Nanxun
Before the advertisement of Shuijingfang Nanxun in the central government, I had been to several water towns not far from it and sketched several times. I always wanted to make a special trip to see it next time, that is, to pass by. The so-called "six ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River" lacks Nanxun, and Nanxun is not one of them. How many times has he tried to make up for this fly in the ointment? When Sui Tang painted lotus flowers, he told a painter that he felt the same way and wanted to travel to Jiangnan with me. The theme of our route is water town series, and the guide's guidance is "follow your feelings". On the eve of departure, the epidemic broke out sporadically in some areas. As always, we did it on the premise of making full preparations for psychological and material epidemic prevention. Of course, Nanxun is the first choice. Visiting the ancient town can't be superficial with the tour group. You must stop and stay, look carefully and think slowly.
Nanxun has always been a dream of mine. When my friends and I transferred to the bus by train, we were there day and night. It's really a bit like entering a dream. May be the reason why Mid-Autumn Festival and Golden Week have just passed? Maybe it's because the COVID-19 epidemic has not been completely controlled? On the way from the long-distance bus to the ancient town and then to the scenic spot of the water town, there is no noisy and horrible scene that has been encountered in other water towns before. We are always wondering in our hearts: is it true that "the golden jade is lost outside" exists in name only? I prayed silently in my heart: don't let us travel long distances "draw water with a sieve"? We approached it step by step almost alone as we asked. The unique outline of white walls and black tiles in Nanxun Town is becoming clearer and clearer, and the sound of flowing river water is becoming clearer and clearer. A continuous breath mixed with the fragrance of willow flowers on the waterfront has made us vaguely feel closer and closer to the water town in our dreams. Just now, our doubts and worries faded away with the breeze.
After crossing the Lian Jie Bridge on the periphery of Nanxun and the narrow aisle reserved by the construction enclosure, the veil of Nanxun water well was lifted, and it came into contact with the dream place. The wide water surface and wide stone road in the ancient water town are more profound and empty because there are few tourists. The first is the waterfront of the 100-storey building. The houses on both sides of the street are strewn at random, with high waists and eaves, high teeth and intrigue, which is quite imposing. Although the mottled refutation is slightly worn out, it is full of vicissitudes and humanistic accumulation, which is particularly touching. It seems that it has crossed just visiting and entered history and folk customs. This is the so-called ancient city, old street and old house that is self-defeating and retro now, which is expected due to the lack of years. It is also the protection of this natural sound that is the unique charm of Nanxun's reputation in recent years, right?
The time inn in the bottle that we came into contact with is on the edge of the stone arch bridge-shaped bronze golden bridge on the edge of the scenic spot. On the left, it is adjacent to the ancient stage and Little Square with cornices, arches and carved beams and painted buildings, and on the right, it is close to the mysterious deep house compound of the former residence of the Jin family. There are many shops dealing in silk, stationery, musical instruments and craft antiques on a 100-meter-long street. The facade decoration is very quaint, exquisite and elegant, full of fresh and sweet Jiangnan sentiment and rich and fragrant cultural and artistic atmosphere. On the Gao Qiao, down the steep steps, is a residential street, restaurants, pubs, cafes and small supermarkets, convenience stores mixed together, the air is thick with the smell of fireworks. Separated by a river and separated by a bridge, it turns out that they are two kinds of lives that don't seem to be very close. Here, the two complement each other and complement each other. At noon and in the evening, the Tao Di played by artists in the piano shop under the window is melodious, such as complaining, and the natural music is like nature, which makes people feel relaxed and fascinated. When creating watercolor sketches around Jintong Bridge, the smoke in the restaurant is caught by the smell from time to time, and the air changes from time to time when they cook different ingredients, which makes people drool and hungry. I can't wait to eat at once. Nanxun Town is really an excellent natural resort for living art, tourism and leisure.
Xu Chi, the author of Goldbach's Conjecture, is from Nanxun, and was named a "revolutionary saint" by Sun Yat-sen, and Zhang Jingjiang, who is also the financial boss of Chiang Kai-shek, is also from Nanxun. Nanxun is located on the bank of the Grand Canal, adjacent to the junction of Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. Sitting in a Thai hotel near Tai 'an Bridge, which Xu Chi visited from time to time and wrote in the book, and pacing on the stone road where he used to go back and forth from time to time, I can't help feeling the rapid changes in the Spring and Autumn Period, and the feeling that people are passers-by in the world is particularly real. Wandering in the streets and alleys of Nanxun Town and shuttling through the winding alleys really feels like capturing a little light and shadow of time. This is far from the scenery in a scenic spot like Xiaolianzhuang, and the garden exhibition hall in the garden can give it. During this week in Nanxun, we wandered around the bridge, Baijialou and the former residence of the Jin family on the periphery of the scenic spot almost every day, because it was sparsely populated and less repaired, which preserved the original flavor of the years. Nanxun Town is becoming more and more famous, and the transformation of the ancient town is becoming more and more amazing. The blue fence of construction is getting bigger and bigger everywhere like chasing us. Looking back at Lian Jie Bridge, I'm really worried about seeing Nanxun next time, but don't look neither fish nor fowl.
lily
After sketching in Nanxun for a week, I plan to turn to Zhouzhuang, which is known as the "first water town". Because there was no through train, we had to turn around and go through the little-known ancient town of Lili, so we simply stayed for a while. Previously, the understanding of it was limited to that it was the hometown of Liu Yazi, a great poet who sang with Wen Tao's Poems of Mao Zedong, and then it was introduced in this year's National Day tweet of Baidu. It was quiet and elegant, far away from the hubbub. Nanxun dare not slack off for a week, so it can be said that it is not tired. If Li can't arouse his creative enthusiasm, he can take a break and change his mind. Jiangnan began to get dark at five o'clock in the afternoon in late October, and it was almost completely dark before six o'clock. It was at this node that my friends and I got off the bus, changed to a bus, and then dragged our luggage step by step to get close to Lili, who shone dreamily in the night.
The reason why Lili is crystal clear is that it is different from the bright night scene of Nanxun, which has just said goodbye, and the colorful flowers of the fire tree and silver flowers in many market scenic spots, but it has a kind of intimacy with a small jasper. Maybe it's the fatigue of the journey. More likely, the first impression of Lili in the dark is too quiet and beautiful, right? The dream on Lili's first night was so sweet and fragrant. The next morning, my friends and I couldn't wait to enter the open scenic spot of the ancient town. Neat corridors and corridors paved with yellow and cyan strips and mixed with small gravel by the river are sparsely populated, except for some residents who do morning exercises or buy breakfast in the ancient town. Only five or six meters wide by the Yao River, the houses are scattered in the early morning light. For a time, they were magnificent, and for a time, they were humble. The tall and lush fatong camphor trees on both sides of the road block the sun. The reflection in the clear river is swaying with blue light, which makes it more quiet, sleepy like a sleeping beauty, and full of fresh and refined poetry. With the rising of the sun, the number of tourists who speak Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai accents is gradually increasing. However, compared with the number of tourists in the usual scenic spots, it still has obvious advantages of being relatively relaxed and moderate. It seems worthy of being called "Shanghai's private back garden".
Lili ancient town is like a small and exquisite handicraft. The silk, gold and silver, purple sand, including bamboo wares, on both sides of the Yangtze River reflect each other. The air is filled with hot fermented tofu, sometimes sweet and sometimes spicy, sometimes exciting, full of thick human fireworks. Not far from Guzhen Square, the memorial hall of Liu Yazi, a scholar of the Republic of China, and his inscription, as well as the inscription of Liao Chengzhi, Deng's calligraphy, are full of strong historical and cultural atmosphere. Wandering in the north and south sides of the east and west ends of the ancient town of Lili for only one hour, I walked past ancient bridges and new bridges, wide or narrow, long or short, enjoying the quaint folk customs for a while, and enjoying the modern customs for a while. Even the exquisite western Catholic church occasionally mixed in it seems to be integrated with the water and soil of the East. Lili's winding path around a few dry meters leads to a secluded place, but it embodies profound humanistic meaning, which makes people feel its agility and massiness, and also makes people feel its dream and ecstasy. It was rated as "Top Ten Towns in China".
I stayed in the ancient town of Lili for less than two days, but I was particularly impressed by the quaint and exquisite Daling Bridge area made by Miaoqiao and the dream of flowing water under the bridge. It not only gave me the natural materials for watercolor sketch creation, but also gave me different attempts for artistic expression innovation. Although the ancient town of Lili is just a quick glance, it is also a beautiful episode and unexpected harvest of this trip to the south of the Yangtze River.
Zhouzhuang
After many twists and turns from Lili to Zhouzhuang, Zhouzhuang has always been a dream of mine, so this trip to Jiangnan took it as the last stop of the finale. I came here at this time more than 20 years ago, but I only stayed for one night and hurried, leaving no watercolor sketch as a souvenir. In recent days, I have been somewhere else, but my heart is long gone: twenty years is not short, but it is not long, but it is a world of difference for a person to subvert a landscape. Will it be beyond recognition? Can it still dream? The closer I am to Zhouzhuang, the more excited I am, and the feeling of being afraid of leaving home is particularly strong. After arriving in Zhouzhuang in the afternoon, the completely urbanized towns and villages outside the scenic spots along the way have basically disappeared. It was only three or four o'clock when we arrived at the inn. Although I am eager to see the appearance of "the first water town in China", I am really worried that its interior has changed as much as its exterior. Forget it, forget it today. Let's work hard and stay calm, and we will reach the finish line in the morning.
In order to recharge your batteries, come out at the entrance of the scenic spot where you live at night. The Mid-Autumn Lantern Festival on both sides of the broad slate avenue will be resplendent, and the huge classical palace lanterns with their own characteristics will stand in two rows, which is spectacular. Although exquisite and elegant, full of cultural atmosphere, but it is difficult to get rid of the colorful fire tree silver flowers, in addition to lively, is a noisy pattern. Later, the night scene that came into view at Zhouzhuang Bridge was very different: on the wooden plank road on the bridge, two rows of symmetrical long blue crescent moons were dotted with silver starlight, which glowed faintly. The white lake under the bridge was hazy and silent, and Wang Yang was a vast garden. The lake is towering like a sea of clouds like Pagoda of Six Harmonies, accompanied by an 8. The 9-story-high huge moon is bright, transparent and soft, and Chang 'e Jade Rabbit dances with the atomization effect. My feet seem to wander in the clouds leading to the moon palace. I have never seen such a soft and bright moon, and I have never been so close to the stars. I can't help but be moved by it. The night outside Zhouzhuang is really charming.
Zhouzhuang has been blurred in my memory for a long time, but as soon as I enter the scenic spot, my memory will be restored if I get an electric shock and amnesia patients are stimulated by the outside world. I can vividly remember the scene 2 1 year ago: the corridor is still so narrow and dark, there are so many high and low bridges, there are so many smooth slates, there are so many stairs, and there are so many shops, restaurants and inns. Cruise ships on rivers extending in all directions are still rippling with Wunong soft language and Jiangnan minor, and there are still so many tourists rushing by ... This situation, which was too commercialized twenty years ago, is very uncomfortable. Because of this, I haven't thought about revisiting this place for many years. Now we can see that it has basically remained the same as it was then, and it has not been expanded. It has been completely unrecognizable. And it is not a small investment to repair the old as before. Now it's a little old, mottled and vicissitudes. Before entering the scenic spot, I saw the earth-shaking changes outside, but my anxiety about the scenic spot was basically eliminated. Zhouzhuang today is still as dazzling as when we first met. 20 years ago, I was used to the famous or unknown scenic spots in China. Zhouzhuang still maintains the amorous feelings of that year, and feels more simple, simple and charming. The heart that hung for many days finally fell to the ground, and several ancient towns reserved for this plan ran aground, and the rest of the time was left to Zhouzhuang, which was not enough. I immediately contacted the inn again and had to move to the ancient town scenic spot to get along.
The reason for camping in Zhouzhuang Scenic Area: First, the scenic area has not only been properly protected, but also the cultural quality has been improved. So we agreed with the painter to cancel the original backup plan and take Zhouzhuang as the last stop of this trip to the south of the Yangtze River. Second, sketching in the scenic spots outside is not conducive to the combination of life and sketching, and is not conducive to watercolor landscape creation. Third, I have heard about the unique night view of the scenic spot, but I don't care. After learning about the gorgeous light show in front of the archway outside the scenic spot and the shocking lighting special effects of Zhouzhuang Bridge and Haiyun Building, it is impossible not to look forward to its legendary night. Fourthly, on the way back to the inn outside after sketching Shuangqiao on the first day, I bumped into the ancient theater by mistake, just in time for the second-class actor Zhou Xin's Kunqu Opera "The West Chamber" on the stage. That kind of "water mill cavity" that seems to cry and complain makes me completely intoxicated with that kind of harmony. For the first time in my life, I watched Kunqu Opera, listened to Kunqu Opera and enjoyed such a high-level good drama in its birthplace. It's just wonderful. Don't say that there are so many reasons to move into the scenic spot, and try to integrate with the scenic spot as much as possible. Even if there is only one reason, it is worthy of nostalgia and closeness.
After living in a scenic spot, that kind of mentality and feeling will be different. Near the famous Shuangqiao Bridge is my favorite and unforgettable place. After crossing Shuangqiao, it is only a few steps away from the "Fei Yi family" in Zhouzhuang, a benefactor who is famous for his gratitude. Every time I draw a double bridge intermittently, I will go there to pay my respects. In Zhouzhuang Scenic Area, where land is so precious, there are few large residential courtyards. The flowers and trees in the courtyard exude a faint fragrance, and some empty houses display old objects such as the painter's statues, some manuscripts, used easels, picture albums, phonographs, small sofas, etc., which are full of vicissitudes of life and nostalgic feelings of singing. Every time I go to pay my respects, I will feel the infinite feelings of being young. Chen Yifei is not so much a popular artistic totem as a fairy tale, which is more suitable for us to guide the enlightenment teacher from the artist's spirit. Because of this, as I said earlier, the cultural quality of Zhouzhuang Town has improved a lot compared with the past.
Our inn is located between Shuangqiao and the ancient stage. After painting Shuangqiao or other scenic spots, we went back to the guest room. No matter at noon or at night, the lingering songs of the ancient stage can always reach our room on the second floor vaguely, so we can't help singing along, and the fatigue of sketching is completely eliminated. The ancient stage is where we punch in for a walk every night. Listening to a few pieces of Yue Opera, Tin Opera and Kunqu Opera that we can and can't understand, and enjoying the actors' styles on the antique stage with carved beams and painted buildings, is really a kind of transcendence and ecstasy, like a fairy. If you want to feel the human feelings of people in different places, nothing is more direct, faster and deeper than listening to their local operas. Zhouzhuang has seen and listened to more dramas these days than all the dramas he has seen and listened to before. Elegant tones on the stage, soft Jiangnan tunes accompanied by warblers sway the boatswain in the river, and the lingering in Zhouzhuang air is refreshing and touching. Then you will really understand why Suzhou and Hangzhou in the south of the Yangtze River are known as "paradise on earth".
In late autumn, it was already dark in the south of the Yangtze River, and it was dark at five o'clock in the afternoon. Before the sketch was finished, street lamps and some landscape lights lit up and began to flicker. After hastily sorting out the painting tools on the floor, there are lights everywhere, which makes people unconsciously enter another dreamlike Zhouzhuang: the cornices and arches of shops and houses in the dance hall. Small bridges and small bridges are lined with running water cruise ships, flowers and trees swaying in various postures. Under the background of colorful outline landscape lights on the roadside and riverside corners, it is soft, clear, distant and friendly, and it makes people feel a little ecstatic. From time to time, I met three or five girls dressed in ancient costumes, wearing high buns and holding small palace lanterns or apprentices, or resting or complaining or laughing and chatting. Deep and narrow alleys, narrow corridors, rows of people who often pass by, all holding flashing tassel umbrellas, dragging elegant and light blue fluorescent lanterns and wearing flashing colorful long-strip pendants. They are jade-faced and red-lipped, quiet and carefree, just like Youlong walking alone, just like fairies coming down to earth. A crescent moon hangs high in the lonely sky of Starlight Glimmer, and the air is filled with songs, the sound of oars and the soft gasps of Wu Nong. In the meantime, how can we not really feel that time goes backwards through time and space? Why not let people walk into the dream of ancient prosperous wuyue? The night in Zhouzhuang is so beautiful. The beauty lies in the quiet, bitter, soft and picturesque world.
postscript
In October and autumn, due to the epidemic situation, Nanxun Lili Zhouzhuang's long-awaited and hesitant watercolor painting was resolutely put into practice. For half a month, running all the way stayed willful. I am an idealist, but I never dare to slack off and pick up. It can be said that it is a free, compact, romantic and relaxed trip to the south of the Yangtze River. The natural beauty of Nanxun, the exquisiteness of Lili, and the picturesque charm of Zhouzhuang, such as dew and spring breeze, are refreshing and nourishing the soul. Jiangnan has also been there several times, but almost all of them come and go in a hurry. This trip to the ancient water town stopped. I live slowly, indulge myself, and weave colorful clouds and dreams while enjoying. Unforgettable ancient town, unforgettable water town, unforgettable dreamlike clouds, faint wind, faint waves and faint shadows in Jiangnan.
The vitality of Jiangnan water town is in natural harmony with the incisiveness of watercolor painting, and Jiangnan watercolor painting is also the most appropriate and perfect fusion of form and content. Isn't the exquisite architecture and gentle charm of Jiangnan the soul and spirit that watercolor painting art is striving for? Hundreds of buildings in Nanxun, Miaoqiao Lane in Lili and Shuanghui Bridge in Zhouzhuang are the most unforgettable places in my watercolor painting Jiangnan, which seems to be my spiritual home and my dream destination. I've been looking for them, and they seem to have been waiting for me. Isn't this familiarity and familiarity a karma, a tacit understanding? Isn't it a kind of luck and a blessing to find and touch it in the vast sea of people? Thanks to Jiangnan, it once again gave me artistic and aesthetic edification and nourishment. Thanks to Jiangnan, it once again gave me the caress and comfort of spirit and soul.
2020.11.14. Evening