When I climbed up to the Yishuang Pavilion and looked at the mountains across the river, I felt the refreshing air coming from the west, and my heart was empty; under the Gui Fang Pavilion, the white turtles were still playing in the water; in the Liuxian Pavilion, "The Picture of Li Lu" and Dongpo Lao The plum blossoms are alive; the window of Poxian Pavilion overlooks the river, the stone bed and pillows are still there, and the sound of Su Zi is especially heard; visiting the Xuetang can tell you the footprints of Dongpo's hard work in the past, and you can taste "the Yangtze River surrounds the pavilion to know the beauty of fish, and the good bamboos are connected to the mountains" The infinite meaning of "feeling the fragrance of bamboo shoots"; leaning on the Qixia Tower and leaning on the railing, you can see the river stretching to the sky and the distant mountains. You can't see the endless scenery, and you can't describe the countless emotions.
The rolling Yangtze River carries the wind and rain, passes through the mountain gorge, and exits the Dongting. It is a majestic journey with beautiful scenery and infinite scenery. When it reaches Huanggang City, the seat of ancient Huangzhou in the middle and lower reaches of Hubei Province, it reaches the cultural level. The ultimate. Why do you say this? Because there is a red cliff on the east slope of Huangzhou.
In the Han cultural circle, who is a scholar who doesn’t know about Huangzhou Chibi? More than 900 years ago, Su Dongpo, a great writer in the Song Dynasty, was demoted to Huangzhou and served as deputy envoy of Tuanlian due to the Wutai Poetry Case. Su Shi stayed in Huangzhou for four years and left behind the world-famous "One Word and Two Fu". The lyrics are "Nian Nujiao·Chibi Nostalgia", and the poems are "Former Chibi Fu" and "Later Chibi Fu". Huangzhou Red Cliff has therefore become a world-famous cultural attraction.
Huangzhou is located on the north bank of the beautiful middle reaches of the Yangtze River. The Dabie Mountains and the Yangtze River form an angle here, and the five rivers in the territory (Jiushui, Doushui, Bashui, Xishui, and Qishui) flow westward, and Huangzhou is located between the Bashui and Xishui. The dancing nuns return to the wind and thousands of years of sedimentation form a majestic and unique cultural landscape along the Wushui River. For thousands of years, Ba culture and Chu culture have been perfectly combined in this land, and Confucian culture in the north and Lao-Zhuang culture in the south have been perfectly combined. The blood of the warriors is filled with the elegance of the literati; for thousands of years, Huangzhou has had outstanding people and talents, including Bi Sheng, the inventor of movable type printing in the Song Dynasty, Li Shizhen, the medical sage in the Ming Dynasty, Cheng Hao and Cheng Yi, the founders of Neo-Confucianism, The famous scholar Hu Feng, the economist Wang Yanan, the patriotic poet and democracy fighter Wen Yiduo, the master of traditional Chinese culture Huang Kan, the geologist Li Siguang, the older generation of proletarian revolutionaries Dong Biwu, Chen Tanqiu, Li Xiannian and other famous figures were all born in this magical place. on the land. When Su Dongpo was demoted to Huangzhou, he once said with deep feeling that there were many strange people in Huangzhou since ancient times. What's the difference? The difference lies in the blood, the difference lies in the unyielding, the difference lies in the creation, the difference lies in the dispersion and unrestrainedness. When approaching Chibi in Huangzhou and Su Dongpo, the first thing that moves people is these things that are rippling in the wind, invisible and intangible.
Spring is ripe in May and summer is ripe. Visiting Dongpo Red Cliff in this season is particularly interesting. Red Cliff is outside the ancient city of Huangzhou, going down from the Qingyuan Gate of the ancient city of Huangzhou. The city is an ancient city, the gate is an ancient gate, the bricks are ancient blue bricks, and the stone is ancient red stone. The city gate is open and sprinkled with water. Today's sunshine. Whether it is blue bricks or red stones, they are all covered with moss, as if they were traces of time, making people suddenly feel nostalgic for the past.
The ancient Red Cliff located on the north bank of the Yangtze River has long been turned into a park. Looking from a distance, you can see towering ancient trees and the river beach is wider than the wild, forming a scene of thousands of feet of broken shore. More than 900 years ago, the water of the Yangtze River flowed under its banks. At that time, there was a scene where the mountains were high and the moon was small. Now, the Yangtze River withdraws five miles away, leaving a vast river beach. The hard-working Huangzhou people turned the river beach into a square, dug canals to divert water, surrounded Red Cliff, and built numerous antique buildings on the square. As a result, a unique scenic spot has been formed here, with mountains reaching up to the mountains and water reaching down below. The original Red Cliff has become a garden within a garden. Of course, all this is thanks to Su Dongpo and Chibi.
There is a statue of Su Dongpo standing in the park. On the tall marble base, the clothes of a generation of literary giants are fluttering, and his eyes are staring at the rolling Yangtze River. The statue has both spiritual and physical features, complementing the tall ancient city of Huangzhou.
Su Shi was demoted to Huangzhou, and one city and one mountain had a great influence on his literature and life. The first city is the Queen City. This city was originally the capital of the ancient Huang Kingdom during the Eastern Zhou Dynasty. It was later destroyed by the increasingly powerful Chu State in the south of the Yangtze River. When the King of Chu was happy, he gave the city to his daughter, named Queen. city. Queen City is the best-preserved ancient city site of the Eastern Zhou Dynasty in the country. The city is rectangular, four miles long from north to south, and one mile wide from east to west. The surrounding city walls are basically well preserved, and the beacon towers at the four corners of the city are still there.
Many historical relics from the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period to the Jin Dynasty have been excavated around the Queen City, including bronzes and bronze swords from the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, nine-serial lanterns and plum blossom bronze mirrors from the Eastern Han Dynasty. Su Dongpo lived in Huangzhou for four years, and for three of those years, he made an appointment with his friends to travel to the Queen City on the twentieth day of the first lunar month of each year, thus leaving behind three poems. The first poem was written on the twentieth day of the first month of the fourth year of Yuanfeng, when he first arrived in Huangzhou:
The spring breeze did not go out for ten days, and I did not know that the rivers and willows had shaken the village. When I heard about the ice valley, it was all green and there were no burn marks.
Several acres of desolate garden allow me to stay, and half a bottle of turbid wine is waiting for you to warm it up. Last year, today on Guanshan Road, the plum blossoms were dying in the drizzle.
The second poem was written on the twentieth day of the first lunar month of the fifth year of Yuanfeng:
The east wind refused to enter the east gate, and even went to find Sui Village. People are like Qiu Hong and there are letters, and things are like spring dreams without leaving a trace.
Three glasses of Jiangcheng liquor, the wild old man smiled warmly. We have agreed to hold this meeting every year, so there is no need for old friends to summon their souls.
The third poem was written on the twentieth day of the first month of the sixth year of Yuanfeng:
Surrounded by mountains and rivers, I am in a village at the end of the Yangtze River. Five acres of desolate garden allow me to stay, and I will sweep away the traces of the old nest again.
Not only are I used to seeing sand gulls, but I already feel that I have been fishing for Shiwen more often. I have made an appointment with the east wind in the future, and the faint fragrance returns to the soul of the jade plum first.
It can be read from the poem that when he first arrived in Huangzhou, Su Dongpo was still frightened by the political persecution he had just encountered. But once he settled in, he integrated into the landscape and people's life in Huangzhou, and his nature was open-minded. The poet soon became content with the situation, and began to discover and enjoy the pure beauty of Huangzhou's landscape with his eyes that were good at capturing beauty and fun. He even expressed his intention: "We have agreed to meet here every year, so there is no need for old friends to call upon their souls."
The first mountain is Chibi Mountain, which has been turned into Dongpo Chibi Park. When Su Dongpo was demoted to Huangzhou, the ancient city of Huangzhou, where the Huangzhou government was located, was still some distance from Chibi on the riverside. Su Dongpo often went out of the city to visit Chibi. At that time, Chibi was called Chibiji, a solitary mountain standing beside the river. Chibiji was praised by the world for its majestic and magnificent natural landscape more than 2,000 years ago, which was recorded in the "Shui Jing" of the Han Chinese Sangqin. In the early years of the Western Jin Dynasty, Kuai En, known as General Longxiang, built the Hengjiang Pavilion here, and later generations added more. By the Northern Song Dynasty, the buildings on Red Cliff were already "three or four stories near the river, one after another reaching the top of the city". During the Tang and Song Dynasties, great poets such as Li Bai, Du Fu, Du Mu, Wang Anshi, Fan Chengda, Xin Qiji, Lu You, etc. all visited Red Cliff and wrote their own poems, leaving behind famous chapters such as "Red Cliff" and "The Story of Huangzhou Bamboo Tower". Therefore, Red Cliff His reputation is growing day by day. However, it was the unparalleled genius Su Dongpo who really made Huangzhou Chibi a cultural landscape famous both at home and abroad. Here, Su Dongpo wrote the eternal masterpiece "Er Fu" and many excellent poems. The article was so famous that later generations even connected the author's name with Chibi, and that famous battle in history The real place where it happened gradually faded from the memory of future generations. During the Southern Song Dynasty, some people connected Su Shi with Red Cliff and called it Dongpo Red Cliff. When Red Cliff was rebuilt in the late Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, Guo Chaozuo, then the magistrate of Huangzhou, inscribed the name "Dongpo Red Cliff" on the forehead. It can be seen that landscape is just the stage of life. The stage leaves its glory because of people, and the landscape leaves culture and spirit because of people. People are the stamps of mountains and rivers. People leave cultural and spiritual imprints on mountains and rivers. Only mountains and rivers can be stamped through the ages.
Chibi has experienced several fire disasters, and most of the existing buildings were built during the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty. Not long after entering the park gate, you will see towering red rocks and towering trees and bamboos. Climbing up the stairs and passing an ancient gate, you will reach the world-famous Red Cliff on the east slope. It is backed by mountains and faces the surging Yangtze River. It has towers, pavilions and winding paths leading to secluded areas, and the scenery changes with each step. It is a typical Jiangnan garden scenery. Climb the tower and look out into the distance, and you will have a picturesque panoramic view of the country.
The most important attraction in Red Cliff is the Erfu Hall, where the "Previous Red Cliff Fu" and "Later Red Cliff Fu" are engraved. Erfutang is an antique wooden building, facing the river, with blue brick paving and open air. The wooden wall in the middle of the hall is about two feet high and as wide as the hall. It has "Ode to the Former Red Cliff" engraved on the front and "Ode to the Later Red Cliff" engraved on the back. The former Chibi Fu was written by Cheng Zhizhen of the Qing Dynasty. The whole text is in regular script. The writing shows skill and every word shows spirit. The "Hou Chibi Fu" on the back is a combination of Han Li and Wei stele, which is bold, handsome, vigorous and powerful. The flat forehead of Erfu Hall was inscribed by Li Hongzhang of the Qing Dynasty, and the couplets in front of the hall were written by Huang Xing, the leader of the Revolution of 1911.
The Erfu Hall has a good atmosphere, chanting in the wind is the best scene in life. "...The breeze is blowing slowly, and the water is sluggish. I raise my wine to the guests, recite the poem of the bright moon, and sing the graceful chapter. A little while ago, the moon appeared above the east mountain, wandering among the bullfights. White dew crossed the river, and the water was shining. Connecting to the sky, even a reed is like a vast expanse of sky, so vast that it seems to be riding on the wind without knowing where to stop; fluttering like being left alone in the world, emerging into immortality..." "The river flows. There is a sound, and the shore is broken thousands of feet. The sun and the moon are as old as the sun, but the mountains and rivers can no longer be recognized..." One word and two poems vividly express the highest realm of life pursued by Su Dongpo - the Tao of Zhuang Chan.
In fact, this state of life is a manifestation of Su Dongpo's true maturity of personality after experiencing political disaster, spiritual death and painful reflection. Persecution, loneliness and hardship in material life made Su Dongpo finally reborn, and his artistic talent was distilled and sublimated. As a result, we read such a comprehensive and noble text that is "mellow but not greasy", "bright but not dazzling", "tall but not steep":
"The great river goes eastward, and the waves flow." To the west of the ancient fortress, there is the red cliff of Zhou Lang of the Three Kingdoms. Rocks pierce the sky, the waves crack the shore, and thousands of piles of snow are rolled up..."
No wonder Yu Qiuyu. Saying "one word and two poems" is a common code used by Chinese literati, and it can be understood with just one click. Reading it today, "Niannujiao·Chibi Nostalgia" can still stir up thousands of emotions in those who come after it, and draw out endless thoughts.
Walking all the way, I felt that there was scenery and culture everywhere. More than ten steps southwest of Erfu Hall is the Fengjiang Pavilion, which means "a bottle returns the moon on the Fengjiang River" by Su Zi. Inside the pavilion are the stone carvings and manuscripts of "Ode to the Former Red Cliff" copied by Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty and copied by the great calligrapher Zhao Mengye of the Yuan Dynasty. Stone carvings of celebrities from past dynasties. On the west side of the pavilion stands Poxian Pavilion, which contains Su Shi's cursive poems "Niannujiao·Chibi Nostalgia" and the poem "Mantingfang·Returning to Come" written when bidding farewell to Huangzhou, as well as hand-painted pictures of plum blossoms and longevity stars. Portraits and stone carvings such as "Dongpo Laomei" sketched by Guo Fengyi, the prefect of Huangzhou in the Qing Dynasty. More than ten steps west of Poxian Pavilion is Sleeping Fairy Pavilion. It is said that Su Shi once slept here drunk when he and his friends visited Red Cliff. The stone bed and pillows in the pavilion are still there. To the east of Erfu Hall is the Liuxian Pavilion. Inside the pavilion are the stone carvings of "Dongpo Lilu Tutu" and the tombstone written by Su Shi for his wet nurse Ren Cailian. There are also modern celebrities' paintings "Red Cliff Rafting Picture" and the late Qing Dynasty Yang Shoujing's "Liu Xian Pavilion". Stone carving. About ten steps east of Liuxian Pavilion is the Stele Pavilion, which is embedded with 108 stone carvings written by Su Shi and Yang Shoujing's "Jingsu Garden Tie", which is called a rare treasure. Visiting Xuetang can reveal the footprints of Dongpo's hard work in the past, and enjoy the wonderful experience of "winding around the pavilion on the Yangtze River to know the beauty of fish, and the mountains with good bamboos to feel the fragrance of bamboo shoots"...
The Qixia Tower, with a plaque inscribed by Mao Dun, is located at the highest point of Chibiji. It is four stories high, with cornices and red-coated tiles. Leaning on the railing and looking into the distance, you can see the river stretching to the sky, the distant mountains, and the endless scenery. In a trance, you seem to hear Su Zi whispering in your ear: "Is it fun to visit Chibi?"
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Huanggang City is located in the eastern part of Hubei Province, at the southern foot of the Dabie Mountains and on the north bank of the middle reaches of the Yangtze River. It is connected to the three provinces of Henan, Anhui and Jiangxi. The golden waterway of the Yangtze River, the Beijing-Kowloon Railway, and the Shanghai-Chengdu Expressway crisscross the territory, making the transportation extremely convenient. There are many places of interest and historic sites in the territory. In addition to Red Cliff on the east slope, there are also the Buddhist Holy Land Wuzu Temple, the Cemetery of Medical Saint Li Shizhen, the hometown of Bi Sheng, the inventor of movable type printing, and the Hong'an Martyrs Cemetery.
Dongpo Chibi is located in the northwest of the ancient Huangzhou City in Huanggang City. In the past, it was generally believed that the ancient battlefield of Chibi was located in Puqi County in southern Hubei. However, in recent years, data research has shown that the Battle of Chibi took place here. Huanggang Red Cliff was first built in the early years of the Western Jin Dynasty and was rebuilt many times. During the Northern Song Dynasty, the great writer Su Dongpo was demoted to Huangzhou due to the "Wutai Poetry Case" and wrote the following and later Chibi Fu, "Nian Nujiao·Chibi Nostalgia" and other famous poems that have been passed down through the ages. With his work, Huangzhou Red Cliff became a famous cultural site famous both at home and abroad, and was associated with Su Dongpo's name. In the late Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, it was renamed "Dongpo Red Cliff". The existing area is more than 400 acres, and the buildings include two halls, three floors, two pavilions, one studio, one statue, one peak, nine pavilions, etc. There are nearly 200 calligraphy and painting inscriptions by famous people in the past dynasties in Red Cliff, including more than 100 calligraphy and painting inscriptions by Su Shi, ranking first among individual inscriptions in the country.