How to raise a pudding hamster ah!

Hamsters are solitary animals, and only the male and female species are barely less likely to be cage-mated. Even if they are males and females, 80% of the cage fitting rate is in the wild. Not domesticated. Correctly speaking, domesticated males and females have less than 5% chance of bonding. Please don't make decisions without authorization because of comments such as "they look docile", "the owner said they can be raised together", "is it bad for males and females to be raised together", etc. Please don't raise many rats in one cage. For the health of rats, please keep one rat in one cage. Daily attention and choice 1, your hands are stained with the smell of food. Hamster's sense of smell is very sensitive, so if you have taken its favorite food, it is very likely to smell it out and think that you are food so it bites you. It is recommended to wash your hands before and after touching the hamster.2. Your hamster was originally bred in a pet store, and although the young hamster does not yet have a strong sense of territory, it often fights with other hamsters in the same cage, so it will be quite grumpy, and be wary and hostile to other creatures. It is recommended that you follow the timetable to get along with the hamster and eliminate its hostility. 3. You and the hamster are not yet familiar with each other, but you often manipulate it and scratch it with your hands, making it feel insecure. It is still recommended that you follow the schedule step by step to eliminate the hamster's hostility towards you. 4. The hamster's eyesight is not very good and it mistakes your fingers for food. When you touch the hamster on your hand, if you don't put your fingers together, the hamster will probably take your finger as food and bite down. However, the bite is usually not too heavy, but just a "kiss". So it's best to keep your fingers together when you put the hamster in your hand, but not too tightly, as too tightly can snag the hamster's feet. It's also best not to tease the hamster with your fingers to minimize the risk of being bitten. 5. Hamsters are very territorial, so if you have touched another hamster and gotten the scent of another hamster on your hand, the little hamster will have no problem expelling the unfamiliar hamster - your hand in fact! -Therefore, it is not uncommon to be bitten by mistake after petting another hamster. It is advisable to wash your hands after touching another hamster before touching your own. Many of you have been bitten by hamsters and asked if you need to get a rabies vaccine. Hamster bites can also be infected with rabies (probably unlikely, but because the death rate of rabies is 100%), it is recommended to treat the wound as soon as possible and inject rabies vaccine, and human rabies immunoglobulin if necessary. Wound treatment of the skin: All bites and scratches should be rinsed immediately or as soon as possible (about 15 minutes if conditions permit) with soapy water/detergent and plenty of water, and if available, the wound should be coated with an iodine-containing preparation or similar topical virucidal preparation. Antitetanus treatment and antibiotics, if appropriate, should be administered for deeper, more contaminated wounds to control infections other than rabies virus. If the bite wound is red and swollen or there are other uncomfortable symptoms, it should be checked in the hospital. How can you pick a healthier hamster? Here are a few ways for you to refer to: 1) Choose a hamster with good eyes and no eye boogers. 2) See if the hamster has a runny nose, don't pick it if it does. 3) Whether the ears are in good shape and there are no signs of being bitten. If there is, it means that the hamster is too weak or sick and has been bullied and bitten by other hamsters.4. The teeth are not sticking out, the color of the teeth is normal yellow, the color of the fur is light, and there is no hair loss or tumors.5. The tail must not have spots, and the vicinity of the stomach is not good, which means that the hamster may have diarrhea.6. Walking is normal or not, there is no rigidity, and the limbs are healthy or not is also the key point. If it looks good, there should be no problem.7, no urine stains on the buttocks, do not pick if there. Because it is likely to be sick.8. Whether the nose is bitten, whether red, swollen or even bleeding. If there is it means that this hamster is not too healthy and strong to be bullied by other hamsters.9. To choose a hamster that is glowing and spirited means that it is healthy. A floppy wilted poorly spirited mouse must be sick.10. The nose of the hamster should be pink and tender, the ears should be of the same size, the eyes should be watery, and the fur on the back should not have any bite marks. You can also observe whether the hamster is running around energetically, if so, it means that the mouse has a strong body and is not prone to illness. The last thing you need to do is to choose a hamster that you like, besides the color of the fur you should also consider seeing if it will be close to people. Generally speaking, Syrian hamsters and Carcharias are easy to get close to after a period of time, while Campbell's hamsters and Roborovski's hamsters are a bit more difficult to get close to, especially Roborovski's hamster is a very timid and sensitive animal, so it may take a bit more time to gain its trust in you. After mating, the female will be grumpy due to her pregnancy, so it is best not to touch her at this time to avoid being bitten by her. Except if she is docile enough to listen to you. Don't put male and female together during the maternity period. If you put male and female rats in the same cage, it may make the female rats nervous, leading to premature labor and a series of consequences. Feeding Taboos (1) Please do not feed food for human consumption, which is too high in salt and seasoned, and will increase the burden on the rat's body. Especially food like snacks. However, unprocessed roughage can be fed, corn and barley are allowed. (2) Please do not touch the sun directly. Rats are very afraid of heat, and summer is here, so please use a heat sink or marble to cool them down. Being exposed to the sun is just like you are at night and someone throws a flash bomb at you. (3) Please do not wash your hamster in water. It will give the hamster a cold, and in severe cases it may die. (4) Hamsters should not be kept in a cage. (5) If you are not psychologically prepared or financially capable, please do not combine female and male hamsters in a cage, as the reproduction ability of the rats is very considerable. (6) Please do not use feeds from unknown sources. Please discard and do not feed them to worms or mold! (7) Please do not let the rats drink raw water, let them drink boiled cold water, or mineral water or purified water. (8) Please do not use bamboo chopsticks, popsicles and other things to make the rats grind their teeth. Please use the special teething products and feeds for rats available on the market. (9) Do not use newspaper or tissue paper as bedding material. Newspaper has too much ink, and Kleenex contains bleach. (10) Do not keep your hamster in a space that is too small, but at least have a wheel and a drinking fountain. (11) Try to avoid letting the hamster in the air-conditioned room (or fan) blowing directly, or the temperature difference is too large environment, so as not to cause the rat to catch a cold. (12) Melon seeds, bread worms and other high-calorie food for rats love to eat, but can not be used as staple food, easy to cause fire, the staple food or the best brand of food on the market, part of the domestic food used with caution! Breeding environment optimal temperature 18 ~ 25 ℃, avoid direct sunlight or direct wind blowing to the place, but pay attention to ventilation. Do not be too close to the TV, stereo, computer, hamsters can hear the sound that humans can not hear, should avoid radiation and noisy. Summer: it is best not to open the air conditioner, because when you go out to turn off the air conditioner, and come into the house and open the air conditioner will make the temperature difference inside the house is too big, the hamster is very sensitive to the temperature, easy to catch a cold. Winter: don't put it outside, hamsters will pseudo hibernate because it's too cold. Spread more wood shavings and other bedding materials, and configure a wooden or grass hut for the hamster to keep warm. Or give more cotton for the hamster to make its own nest. Skimmed cotton is fine, preferably natural cotton. The easiest way to do this is to put the whole cage in a cardboard or plastic box, but keep an eye on the ventilation. Don't give them items woven from cotton threads to use as nests. It's warm but hamsters are burrowers by nature and they will chew the woven cotton items out of shape and burrow into them to sleep. However, some unbroken threads can become entangled in their feet or other parts of their body, and some can become dangerously entangled in their necks, causing them to suffocate and die. Therefore, do not put any threaded items inside. Medical Matters Precautions for Rat Mothers: (1) During the pregnancy of female rats, remember to separate the cage from the male rats. The male rats may eat the babies; most importantly, the male rats may still be in heat at this time, so if they are not separated from each other, the female rats that are still nursing will become pregnant again, which will affect their health and even their lifespan. The female rats still have the ability to store sperm, and there is a possibility that one litter will be followed by a second litter. Therefore, it is necessary to separate the male rats from the cage in time. (2) Please help the mother to take care of her body after the birth. The birth is very harmful to her body and her life, and if she does not have enough nutrients, she will eat some of her babies! It is better not to help the mother to supplement her body before giving birth, as the babies may be too big for the mother to deliver and die. You can use nutritious water, dried small fish, yellow mealworms, barley worms, boiled egg white and boiled chicken breast to give your mommy rat more nutrients. Remember: Please do not give egg yolks to the mice! (3) Please do not change the items in the mother's cage or the bedding material when the mice are 14 days old. It is easy to scare the mother mouse and cause her not to breastfeed her babies or to recycle (eat the mice). Do not touch the mice with your hands before they are weaned, or the mother mouse will recycle her babies. (4) The mice will open their eyes in about 10 days, and can be weaned away from their mother in 21 days, at which time, you can try to touch the babies! (5) It is best to wait until the mice are full term before feeding them dried breadworms. At this time, the baby's digestive system is not yet complete, please do not feed bread worms, as they will be easily indigested. Mothers will feed their babies on their own, so please do not feed them intentionally. (6) The roller must be removed when the mother is pregnant. Sometimes the mother will neglect breastfeeding in order to play with the roller. Checking the body (1) Teeth: Mice and rats' incisors are constantly growing, sometimes the teeth are too long, which will prevent them from eating. At this time, you can cut the teeth by yourself, please use a small animal tooth cutting utensil. If you are afraid to cut the teeth, you can bring them to the doctor for cutting. (2) Aroma gland: male hamsters only have, in the middle of the abdomen, there is a yellow grain, that is the aroma gland. Bear hamsters have scent glands on both sides of the hindquarters, and when male rats are in heat, the smell here will be especially heavy. Sometimes the scent glands may get too much and become clogged, so remember to clean them out with saline regularly! If there is too much, please take them to the veterinary hospital and ask the doctor to clean them. (3) Eyes: If the rat is healthy, its eyes should be very bright and shiny, but if they are red, oily or have eye droppings, it is time to pay attention to them and take them to the doctor. (4) Poop: The rat's poop should be a little hard, the size of a grain of rice, black and odorless. Sometimes it may turn green or red, don't be too nervous, please recall if there is any green or red color in the rat's feed, if there is, it is normal for the poop to be green. If there is, it is normal for the stool to be green. If the stool is soft or has a foul odor, please send it to the doctor as soon as possible. (5) Buccal sacs: Sometimes you have to pay attention to the buccal sacs to see if the food has been eaten, if not, please don't give them any more food. If the food in the bursa is rotten and smelly, it may lead to bursitis. Regularly watch the cheek pouches for the odor of rotting food and help him to remove the food from the cheek pouches at regular intervals. Use a cotton swab to probe into the cheek pouches carefully and do not rotate it! Mouse will spit out all the food in the cheek pouches on his own. Or, using saline, use a feeding syringe (with the needle removed!) Stick a feeding syringe (with the needle removed!) into the buccal sac to rinse it out. (6) COAT COLOR: Rat's coat is usually soft and shiny. If there is any hair loss, please note whether it is an allergy or skin disease and bring it to the doctor for examination as soon as possible. (7) Body temperature: The body temperature of rats is usually a little higher than ours by touching with our hands, but it is not obvious. If it is obvious that the body temperature of rats is too high, please send them to the hospital immediately, as it is very likely to be the precursor of heatstroke! Breeding Control Triple Pair Analysis Triple + Triple = Triple Triple Triple + Triple Triple (with Purple Barn gene) = Triple Triple + Triple Triple (with Purple Barn gene) Triple + Purple Barn = Triple Triple Triple (with Purple Barn gene) + Purple Barn Triple Triple (with Purple Barn gene) + Triple Triple (with Purple Barn gene) = Triple Triple+ Triple (with Purple Barn gene) + Purple Barn Purple Barn + Purple Barn = Purple Barn Silver Fox + Silver Fox = Triple Triple Triple + Silver Fox + Purple Barn (Endorsement: the Silver Fox is a (dominant) gene. When Silver Fox is paired with Silver Fox, the dominant gene of the pair will be absorbed by the mother, so the chance of the mother giving birth to a Silver Fox will be lowered, which will also affect the overall pregnancy rate of the mother). Silver Fox + Tri-line = Tri-line + Silver Fox with darker dorsal line (Tri-line Silver Fox) Silver Fox + Purple Barn = Tri-line + Purple Barn + Silver Fox with lighter dorsal line (Purple Barn Silver Fox) (Note: If the Silver Fox has the Tri-line gene, it will be as shown in the table above. If not, there are only purple silo and silver fox) Pudding + Pudding = three lines + purple silo + Pudding (the ratio can not be determined, Pudding's genetic situation should be similar to the silver fox, that is, the Pudding with the Pudding will reduce the chances of the birth of the Pudding!) Three lines + Pudding = Three lines + Pudding Three lines (with Purple Barn gene) + Pudding = Three lines + Three lines (with Purple Barn gene) + Purple Barn + Pudding Purple Barn + Pudding (with three lines of gene) = Three lines + Purple Barn + Pudding (such as Pudding in the body of the third line of the gene, there will only be Purple Barn and Pudding) Silver Fox + Pudding = all the Gakkarias fur color, the ratio is not certain. Milk Tea + Milk Tea = Milk Tea Milk Tea and other varieties with the equivalent of Purple Barn, Milk Tea and other varieties with Milk Tea is very little, if you pay attention to the varieties of "good", it is recommended that the Milk Tea with Milk Tea on the Golden Fox, the form is similar to the Silver Fox, Pudding, you can refer to the Silver Fox, Pudding's pairing table! The above table for most people enough to use, here silver fox, pudding, and golden fox data is more complex, the following list of these three more detailed information. Interested can refer to: (Note, because the silver fox, pudding, gold fox gene form is very similar. Here to use the "party rat" instead of the above three coat colors of rats and mice) three lines of party rat (with purple warehouse gene) + three lines = three lines + three lines (with purple warehouse gene) + three lines of party rat + three lines of party rat (with purple warehouse gene) three lines of party rat (with purple warehouse gene) + three lines (with purple warehouse gene) = three lines + three lines (with purple warehouse gene) + three lines of party rat + three lines of party rat (with purple warehouse gene) + three lines of party rat (with purple warehouse gene) + Purple Barn + Purple Barn Paddy Mouse Triple Line Paddy Mouse (with Purple Barn Gene) + Purple Barn = Triple Line (with Purple Barn Gene) + Purple Barn + Triple Line Paddy Mouse (with Purple Barn Gene) + Purple Barn Paddy Mouse Purple Barn Paddy Mouse + Triple Line = Triple Line (with Purple Barn Gene) + Triple Line Paddy Mouse (with Purple Barn Gene) Purple Barn Paddy Mouse + Triple Line (with Purple Barn Gene) = Triple Line (with Purple Barn Gene) + Purple Barn + Triple Line Paddy Mouse (with Purple Barn gene) + Purple Barn Paddy Mouse Purple Barn Paddy Mouse + Purple Barn = Purple Barn Paddy Mouse + Purple Barn First Line Pair Analysis First Line + First Line = First Line (+Flower Barn) (Flower Barn will come out of either parent with the pattern gene) First Line + Black Bear = First Line + Flower Barn First Line = Amber = First Line = Flower Barn + Purple Coat First Line + Snow Globe = First Line = Flower Barn First Line = Purple Coat First Line = Flower Barn Flower Barn Pair Analysis (all colors) Flower Barn + First Line = First line + flower barn Flower barn + flower barn = first line + flower barn (flower barn, amber patches, cows are all possible) Flower barn + black bear = first line + flower barn Flower barn + snow globe = first line + flower barn Flower barn + amber = first line + flower barn (possible amber patches) Flower barn + violets = first line + flower barn Black bear Pairing Analysis Black Bear + First Line = First Line + Flower Barn Black Bear + Flower barn = First Line = Flower barn Black Bear + amber = First Line = Flower barn + violets Black Bear + Snowball = one line + flower barn (+Black Bear) (If snowball has black bear gene, there is a chance of black bear) Black Bear + Black Bear = Black Bear Black Bear + Violet = one line + flower barn + Black Bear + Violet Amber Pairing Analysis Amber + one line = one line = one line + flower barn Amber + flower barn = one line = one line = one line = one line = one line = one line + flower barn Amber + Black Bear = one line = one line = one line = one line = one line + flower barn Amber + Snowball = one line = one line = one line = one line = one line = one line = one line = one line = one line + flower barn + amber + violet Violet snowball pairing analysis snowball + first line = first line + flower barn snowball + flower barn = first line + flower barn snowball + black bear = first line + flower barn (+ black bear) (if snowball with black bear gene, there is a chance of black bear) snowball + amber = first line + flower barn snowball + violet = first line + flower barn snowball + snowball = snowball (seems like this kind of ss will be defective) violet pairing analysis violet + violet = violet Violet+1st line=1st line+flower barn Violet+Amber=1st line+flower barn+Amber+Violet+Black Bear1st line+flower barn+Black Bear+Violet+Snowball=1st line+flower barn Lastly, there are a couple of special pairings Violet+Black Bear=Blue Mouse Violet+Amber=Purple AmberBlack Bear+Violet+Amber=Red Eyed Lilac (Alternate Breeding for Several Generations)Breeding ThingsBaths for MiceMiceMice should be bathed or not? Do you want to bathe your rat? Bathing! This is a good idea, but rats can't enjoy bathing as much as humans. It is easy for rats to catch a cold or even die if their fur is wet! So please use bath grit to bathe your rat ! Bear hamsters will take a slobber bath on their own, and their pores are larger than those of pygmy hamsters, so they don't need to be bathed with grit because it can lead to clogged pores and folliculitis. If your rat gets sick, it's a sad and troublesome thing to do! Pet medicine is still focused on kittens, dogs, horses, and other companions that have been with humans for thousands of years, but rats and mice have only become popular in recent years. We still have a lot of research to do on rats and mice, but we only know the treatment of some major diseases. Rats and mice have a small body and fast metabolism, so it is difficult to detect signs of illness in the early stages, and usually by the time it is detected, the disease is already quite serious, which leads to treatment problems and may not necessarily be curable. What's more, for the above reasons, there are very few veterinarians who can treat rats and mice, and it is even more difficult to find a veterinarian who specializes in this field. Therefore, the best way is to do a good job of preventive health care in daily life, so as to prevent rats and mice from getting sick. If the owner is too lazy, the rat will easily get sick! If the environment is dirty, it is easy to breed bacteria, or attract flies, cockroaches and mites to visit, and bring some germs as "companions", then the rats will suffer. Nest owners are advised to clean the water container, feed bowl and poop every day, change the damp wood shavings regularly, and clean the cage weekly and disinfect it with hot water. Wash your hands before and after playing with your rat. Probiotics are necessary to maintain gastrointestinal health as domestic pets consume processed food for a long time, and the intake of various food additives will continue to disrupt the balance of the gastrointestinal flora of pets, making them susceptible to gastrointestinal disorders such as constipation, diarrhea, indigestion, gastroenteritis, etc. Probiotics are live microorganisms that can be used to maintain gastrointestinal health! Probiotics are live microorganisms that confer health and a variety of benefits when consumed in sufficient quantities. Among them, Gudeng Probiotics uses Danish probiotics as the main ingredient to take care of the health of your pet's gastrointestinal tract and is more conducive to the full absorption of nutrients. Nutritionally balanced and diversified food to feed rats and mice, can not be lazy to pour some ready-made feed on the matter, rats and mice to eat well to have resistance! Drinking water is also an area that nest owners tend to neglect. Drinking water should be changed every day, or changed if it is contaminated. In areas where tap water is not safe to drink, please give rats drinking water for human consumption, as they don't drink much of it anyway. Stable Temperature and Humidity Most rats come from dry areas, so please note that the cage should be placed in a dry and quiet place to avoid moisture (so change the wood shavings often). Rats and mice are sensitive to temperature. In the wild, rats and mice live in holes in the ground, which have natural thermoregulation function, so they should maintain a stable temperature. In the weather with big temperature difference and in winter, please pay attention to keep warm to prevent rats and mice from pseudo hibernation. Generally speaking, domesticated rats will not hibernate, but will sleep longer than usual. Avoid stress and tension Rats are sensitive by nature (e.g. Roborovski's hamster is particularly timid), and when kept in artificial environments, they will easily feel stress and tension, which seems to be the same as human beings, and stress and tension often lead to gastrointestinal discomfort, dysentery, and even gastric ulcers. Don't play too much with hamsters, such as chasing, forcing them to jump, throwing them in unfamiliar environments, etc. We may think it is fun, but the hamster may feel pain and fear. The first step to solve the stress problem of hamsters is to provide sufficient space for them to exercise. Give them a large cage, put them on a running wheel, and let them out to play every day. The staple food must be professional rat food, which is available in common Taobao stores. If there is really no way, you can make your own rat food, materials: wheat wheat kernel barley with hulls barley flakes oatmeal oatmeal rice sorghum rice buckwheat rice with hulls buckwheat corn grains red corn wild lentils red sorghum green soybean petals mung beans pumpkin seeds (a little bit) red peanuts (a little bit) (but the self-complementary food than the professional rat food nutrition is not comprehensive, please try to use the professional rat food) branded snacks common branded snacks brand has Makar, Junbao, Weta, Belgian food dosage recommendations. Kraft, Belgian food dosage suggests a week of each snack a small piece of safety hazards of raising hamsters is not without any hidden dangers, but as long as you ensure the hygiene and cleanliness of the hamster's residence, it can be completely avoided. Bubonic plague: hamsters don't have bubonic plague, its physiology is different from that of rats. And the Black Death isn't some cold or something like that that is found everywhere. Black Death virus only exists in the United States and a few other countries in the laboratory; but also note that the plague is not absent in nature, but the density of the pathogen does not meet the requirements for the occurrence of an epidemic, so a single mouse plague is still possible, but do not be afraid of the state of domestication, as long as the probability of plague does not occur in contact with the wild species of rodents is almost non-existent. Listeriosis: Listeria monocytogenes is widespread in nature, not easy to be frozen and thawed, can tolerate high osmotic pressure, in the soil, surface water, sewage, wastewater, rotting vegetables are the presence of this bacterium, so the animal is very easy to ingest the bacterium, and through the oral cavity - feces pathway for transmission. Therefore, it is necessary to maintain the hygiene of rats and mice and their living environment, which is the most basic common sense and requirements for keeping pets. Hemorrhagic fever: There are many pathogens that cause hemorrhagic fever, one of which is usually transmitted from infected non-human primates (e.g., green monkeys) to humans, and then from the patient to other healthy people, an example of which is the horrific African "Ebola Hemorrhagic Fever", but rats and mice will not be affected by the disease, and the infected area is limited to Africa and has occurred several times in the past. *** on the occurrence of a number of times will not be in the outbreak; the second is the rat and mouse infected, which in our country in the 80's and 90's is still very common, for example, ate by the wild rodents (the rodent is a scientific name, that is, generally seen rats, rather than referring to domesticated rats) contaminated food, but the same, as long as to ensure that their own rats and mice do not have contact with the outside world of the wild rats, the chances of its is almost zero, can be seen, to maintain the rats and mice and mice live in the This shows that it is very important to maintain the hygiene of rats and their living environment! Rabies: Almost all warm-blooded animals can be infected with the rabies virus, but under natural conditions, the main susceptible animals are canines, cats, skunks, raccoons, rodents and pteropods, as well as certain domestic animals, including dogs, cats, foxes, wolves, jackals, leopards, raccoons, mongooses, skunks, bats and so on. So as rodents, rats and mice can be infected with the rabies virus, it's just that fully domesticated ones are relatively less likely to have it. Children should be raised with the help of their parents: Parents who raise hamsters for their young children should not just let their children be happy and indulge them in all that they do to the rats and mice, but they should cultivate their children's love, care and perseverance in the process of raising pets. Therefore, parents should instruct their children on how to care for and look after their rats according to the hand rules for keeping rats. Basic equipment cage: large space (at least 30cm long and 20cm wide). Hamster living supplies (12 pictures) The rat's feet can easily get stuck and cause fractures, or break out of the cage. And the paint that falls off is not safe for the rat (the rat has to chew the cage). If you buy an imported cage, used ones are usually between 50 and 100. Brand new ones range from 100 to 300. (Newbie recommended Lux) 30 to 50 dollars. Or some rat friends DIY organizer is also good, the whole set down to 100 can be done, of course, except for the beauty. Unless you have the ability to do it. Rat toilet: the rat will set point to go to the toilet (rat is very like clean little animals, but not every very good behavior Oh) use them this habit, clean up time will be much more convenient. Otherwise, it will make their urine everywhere, and the cage will be full of smell in a day or two. You can buy some plastic products filled with rat sand, or buy customized rat toilets for rats. In order to make rats develop the habit of defecating at regular intervals, you can use cotton swabs to put their feces in the rat toilet, rats are very sensitive to smell. This can cost anywhere from a few dollars to tens of dollars. Water bottle and food bowl: a dozen dollars or so can be done. (Imported cages usually come with water bottles and food bowls.) Rollers: basically, they come with the cage. If you are a DIY rat lover, you need to buy your own, or make one yourself. Remember to buy a seamless one, never buy the kind with a seam in the center, the rat runs very fast. In case a calf is stuck inside, it is easy to fracture. Roller is generally divided into non-silent and silent two kinds, the price of this thing is also from five dollars to dozens of dollars. Hut: rats are nocturnal animals, so like to sleep during the day, so you have to prepare a can hide East to them as a place to sleep, from the small cardboard box (note that rats are generally not very honest, he will break out of jail, remember that it is best not to use the cardboard box, he ran away on the back of the bad) to the rats customized for the exquisite mouse house can be (some imported cages with a two-story lattice floor, you can when sleeping and place). Prices range from a few dollars to tens of dollars. Feed: imported feed a packet of about 30 to 60 yuan, you can eat for a long time. Some of them are labeled to remove the effect of urine odor. It is forbidden to use pigeon or feed store's own mix of grains, the nutrition does not meet the requirements of rats. Don't think they can eat and absorb anything like house mice, the hygiene is not very good, there will be rice worms or other moths in order to prevent insects, the mouth of the mouse food should be tightly sealed, but if you really don't have the financial ability to buy too expensive imported feeds, please buy the regular mouse food on the market. Do not give rats snacks for human consumption. Bedding material: It is recommended to use wood shavings and paper wool in winter, and summer sand and cat litter (except crystal cat litter) in summer. Imported poplar wood is better but also more expensive. One package will cost nearly 50 dollars. Pine wood many people use, from 5 to more than 20 yuan have, try to pick the amount of dust is small (that is, you change the wood shavings will not be snotty kind), other kinds of paper cotton, corn burgundy, wood shavings sand and so on. Cat litter has the function of sterilization, cooler, recommended for summer use. A small bag of 5 to 10 dollars. Bathing sand: a bag of about 5 yuan. It can be used for about half a year and can be recycled. It should be replaced when there is an odor, and if it is wet with urine just after a new one is put on, you can take out the wet area separately. Some people will use cat litter instead of bath sand, I do not agree with this practice, cat litter used as rat toilet sand works pretty well. However, the particles are too large for rats to get rid of the bacteria on their bodies. (Remember to never bathe rats with water, rats are naturally afraid of water. (Remember not to bathe the rat with water, as rats are naturally afraid of water and may die after being washed). Drinking water: use cold boiled water, it is best to feed pure water, if possible, you can also buy a water dispenser, so that the rat will not touch the water, rats are afraid of water (female rats should be fed properly during lactation). Teething supplies: there are special teething wood and mineral salt, but rats may not like them, and teething snacks will be more popular. Prices range from 3 to 10 dollars, and please buy hamster-specific branded teething treats. Don't use non-washable chopsticks, popsicle sticks and the like. ！！！！ Some rats will bite the cage to sharpen their teeth, but it will cause the rat's teeth to bite incorrectly, and it will be troublesome if it accidentally eats the paint on the cage.9 Living EnvironmentEdit A Reassuring EnvironmentA Reassuring Environment is something you need to think about in the hamster's shoes, is it time to change the wood shavings? Is it cold? Is it hungry? If you can put yourself in the hamster's shoes, your hamster will be able to trust you, and you will be able to live happily with your hamster! Every hamster has a different personality, so keep your hamster in accordance with its personality so that it can live a good life. There are three types of hamster homes: cages (usually made of iron), plastic cages (or acrylic), and aquariums (glass). These types of cages are ordinary and luxurious, and no matter which type they are, they need to be equipped with a hut, a drinking fountain, a food dish, and a running wheel, etc. These basic things are indispensable, or how can they eat and sleep properly? Bedding, running wheel safety first warm wood shavings or pasture is a good hamster warm supplies, summer can be used for small animals special pad sand. Excellent wood shavings, pasture and bedding sand, its drinking water can be used in small suction bottles, timely replacement of bedding can deodorize and maintain a clean and hygienic environment. Toy items, such as running wheels, preferably without gaps so as not to get stuck in the hamster's feet, as well as huts (objects that can be used to settle down), teeter-totters, etc. .... You can choose wooden ones, which will not be a problem after the hamster gnaws on them, and will also prevent the hamster's teeth from overgrowing. Countermeasures for winter and summer seasons To make the hamster comfortable and live at ease you should always pay attention to the weather changes, and especially in these two seasons you must make sure that the hamster is comfortable. For hamsters, the heat is worse than the cold. Hamsters originally live in the desert, so why would they be afraid of the heat? That's because hamsters rest in cool tunnels during the day and come out at night. In summer, plastic cages or aquariums can become like steamers, so you can change the cage to a more ventilated one. It is also important to place the cage in a location where it will not be exposed to direct sunlight, such as by a window. Hamsters in direct sunlight can cause dehydration, or other lesions, or even death. Pay attention to ventilation, but don't give the hamster air-conditioning. Electric fans are fine, but generally speaking, hamsters don't like to be blown by the wind. If you don't have such conditions, you can also provide cooling boards or igloos to help hamsters cool down and spend the summer safely. In terms of the southern climate in winter is not a big problem, just pay attention to the warmth, and remember to add a sufficient amount of cotton wool, it is good, the north and other cold winter places may be able to use to get the electric heater for small animals.