MOLTING: The frequency of molting is based on the growth rate and health of the snake, molting is likely to occur every 3-6 weeks. Burmese pythons will refuse to eat during the molt.
Cultivate your snake to have good feeding habits, when your snake is over 1.8 meters in length, you can move him inside a snake box at feeding time before feeding him dead mice and letting him discover his prey, and after some time, your snake will no longer expect food inside the cage. This will avoid incidents where you, who are eager to feed, are mistaken for food by the snake.
Make a record of feeding and health. Perhaps your python is more actively feeding at night and in unlit areas, while perhaps needing a box that serves as an ambush for prey, for hiding. And try feeding different types and sizes of mice. If your snake refuses to eat and begins to lose weight, you would be wise to contact your local reptile veterinarian or an experienced reptile keeper for a solution.
Breeding: after 1.5-4 years after birth, they become mature individuals. Males are ready to breed when they grow to 2m-3m and females to 2.5m or more. In captivity, the breeding season for Burmese pythons is November-March each year, during which time they stop feeding back. Before breeding, you must make sure that your python is healthy and that there is enough space; during the rutting season, keepers can create suitable environments to encourage mating: shorten the daylight hours to 8-10 hours, and lower the evening temperature to below 21°C and the daytime temperature to below 26°C. Keep female and male snakes together. Increasing the humidity of the environment and misting with a spray can can potentially encourage mating. Depending on the size of the female, lay around 20-80 eggs. During incubation, the temperature is maintained at 31-32°C (ideal) and hatching occurs between 55-70 days, depending on the temperature.
Common Problems:
1) Respiratory infections. Appearance of large amounts of mucus in the nose and mouth with open mouth breathing. Infections are mainly caused by inappropriate environment: low temperatures, dry air, dehydration, stress and parasites. Treatment: raise the temperature to 32°C and also eliminate stress on your snake. If the situation persists, take him to the vet for antibiotics.
2) Mouth rot due to ulcers or injury to the mouth. Treatment: Increase the temperature to 32°C, clean the infected area with 5% hydrogen peroxide, pick out the carrion and apply Betadine 2X daily. if the situation persists, seek veterinary help.
3) Dehydration caused by molting in dry conditions. Causes: improper temperatures, disease, stress. Keep your snake in a moist area during the molt, e.g., saucer with water, wet towel.
4) Heat injury and abdominal rot. Cause: your snake is in direct contact with excessive heat and unsanitary conditions. Available treatments for 2). Treat the injured tissue and correct the inappropriate environment.
5) Extracorporeal parasites, such as flatworms. Often found on snakes caught in the wild, located between the scales and sucking blood. Treatment: apply petroleum jelly until the parasite dies within a few days, after which it is removed by hand.
6) Internal parasites, especially in individuals caught in the wild. Symptoms: lethargy, vomiting, refusal to eat, little activity, take fresh stool samples to a veterinary hospital for testing before treatment