More than 100 kilometers of dusty Panshan Road, Shantou Road turned the last corner and suddenly put on a whole landscape.
The high places are Yakling and Shimenguan, which stretch between mountain roads and terraces. Suddenly, I saw a huge stone extending into the middle of the river like an island. The village on the boulder is like a jade belt, and the Jinsha River is extremely quiet.
The pictures in Jinsha River are provided by the author.
The road of Baoshan Stone Town is really not easy, but it would be too wronged to say that there is no development. Compared with more than ten years ago, the northern part of Lijiang has bid farewell to dirt roads and tractor roads in the first half of the year.
From Lijiang River to Yinming Town, it is a fairly flat Panshan Road, but there are too many bends. A series of ridges pass through the terraced fields, along the road to the west, and the heights are endless snow peaks. From Yulong to Baja, the scenery is picturesque.
Yulong Snow Mountain passing by on the mountain road
From the song to the north, the road gets narrower and narrower, and it is quite difficult to meet the opposite car. Many road sections have not been completely repaired, and the stumbling dirt road can't be opened for nearly two hours. /kloc-it takes more than four hours to drive more than 0/30 kilometers, so it is difficult to drive by car and there are few buses. These factors set a natural threshold for Baoshan Stone City, and the village was quiet and leisurely.
Shitoucheng south gate
Baoshan Stone City has two gates, north and south. The south gate is very high, and now there is a square that villagers gather to dance after dinner every day. The lower part of the north gate is downward, and you can walk directly to the Jinsha River through the terraced fields. Around the Stone City, a stone wall more than ten feet high was built by the cliff. When the gate is closed, it is as solid as gold.
Inside the south gate of Shitoucheng
Now, in order to facilitate sightseeing, Stone Town has dug a new sightseeing trail, but the narrowest hill is still the dirt stone steps, which is very dangerous to walk. The local Naxi grandmother can carry a hoe lightly because she is used to going up and down the farmland every day.
Shitoucheng West Outer Trail
"History of the Yuan Dynasty, Geography" records that "Baoshan Prefecture is in the east of the snow-capped mountains, Lijiang is in the west, and it is surrounded on three sides. In the past, people lived in it. It first moved here from the building and lived here for more than 20 lifetimes. " Kublai Khan pushed forward the "more than 20 lifetimes" from 1253, which lasted for 30 years and traced back more than 600 years. Just at the turn of Sui and Tang Dynasties, a family of "Yao and Man", that is, the Mosuo people of Naxi nationality, migrated from "Loutou", that is, near Lugu Lake in Ninglang, yongningzhen.
What happened to Lugu Lake in Ninglang at the turn of Sui and Tang Dynasties? Ninglang is also a livable plateau with beautiful scenery. Why did the Naxi people move to Baoshan Stone Town? There is only this short sentence in yuan dynasty history, and the source of the details of Baoshan Stone Town before the Yuan Dynasty people set foot on the territory is completely unknown.
The word "Yuan Du Pi Cang" also appeared in the world's first couplet in Daguanlou, Kunming (180), which highly summarized Yunnan's golden moment in Yuan history, that is, Kublai Khan, Yuan Shizu, took a "Pi Cang" (sheepskin raft) to leap over the ferry at the edge of Jinsha River, more than ten kilometers north of Shishen, Baoshan.
Stone city
There are hundreds of kilometers of mountains and deep valleys along the way. Although the scenery is infinite, it is also dangerous step by step. If you want to walk to Baoshan Stone Town alive, no one will be safe. After a long bumpy road, you will find a boulder in the middle of the road. What kind of mood is it?
Canyon depth
Geographical Records of Yuan History records the second half sentence of Baoshan House: "The ancestors collected Dali, gathered the river from the side, from Luobang to Luosi, surrounded by Dakui and other villages, with toast, and their villages were called Chahan Hulu Khan. In the 14th year of Zhiyuan, Baoshan County was established in seven places, and it was promoted to state in the 16th year.
How did the Yuan Army stationed in Shicheng, Baoshan, get the "chief possessed"? Did it rush into the city under the natural barrier? -It's hard to imagine from the terrain, or is it inside? Compared with the many bends and the roaring first bay in the world I have seen before, the Jinsha River here in Shicheng is indeed an excellent place to cross the river. Such a quiet river section is really suitable for crossing and swimming.
Shitoucheng visual sense
There are many far-fetched explanations that will tell you that in Stone Town, "rock drilling is a canal, stone carving is a jar, and all kinds of daily necessities are stones made from local materials", but the only stone bed and stove that can be found now is one near Chengtou, and it has a strong display nature. The door panel specifically reads "Visit the stone bed and stone stove inside", and the chisel marks look suspicious. In fact, hundreds of families who have lived on this whole boulder for more than 1000 years are spectacular in themselves, and there is really no need to be far-fetched
The winding road into the city, at first glance, was carved directly on the stone in the distant years. Smooth enough, flat enough, not easy to walk. Only the locals born in it can walk on the ground. In the narrowest place, only two people can lean sideways carefully and make mistakes, but in the widest place, two horses are parallel. Now, we can only walk into the city, and no car can get in. Some people sympathize with the luggage of distant guests and lead horses to help with the bags.
The road of Stone Town
On the stone road, there are several horseshoe tread marks, most of which are difficult to see clearly. Horse manure can be seen everywhere, but once you get used to it, no one will deliberately clean it up. In recent years, the villages in Lijiang, Dali have developed rapidly in building roads and bridges. Like Stone Town, there are primitive trails, and there are fewer and fewer villages full of pigsty and horse manure.
Residential buildings in Stone Town
The house is connected to the house, and this pigsty is facing the door of that house. The roof of the house faces the neighbor's house, and every inch of space in the extremely compact village has been fully utilized.
The step drop of tens of centimeters is enough to build a henhouse, and the position of pigsty has also innovatively appeared in many unexpected corners. It's hypocritical to chisel stone crops now. Besides wood, the most convenient thing is cement. No matter how limited the space is, you can always build a pigsty enough for yourself. The water heater storage bucket is also installed on the high roof. Walking in the city is full of simple wisdom.
Residential buildings in Stone Town
In recent years, Baoshan Stone Town has quietly flourished among hikers. There were only two inns more than ten years ago, but now there are homestays everywhere. There are several hiking routes from the north gate to the ferry crossing Taiziguan, and there are several caves in the mountains, all of which are good places for exploration.
Signboard of Shitoucheng Inn
There are many cruise projects at the Yamashita Ferry Terminal, and you can travel to and from Prince Guan and Genandu Bridge in one day by boat, with no effort. Some people are more adventurous. It is said that they can find a private boat, return to Lugu Lake along the river, and walk on the water between the mountains and canyons more than 100. It is also a wonderful scenery.
However, the most comfortable experience of Stone Town has to be quiet for a few days. Several homestays here have platforms facing the canyon. The canyon with a drop of more than 2000 meters is endless, from the rock wall at the top of the mountain to the terraced fields halfway up the mountain, from the people in the mountains to the rivers at the bottom of the valley. In the morning, I watch the sunshine slanting into the valley, and in the evening, I watch the people returning from plowing with hoes.
Stone Town, where roads are built all the year round, has no express delivery. All homestays and inns are operated on a small scale, with three or five rooms, and they rely on their own farming and raising livestock to entertain guests. Naxi people cook delicious food, with their own preserved bacon, melon tips picked in their own fields and fresh local flavor.
In the evening, you might as well go to Nanmen Square by moonlight and join the local dance team. Naxi people dance beautifully, shoulder to shoulder, arm in arm, shoulder to shoulder, with four steps in neat steps, and the team jumps clockwise in circles.
Shi tou cheng Naxi dance
Night view of Stone Town
There is a tacit understanding and harmony between people, as close as a house in Stone City. The end of the line is in a hurry. You look like a foreigner. If you change a tune, you will change your rhythm. Foreigners dancing with you will inevitably start to study repeatedly, often with their left feet on the back of their right feet. The locals are used to just laughing, and their unpretentious dance steps are as calm as this city. Waiting for the night dance, every family lights up, and the Milky Way falls in the valley, which is the "market in the sky".
Proofreading: Zhang Yan