Shanshui Tongguan

Text/Xiaoshan

Go eastbound along the birthplace of the Yellow River, and turn the "Ji" Dawan at the last southbound small county. This place is the historic Tongguan.

Tongguan belonged to Yongzhou in ancient times, with Taolin in the business and Gyeonggi in the week. It was called "Taolin Village" in the Spring and Autumn Period. According to legend, Zhou Wuwang used to graze here. At that time, there was a saying that "the horse put the south mountain and grazed the cattle and peach trees". The warring States period belongs to Qin dynasty, that is, the Hangu Pass was set up. Taolin Village and Hanguguan shoulder the heavy responsibility of guarding the State of Qin. Since the Qin and Han Dynasties, "Taolin Highland", "Tongshuiguan" and "Taolinzhai" have all been the names of Tongguan. Later Zhou Dynasty, Emperor Wendi defeated East Wei Jun, killed General Dou Tai here and changed Taolin Village to "Tonggu Pass". Tongguan only appeared as an independent pass. In the seventh year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty, Tongguan Shouqian was established, in the ninth year, Tongguan Wei was established, and in the fifth year of Yongzheng in the Qing Dynasty, Tongguan County was established. After that, although there were some minor changes in the name, the name was basically used.

Tongguan has the towering Qinling Mountains in the south, the surging Yellow River in the north, the forbidden ditch in the east and the natural barrier of Hua Yue in the west. It is a natural "land of four blockades". In ancient times, "the king set up insurance to protect the country, and its land is thousands of miles away. What is the insurance side?" "Since the letter valley pass was abandoned, Tongguan was a pass, and the lock and key ball was muddy, standing tall in the town. It is said that only Tongguan is the leader of 102. " "The Spring and Autumn Biography" said: "Tongguan in Qin, Jiange in Shu, is the gateway to the country". Records of Shanhaiguan: "Risks within the capital are only called Tongguan and Shanhai". There was a poem in the Tang Dynasty that said, "The road on earth ends in Tongguan." . People often use the "four show smoke" to describe the urgency of a war in a certain place, but for Tongguan, this "four show smoke" is far from telling the importance of Tongguan. Tongguan people say that "five wolves smoke" is more than your "four". It can be seen that Tongguan is indeed a land of "three strong and three auxiliary, and the door is on Kyushu".

Tongguan is proud of the dangers of mountains and rivers. There are four famous mountains in the southeast and southwest of Guancheng, namely Qilin Mountain and Yintai Mountain in the southeast, Fenghuang Mountain and Xiangshan Mountain in the southwest (commonly known as "Scorpion Mountain"). Four mountains stand in a corner, which is the highland of the city. The troops are stationed on it, with a broad vision and supervision of key points everywhere. There is a "Twelve Liancheng (Beacon Tower)" along the forbidden ditch in the southeast, which extends southward to the foot of the Qinling Mountains, turning the whole city into a huge wedge, firmly sticking to the south bank of the Yellow River and becoming the most stable fortress for guarding the Guanzhong Plain.

Under the forbidden ditch, the Tong River gurgles, originating from the Tong River in Fotouya, Guo Song, Qinling Mountains, and flowing through the forbidden ditch. Plus spring water, it is even more magnificent. The water flows through the city, and the north water pays attention to the Yellow River. "There is water in the dangerous pass, and it enters the river in the north, so it is named Tongguan", which should be the origin of Tongguan's name.

"Infinite scenery on the dangerous peak". Although Tongguan is not a dangerous peak, it has a unique beauty. Eight Scenes of Tongguan is one of them.

Standing in Tongguan Garden, looking north, Zhongtiao Mountain stands impressively. If it's snowy, isn't Zhongtiaoshan wrapped in silver a case in front of Tongguan City? Looking back at the south, the towering Qinling mountains are covered with mountains and clouds. Under the sunshine, a huge "Qin Lingyun screen" picture appears. When you set foot on the Yellow River in spring, you can watch Spring Water of the Yellow River early and enjoy Night Scene of Chanlou late. In your spare time, you can visit Dongshan, pay homage to the statue of Nu Wa, and appreciate the charm of "Fengling Xiaodu" in legends and stories. Now, although we can't hear the sound of the magic bell that penetrates people's hearts, we can't feel the majestic atmosphere. But we can take a walk along the "Shili Corridor", think about the battles in ancient battlefields, and feel the history and culture of Tongguan in the "Dongshan Cultural Scenic Area". You can taste "authentic catfish soup" on the Yellow River beach. You can climb the Fotou Cliff and see the "100,000 Mountains" overlooking Tongguan, which has a beautiful view.

Although Tongguan is small, it has always been a battleground for military strategists. There have been many wars in this small world that can change the course of China's history. Zhao Haoqi of Qin went through the customs with Tian Lei to collect Hangu Pass, and won more than 60 cities of Wei in World War I, the land of Wei in the past and the land of Qin today. Therefore, in Tongguan, there is a proverb "Thirty years east of the river, thirty years west of the river".

In the 16th year of Emperor Xian's Jian 'an, Cao Cao fought with Ma Chao and Han Sui in Tongguan for more than a month. Although Cao Cao won, he almost "died in Tongguan" (Zhuge Liang's Later Example). The story of "Ma Chao Robinia pseudoacacia" is still circulating among the people. During the Tianbao period of Tang Dynasty, Tongguan, as the guard of Chang 'an, became more important because of the "Anshi Rebellion". Gao Xianzhi, Ge Shuhan and Guo Ziyi were stationed in Tongguan successively. After the calendar, there were wars in Tongguan, especially between the peasant rebels in Li Zicheng and the Qing Dynasty. Stories such as "shelling Dongshe tableland" and "breaking Wang Shoutong Pass" are still circulating.

In addition to real historical records, there are many beautiful legends in Tongguan. According to legend, Nu Wa tried to find a place to cultivate her body and mind after refining the stone and mending the sky. I have traveled all over the famous mountains and rivers, but I think Tongguan is better. After his death, people buried him in the south bank of the Yellow River to thank him for saving the people and called him "wind chime". After several generations of vicissitudes, the river moved south and the Yellow River flowed over the land. Later generations called the ferry here "fenglingdu", and now "fenglingdu" in Shanxi is the transliteration of fenglingdu.

Tongguan's ancient name "Taolin Village" is also legendary. According to Shan Hai Jing? "Overseas North Classics" recorded that Japan was driven away and entered Japan, thirsty, wanting to drink, drinking in rivers and Wei; He, Wei and Bei drink Ozawa. Before he arrived, he died of thirst. Abandon his staff and become Deng Lin. "This' Deng Lin' is Tao Lin. This is the origin of the earliest title "Taolinzhai" in Tongguan. There are also stories such as "the princess under the Buddha's head practices" and "the king of Qin rides a horse to make a clear spring", all of which happened in Tongguan, a magical place.

"The benevolent Leshan, the wise enjoy the water", including Tongguan people with prosperous mountains and rivers, the massiness of mountains and the agility of water. There are not only the "miracle of the God-man" who is full of the world, but also real people and stories that shine in history. China's famous "Kansai Master" Yang Zhen is a native of Shuiyukou, Tongguan. His honesty and incorruptibility spread widely with his story of "getting gold at night". The theory of "knowing heaven and earth, knowing you and knowing me" is still in my ears. The location of Yangzhen Mausoleum has been changed to "Sizhi Village", and the mausoleum has been built into "Yangzhen Integrity Education Base" for future generations to visit.

Liu Qi and Liu Kuan, who were later called "old father and son", were also from Liucun (Huangniubao) in Tongguan. Although Liu Kuan was born in an official family, influenced by his simple and smooth family style, he developed the habit of advocating simplicity and pushing humility from an early age. Once driving on the road, someone mistakenly thought that the cow he was driving was his lost cow. Without saying anything, he asked the man to take the cow and walk home. Not long after, the person who lost the cow returned Liu Kuan's cow when he found his own, and repeatedly kowtowed and apologized: "If you are ashamed of your elders, you will be punished accordingly." Liu Kuan, on the other hand, said with tolerance: "Birds of a feather flock together, and things are correct. Fortunately, what is the reward?" This story spread abroad, and every county and village became salty, calling their village "Niu Bao". And later Yang Qin, Su Yang, Ge da ji and so on. It is precisely because of the existence of these sages that Tongguan people are simple, hardworking and kind to others, and have raised generations of Tongguan people who worship ceremony and thrift.

However, Tongguan has always been associated with war. As the pass of the guards, Tongguan suffered from war and looting. Especially since Li Zicheng broke Tongguan and established Dashun regime, "there are only many soldiers and officials left in the city." Population migration is frequent, "exiles" are numerous, and local customs change. In the fusion of many folk customs, there is always the spirit of "soldiers and bandits". The most obvious place is the change of speech. Their voices are short and powerful, and their voices are loud and clear. The most representative features are "raw, cold, hard and stubborn" (see my book Tongguan People). But still respectful and humble.

The ancient style of the past makes people nostalgic, and today's Tongguan is even more gratifying. With the efforts of officials and people in the new era, Tongguan has undergone earth-shaking changes. Relying on the benefits of mountains and rivers, Tongguan has become a famous "gold-producing county" in China because of the gold mines opened by "East Tongyu" and "West Tongyu" in Qinling Mountains, so Tongguan has the reputation of "Golden City of China". The "Dongshan Cultural Scenic Area" was built in the former site of the ancient city, and the reconstructed remains of the ancient city "made Tongguan full of tourism vitality.

Today's Tongguan has long been far away from the era of war, replaced by a thriving vitality.

Huaxia Jincheng faces Du Yue. Standing at the head of Tongguan tableland overlooking the magnificent scene where the Yellow River, Weihe River and Luohe River meet, speedboats are flying in the river and tourists are weaving on the shore. Lianhuo Expressway runs through the east and west, and the Yellow River Bridge connects the north and the south. The ancient style is shining and the water waves are sparkling. It is a magnificent picture inside and outside the mountains and rivers. In the past, "goat? In Tongguan Nostalgia, the words "the peaks are like clusters, and the waves are like anger" are still there, but the feeling that "the mountains and rivers are all inside and outside Tongguan Road, looking to the west and hesitating" is gone forever. For Tongguan, which is located in the three provinces of Jiming Listening, it is very convenient to go out of Shaanxi, Henan or xi 'an, the provincial capital.

Looking back, many feelings are gathered in the pen. I am "Huaxia Jincheng"! How beautiful! I am "Tongguan Landscape"!