of the international imperialist revisionists at that time, and when three years of natural disasters and betrayal of faith unilaterally withdrew from the activities of Chinese and Soviet mountaineers *** climbing Mount Everest together, Chinese mountaineers this time climbed from the north slope. The victory of successfully climbing Mount Everest for the first time fully demonstrated the revolutionary heroic spirit of the Chinese people under the leadership of the Communist Party of China and Chairman Mao.
In this mountaineering battle, 29 members of the Chinese mountaineering team climbed to a height of more than 8,100 meters on Mount Everest. In addition to the summit members, there were 13 members who climbed the mountain. At an altitude of 8,500 meters above sea level. This is also the first time in the history of world mountaineering.
19. In May 1960, when the Chinese mountaineering team was assaulting Mount Everest from the north slope, an Indian mountaineering team led by Major Ji Singh of the Indian Army was also ascending from the south slope of Mount Everest. Climbing Mount Everest in Nepal. When they reached an altitude of 8,625 meters on the south slope, they announced that they could not move forward due to strong winds and gave up the summit attempt.
20. In 1962, India’s second Everest mountaineering team, led by the captain, Lieutenant Colonel Jay Dias of the Indian Army, once again climbed Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal. It was another The attempt failed due to fear of strong winds, and two of the team members climbed to an altitude of 8,717 meters above sea level.
21. In 1963, the American Mount Everest climbing team (captain En Dillinfas) succeeded in climbing to the summit from the south slope of Mount Everest in Nepal along the southwest ridge. The American team conducted two assaults 21 days apart. The first time, two people climbed to the top on May 1, the second time, four people climbed to the top on May 22, and twice, six people climbed up. It is the fourth mountaineering team to climb Mount Everest.
22. In 1965, the Indian mountaineering team (the captain was Lieutenant Commander Mu Guoli of the Indian Navy) climbed four ladders successively on May 20, 22, 24 and 29. A group climbed to the summit of Mount Everest from the southern slopes of Nepal. Nine people made it up four times. The captain, deputy captain and members of the mountaineering team were all selected from active service members of India. The route used was used by British and Swedish teams in the past. old route.
23. In the spring of 1969, the Japanese mountaineering team made the first exploratory climbing from the south slope of Mount Everest. After reaching the Kongbu Glacier area at an altitude of 6,450 meters, some glacier and meteorological observers were left behind. , they stayed in the Mount Everest for a full year and made long-term observations on meteorology, glaciers, etc., which laid the necessary foundation for the Japanese team to officially climb Mount Everest in 1970.
In the autumn of 1969, the Japanese Mount Everest mountaineering team (captain Yoshihiro Fujita) attempted to capture Mount Everest from the south slope based on the mountaineering reconnaissance in the spring of that year. However, they reached an altitude of 8,000 After reaching a height of 1.3 meters, he announced that he had "completed the autumn mountaineering reconnaissance mission" and returned.
In the spring of 1970, the Japanese Mount Everest mountaineering team was led by the 70-year-old captain Saburo Matsukata (this man was a veteran of the Japanese mountaineering community. Although he participated in this mountaineering, he was not involved in mountaineering activities. He spent all the time at the base camp and did not participate in the adaptive march or the summit activities. His participation shows that the Japanese mountaineering community attaches great importance to this event), and he was divided into two groups to attack Mount Everest:
A group of people go straight to the summit of Mount Everest along an 800-meter-long very steep rock wall (also called a rock wall) from the south face of Mount Everest. This is a relatively difficult climb chosen by the Japanese. route, because they dare to carry out "technical mountaineering" at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters, that is, climbing steep rock walls, which has not been done by mountaineering teams from other countries in the past. The other group still chose the traditional old route, which is the route to the summit from the south slope through the South Col along the southeast ridge.
The reason why the Japanese team was divided into two groups and dared to challenge the front rock wall of the southern slope of Mount Everest was inseparable from the world mountaineering trend at that time. Because climbing to the summit along the traditional route from the south slope and taking the path that others have taken is of little significance to the rapidly developing alpine mountaineering movement. The Japanese team's frontal summit route on the south slope failed as it was expected to rise about 150 meters (based on the vertical height of the slope). In the end, they had to rely on the second group's traditional route. On May 11 and 12, 1970, the team was divided into two echelon groups and four people successfully climbed to the summit via the traditional route. The summit team members were Matsuura Teruo, Uemura Naomi, Tairabayashi Katsutoshi and a Nepalese porter. Chautari.
In the spring of 1971, the "International Everest Climbing Team" was formed by mountaineers from 11 European countries, including Britain, France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland and India. Under the leadership of En Kilianfurter, they climbed to the summit along the southwest ridge route of the south slope of Mount Everest (note: basically the route of the 1963 American mountaineering team). Due to inconsistent steps from the beginning and great internal disagreements, it was declared a failure after the Indian team member Huguna died in an avalanche.
In the spring of 1972, a team of mountaineers from eight European countries (Britain, France, Italy, Austria, West Germany, Switzerland and other countries) led by Siddiq Heilikaufer The "European Everest Mountaineering Team" climbed to the summit from the south slope along the traditional route, but failed after reaching an altitude of 8,200 meters.
In the autumn of 1972 (September to November), the British military mountaineering team (Captain Bonington) climbed Mount Everest along the traditional route on the south slope. After establishing an assault camp at an altitude of 8,230 meters, , was forced to declare failure due to climate change.
29. In the spring of 1973 (February-May), the Italian military mountaineering team, led by Guido Monzino, the principal of the Italian Military Mountaineering School, formed a team including the Italian army, navy, air force, police A large-scale Everest mountaineering team composed of troops, customs personnel, medical, meteorological and other military scientific staff organized two expeditions on May 5 and May 7 of that year, one group (four people) each time, one *** eight people People climbed to the top of Mount Everest.
There are about 60 Italian soldiers in the whole team, which is the largest number of foreign mountaineering teams to climb in Nepal so far. They hired more than 300 Nepalese porters and guides and mobilized a variety of transportation tools, including modern mountain transportation tools such as military helicopters and slope tractors.
The Italian military mountaineering team’s summit route originally had two plans. One was to climb to the summit along the southwest ridge (originally the route used by the American team in 1963), and the other was a backup plan, which was a safer route. , the traditional route to the southeast ridge summit. As a result, the first plan was blocked, and in the end, the backup plan was adopted to reach the top.
In the autumn of 1973, the Japanese Mount Everest climbing team (captain Shotaro Mizuno) entered Mount Everest in August of that year. The original attempt was to reach the summit from the south route of Mount Everest, which the Japanese team had failed to achieve in 1970. , I tried every means to improve the equipment in advance, such as oxygen equipment suitable for altitudes above 8,000 meters, but still could not cross the large rock wall above 8,000 meters above sea level. As a result, I was forced to adopt a backup plan, along the southeast ridge through the south Climb the traditional route to the summit. Two team members, Hisashi Ishiguro and Yasuo Kato, reached the summit of Mount Everest on October 26. This is the first time in the history of Everest climbing that the climber has successfully reached the summit in autumn.
31. In the spring of 1974, the Spanish Mount Everest climbing team (captain Lorente Sugasa, a physiologist), consisting of sixteen people, used the traditional route on the south slope. On May 19, the commandos When they reached Camp 6 (8,600 meters), they failed due to strong winds that prevented them from moving forward. At that time, they were only 350 meters away from the summit of Mount Everest.
In the autumn of 1974, the French Mount Everest climbing team, captained by Devo Asson, the mayor of Chamonix (a small mountain town in the Alps), a famous French mountaineering and skiing city, Composed of ten Frenchmen and employing 390 Nepali porters and guides, they selected the route of the 1963 American mountaineering team along the southwest ridge to reach the summit. One of the main purposes of this mountaineering is to test the physiological changes of the human body at high altitude. They specially made a remote-controlled electrocardiogram device for each summit team member, and prepared to conduct a systematic observation of all electrocardiograms of the athletes from the bottom of the mountain to the top. However, on the night of September 19, a large avalanche occurred near an altitude of 6,400 to 6,900 meters, killing the team leader and five Nepali porters, and the entire team's mountaineering activities failed.
In the spring of 1975, a Japanese women’s Mount Everest climbing team (team leader Hideko Nagano) composed of fifteen Japanese women, accompanied by a Japanese male reporter, climbed Mount Everest on March 16 A base camp was established on the southern slope at an altitude of 5,350 meters. Vice-captain Junko Tabei (36 years old) climbed to the summit of Mount Everest along the traditional route on the south slope at 12:30 noon local time on May 16, 1975, together with Nepali guide An Zelin (27 years old), and stopped for the first time. 25 minutes.
The Japanese women’s team encountered greater difficulties in this mountaineering. They set out from Japan to the base camp at the foot of the mountain and lost a lot of equipment and food; on the night of May 3rd and 4th, another large avalanche suddenly occurred at the camp at an altitude of 6,450 meters. Seven female team members and 23 The Nepalese guide was hit by an avalanche. The entire 6,450-meter camp was engulfed by the avalanche. The situation was very dangerous. However, after receiving timely rescue, all the people in distress escaped. Junko Tabei was also one of the team members buried by the avalanche. She was boarding the After the summit, he said, "I will never do activities like mountain climbing again!"
34. In 1975, the Chinese Mount Everest Mountaineering Team (Party Secretary Wang Fuzhou, Captain Shi Zhanchun) consisted of Han, Tibetan, Hui, and The team members are composed of seven fraternal ethnic groups including Mongolia, Korea, Turkey, and Ewenki. There are 434 members, including 179 athletes, including 36 female athletes, and the remaining 255 people are engaged in scientific research, meteorology, communications, journalism, medical, and transportation. , cooks and other support personnel, most of whom come from workers, peasants and soldiers.
The whole team entered the mountains in early March and withdrew from the camp in early June.
After many marches (the first three were adaptive marches and the last two were peak assaults), at 2:30 pm Beijing time on May 27, 1975, the female team member Pan Duo and eight male team members Sonam Rob and Luo Ze , Hou Shengfu, Sangzhu, Dapingcuo, Gongga Pasang, Tsering Dorje, and Abuqin. After the Chinese mountaineering team Wang Fuzhou, Gonpot, and Qu Yinhua climbed Mount Everest from the north slope for the first time in 1960, they climbed Mount Everest from the north slope again. The highest point on earth
The large number of people who collectively climbed to the top this time and the scientific results achieved are unprecedented in the history of world mountaineering. Since then, more and more Chinese have climbed to the top of Mount Everest. China's progress and strength have gradually made Chinese climbers one of the leading forces in the world's Everest mountaineering movement.
35. At 6 pm Nepal time on September 24, 1975, two members of the British mountaineering team, Heston (32 years old) and Scott (33 years old), climbed from the south slope of Mount Everest. Climbed Mount Everest.
The route of the British team was determined by the Japanese team during reconnaissance in 1969. However, in 1970 and 1973, the Japanese team climbed along this line twice, both at 8,500 meters to 8,150 meters. The climb failed on the steep rock wall on the south slope of Mount Everest. Later, the international mountaineering team, the European selection team and the British team successively climbed Mount Everest along this line and also failed. This is the fourth successful route so far and the shortest of the four. It is characterized by a long rocky cliff with an average slope of 75 degrees at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters. The British used special oxygen equipment and conducted specialized alpine rock climbing training to achieve success.
According to foreign reports, it took the British team thirty-three days to climb Mount Everest from establishing base camp to successfully climbing to the summit. This is the eleventh time in 22 years that they have climbed Mount Everest. The team with the shortest time in the activity shows that it has done relatively smoothly in organizing transportation and grasping the weather timing. The British team consists of eighteen athletes, captained by Bonington. During the assault on the summit, team member Zhu Buerke died. According to the British team's announcement, the total cost of this mountain climbing is US$250,000.
In the spring and autumn of 1975, three mountaineering teams successfully climbed Mount Everest from three different routes. This was unprecedented in the history of Mount Everest climbing.
36. In 1988, mountaineers from China, Japan and Nepal joined hands to challenge Mount Everest. They met the summit from the north and south sides and successfully crossed Mount Everest in both directions. Three Chinese team members successfully crossed Mount Everest, and one person At the summit, Tsering Dorje set a world record of staying at the summit without oxygen for 99 minutes.
37. In 1990, climbers from China, the Soviet Union and the United States gathered on Mount Everest in the name of peace, showing their peace-loving aspirations to the world. Seven Tibetan team members from China reached the top of the mountain one after another.
38. In 1993, six mountaineers from both sides of the Taiwan Strait climbed Mount Everest together for the first time, writing a wonderful page in history. Wu Jinxiong became the first Taiwanese compatriot to climb Mount Everest.
39. In 1996 and 1997, China successively carried out joint climbing activities with Slovakia and Pakistan. Four Tibetan team members reached the summit. Among them, Ciluo became the first Chinese to climb Mount Everest. University students, Da Qimi and Kaicun became people who have climbed Mount Everest twice.
40. On May 27, 1999, all 10 Tibetan members of the Tibetan Mountaineering Team climbed Mount Everest at once and collected the 6th National Ethnic Minority Traditional Sports Games at the summit of 8848·13 meters. Holy fire kindling. This is a feat full of wisdom and imagination, and a testimony to the confidence of 1.2 billion Chinese people heading into the new century. Guisang became the first woman in the world to climb Mount Everest twice from the north slope, and Renna and Jiji became the first couple in China to climb Mount Everest at the same time.
41. The history of Chinese climbing Mount Everest is not only reserved for professional team members. In recent years, amateurs have continued to challenge Mount Everest. In 2000, Yan Genghua, the Heilongjiang warrior who was China's first civilian solo challenger on Mount Everest, reached the summit on May 21, but unfortunately died on the way down.
In 2002, another warrior, Wang Tianhan, finally succeeded in challenging Mount Everest alone.
In 2003, 14 Chinese members of the China-South Korea Joint Mountaineering Team and the 2003 China Everest Mountaineering Team successfully climbed Mount Everest on May 21 and 22 respectively. They are Xiao Qimi, Pubhu Zhuoga (female), Cangmula (female), Nyima Tsering, Liang Qun (female), Chen Junchi, Ngawang, Pubhu Dundup, Tashi Tsering, Wangdui, Jala, Luo Shen, Wang Shi and Liu Jian
On May 27, 1975, women climbed Mount Everest from the north slope for the first time. Pan Duo, born in 1938. Tibetan. Chinese female mountaineer. Representative to the 5th National People's Congress of the People's Republic of China. In 1959, he joined the Chinese Mountaineering Team and climbed Muztagh Mountain (7546 meters) in the same year. In 1961, he climbed Gonggeer Jiubie Peak (7595 meters). Twice set the women's mountaineering world record. On May 27, 1975, she and eight other male team members climbed Mount Everest, becoming the first woman in the world to climb Mount Everest from the north slope. The National Sports Commission of China honored her with special merit and awarded her three sports medals of honor.
Climbing History
1921 - The first British mountaineering team, led by Lieutenant Colonel Charles Howard Bury, began to climb Mount Everest, reaching an altitude of 7,000 meters.
1922 - The second British mountaineering team used an oxygen supply device to reach an altitude of 8,320 meters.
1924 - When the third British mountaineering team climbed Mount Everest, George Mallory and Andrew Owen disappeared while using oxygen supply equipment to reach the summit. Mallory's body was found at an altitude of 8,150 meters in 1999, and the camera he carried was missing, so it is impossible to determine whether he and Irving were the first people in the world to successfully reach the summit.
May 29, 1953 - Edmund Hillary, a 34-year-old mountaineer from New Zealand, and a member of the British mountaineering team met with the 39-year-old Nepalese guide Tenzing Norgay. Together they climbed Mount Everest along the southeast ridge route, becoming the first mountaineering team on record to successfully reach the summit.
1956 - A Swiss mountaineering team headed by Albert Eggler climbed Mount Everest for the second time in human history. (Since accurate records began)
May 25, 1960 - The Chinese climbed Mount Everest for the first time. They are Wang Fuzhou, Gongbu and Qu Yinhua. This climb is also the first time it has been successfully climbed from the north slope.
1963 - The American expedition led by Norman Dylan Firth successfully climbed to the summit from the western slope for the first time.
1975 - Japanese Junko Tabei became the first woman in the world to climb Mount Everest from the south slope.
This year, the Chinese mountaineering team climbed Mount Everest for the second time, and 9 members reached the summit. Among them, Pan Duo, a Tibetan team member, became the first woman in the world to successfully reach the summit from the north slope.
1978 - Austrian Peter Hubbell and Italian Reinhold Messner successfully climbed to the summit for the first time without oxygen bottles.
1980——Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wierikski successfully climbed Mount Everest in winter for the first time.
1988——The joint mountaineering team of China, Japan, and Nepal successfully climbed Mount Everest from the north and south sides for the first time.
1996 - Fifteen climbers, including the famous mountaineer Rob Hall, died while climbing to the summit. This was the year with the largest number of sacrifices in the history of climbing Mount Everest.
1998 - American Tom Whitaker became the first disabled person in the world to successfully climb Mount Everest.
2000 - Babu Chiri, a famous Nepalese mountaineer, climbed from the base camp from the north slope and successfully reached the summit in 16 hours and 56 minutes, setting a record for the fastest climb to the summit.
2001 - American Weichenmayer became the first blind person in the world to climb Mount Everest.
2003 - Commemorating the 50th anniversary of the first successful climb of Mount Everest.
2005——China’s fourth comprehensive scientific expedition height measurement team in the Mount Everest region successfully climbed Mount Everest and measured the height data of Mount Everest.