Diary of a Cat Dad - Nanluoguxiang

Before, Nanluoguxiang was just an ordinary old Beijing hutong, not far from where I live, just a 10-minute walk away.

Nanluoguxiang is located in the Jiaodaokou area on the east side of Beijing's central axis, starting from Gulou East Street in the north and ending at Ping'an Street in the south, with a width of 8 meters and a total length of 787 meters, and was built during the same period of the Yuan Dynasty. It is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Beijing, with a history of more than 740 years. It is also ranked among the 25 old city conservation areas in the plan. It is called Luoban Alley because its terrain is high in the center and low in the north and south, like a hunchback. In the Qing Dynasty, the "Complete Map of the Capital" drawn in the 15th year of the Qianlong reign (1750) renamed it Nanluoguxiang (South Drum and Guillotine Alley).

It is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Beijing, and is the only checkerboard-type traditional residential area in China that has preserved the hutong courtyard texture of the Yuan Dynasty in its entirety, with the largest scale, the highest grade, the richest resources, and is also the most endowed with the flavor of the old Beijing streets and alleys. The surrounding hutongs are full of colorful and deep residences and mansions of various shapes and sizes. Nanluoguxiang and the surrounding area was once the center of the Yuan Dynasty, and during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was a place of great wealth and prosperity, where the streets and alleys were crowded with dignitaries, and the royal mansions were countless, until the Qing Dynasty was overthrown, and the prosperity of Nanluoguxiang slowly came to an end.

In recent years, people with foresight have seen the business opportunities, rented private houses along the street, opened up a variety of styles of personalized stores, the old Yuan Dynasty alleys hybrid of old and new, this rebirth, global tourists love to come to this "Lost in Beijing". 2009, Nanluoguxiang was selected by the U.S. Weekly Time magazine for the 25 places in Asia you have to go to the fun place.

Since then, it has been a favorite destination for tourists from all over the world.

Since then, Nanluoguxiang has suddenly become a 3A attraction, bustling with people every day, and residents of the Annex have to take a detour to avoid the crowds.

Because the average daily flow of visitors to Nanluoguxiang seriously exceeded the capacity of the scenic spot, since April 25, zero hour, Beijing's famous attractions Nanluoguxiang will suspend the reception of tourist groups. At the same time, Nanluoguxiang has canceled the national AAA scenic qualification.

According to statistics, the average daily traffic of Nanluoguxiang is more than 30,000 people, the weekend traffic is more than 50,000 people, and the holiday traffic is more than 100,000 people. And according to the National Tourism Administration previously announced the "maximum capacity of the scenic area approved guidelines" standard, Nanluoguxiang scenic area of the instantaneous capacity of 17,000 people, the current number of tourists seriously exceeded the scenic area of the carrying capacity of the local neighborhood environment and the lives of the residents has caused a great impact, but also on the neighborhood style and facilities have caused varying degrees of damage.

From 00:00 on April 25, 2016, Nanluoguxiang suspended the reception of tourist groups. At the same time, due to unbearable scenic spot traffic overload, Nanluoguxiang took the initiative to cancel the 3A scenic spot title.

On December 20, 2016, from the 16th National People's Congress of Beijing Dongcheng District, the Nanluoguxiang Historical and Cultural Neighborhood Style Protection Guidelines were officially released and implemented. Nanluogu businesses will be reduced to 154 from 235 at the beginning of the year. Nanluo will focus on restoring the residential function.

This weekend, with Beijing's sunny weather, I took my son for a late-afternoon stroll through the long-forgotten Nanluoguxiang. There were fewer visitors than before, so at least I was able to walk around, and my 9-year-old son was able to get out of looking at the adults' asses, which was nice.

Along the street, both sides of the road are still full of colorful stores, and there is no reduction at all. Almost half of the way, only to see 2 old Beijing customs store, which has a blowing candy man, enamel cups for sale, and pinch the face, the area is very small. There were more food and beverage stores of various colors, New Zealand cheese, Korean fries, Belgian ice cream, occasionally interspersed with one or two old Beijing fried noodle shops. Luckily, that Wenyu Old Beijing Yogurt Shop is still there, and there's still a line of more than a dozen people out front.

My son kept dragging me along Nanluoguxiang and didn't pay much attention to what I was saying. When I asked him to look at the candy blowers and face painters, he wasn't interested.

After passing the Wenyu yogurt store, my son stopped and looked around, and I asked, "What are you looking for?"

"I'm looking for that Australian-flavored frozen yogurt store!" My son said as he jumped to his feet.

Hey, so that's how it is, this snacker, remembering food is much more efficient than memorizing words.

"That store isn't there anymore! A lot of stores here have changed!" I replied.

"Ow~~! "My son was very disappointed. Luckily he didn't go on to ask why those little stores were gone, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to explain it in a sentence or two. Like Beijing is now remediation of the demolition of walls and holes, the street facade room has been opened windows and doors, according to a few years ago, or even 10 years ago to restore the old look, that is, the beautiful glass windows and doors with ugly red bricks in the to block up. My son asked me why this is, and said that this is really ugly, I can not tell my son so that he can understand the answer.

Fortunately, I found a solution. Not far away, there is a small store, the door sign has big words: "Cupcake", but also painted two foreign beauty. This is not the popular American drama "bankruptcy sisters"? Hey, in the rich old Beijing hutong hanging American drama "bankrupt sisters" painting, looks so out of place, a little bit of a feeling of travel.

"Son, what does cupcake mean? " I quizzed my son on his English.

"Cup, cake, what does it mean? I have not learned. "My son looked up and asked me.

"It's cupcake! It's a cake made by putting cream, eggs, flour, etc. in a cup and baking it in the oven. It's a famous dish in American TV shows, let's go and try it! "I explained to my son.

"Yes, yes! "My son's eyes were full of stars, and he ran in happily.

The store is very small, with only 2 small tables and 4 chairs, and a dozen or so cups of small, delicate cakes in a glass cabinet under the bar.

"Dad, which is good?" The son asked.

"I've never had one either. But there is a good way to choose the store's main sign, usually not bad." I'm also an old foodie and imparted my experience to my son.

"Okay, I'll take the signature cupcake!" My son said.

The clerk, a chubby young man, very kindly handed my son the cake, a napkin, and a glass of plain water.

My son took a small bite and enjoyed it.

I looked at Nanluoguxiang, which is full of so-called "food" from all over the world, and felt a little disappointed!

"Son, this Nanluoguxiang is not getting less and less old Beijing flavor," I chatted with my son!

"This Nanluoguxiang is getting less and less like the old Beijing," I said to my son.

"What is the old Beijing flavor? "My son did not understand.

Also, what is the old Beijing flavor? The courtyard houses have been torn down, and the old people have changed from playing birds and Tai Chi to square dancing and walking their dogs.

"Old Beijing flavor is Beijing snacks? "My son saw that I did not say anything, and then asked.

"Do you like Beijing snacks, or do you like to eat cake? "I asked the snacker.

"I like to eat donkey rolls, fried cake, sugar fire roast, I also like to eat cake? "The snack food guy looked like he was taking it for granted.

"Dad is thinking that there are fewer and fewer old Beijing things and old Beijing snacks in Nanluoguxiang now. "I whined to my son.

"So did dad get to eat cupcakes when he was a kid? " my son asked me.

"No, you had to queue up at a restaurant for a snack back then. "I answered.

"Then it's better now, you can eat anything you want. Here, you also try a bite of cupcake. " my son said while lifting the cupcake to my mouth.

Yes, my son is so old and still obsessed with what old Beijing flavor.

My son has taught me a lesson: it's better now, as long as it's good, it doesn't matter if it's old, new, local, or foreign.

This is the first time I've ever seen a Chinese person with an old, new, local, or foreign product, and I've never seen one!

The old Beijing hutongs, food from all over the world, weird and wonderful stores of all colors are wonderfully accommodated together, as well as tourists coming and going, making up a scenery that is a bit of a crossroads and a bit of a mismatch.