As an authentic northern kid, I spent my four years of college and my post-graduation year in Xiamen and Southeast Asia in southern China. Every day the sky was high and the sun was shining. Every winter, see snow in the circle of friends feel incredibly envious. 2016, I went back to Beijing for graduate school. As a result, I didn't wait for a decent snow in '18. This year is especially excessive. Most of China has had snow, but Beijing is still sunny as usual.
And then, there must be a real snowy country to visit in winter.
Unfortunately, just two days before my trip, the Internet broke the news of my trip to the Northeast. First, nine girls from Beijing Forestry University traveling together in a van were involved in a traffic accident on the road from Harbin to Xiangxue, causing extremely painful consequences. Immediately afterward, an article with the headline, "The snow in Snow Township can't be white enough to cover up the pure black hearts! Don't go to Snow Township anymore! The article denounced the chaos of tourism in Heilongjiang, "nine months to sharpen the knife, three months to slaughter the sheep," the comments were very popular. This makes me a little uneasy when I plan to travel alone, but it's definitely not in my nature to return my ticket and stay in Beijing to "safely" blow dry. So, a careful plan is needed to avoid the problems of being "trapped" and "safe".
About safety:
1. A few students from Lynda University chartered a bus to the snow, which in many cases is the preferred way of free travel, however! Once out of the high-speed rail station, Harbin, was surrounded by black car drivers, no one cared! Considering the weather, black cars without insurance and license plates are still very unsafe.
2. The news said that 9 people chose to take the van. This, if not beyond my knowledge, should be overloaded, right? The roads are hard to navigate, plus overloaded, so you can imagine how dangerous it is. Safety first, safety first, safety first at all times! I am a person who values life.
3. Hotels are booked in advance. Basically everyone does this, but if the girls are traveling alone or with two or three people, it is recommended to book in the busier roads. Northeast winter at four in the afternoon the sky is dark, outside -30 degrees. There are not many people outdoors and it is not safe to walk at night.
4. Don't trust the guidance of people on the side of the road. I chose an older man with a "city manager" armband to ask for directions. He deliberately pointed me in the opposite direction. Luckily, I was smart enough to turn on the navigation at the same time. My uncle looked embarrassed and said it was a joke. I was in my mind -.
There is no doubt that he is a real city manager.
A few days later, I met fake staff in uniform, but in reality, they were selling tourist goods. After this experience, I decided not to ask for directions so easily.
5. Despite all the negative news in all kinds of traveling, we don't have to choke on it. After all, even if you take the subway, you will encounter jumpers in the subway, and you may be hit when you go out to buy food. No place is absolutely safe. If we stay at home forever, we will miss many opportunities to see the world.
So the point is not to fear danger, but to avoid it.
About "Pit Defense":
1. Xiangxue probably didn't expect to be a hot topic this year anyway, but for once, I didn't deliberately avoid Xiangxue. I only arranged to pass by Xiangxue. It is recommended to arrive at 2 or 3 pm and leave the house at 4 or 5 pm so that I can see the different locales of Xiangxue in the daytime and Xiangxue with the lights on at night. There is no need to buy anything, no need for lunch and dinner, and no need for accommodation, so that you can avoid the "eat, live, buy" the three most likely to be pitched steps. There is a place called "Tourist Service Center" in Xiangxue Scenic Area, which has free rest seats and hot water. There are also vending machines selling hot drinks and snacks at reasonable prices. If you are too cold or tired and thirsty, you can go in and sit down for a while to recharge your energy.
2. Take special care when going to the mountains. For example, Changbaishan is a very well developed tourist attraction, but the halls still have the "fake workers" I mentioned earlier. Used to terrorize tourists with insufficient equipment, up the mountain will freeze to death, shoes will slip down the mountain. Then you rent their knee pads, jackets, and chains when you get scared. However, you don't need them in the pro-test. You can prepare these equipment yourself in advance.
3. Prepare enough hot water! Most places will provide free hot water, but there is no hot water in Changbaishan, you can't buy it. You can only get hot water by buying bubbling noodles. Bubble noodles are 10 bucks a bucket at the foot of the mountain and 20 bucks a bucket on the mountain. For me who won't eat a bowl of instant noodles in a year, I've already finished my instant noodles this year.
Pre-departure preparation
1. Thermal underwear or fleece underwear (essential), snow cover (cold and waterproof) and ice claws (non-slip), down jacket/cotton jacket (essential), insulated water bottles (essential), warm hats (essential), windproof gloves (essential), rechargeable underwear (optional), large backpack or suitcase (optional), waterproof hiking shoes or snow boots.
2. Toiletries, photographic equipment, personal hygiene products, spare camera batteries, mobile power, enough camera memory cards;
3. High-calorie snacks (such as chocolate, beef jerky, milk candy, ginger tea);
4. Warmer patches (essential). It is recommended to use five pieces per day, stick knees, soles of the feet, cell phones (extreme cold weather to reduce the power consumption of cell phones off, personally tested effective);
5. Cold and flu medicines (Banlangen or 999 is the daytime blowing the wind after the prevention of cold and flu essential), antidiarrheal medicines, frostbite cream, band-aid, masks and other commonly used medicines (essential). Blowing the wind all day, you will thank me for the mask.
Given the extremely cold weather, it does take courage to apply sheet masks, which are recommended.
For example
The hydration is excellent.
6. You must bring your ID card, and other cards such as student ID, military officer ID, tour guide ID, press card, etc.. Bring all the cards that may allow you to do more with less.
7. Myopic friends to bring contact lenses, or take off the mask you will see the whole time -.
White and so clean.
Well, after all this talk, we can finally set off on a high note!
Here's the text!
Travel time:
January 9, 41, 15, 335 (including round-trip transport time)
Travel cost:
About 3,000 yuan
Placement punch list:
12.
Day 1: Harbin, Beijing - -
The reason why I chose this high speed train instead of flying directly there is because I think the journey is part of the journey, and I can tolerate eight hours. Suggest scheduling the trip. I'm still excited and not tired.
I deliberately chose a window seat. As the train traveled north, the window gradually turned from bare yellow land to snowy and thicker. The temperature display on the train went from -4, -8, -10 to -20 Looking up from time to time, the scenery was always changing. It was an amazing experience. It would have been more interesting to ride all the way from Guangzhou to experience the four seasons! Wave after wave of passengers around me, the northeastern accent is getting heavier and heavier.
Road reading and listening to songs all the way to minus 30 degrees. The phone's music app stores the songs I've listened to since college, in Chinese, English, French, Thai, Cantonese . Often I come across songs with a story. When I listen to them I'm reminded of how I felt playing singles at some point.
That feeling, it's so wonderful.
While I was quietly listening to the music and reading for the sixth hour, a group of chattering young people with familiar Southeast Asian accents and Thai people approached me to borrow a pen, but they finally relented. Everyone who talked in my degraded Thai laughed as I became more talkative.
Usually, I'm so busy with my so-called "business" that it's hard for me to read for long. This time it was a luxury. On the way back and forth, I read three accumulated books and was in a good mood.
They are -.
"On a Long Journey" by Michio Hoshino
"The Devotion of Suspect X" by Keigo Higashino
"A Bullet for You" by Liu Yu
I arrived at Harbin Station at around 3:00 p.m., and my uncle, a city policeman, was there to pick me up. After that, I decided to take a bus to the hotel.
It's worth noting that the bus stop sign at Harbin Station is very inconspicuous, a very small sign, and the buses to the city are not near the station. There is only a car ferry, free to the airport and other train stations. The bus to downtown has to turn a corner and walk a few hundred meters, and many passengers can't find it for a while. Maybe this is one of the reasons why black buses are rampant?
Anyway, as a veteran roadie, I found, and managed to reach, Kaisen!
Harbin is a city that blends Chinese and Western cultures. It is known as the "Moscow of the East", and with the opening of the Ice World, there is also Central Street, Gogol Street, Sofia Cathedral, Stalin Park, Polar Museum, etc. It is still worth a visit. Still worth a visit.
But as soon as I stepped off the warm high speed train, I felt like I had fallen into an ice chamber. After eight hours, I was very tired. It got dark around 4:30 and didn't think much of slipping around in the cold. Only passed by the cathedral and didn't have time to see the rest of the city. But, after all, my trip was mostly about nature, so my regret is that I didn't get to eat -.
Russian meal, sausages, dalbar and Harbin beer
It is recommended to buy some dry food in the city on the day of arrival. If you don't have enough cold weather gear with you, be prepared for that as well.
The second day: snow village Erlanghe Hat Mountain Ski Resort -
The first item in Northeast China is, of course, three, three, three, three, five, four to go skiing!
What makes the ski resorts in Northeast China different from other places?
Perhaps the biggest difference is that there is no need to pay na. Pure nature, no pollution, good snow quality.
We chose the Hat Mountain Ski Resort, which is one of the two five-star ski resorts in Heilongjiang. The equipment is very professional, and the configuration of the ski resort is also very good. Probably because it is the teaching base of Harbin Sports Institute, it is youthful and the ski area is big. Even if there are many people, it will not be crowded.
Without further ado, on the picture
Everything seems to be in harmony, but the truth is that the skis, gloves and poles are always falling off endlessly
Two hours of skiing is enough because you will be driven crazy by the process of dragging the heavy skis snot into the ice and then climbing back up.
All in all, this skiing has fueled my ambition to return to Beijing to continue honing my skills.
The afternoon ride to Erlanghe Snow Village is highly recommended!
This is also a small village. It's not too commercialized compared to Snow Country, which has gotten a bad reputation lately, but you can also see houses covered in snow like little mushrooms that haven't changed in years.
And dogs.
This is said to be one of the coldest places in Heilongjiang. Pouring water into ice is not a dream.
Then the locals would watch a bunch of silly kids from the south pour cups of boiling water into the sky and wait for it to turn to ice and fall on them. All of them are still very happy and don't know what they're thinking at the moment.
In Erlanghe Snow Village, there are many B&Bs to choose from, and the price should not be too conscientious compared to Xiangxue!
We chose Doudou's house, the host is very enthusiastic. We all made dumplings and had a dumpling feast together, which also eliminated the possibility of being pitched by expensive dishes.
The night two people live in the northeast of the traditional four-person kang, will not appear to the snow four people sleep in a kang, eight people into the big same store, the price is still expensive scene.
The name of my room was "goose stew", which made me laugh for a long time. Otherwise, you can think of "chicken stew", "cabbage stew", "tofu stew".
Sleep quietly.
Good night
Day 3: Erlanghe - Dabutengzi Mountain - Xiangxue - Mudanjiang
This is my favorite day, no! people!
Please come out again:
Bald Mountain is located 13 kilometers to Xiangxue, and the main peak is 1,690 meters above sea level. It is the highest peak in Heilongjiang. The snow on top of the mountain is said to remain unmelted all year round. Along the way are primeval forests surrounded by freezing fog. The top of the mountain is a flat area with a clear view. There are almost no trees, all low flowers and grasses. This is a treasure trove of alpine plants and a cradle of wildlife. The length of the hike is ten kilometers.
Equipment:
Hot water, trekking poles, snow cover (moisture-proof and insulated), high-calorie snacks (for energy on the way)
Mandatory:
Local guides.
On January 11, the sky on the climbing day was so blue that it was as transparent as if it had been scrubbed with snow. Beneath the sky, there were white snowfields
Freezing fog, commonly known as tree hangings, is a rare natural spectacle that condenses from oversaturated water vapor in the air during the cold season.
Freezing fog is not ice or snow, but is the result of countless amounts of below-zero-degree Celsius water vapor in yet-to-be-condensed fog that builds up in the wind on objects such as tree branches. The formation of freezing fog requires low temperatures and sufficient water vapor, and has these two on the formation of freezing fog is extremely important and contradictory natural conditions is even more rare.
So although there is a freezing fog island in Jilin, it is not always possible to see the freezing fog. I was lucky this time. Wherever I went, I could see the beautiful freezing fog.
The tall cedars are the original statues of Christmas trees!
Crystalline freezing fog
It's true that Eskimo girls' eyelashes freeze when they walk.
The view from the top is so wide open that you can fill in this picture with your brain of what 360 looks like. Because the weather was so nice, the "snow dragon" in the distance was also very clear, a kind of beauty that only the human eye's pixels can record.
The snow is so clean that people can't bear to step on it. The snow on the trees sometimes dripped down and filled the surroundings. Like snow, I looked up with a sour nose and wet eyes. Could this be the legendary beauty of crying?
If you want excitement, you can ride a snowmobile down the mountain. Very cool!
Flowery words are poor.
The climb to the top is always filled with my heart. Before the climb, Big Yellow Dog, the guide brother, had a lot of golden hair. He had to go up the mountain with us, but he never went back. He rolled in the snow, sold cuddly toys, and helped us pick up mittens. Clumps of white snow fell on him like flowers.
At that moment, my heart melted.
Natural beauty is something that human technology can never imitate, no matter how advanced it is.
Come or go, it's there, quiet, with an independent beauty.
After the hike, I took a public ****car to the famously tragic Snow City diss.
Toward the snow is located in the Shuangfeng Forestry Field of the Dahailin Forestry Bureau in Mudanjiang City, Heilongjiang Province. It was discovered by several photographers in the last century and became famous. Later, it aired on "Where's Dad Going," and Xiangxue began to be overcrowded.
Where there are people, there are rivers and lakes.
The key word in this year's Xiangxue jungle is - killers.
I had thought that the impact of the previous hot article would affect the number of visitors to Xiangxue, but it didn't feel like it when I arrived. There were still as many tourists as ever, most of them dragging their suitcases around at night, a stark contrast to the sparsely populated places I've been to before.
Wish them luck with a simple owner.
It was easy compared to us "passers-by".
Snow country during the day vs. snow country lit up at night
It was honestly beautiful.
The thick snowy roofs were lovely.
When the lights are on, it looks like a little fairytale town.
But there were too many tourists, and I have a natural repulsion to places where people congregate.
Passing by, but not stopping.
I sent it to live in Mudanjiang! Mudanjiang gave me my first scare.
Grandparents Square Dancing Downstairs at the Hotel
The whole country loves square dancing in the same way. I understand.
After all, square dancing has spread abroad as a national treasure.
However!
This is Mudanjiang!
At the moment the outdoor temperature is -28 degrees!
Stretch out your hand for ten seconds and you'll lose consciousness!
Mudanjiang people, please bow down to me.
Your physique has killed Ge You 90 years after the national Buddhist system of home brewing red dates and wolfberry water.
The fourth day: Mudanjiang - Mirror Lake Grand Canyon - winter fishing - Erdao Baihe
Mirror Lake Gorge is 100 kilometers from Mudanjiang City, the traffic is very convenient.
Jingbo Lake Waterfall Old Valley Korean Folk Village.
It is said that when you come in spring and summer, you can enjoy the unique living scenery and folk culture of the Korean people. There are long drum performances and lively bonfires every night, as well as intense wrestling and competitive entertainment combined with aerial swings. In addition to this, there are unique and authentic Korean food, residential accommodations, and original folklore performances that feel lively.
Rather, it's So!
Because we were there at the wrong time of year, the winter temperatures in the folk village were so cold that the shows were closed and no one was staying there. The whole village was quiet, but not desolate and run down. All the swings, tools for making cakes, etc. Staying where they were, all the room doors closed as if by sudden magic, the village disappeared, leaving only the things that hadn't been taken before.
And a small snow fox.
The lake froze over, as if all the big snowflakes had frozen to the ice. It was magnificent and magical.
Frozen is the shape of love for you!
All in all, if you want to experience this feeling of isolation in peace, you can choose to walk around in winter without any disturbance. If you want to experience Korean folklore or other warmer seasons, this place will be more lively, and the "disappeared" villagers will reappear here, as described in the book "The Story of Peach Blossom Garden":
"The land is flat and open, and the houses are just like it, with fertile fields, beautiful ponds, and mulberry trees.
Carriages and horses, chickens and dogs.
Among them were men and women dressed like strangers.
Yellow hair and happy."
Leaving Mirror Wave Canyon, we set out to see the winter fishing!
The most famous winter fishing at Chagan Lake is best remembered in this passage described in "Tongue in cheek":
"In the winter when the water drips into ice, the fishing teams begin to set out for Chagan Lake before dawn. During the period from the end of December to the Spring Festival every year, Chagan Lake enters the golden period of winter fishing. Because of winter, it is easier to preserve the fish caught. This ancient form of winter fishing originated in prehistory, flourished in the Liao and Jin dynasties, and has continued for thousands of years.
Winter fishing is hard work. Fishing is still the oldest way, done entirely by human labor and horse-drawn carts. At the site, you basically can't see modern machinery in action. The only thing you can see is a group of determined men, arching their backs and pulling heavy nets."
Well, back to reality. The truth is that watching a tourist program like winter fishing has been given too much of a show. What do you think winter fishing is?
In fact, the winter fishing you see might look something like this.
Fish are pulled out one by one and everyone grabs a picture with them.
It's worth noting that on the way to see winter fishing, you'll pass this skinny tire skid. The road is a vast expanse of ice, a bed of ice braving the cold beneath your feet, and a blue sky seamlessly connected to the ice above your head . When you meet a naughty owner, he will deliberately play ice drifting so that you can experience the sensation of dumping your tail.
PS: Be safe!
The back seat is also the most likely to be thrown out. If all the front seats are empty, try not to sit at the end for the thrill. Also, pull the armrests! Pull the armrest! Pull the armrest! Important thing to say three times.
Why do I know?
Because I watched the leader get thrown out and dragged away for a while.
My heart was in my mouth.
Safety first!
To avoid misunderstandings and unnecessary panic, let's be objective and say that normal tires that are full have no problem sitting at the end of the ride because there is enough weight to not get thrown out.
On the ice, you can be a martial arts master, and at night you can spend the night in Erdao Baihe!
I would like to say a big thank you to the hotel I stayed at tonight. The room was large enough and comfortable enough that I wouldn't be disappointed.
Of course, the most attractive thing to me is! This is a hot spring hotel. There is an outdoor spa and an indoor spa to choose from.
I choose the outdoor of course.
It's freezing cold outside and the hot spring pools are smoky. It was exciting to think about. I had planned to take a nice photo of the hot springs.
Even so, wasn't it!
However, reality was harsh. The time to go to the hot springs is usually at night, with fog around the dark side. All photos are high fuzzy. It doesn't matter, just have fun.
But the journey from the warmth of the indoors to the -20 degree outdoors in a towel, before entering the onsen, can be deadly!
Treading on the snow and ice, with the crisp, cold air blowing in your face, will leave you refreshed.
So take a deep breath, head out into the chilly air, and make a quick run for the hot springs
Once you step into the pool, you'll feel like it was all worth it.
Sauce, the rest of the feelings are still left for you to experience on your own.
If it's a hot spring hotel on Changbai Mountain, the bathing experience might be better. The geography around the hot springs is rather wild, so taking good photos during the day is not a dream.
One of the benefits of Jewel International is that it is very close to the Magic World Scenic Spot. It takes ten minutes to drive there.
Day 5: - Underground World of Changbai Mountain
The Magic World Scenic Spot of Changbai Mountain is located in the mixed coniferous and broad-leaved forest belt of Changbai Mountain. The water quality in the scenic area is excellent and does not freeze all year round. A magical scene occurs when the temperature is cold. When the plants in the water rise at sunrise, the atmosphere vaporizes to form a freezing fog, reflecting the hidden trees and water, as if in the ancient world of primitive society. Photographers call it the "Devil's World".
You need to get up early to see the most beautiful and original scenery of the underworld. If you leave at six o'clock, you can still catch the sunrise.
However, sunrise, like fog, requires opportunity.
So it's okay to get up early and not see the sunrise. The rest of the landscape in the Underworld is also worth seeing. Just one shot is a hit.
The same color as the grass by the river, the environment blends in nicely, and the red hat lights up and matches the whole body.
It would have been even more amazing with the red jacket that is so common in the snow.
Demon Realm or Fairy Realm?
After posting the photo to my friends that day, they asked why it wasn't called "Immortal Realm" or "Illusion Realm" because it seemed to be the kind of TV show where there is a plume of smoke floating on the river.
In fact, and Changbai Mountain compared to understand, here smoke, fog, the feeling of the netherworld is very cold and lonely. More tourists can not be integrated to destroy this feeling, there is a sense of severance between the background and the characters. Whether it's the dead wood that drifted across the water with the snow years ago, or the yellow cauliflower that silently builds up its strength in the freezing temperatures to regenerate in the coming year, or the green smoke that rises from the water, or the black branches that poke out of the side, they're all there.
You can come, but you can't take anything away from here.
Changbai Mountain is very different. Just look at the picture to understand.
First, go to Tianchi Zhenlou!
The surface of Tianchi is white, frozen and covered with snow.
There are clouds in the distance.
The other day it was still blue sky, no snow, no wind. When I came to Changbai Mountain, I didn't see the sunrise in the Underworld this morning and was worried about the weather. As it turned out, I was relieved when the sun fully rose. No clouds in the sky, too good to be true!
The tickets for Tianchi and Changbaishan are separate. If you want to go to Tianchi, you need to buy another ticket for 80 RMB.
But the probability of Changbaishan Tianchi being visible is too low. It doesn't open if the weather conditions don't allow it, and when it does, you can't necessarily see it even if you buy a ticket. There is a high probability that Tianchi will be shrouded in a blanket of white mist and nothing will be visible, like the one my friend saw the other day.
Basically the same shooting angle as the picture above, but Tianchi can not be seen at all, only bare snow mountain.
So it takes a lot of luck to see the Tianchi.
This time the weather was great and the probability of seeing it was 99%. Of course, I would not hesitate to buy a ticket to the mountain. According to the locals, the first time you come to Changbai Mountain, you can see the Tianchi will be good color all year round!
The way to Tianchi was in a four-seater SUV. The mountain road was very steep with a lot of snow, but it was very flat. The driving skills of the master were also very good. Most importantly, the scenery along the way was so beautiful and shocking. This kind of shock can only be experienced while sitting in the car, and photos can't record it.
Many times in the past, the most beautiful memories were always in the car.
One summer, I went to Sehanba and drove on the grassland road. I had a very wide view. The sky in front of me was connected to the earth, and the roadside was covered with pink gerberas and golden rape flowers. Such a scene has always been in my mind. Once I was driving at home and the weather was very similar to that day. The mood came back then and I felt relaxed and happy to drive.
It happens all the time. Images cannot be recorded. The eyes and mind will remember them for you. It was just as well that they suddenly erupted, and the touch was even greater than at first sight.
The hot springs in Changbaishan are high-temperature 82 hot springs, so all the way from the North Slope, you can see the Julong Hot Springs bursting at the seams
There are also various varieties of tall trees, which are actually more suited to the summer or fall.