History
Manchurian robe
The cheongsam is a women's fashion in the Republican period, evolved from the Manchu women's robes. Since the Manchu are called "cheongsams", they are called "cheongsams". From the Shunzhi, Jiaqing years repeatedly promulgated the ban, Manchu women are prohibited to imitate the Han Chinese women's attire of the prevailing trend. To the late Qing Dynasty, there are also Han women imitate Manchu attire. Manchu-Chinese women's clothing style quietly intermingled, so that the difference between the two sides of the dress is increasingly reduced, and then became the prelude to the popularity of the cheongsam across the country. From the meaning of the word solution, cheongsam refers to cheongsam (both men and women) robes, but only the eight banners of the women's daily robes worn by the cheongsam has a blood relationship with the later generations of cheongsam, used as a dress for the court, python robes, etc. Customarily has not been categorized as the "cheongsam" category. In the Qing Dynasty, women's clothing can be said to be the coexistence of Han and Manchu. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, Manchu women to robes, and Han Chinese women are still on the dress under the skirt for the fashion; in the Qing Dynasty wearing traditional cheongsam court people
period, the Han and Manchu have imitated; to the late Qing Dynasty, Manchu imitation of the Han's style is flourishing, and even appeared in "half of the cheongsam dress to Han's clothes, the court robe cut off as a short garment" situation, and Han Imitation of Manchu clothing style, but also at this time in some officials and noblewomen in the popular up. Popular in ethnic minority areas or nomadic robes, generally more tight fit, for riding and shooting or other intense activities, this style of clothing more than left overlooking, narrow sleeves, robes more modest. Historically, the Han people have also been adopted many times this narrow fit robe style, Zhao Wuling King of the implementation of the Hu riding is a typical example. The Tang Dynasty Hu clothing was also popular for a while, Hu clothing in the Tang Kaiyuan, Tianbao years and Hu makeup, Hu ride, Hu music with the people tend to worship, can be counted as an exotic culture of a large area of popularity example, belonging to the street of Chang'an that year's "imported goods". In the Liao, Jin, Yuan and the Qing Dynasty and other minority regimes, fitted robes have once played a leading role in the dress, although they are experiencing or show the process or trend of becoming broad. Since the Qing Dynasty lasted the longest, the robe can be regarded as a typical costume. During the Shunzhi period (1644 AD), the Qing Emperor entered the customs, set the capital at Beijing, and then unified the whole country. With the initial stabilization of the regime, it began to force the implementation of shaving hair and changing clothes, setting off a powerful bloody killings, so that the traditional dress Hanbok was almost completely banned to wear, passed down for thousands of years of the Hanbok form of clothing under the Hanbok system is only retained in the Han women's home in the attire. Celebration occasions regardless of men and women have to wear robes, all kinds of robes and clothing, there are a variety of robes, robes, dragon robes, python robes and regular robes and other points. In the late Qing Dynasty, the flag woman wore the robe, the body is broader, modeling lines straight and hard, clothes long to the ankle. "Yuanbao collar" is very common, collar high cover the cheeks touched ear, robe embroidered with colorful patterns, collar, sleeves, lapel, according to have multiple broad piping. To Xianfeng, Tongzhi years, rolled to the peak of the period, and some even the whole piece of clothing with lace rolled, so that it is almost difficult to recognize the original material. Cheongsam's decorative gowns of the tedious, several to the peak of the realm of the Qing dynasty at this time is to save the peril, the Qing dynasty foreign affairs put forward "secondary school for the body, western learning for use" of the national salvation strategy, sending a large number of foreign students to study abroad. In the Chinese students first appeared in the Western-style students of the fuck clothes, fuck hats, the import of foreign clothes, provides another reference system for judging the beauty of the direct impact on the social concept of dress change. In the future, cheongsam evolved into a new style that blends the East and the West, and the change of its influence by the West can be said to be the beginning of this.
Republic of China cheongsam
The 1930s and 1940s were the golden age of the cheongsam, and also the most brilliant period of modern Chinese women's clothing. At this time, the cheongsam has a long and slender shape, which matches the silhouette of women's clothing popular in Europe at this time. At this time, the cheongsam has completely jumped out of the limitations of the cheongsam's robe, completely a "East meets West" of the new style of clothing. First of all, there is a "special tailoring school". The cheongsam's localization was westernized, in the collar, sleeves outside the western treatment, such as the use of ruffled collar, western-style lapel, lotus time sleeve, etc., or the use of the left and right lapel of the double lapel. Although the application of these reforms was not extensive, it indicated the freedom of thought of the people at that time, and the original program of cheongsam was no longer necessary to follow. The matching of the cheongsam with western-style jackets was also a feature of the "special tailoring school", which made the cheongsam enter the family of international clothing, and could be combined with a variety of modern clothing, in today's words, it has been "internationalized and modernized". 1920's cheongsam was still wide and straight; echoing the inverted large sleeves popular in the Qin Dynasty, the hemline of the cheongsam was relatively large, and the whole body of the robe was in the shape of an "inverted large". But the shoulders, chest and even the waist, has been the trend of fit. Eileen Chang said, "The first cheongsams were cold and square, with a puritanical style." If the writer, who was good at observing and describing fashion, was referring to the 1920s when she said "the beginning of the era", then "strict, cold and square" must have been the impression of her childhood. At the end of the 1930s, the "improved cheongsam" appeared. The cut and structure of the cheongsam became more westernized, with the use of the chest and waist provinces to make the cheongsam more fitted, and the appearance of shoulder seams and sleeves to make the shoulders and armpits fit. Some people also make softer shoulder pads, called "beauty shoulder". This showed that women were beginning to abandon the old ideal shape characterized by cut shoulders. These cuts and structural changes were made in Shanghai. Mr. Jin Taijun, a descendant of Shanghai Hongxiang, firmly believes this. Although he did not personally experience the process in its entirety, he was able to obtain a lot of information about it from his masters when he worked at Hongxiang in the 1940s. At this time, the cheongsam has matured and has been finalized, and later cheongsams can no longer jump out of the 30s cheongsams determined by the basic form, only in the length, fat and thin and decoration to make some changes. The cheongsam loved by women all over the world is typified by the cheongsam of the 30's. The cheongsam of the 30's was the most popular style in the world. The cheongsam of the 30's was modeled after the Shanghai cheongsam. Shanghai at that time was the center of Asian fashion and a paradise for socialites. The 1911 Xinhai Revolution overthrew the last feudal dynasty in Chinese history, removing political obstacles to the popularization of Western-style clothing in China, and at the same time throwing aside the traditional harsh concepts of etiquette and decency, and lifting all the shackles of the hierarchical strictness of the clothing system. Clothing to civilianization, internationalization Teresa Teng cheongsam photo
The freedom of change, has been water, cheongsam thus removed the heavy burden of tradition. The old-style cheongsam robes were both abandoned, the new-style cheongsam began to brew in the chaotic makeup. In the 1920s, the cheongsam was gradually popularized among women by the influence of western dress and after improvement. This cheongsam is the Han Chinese in the absorption of Western clothing styles, through the continuous improvement of Chinese, before entering the thousands of households. There are many styles of cheongsam, such as Ruyi placket, Pipa placket, oblique placket, double placket; collar with high collar, low collar, no collar; cuffs with long sleeves, short sleeves, no sleeves; slits with high slits, low slits; there are also long cheongsams, short cheongsams, folder cheongsams, single cheongsams, etc. The improved cheongsam was popularized in the 20th century, after the Han Chinese absorbed the Western clothing styles, through continuous improvement. Improved cheongsam in the 1930s, almost become the standard clothing for Chinese women. At this time the center of fashion has long been moved to Shanghai from Suzhou and Yangzhou. Shanghai was also the center of women's quest for liberation. Missionaries, businessmen, revolutionaries competing to establish women's schools, set off a wave of feminist movement, seeking liberation of the social climate cleansing the dress and makeup on the stereotypes, tends to be simple, and strive for light tone, focusing on reflecting the natural beauty of women. The cheongsam initially appeared in the form of a vest, which was as long as the back of the foot and was added to the short jacket. Later, the long vest was changed into a sleeved style, which became the prototype of the new cheongsam. It is said that the female students in Shanghai, who were the first to take advantage of the trend, were the initiators of the popularity of cheongsam. At that time, female students as the representative of intellectual women, become the ideal image of society, they are the symbol of civilization, fashion pioneer, and even social celebrities fashionable people have to make female students dress up. The 30's and 40's were the peak period of cheongsam, and the improved cheongsam appeared at this time, and drew on the western cutting method in the structure to make the robe body more fit and proper. Although the cheongsam was born in the Qing Dynasty, it is different from the old one, and has become the standard dress of modern Chinese women, which is characterized by a combination of Chinese and Western costumes. The cheongsam
The cheongsam originated from the cheongsam's robe, and Beijing was the place where the cheongsam lived the most, so until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the cheongsam belonged to the Beijing school of culture. Qing dynasty cheongsam robes include men's robes and women's robes, but because the cheongsam is women's clothing, so it can also be said that the cheongsam originated from the cheongsam women's robes. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, the long, thin, narrow, small-sleeved, plain and simple cheongsam robes have become wide and complicated at the end of the Qing Dynasty. After the Xinhai Revolution, the cheongsam people gave up their robes and coats and pants, so the cheongsam in the 20th century 10 years with very few people, the 20's only a slight return. After the revolution, the cheongsam had a qualitative change, the main place of this change, but Shanghai. End of the Qing Dynasty cheongsam's robe and the Republic of China cheongsam's main differences are three: 1. cheongsam's robe is wide and straight, does not reveal the shape of the body; Republic of China cheongsam's robe to open the province to collect the waist, show the body or female curves. 2. 2. the cheongsam's robe inside the pants, in the slit can be seen in the embroidered trouser legs; Republic of China cheongsam inside the panties and stockings, the slit to show the legs. 3. the cheongsam's robe fabric to heavy brocade or other jacquard fabrics mostly, decorative and cumbersome; Republic of China cheongsam fabric is lighter and thinner, printed fabrics, decorative and more simple. It is these three differences, so that the cheongsam has undergone a qualitative change - from the traditional gown into a new species comparable to the Western dress. The cheongsam is a coat, a type of clothing that emphasizes function (protection from the cold, covering the body, indicating status, etc.) and its aesthetic meaning is traditionally subtle. Skirt dress, robe in French or one-piece dress in English, although also has a similar history with the Chinese robe and emphasize the function of the tradition, but the expression of the female body curve is also one of its long tradition; and the modern skirt suit has strengthened this feature, from the implicit, idealized, local performance, into the exposed, sexy and full-body performance. For all these expressions of the nuances of the female form in the modern Western dress, the Republican cheongsam is unrivaled. After the founding of New China, the number of women wearing cheongsams on the mainland decreased dramatically. A well-known person once said without regret: "For women with a better figure, not being able to wear the cheongsam is really a great loss!" 1911 Xinhai Revolution storm rose, overthrew the Manchu rulers, destroyed the last feudal dynasty in Chinese history, for the popularity of Western-style clothing in China to remove the political obstacles, but also the traditional harsh rituals and concepts of decency cast aside, lifted the uniforms on the hierarchical shackles of all kinds of. The free change of clothing to civilianization and internationalization has come to fruition, and the cheongsam has thus removed the heavy burden of tradition. Due to the demise of the Manchu ruling regime, the cheongsam at this time very few wearers. Western-style Chinese dress up bustling and everywhere. The old-style cheongsam robes have been abandoned, the new cheongsam in the chaotic makeup began to brew. The beginning of the Republic of China - quietly transition over the cheongsam. At the beginning of the 20th century, China's politics were in turmoil. Xinhai Revolution abolished the imperial system, the creation of the Republic of China, cut the braid hair, easy to serve the color, destroyed, overthrew the Manchu feudal rulers, belonging to the feudal dynasty's crown and clothing hierarchy into the history museum, all of which for the new cheongsam to create the conditions for the prolonged life. Chen Qiqi photo
After the Xinhai Revolution, the characteristic attire of flag women such as "dala wing" and "flower pot bottom" disappeared overnight. ...... In 1924, the last emperor Puyi was expelled from the Forbidden City of China. In 1924, the last emperor Puyi was expelled from the Forbidden City, and the Qing crown dress became extinct.Around 1920, the spring tide of the New Culture Movement awakened people's desire for beauty. During this period, Shanghai became a new showcase for women's makeup, and the pursuit of new and fashionable clothing became a social trend at the time, with fashionable women having a dual sensitivity to politics and fashionable clothing. Influenced by the Japanese style of dress, the "new civilized dress" became popular in the 1910s and early 1920s, and the black dresses worn by schoolgirls and teachers became fashionable. The 1920s - Reverse Sleeves and New Styles. In the 1910s and early 1920s, the "new civilized dress" was fashionable among urban women. The 1930s - Golden Age (i) The 1920s to the 1940s is the most glorious period of modern Chinese women's clothing, and the 1930s can be considered the peak of this period of splendor. It was at this time that the cheongsam established its irreplaceable and important position on the stage of women's clothing and became the typical representative of Chinese women's clothing. The 40's - the golden age (ii) Cheongsam's progress towards the classic can be said to have been basically completed in the 30's, and the 40's was a continuation of its golden age in time. After the 20's to the 40's, is the modern Chinese women's clothing the most glorious period, and the 30's can be called the peak of this period of splendor. It is at this time that the cheongsam established its irreplaceable position in the stage of women's clothing, and became the typical representative of Chinese women's clothing. After entering the 30s, the cheongsam shape matured perfectly, which is called a classic, making it difficult for future cheongsams to break away from this silhouette, and they can only be slightly changed in terms of length, fat and thin, and decorations. ...... The cheongsam that is known to every household all over the world, and which is known as the Chinese dress (Haipai cheongsam), is actually exactly the cheongsam of the 30s. The cheongsam culture was completed in the 1930s. The cheongsam culture was completed in the 1930s, and the 1930s was the golden age of the cheongsam. It can be said that only at this time did China have real fashion, in the modern sense of the word. The import of foreign materials, major newspapers and magazines to open up the clothing column, and the red-hot month of fashion beauty painting, are undoubtedly promoting the production and popularity of fashion. Because of the cheongsam's long and slender body just to cater to the southern women's thin and delicate figure characteristics, so in Shanghai Bund doubly favored ...... and join the western clothing characteristics of the sea cheongsam, will naturally soon be popular from Shanghai all over the country. In this way, as an important representative of the sea culture, the sea cheongsam has become the mainstream of the cheongsam in the 30's. The cheongsam of the 30's that we are talking about is the sea cheongsam. The improved cheongsam appeared in the late 30's and drew on western style cutting methods in the structure, making the body of the cheongsam more fit and proper. Although the cheongsam was born in the Qing Dynasty, it has been very different from the old system, and has become the standard clothing of modern Chinese women with both Chinese and Western clothing features. ...... At the beginning of the founding of the country, people's pursuit of beauty in clothing has been completely transformed into a fervor for the revolutionary work. The laid-back, comfortable ladylike image that the cheongsam represented lost its room for survival in this atmosphere......
Modern cheongsams
At the beginning of the twentieth century, it was fashionable to wear a short jacket with flared, wide sleeves, and a long, sleeveless vest with the front and back of the jacket reaching the ground. Since then, the cheongsam has made some changes in the side, sleeve, lapel, collar, etc., increased the decoration, and appeared complicated changes. But still maintain the old cheongsam vest straight and wide style, attacked the traditional straight line tailoring, revealing the female slender body. Liu Yifei cheongsam photo
In the late twenties and thirties, the cheongsam was repeated in the length, width, slit height and sleeve length, short sleeves, collar height and low collar changes in scale. In 1929, influenced by the European and American short skirt, the original length of the moderate cheongsam began to become shorter, the hemline shrunk to the knee, the cuffs became shorter and smaller. Later, there were school uniform cheongsams, with the hem reduced to 1 inch above the knee and western-style sleeves. This change was criticized, and after 1931 the cheongsam began to grow longer again, with a drooping hem. In the mid-1930s, the cheongsam was so long that the bottom of the cheongsam fell to the floor to cover the feet, and it was called the "floor-sweeping cheongsam". The sleeves of the cheongsam, which originally covered the wrists, were shortened to the elbows. Later, the sleeve length became shorter and shorter, shrinking to two inches below the shoulder, and almost sleeveless after 1936. Qing dynasty cheongsam did not slit, cheongsam appeared, cheongsam in shortening the sleeve also quietly in the left side of the low slit. Later, the slit opened higher and higher gradually and knee high to the thigh. Due to some people's opposition, the gown slit once returned to below the knee. However, as soon as the pressure of public opinion was reduced, the slit of the gown was rapidly raised again, and the cheongsam with a big slit became popular after 1933. The traditional cheongsam was a straight line up and down, with a high stiff collar. In the early thirties, the waist of the cheongsam began to shrink over time, and after 1934, the curves of the female figure were finally fully revealed. The ear-high collar also gradually became shorter, and later some became collarless cheongsams. At the beginning of the founding of the PRC, the pursuit of beauty in clothing had been completely transformed into a fervor for revolutionary work. The laid-back, comfortable image of the lady represented by the cheongsam lost its viability in this atmosphere ...... The 50's - there was also a brilliant moment In the era when the people were in charge, if there was a popularity of clothing, the dominance of that popularity had shifted to the common man. By 1956, it is said that a leading figure from the former Soviet Union visited China and suggested that Chinese clothing should reflect the new face of socialism, so the government called for "everyone to wear flowery clothes. The cheongsam that appeared at this time added a healthy and natural temperament to the past. Not demonic, not charming, not delicate, not morbid, in line with the standards of "beautiful and generous" at the time, but also more practical ...... 60's and 70's - the 20 years of neglect From 1966 to 1976, the "Cultural Revolution" was a time when the traditional culture and culture of the Chinese people were in a state of flux, and the Chinese culture of the Chinese people was in a state of flux, and the Chinese culture of the Chinese people was in a state of flux. The "Cultural Revolution" from 1966 to 1976 was a catastrophe for traditional culture and a disaster for cheongsam. The 80s and 90s - the splendor is hard to come back Throughout the 80s, it was always predicted that cheongsam would become popular. Especially in the 80's and 90's, the ideal image of women changed again, and the tall, slender, flat-shouldered and narrow-hip body was desired by people. The cheongsam, which can best reflect this perfect figure, has room for survival and development. As a rule, the cheongsam will return to the people again. But surprisingly, the cheongsam is not popular again, but only a few people in the wear ...... The heyday of the cheongsam is far away, was left out of the cold for 30 years, in the 80's after the opening of the country seems to be a bit outdated. However, in the 80's and 90's, a kind of "uniform cheongsam" with professional symbolism appeared. For the purpose of publicity and promotion, the cheongsam was worn by the Miss Manners, the Miss Welcome, and the female waitresses in entertainment venues and hotels and restaurants. This cheongsam is uniform, mostly with chemical fiber imitation silk fabrics, bright colors, slits are very high, rough workmanship. This really undermines the cheongsam in people's minds the good image. People in order to distinguish their own identity, more dare not rashly wear cheongsam ...... modern cheongsam (12) Since the 1990s, the ideal image of women has changed. Tall and slender, with flat shoulders and narrow hips, is what people aspire to. And as a representative of Chinese fashion that best complements the figure and temperament of Chinese women - the cheongsam - has once again attracted people's attention. Overseas, there are many design masters to cheongsam as inspiration, launched a cheongsam with international flavor, and even the combination of Chinese cheongsam and European night dress products. The definition of the cheongsam has become broader and the basic shape has become more defined. In the 30s and 40s the cheongsam changed more in the choice of fabrics and trims, as well as in the length and slits. As the position of the hemline was an important feature of women's fashion, the hemline was the most important style line. In Europe, the hemline of women's clothing in the 1930s was consistently low, while the waistline was higher. Long skirts characterized the 1930s and were a distinguishing mark from women's clothing of the 1920s.The cheongsams of the 1930s were also very long.In 1931 and 1932, the hemline was positioned higher because the influence of the 1920s had not been removed. From 1932 until 1938, the cheongsam was very long. Especially around 1934, in Shanghai, cheongsams with hemlines almost reaching the ground were very popular. This shows that the Shanghai cheongsam was almost synchronized with the international fashion of women's clothing. Any fabric or detail or decoration with Chinese interest can be called cheongsam. So we can have cheongsams with no lapel, no collar or no slit.
Edit Cheongsam Characteristics
Overview
Classical cheongsams are mostly made of flat lines, with loose bodices, open sides, and chest and waist circumferences that are closer in proportion to the size of the bodice. The Beijing school and the sea school of cheongsam represent two styles in art and culture. Sea style is characterized by the absorption of Western art, new and flexible, with a strong commercial flavor; Beijing style is with the official style, seemingly reserved and condensed. Art is a social ideology that reflects social life and expresses the author's thoughts and feelings through the creation of images. Cheongsam
Designers and the cheongsam evolved in the first half of the 20th century, and the basic features and elements of the cheongsam slowly stabilized. The cheongsam became a classic women's garment. The classic is relatively stable, while the fashion is ever-changing. However, fashion designers often look for inspiration from the treasure trove of classics, and the cheongsam is also one of the sources of inspiration for designers. The cheongsam is a traditional fashion for Chinese women that has emerged in modern times, rather than a formal traditional national costume. It has had its vicissitudes in the past, but it also has a new and refreshing present. The cheongsam itself has a certain historical significance, coupled with a relatively high degree of appreciation, and thus has a certain collector's value. Although there are fewer women wearing cheongsam in modern times, many places in modern cheongsam still maintain the traditional flavor, while at the same time reflecting the beauty of fashion. These characteristics of the Republic of China cheongsam, which are consistent with the aesthetics of Western dress, did not arise by chance. At that time, Shanghai, a metropolis with a mixture of Chinese and Western cultures, was the birthplace of the most favorable conditions. Now we may have been difficult to find the Republic of China cheongsam in Shanghai birth of conclusive evidence, but we can still assert that the sea robe is the Republic of China cheongsam typical. If we are a little more bold, we can further assume that the modern cheongsam, or tongs meaning of the cheongsam, is the sea cheongsam. Because, in the general public's mind, the word cheongsam triggered by the association or imagery, is the 1930s and 1940s of the sea cheongsam. The modern cheongsam has entered the era of three-dimensional modeling, with the appearance of provincial roads on the piece of clothing, a more fitted waist and with Western-style sleeves, the length of the cheongsam's garment, the length of the sleeve is greatly shortened, and the waist is more and more fitted. The appearance of the modern cheongsam generally requires all or part of the following features: right-over-right placket or half-placket form, stand-up collar with a button, pendulum side slit, single piece of material, waist, sleeveless or short-sleeved and so on. The slit is only one of the many features of the cheongsam, not the only one, nor is it necessary.
Style
There are many styles of cheongsam, such as lapel, pipa lapel, slanting lapel, double lapel; collar has a high collar, low collar, collarless; cuffs have long sleeves, short sleeves, sleeveless; slits have high slits, low slits; there are also long cheongsam, short cheongsam, clip cheongsam, single cheongsam and so on. Changes in cheongsam styles are mainly sleeve and lapel changes. Sleeve styles mainly include: wide sleeve, narrow sleeve, long sleeve, medium sleeve, short sleeve or sleeveless. Lapel styles are mainly round lapel, straight lapel, square lapel, pipa lapel, etc.: round lapel cheongsam gowns - lapel lines are round and smooth; straight lapel cheongsam gowns - full-bodied, round-faced women are suitable for this style, which can make the body appear slender; square lapel cheongsam gowns --The square-breasted cheongsam gown is a bold reform of the lapel, suitable for different face shapes. Pipa Lapel Cheongsam Gowns - In addition there are double round lapel cheongsam, double placket cheongsam and other styles.
Collar
General collar, penguin collar, Fengxian collar, no collar , teardrop collar, bamboo leaf collar, horseshoe collar
Materials
To make cheongsam there are fabric, silk, brocade, etc., and at present there are silk double-crepe, silk spinning, power spinning, Hang Luo and other silk fabrics.
Color
The common big red cheongsam, colorful and eye-catching, chic style, fully demonstrates the long history and culture of the Manchu nation, focusing on reflecting the Oriental women's subtle and elegant charm.
Patterns
Modern common cheongsam patterns for brocade satin, with traditional Chinese decorations such as double fish, flowers, plum blossoms, etc., as well as hand-painted cheongsam design with Chinese ink painting techniques to depict the floral pattern.
Edit paragraph production process