However, when there is more and more money, people begin to worship money blindly and make quick money. The whole society is full of enjoyment and worship of money.
Gorgeous costumes, all-night parties, hysterical Charleston dancing, money-addicted life and high-profile gorgeous modeling in the film are all projections of the characters' personalities and emotions in the original work.
Prada, Miu Miu and other brands specially designed more than 40 sets of costumes for the female characters in the play, which restored the charm and spring of the girls with baffles.
Clothing culture after World War I
After the First World War, the control of the class system on both sides of the Atlantic declined, feminist culture spread widely, and women showed a brand-new sense of freedom and self-expression. Women will wear corresponding clothes or participate in different activities during the day.
During the day, they wear dresses, and at night, they wear tassels, sequins and pearls to shuttle through various parties, which fascinates you and tempts you to fall.
Girls cut their hair short, and the exquisite and time-consuming hairstyle before the war was abandoned, and bob became popular. All this shows that the 1920s was an era of freedom and liberation.
The design of clothing has become more practical, the skirt is getting shorter and shorter, the ankle is exposed, the waist line moves down to the hip line, the chest and buttocks are deliberately flattened, and the visual center is transferred to the buttocks, and the appearance is "tubular". The Valve was sought after by urban beauties at that time.
The starry twenties
Gabrielle Chanel
When it comes to the 1920s, Chanel has to be mentioned. Gabrielle Chanel fully grasped the pulse of the new era and timely launched a knitted fabric suit (unprecedented use of wool knitted fabrics used by men as underwear for women's wear at that time).
The clothes she designed for women were convenient and simple, which set off a fashion revolution. 1 9261June1day, Gabrielle Chanel first published the first little black dress in a fashion magazine. The American version of VOGUE dubbed it "Ford dress", which indicates that it will be as popular all over the world as Ford cars.
We often say that Ms. Chanel caught the pulse of the times and created a little black dress, but it was not the times that made Chanel. After experiencing the madness in Europe after World War I, she fell into a more depressing economic depression. At that time, black cloth was the cheapest cloth, and the simplicity of the little black dress also complied with the decline of the times.
This indicates a new fashion trend in Paris, and black was once considered as simple and plain wisdom. As Chanel said at that time: "Fashion doesn't just stay in clothes, it permeates the air, it is a way of thinking, a way of life, and everything that is happening around."
Paul Poiret
In its heyday, paul poiret remained silent until now. His design was very revolutionary at that time, and he was also a pioneer designer to liberate women's fashion.
Paul poiret and paul poiret boldly created many first cases in fashion history. At that time, women dressed in curves for beauty. He separated women from the waist and introduced a Greek-style clothes with high waist, which contributed to a lighter and simpler new outline, which was undoubtedly a huge blow to the western design thinking that emphasized three-dimensional precision tailoring at that time.
He improved women's clothing and designed the government line. This dress is made of silk, and the waist line is raised below the chest. With a tulle coat, the skirt naturally hangs to the ground and is light and elegant.
Paul poiret has created many firsts in fashion history.
Paul poiret likes oriental style. He was the first designer who tried to integrate oriental style into fashion design. Indian men's headscarves, as a source of inspiration, soon replaced top hats after being introduced by paul poiret's replica design. These headscarves are inlaid with gorgeous gems, and everyone is immersed in exotic costumes.
Ballets russes's performance "Arabian Nights" led by Sergei Diaghiliev is the source of many design inspirations for Bolie.
With this as the theme, he held a theme party "One Thousand and Two Nights" to entertain the upper class. At the party, he and his wife Dennis dressed up as the king of the Sultanate and his sweetheart in the story. All the guests attending the party are required to wear Persian costumes, which is probably the prototype of modern masquerade and MET GALA.
He also designs pants for women. The wearing method of lampshade skirt with Turkish bloomers was not recognized by the society at that time, but it laid the foundation for the development of modern panty.
The combination of pleated bloomers and tight belts not only shows the figure but also facilitates exercise, which is sought after by many women. But it was also strongly condemned by Pope Beu X.
Although paul poiret has always advocated the liberation of the body, his other masterpiece, The Staggering Skirt, greatly restricted women's legs, and the design was tightened from below the knee, making it difficult for women to walk.
This kind of staggered skirt was warmly sought after at that time, and many people did not hesitate to use cloth leggings to conform to this fashion. But this kind of single product has only been popular for a while, and it has never returned to the fashion stage.
Mariano Fortuny
When it comes to pleats, Issey Miyake Issey Miyake may be your first thought, but the Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny was the first person to make pleated skirts. These wonderful pleats are still a mystery, and no one knows exactly how they are made.
Mariano Fortuny has been immersed in works of art, various cultural relics and textiles since he was a child. He has an extraordinary talent for art, but he seems unwilling to stop at painting and design. Sculpture, invention, architecture and lighting are all his hobbies, and he has 22 inventions and patents in his life.
Mariano Fortuny's exaggerated design formed his unique style. Tradition, art and fabric skills are integrated in his works, and Delphos long skirt is his most famous masterpiece.
Delphos dress was inspired by the pleated dress in ancient Greece. The name Delfos is not only the place name of Greece, but also the name of the son of the Greek god Apollo.
Take silk as raw material,
The special folds sewn by hand make the fabric elastic.
So simple and smooth clothes can be close to the outline of the body.
The hem and sleeves are decorated with Venice's famous glass beads.
Elegant and meaningful at the same time, it also makes silk more elegant and more drape.
Both the shoulder strap and the tight chest position are adjusted with built-in drawstrings.
Delphos's skirts are all the same size.
The drawstring can be easily fitted according to the wearer's figure.
Delphos long skirts can be twisted into small balls and put in boxes. The skirt itself is very light and very easy to keep. Miraculously, the Delphos long skirt will not be deformed after being twisted, but it will help to maintain the natural wrinkle texture of the clothes.
Since Delphos was born in 1909.
In addition to the variety of colors, patterns and fabrics
Its outline has remained basically unchanged for 40 years.
Mariano Fortuny didn't leave many fashion works, and he himself would like to be remembered as a painter, but he achieved the classic design of Delphos pleated skirt. Even today, pleated skirt is still a unique and attractive fashion item.
Unfortunately, every year after Mariano Fortuny 1949 died.
Because the secret of making Delphos folds has not been passed down.
It had to stop production.
With the development of textile technology
Brands like Issey Miyake and Valentino.
Textiles with similar appearance are also made of synthetic fibers.
However, this silk pleating technology has not revived.
Madeleine vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet's name was equivalent to high fashion at that time. She created a new way of clothing cutting-diagonal cutting, which is still used by many brands, such as Issey Miyake, jean paul gaultier, vivienne westwood and alexander mcqueen.
Madeleine Vionnet's diagonal cutting method is to cut the fabric texture horizontally, not along the texture. Facing the textured fabric, the patterned fabric is turned over to create an inclined effect, which maximizes the elasticity and flexibility of the fabric and is more suitable for physical exercise. Woven fabrics such as silk are cut at a 45-degree angle, which makes the fabrics hang and fold into arc folds. By using its natural drooping characteristics, the clothes are as light as the second skin of the body, and the graceful posture of women is outlined.
On the basis of oblique cutting, Madeleine Viognie also created backless evening dresses, monk collars and beveled petal skirts, which were famous at that time. The use of tendril yarn and silk makes the overall effect of clothing more elegant and creates a brand-new female structure.
Madeleine Vionnet studied tailoring at the age of 12, and was proficient in the fine craftsmanship inherited from sewing fine underwear. 190 1 year, Vionnet returned to Paris to work for Carlo Sisters. She gave up the traditional cutting technology and directly cut, positioned and cut with a half-yard mannequin.
John galliano, Issey Miyake, punk godmother and others are all influenced by her works.
Christian dior commented on her: "No one can make clothes better than Vionnet."
Jean Patou
"Fashion is not an addition and subtraction algorithm of an engineering system. It is an existence that will bring thousands of influences to life. Fashion is a thing full of vitality and vitality, and every minute of every day is rapidly evolving and developing. " -Jean Patu
Speaking of haute couture, Jean Patou must have a name. He was a charming gentleman in the Parisian fashion circle in the 1920s, and the design genius jean paul gaultier was his assistant. And he was the leader of haute couture in that era.
Jean Patou may know women better than women themselves. He has the most unique understanding of women's beauty and women's desire for clothes, which makes his design capture women's hearts and push his fashion house to the peak of the trend.
Jean Patou has brought a different trend to the clothing industry. He put sportswear on the fashion stage. Sportswear is designed for different sports, such as polo, tennis and golf, and knitted fabrics with good elasticity and breathing performance are used in sportswear.
Jean Patou liberated women from heavy and multi-layered sportswear and introduced the concept of "casual wear", which is a sleeveless jumpsuit with bare legs.
From the fashion point of view, it is hard to say whether the turbulent 1920s created great designers or extraordinary designers inherited the uneasiness of this era.
Absolutely beautiful baffle
In the 1920s, people called a new generation of independent young girls "Flapper", and Flapper sneered at the traditional concept of women. They are independent and have a passion for pleasure. Wearing a straight dress, wearing Bob's head, bling, heavy makeup, tobacco, spirits, jazz ... "Valve" was sought after by urban beauty at that time.
Characteristics of "trap" style
Ziller Bob's head
Exaggerated smoky makeup
Low waist "H" straight dress
Bell-shaped Korosh hat
This trend began to spread in France, and more and more women like to wear straight dresses that are easy to move and dance to the rhythm of jazz-of course, skirts should be decorated with sequins and feathers, just like the original meaning of the word flapper: a bird that has just learned to fly.
In addition, there is the "Gehlsen Slave Style" created by Jean Pato, Chanel and Edward. It is also favored by urban beauty. People call strong women in the workplace who wear short skirts and short hair "Gehlsen slaves". Women have ear-length short hair, and at the same time, a bell-shaped bonnet with deep hat mountain-"Koroche" hat is popular. The bell-shaped hat was invented by the famous French designer Caroline Reboux in 1908. The bell hat can easily show the elegance and intellectuality of urban beauty.
George Barbier is the chief painter of French Vouge cover, and he has his own unique decorative graphic composition style. His fashion illustrations were published in major print magazines at that time. In George Barbier's paintings, both men and women wear gorgeous banquet costumes, and both costume design and screen ostentation are full of intriguing details.
Click to read: "VOGUE" Centennial Illustrator Award, which transcends the aesthetics of the times.
The painting No Fire, No Smoke by Russell Patterson, an American painter, perfectly fits the baffle style of the 1920s.
Busy with work during the day and attending parties at night, women are free to switch between diligence and laziness, reality and dreams, and declare their independence to the world with absolute confidence.
The following song "Angry Tango" was written by George Barbier. The picture depicts the tango dance that the upper class was keen on at that time.
Tango was very popular in Paris in the 19 10-20' s. Tango entered the banquet halls and clubs of the upper class, and everyone was dancing tango. Flapper was also a tango dress.
go back to the past
On August 29th, 2020, we went back to the past in the 1920s in the Mi's Western Restaurant on the Bund of Mongolia. The distance 1920 is exactly one hundred years.
In the change of light and shadow, in the change of cups, in the blurred eyes, we feel the magical twenties.
In the words of Fitzgerald, the author of The Great Gatsby:
"1920s is an era of miracles, an era of art, an era of spending money like water, and an era full of ridicule. At that time, everything seemed rosy and romantic in front of our young eyes. "
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