Dahe Village Record
I
I don't know why? In their own inner world feel that the Great River Pass is seeking to come.
That year, after ten years of mountaineering, because of knee problems, plus, a mountaineering, a mountaineer fell from a cliff, sent to the hospital and died soon after. Since the mountaineering, has been very attentive to safety issues, did not expect, walking a very common line, or accidents. This proves once again that mountaineering itself is a dangerous thing. A period of time, I traveled along the Xi River, no purpose, looking for an ancient village, looking for a section of the ancient road, walk a section of the river valley, play a bit of stream.
The sky is not mountainous, this may be a walk for ten years Taihang feeling, before the beginning of the mountaineering, as long as I heard that the line has not walked, anxious to contact, looking for guides, asked to go to the guest. Instead of the scenic area, there is no passion, the feeling that the scenic area is a graceful young woman, a lot of artificial carving into. The beauty of the scenic area is like a concentrated bonsai, there is no wildness, man-made elements are too much. Yes, I have been asking myself, what is the most beautiful scenery in the Taihang Mountains, learning photography for many years, I have seen the sunrise in Taihang, especially the unique sunrise, only a specific moment will appear. The rain in the Taihang, the kind of charming, after the snow Taihang, the kind of cold, and a kind of Taihang beauty, only can be said, and can not be said.
Walking along a river, recording the feeling of a river, that is, just listening to the name of the village, is an interesting thing. E fish ditch, Yangjiachi, bridge, west hill, east hill?
In the spring, look at the mountains full of wild peach blossoms in full bloom, followed by apricot blossoms, plum blossoms, pear blossoms, apple blossoms. There are also mountains full of wild vegetables, yellow cauliflower, dandelion, wild leeks, and acacia flowers, toon. In short, walking along a river is full of childhood memories, but also the spirit of the empty mountains, approaching the pool, sitting on the rocks in the river, looking at the wild reeds, listening to birdsong, listening to a song of the stream chanting, looking at the sky streaming clouds, washing the inner noise.
The line to the end of the water, sit and watch the clouds rise.
One day, parked the car to the village of Dahe, which has a scenic spot called Qinglong Gorge, and a tower on the opposite bank called Fosu Pagoda. It felt like I knew the village because, before this, had driven by the village several times. If someone had asked me, have you ever been there? I would have said I had been.
It was in this mood that my wife and I walked into the village. We didn't expect to find something we hadn't thought of.
Daheguan, an ancient one off, just like this into my vision, so much so that came several times, on the Internet, friends still ask this is there, I became the narrator, but also became a guide.
A free time, led friends to the village of Dahe, see the ancient Dahe pass, always want to introduce more friends Dahe pass.
Two
Speaking of Dahe Village, we have to talk about a river. This river we Linzhou people called Xi River, after which, into the Qi River, and then into the Wei River.
Dahe Village, in the east of Qinglongxia.
Hour, we Linzhou people called the ancient path of the Xi River for the River Crossing Gorge, and Hu Guan called Longquan Gorge, see the different perspectives, the name is also different.
Poetry had said: Qi water soup soup, gradual car curtains, Qi water leisurely, juniper oars pine boat. That in the spring and fall woman who was thinking back to her own marriage, she can see the scenery of the Ki water, but also one of the sources of Ki water, this suburban gully river?
In the village of Dahe, the north bank of the river and Jiaogou River parallel is an ancient road, the ancient name of the cave defile ridge road, is the main road of Jin and Henan.
Dahe Village is located in Hu Guan County bridge on the township to the east about five kilometers, is a quiet mountain village deep in the Taihang Mountains. The village is located in the middle of a gorge and consists of the natural villages of Dongpo, Poshi, Shangping and Houyan, with about 200 families and more than 800 people.
Guangxu version of the "Shanxi Tongzhi" records: Dahekou, one hundred and forty miles southeast of the Hu Guan County, the ancient cave defile ridge Road also, through Linxian, there are camps and crippling cards, the north of the Yu Xiaguan, that is, the ancient goat intestines Sakan also, there are floods, the east out of the passes said the garden ladder, said the Golden Lantern Temple, and through the Linxian County, which by the passes between the Road to the mouth of the river is said to be five miles of gurgling.
Since the highway was built, many of the old road is deserted. In the past few years, the village began to refurbish the ancient road, standing in the east of the village, a brick and stone coupon gate across its. The gate is engraved with the words: Dongjun Chongguan (东峻重关). This pass is the Qing dynasty Tongzhi 11 years established, he was the main role of the prevention and control of peasant insurgents in Henan into Shanxi, where the construction of a pass, this ancient pass destroyed in the war during the anti-Japanese war, last year's restoration.
Stepping on the ancient road, between the two passes, above the river valley, there is a green stone arch bridge, called "Trestle Bridge". Without this bridge, crossing the river valley is difficult. It is written on the introduction plate: "Hu Guan County Records" recorded: "Trestle Bridge in the county south river crossing (now the village of Dahe), the ground for the Jin Yu Kong Road, ......" has been more than 200 years.
It has always felt that the ancient village must have a temple, crossing the stone arch bridge, you see a Guanyin Temple. Ditch River at the confluence of Guanlong Stream on top of a boulder. Covering an area of 450 square meters, Bunan Hall 3 pillars, East Theater 1, 13 rooms, walls made of barren stone, after a hundred years, solid as the beginning of the 1940 flood, the level of the temple is only 3 steps away, more than 30 officers and soldiers in the temple kneeling prayers, after the water receded, the temple is intact, can be said to be magical. Of course, I know this is a legend, the Chinese people say, the Buddha has no boundaries.
Less than two meters wide on the ancient road, the green stone was time polished smooth as a mirror, between the cracks of the stone full of grass, such an ancient road so that people immediately blurred the length of time, as if from ancient times to the present day is just a snap of the fingers. Ancient road on the hoofprints one after another, there are large and small, deep and shallow, this is an early summer rain, hoofprints at the accumulation of water, clear water reflecting the sun, with dazzling sparkling light, as if the eyes of history, watching the river of silence, watching the noise of the mountain.
The old road in front of the pass is only 4 meters wide, about 50 meters long, covering an area of 200 square meters, not to mention the thousands of troops and horses dancing and sticking, standing on the hundreds of people here is already full. Guanlou sit west to east, east and west 5.1 meters long, north and south 6.1 meters wide, the existing body for the Qing Dynasty remains, the coupon doorway 3.1 meters high, 2.9 meters wide, vaguely see the "Dahe Guan" characters.
The ancient pass is still in, into the pass is when the proceedings, is three rooms, is made of green brick. Just on the lock, can only imagine, when countless people walked here, to face the check of the officials and soldiers. And go up, is the year of the salt store, China from very early in the implementation of the grain and salt franchise, which is also an important source of national tax revenue.
Walking in the ancient village can see the monuments left behind, and sometimes hear the ancient mystery not seen. Once again into the Daheguan official office, living in the old courtyard of the old man, enthusiastically tell us the old story of Daheguan, pointing to the door of a high platform, he told him when he was a child, where there is an ancient battery,
Yifu Dangkuan, ten thousand fugitives, here is a gun when the pass.
Chang'an look back embroidery into a pile, the top of the mountain thousands of doors open. A ride on the red dust consort laughs, no one knows it is lychee to come. In my imagination, riding a horse a post station connected to a post station, passing is not a letter, but a basket of fresh lychee, let the heart of the mouth, born in the north, did not eat lychee.
Stagecoach stops, refers to the ancient for the delivery of government documents to change horses or rest, accommodation in the middle of the place.
In the village near the river, there are a few ancient hammer trees growing in the rock crevices along the river, looking out at this one real-life stagecoach station. It is a courtyard, sitting north to south, along the river is the facade, the door in front of the upper horse stone, is the kind of lapis lazuli carved. The door is closed, but it seems that time is also outside of history. Outside of us, but also in the time of the inside, while looking for, and at the same time lost.
The broken bridge outside the stage, Tian Sai, lonely open without a master. It's already dusk and I'm worried alone, with the wind and rain.
The first time I saw this, I was in the middle of a long journey. The only thing I can say is that I have no idea what I'm talking about, and I don't know what I'm talking about, so I'm not going to say anything.
I don't know why. Standing in front of the stagecoach, I remembered Lu You's poem. Of course, the most millimetre is still the President's poem, the wind and rain send the spring return, snow to welcome the spring to. The cliff is already full of ice, but the flower branch is still pretty. I don't want to fight for spring, I just want to report the spring. When the spring flowers are in full bloom, she is laughing in the bushes.
Thoughts have to be flying, glad that I can see the old stagecoach, which I had not thought of. Of course, or Li Zicheng as a stagecoach, unemployed and then rebel. Wang Yangming in Guizhou stagecoach, awakened to create Yangming Xinxue.
Unintentionally walking, as if walking in the history of time and space, the old building is still there, it became a symbol. Standing on the bank of the Zhanshui River, as if I could see the passage of time, are we not also a symbol of the passage of time?
People like grass, but is a dust in the world. Knowing the past life, people also relaxed, people also quiet.
Three
Yes, an ancient pass, in their own imagination is so majestic, may be reading more novels, there is always a bit of the flavor of Jin Yong novels. That fall, close to the world's first customs Shanhaiguan, saw this majestic pass, understand the story behind this majestic pass, only to know the story of the personnel, far more than an ancient pass to be much richer. Later, when I walked along Taihang, I saw Hongtiguan and Yuxiaguan. Into the history of the mountain, human history more scenery.
Dahe Pass is the same, but, again, feel different from other places. It may be easy to come to Daheguan, come to Daheguan is looking for a little what? And there is no clear goal, let go of the mood, looking for something beyond the ancient pass, and the water of the Xihe River, as well as the ancient trees along the river, the river swimming fish, the sunrise of the Dahe Pass.
Daheguan built in when, all over the search is not obtained. Only the Qing "Hu Guan County Records" in: Xianfeng six years to set up a large river flooding garrison general. As for the current customs city built when, but also can not be examined. However, from the Tang Dynasty until the Republic of China, this has always been a strategic place, but also the passage of Jin and Henan, even if the transportation is well-connected today, it is still by Changzhi exit into the inter-provincial thoroughfare of Henan.
It is about the human culture of this ancient road.
North to the Taihang Mountains, difficult and lofty. The wheel is destroyed by the sheep's intestines, and the trees are in a state of depression, and the wind is blowing in the north. The trees are so sad, and the north wind is so sad. The first time I saw this, it was a very good thing that I was able to get a good deal on it. There are few people in the valleys, and the snow is falling! I sigh long and hard, and travel far and wide. My heart is so enraged that I want to return to the east. The water is deep, the bridge is dead, and the middle road is wandering. This is the "bitter cold line" of the poem, but also wrote the year to walk the ancient road of hardship.
"In the past, I waded through the Zhangshui River and drove to Yecheng. I saw the mountains of Linxu in the distance, and I saw the mountains in the sky. I met Ercao and told him that he was a rocky mountain. The paths of the roses were hanging down, and the stone houses were leaning on the ladder. The leeks are green in the fall, and the medicinal plants are in hundreds of rows. Chestnut forests pass the mouth of valleys, and Juniperus chinensis trees line the streams." The poem is from Gao Shi, a poet of the Sheng Tang Dynasty, and is titled "I met Yang Seventeen in the middle of the Song Dynasty and thus had a farewell".
In Yuanhe County Records, it is written that Luzhou takes the Cave Defile Ridge Road in the east to Xiangzhou (present-day Anyang), which is 350 kilometers away. Dahe Pass did not exist at that time, it is only a strategic place, at the same time to this as a key place there is another person ---- Li Calyx at the end of the year of Tianbao, at that time it is the year of 755 A.D.. Yan Zhenqing is a calligraphy in Chinese history, An Shi rebellion, he rose to resist, the nearby seventeen counties have responded, was once elected by the public as the ally, combined forces of 200,000 blocked the footsteps of An Lushan's hasty progress, Li Calyx is Yan Zhenqing's schemer, had for Yan planning the situation in Hebei, Li's strategy includes a, that is, to open a thief's mouth to get out of the division.
An ancient pass is a book. And this is a book, is that I came to the village many times to look for things, read the village of Dahe, perhaps read the Taihang Mountains, also read half of Chinese history.
Most of the people in the village have opened a farmhouse, the village also invited the photographer, a beautiful picture of the photos, and show the village of Dahe. Spring flowers, willow green and red peaches, the long ancient road, the majestic Guanlou. My friend had told me that a photographer had stood in front of the Buddha Life Pagoda, took a picture of the village in the snow, named Potala Palace. Because Dahe Village seeks on top of the cliff, from the river bank all the way up.
Dahe Village is also like other rural areas, now most people have bought houses in the county, most of the time live in the city. Most of those who stay now are old people.
Four
An ancient pass, an ancient village, as if there should be an ancient temple, there must be an ancient temple. That year approached the Songshan Shaolin Temple, view Dharma Cave, as if the landscape, there is a story wandering the end of the mountain. Wutai Mountain, Qinling, Mount Lushan, Jiuhua Mountain, Buddhism is something that can not be avoided, although I am not a Buddhist disciple, Buddhist culture must be in the landscape.
Spring Buddhist events. That year Ru Rui Venerable Master returned, I saw a swing big Buddhist ceremony, may be in the spring. Spring willow, spring grass, spring people. When I think of Dahe Village, I think of that Buddhist ceremony.
There is a mountain on the east side of Dahe Village, which is named Foshan by the mountain people.
In Dahe Village, when you walk towards the Buddha's Life Pagoda, you can see two big words of gratitude on a big stone. This is the handwriting of Venerable Ru Rui, who is from Henan province, born in Taiyuan in 1957, and became a monk in the early 1980s.
Dahe Village was her maternal grandmother's home, and she repaired the Repaying Grace Essence House a few years ago. Later, she repaired the Buddha's Life Pagoda.
I don't know Buddhism, I just like to roam the ancient temples, through the column of burning incense, you can see the hearts of one after another.
Buddha is the enlightened man, Bodhisattva, you are willing to selflessly and fearlessly serve the people.
There are many more in the village of Dahe, especially the flowers in the spring, the coolness of summer, the red leaves in the fall, the snow in the winter, nowhere is not the scenery.
By the way, the theater in the village of Dahe, the mountain people are still in the spring please social theater.
An ancient village is a play, and the play is changing, and the changing play is history. When you ask the village old man, he will tell you, maybe he is the descendant of the gatekeeper, maybe it is the descendant of the salt store, maybe it is the descendant of the stagecoach cook. The story of one generation becomes the life of another generation.