Yihe came back without looking at the garden.

I remember studying in Beijing in the first year. 1995. One winter day, I rowed an ice car on the frozen Kunming Lake in the Summer Palace. In the distance, Yufeng Tower stands on Yuquan Mountain, simple and hazy. Behind him, the Buddha pavilion is higher than the sky in Wanshou Mountain.

Later, due to work reasons, I visited relatives and friends and accompanied others to the Summer Palace several times. Later, the Park Year Card was issued, and the Summer Palace was free, making it more convenient to go.

Mr. Lao She said, "You must live in Beiping in autumn. I don't know what heaven looks like, but from my life experience, autumn in Peiping is heaven. " Lily, Wendy, Jessica and four of my friends came to the Summer Palace this autumn.

I have seen the scenery of the Summer Palace in spring, summer, autumn and winter, walked through different routes and experienced its dawn and sunset. At first, I only saw Wanshou Mountain, Kunming Lake and the promenade in the Summer Palace. Later, I learned more about the cultural history of the Summer Palace. Gradually, the Summer Palace is no longer a tourist attraction for me, but a familiar and unfamiliar garden.

I am familiar with it because of the seven palace gates in the southeast and northwest, except for the west gate, the other six have already passed more than once. These seven gates include the East Palace Gate, the North Palace Gate, the Wenchang Courtyard Gate (also known as the East Gate, which can only enter but not exit), the newly-built Palace Gate, the South Ruyi Gate, the North Ruyi Gate and the West Gate. Entering from different doors, there will be different tour routes.

It's strange because there are unexpected surprises every time, which makes me wonder if I have really been to the Summer Palace and really know it.

The East Palace Gate is the main entrance. On the door hung the horizontal plaque of "Summer Palace" inscribed by Emperor Guangxu himself. Surrounded by gold-plated Kowloon characters, the momentum is extraordinary, which is the highest standard of royal production. There are some seals in the apartment. The first three side by side are the seals of Empress Dowager Cixi. They are Peace and Kindness, Treasure of Empress Dowager Cixi and A Little Plum Blossom Heart. There is a seal on the right side of the plaque. Above is "the treasure of Guangxu imperial pen", and below is "Love the sun, grow in spring".

Love for the Sun was first seen in thirteen volumes of Love for the Sun and Filial Piety written by Yang Xiong, a native of Shu County in the Western Han Dynasty. "Love the sun" means loving mother. "Changchun" means health and longevity. Love the sun and spring is the hope that Guangxu's foster mother Cixi will live a long life.

The emperor's seal has always been above average, but since the death of Emperor Xianfeng in Jehol in the Qing Dynasty, Cixi's son, Emperor Tongzhi, began to ascend to the throne at a young age, and Cixi has always been in charge of politics. Emperor Tongzhi died of illness when he was young, leaving no children. Cixi succeeded the young Guangxu as emperor for the continuation of her political power, and she continued to listen to politics. It can also be seen from this plaque that Cixi's position at that time was supreme, and Guangxu had been pushed aside.

There is a tall archway outside Dongmen Square, with the word "Han Xu" written on one side and "Wonderful Show" written on the other. This is the imperial pen of Emperor Qianlong. A few years ago, several bus stops were located here, which was a mess. The Beijing Municipal People's Congress repeatedly proposed to relocate the bus station, which was not realized until last year. Although there is no site, vehicles still pass by here, which brings hidden dangers to cultural relics protection. I hope that one day, the traffic can be diverted and there will be peace outside the East Palace.

The implication means that water and sky are the same color, which means that Kunming Lake is vast and connected with the sky. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, many poets have written poems with empty meanings. Meng Haoran once wrote in a letter from Dongting Lake to Premier Zhang that "the lake here is clear in August, and it is in harmony with the sky". Weng Sen wrote in "Reading Music Last Night" that the leaves in front of the court rang, "I don't feel that the business is full of sparse forests, and the silence is empty"; Ouyang Xiu wrote in the book "The Bitan Wind in the Dragon Pond of the Guohe River determines the culvert": "The Bitan wind determines the culvert, and the shore where sacred objects are hidden does not dry up." These are descriptions of water and the sky. "Wonder" means casting a net, and wonder show means that the Summer Palace has all kinds of landscapes and beautiful scenery. This archway opened the curtain of the Summer Palace's scenic lake and mountain.

Entering from the East Palace Gate is Renshou Hall, which used to be a place to handle government affairs and meet foreign ministers. If you come in from the newly-built palace gate, you can see the bronze bull on the bank of Hunan in Kunming and the 17-hole bridge connecting Nanhu Island.

The theme of the Summer Palace has always been inseparable from "longevity". Emperor Qianlong built Qingyi Garden for his mother's 60th birthday. He imitated the story of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty digging Kunming Pool to practice the water army, renamed this lake called "West Lake" Kunming Lake, and piled the mud dug in the lake on the edge of Hubei Province and renamed it Wanshou Mountain. Seen from the air, Wanshou Mountain is bat-shaped, and Kunming Lake is peach-shaped.

This time, I chose to enter from Beigongmen, and where to leave has not yet been decided. We take Metro Line 4 to Beigongmen Station, exit D in the southwest, and walk 200 meters west to Beigongmen. The entrance is Dashiqiao, and Suzhou River surrounds Suzhou Street below. Tickets need to be purchased separately. We have been there before, and there are some shops in the style of ancient buildings by the river, which are not very interesting. Overlooking the stone bridge

Go straight ahead and we come to the back of Wanshou Mountain. The architecture of the four Buddhist continents comes into view.

During the Qianlong period, the national strength of the Qing Dynasty reached its peak, the country was rich and the national treasury was abundant, but the country had not yet achieved reunification. In the ruling policy of the Qing Dynasty, the support and close relationship for Tibetan Buddhism were reflected.

Before entering the customs, they used the method of combining Manchuria and Mongolia to deal with the Ming Dynasty. After entering the customs, in order to consolidate the rule, the Qing Dynasty used Lamaism to stimulate their thoughts and feelings based on the similar cultural, religious and historical backgrounds of Manchu, Mongolian and Tibetan, and tried to control the border areas through the upper lamas. The four continents have adopted the combination of Chinese and Tibetan architecture.

The northern part of the spirit world of Xumi Mountain is a Buddhist temple in China, and the southern part of Zongyin Pavilion in Xiang Yan is modeled after the Sanye Temple in Tibet. The whole building closely combines Tibetan shutters, red terraces, four-color Lama Pagoda with the palace buildings in China, and at the same time, integrates the idea of kingship into the religious buildings symbolizing the Buddhist world view. The combination of painting on the roof and six-character mantra perfectly blends Chinese culture and Tibetan culture.

As soon as Jessica saw the towering hall, she couldn't wait to start shooting mode. As a beautiful woman who can draw Chinese painting, she is responsible for taking pictures when we go out. The unique composition and precise use of light add a lot of color to our photos.

This group of Buddhist buildings was burned by the United States and France in 1860. In the 14th year of Guangxu, Xiang Yan Zongyin Pavilion only built one floor on the original site, and other places were still in ruins. From 65438 to 0980, the state allocated funds to repair four continents, eight small continents and four Brahma pagodas. From 20 10 to 20 12, the state carried out large-scale repairs and restored the historical features of buildings on four continents during the Guangxu period.

The Journey to the West described the world like this for the first time: "The world is divided into four continents: Shenzhou in the east, Hezhou in the west, Shanbu in the south and Luzhou in the north." According to Buddhist teachings, the center of the world is Mount Sumi, surrounded by seven golden mountains, and beyond the seven golden mountains is the vast Aral Sea, where four continents are scattered.

Walking up the steps, you can see a hall with yellow-green glazed tiles on the wall, which are colorful and magnificent. There are more than 1000 buddhas with infinite longevity embedded in the outer wall of the temple, which is very eye-catching. This hall is a masonry structure, without beams and columns, commonly known as the beamless hall. There is a tall Guanyin Buddha statue in the middle of the hall. There are Manjusri Bodhisattva in the east and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva in the west. The murals on the roof are decorated with stained glass. This is the religious building at the top of Wanshou Mountain-Wisdom Sea. The name of the Hall of Wisdom comes from "Infinite Life Sutra": "The Buddha comes to the sea of wisdom, and the gods are boundless", which indicates the highest realm of Buddhist practice.

Bypassing the sea of wisdom, we went all the way east. When we arrived at the promenade, people were busy. The tour guide holds flags from time to time and tells you stories about colorful paintings in the promenade. We walked east along the promenade. On the way to Liujiating, Wendy suddenly stopped to ask me the pronunciation and meaning of a plaque. I looked up and saw four golden words, "lush vegetation". I looked it up in Baidu, and "Ben Hua" is pronounced as "Bihu ā", which means colorful flowers. Hanging in the Liu Jia Pavilion, which represents spring, it depicts spring and blooming flowers in the garden. This article is quoted from "Wen Xin Diao Long, The Original Way First". "Clouds and colors are more wonderful than painters; The grass is fragrant, and the skillful craftsman is nothing strange. " It means that the colorful colors formed by clouds have surpassed the painter's wonderful pen; Flowers and trees produce colorful flowers, and you don't need to count on the skillful hands of brocade craftsmen. There is a colorful painting "Peach Blossom Garden" on it, which has the beauty of a paradise.

The promenade is always crowded with people, wave after wave. Some people came in from Yuemen Gate in the east, some from Zhang Shiting in the west, and some came down from Wanshou Mountain and came in the middle. If you want to visit the promenade leisurely, you must come in from the East Palace Gate when the garden opens at 6: 30, watch the morning light pass through the colonnade, cast the shadow of the grille on the ground, float and sink in the light and shadow, and colorful paintings are ready to come. At that moment, life now was like a dream.

We have already seen Leshou Hall and Renshou Hall, and continue to travel south along the East Embankment. Osmanthus fragrans in Wenchang Garden is full of fragrance, so it is no wonder that Li Qingzhao wrote that Osmanthus fragrans "why light blue and deep red are the first among flowers". Continue southbound, cross a flat bridge, and the Zhichun Pavilion on Zhichun Island is occupied. Overlooking Zhichun Island, the island looks like a duck. Kunming Lake thaws every spring, so it is called "Zhichun Pavilion". According to legend, this name comes from the famous sentence in Su Shi's poem "Night Scene of the Spring River in Hui Chong", "There are three or two peach blossoms outside the bamboo, and the duck prophet warms the river".

This is the northeast corner of Kunming Lake, which is a good place for sightseeing. Looking from the rocks on the shore, the Buddhist pavilion on Wanshou Mountain in the north is majestic and silent, and the western hills in the west are endless and layered. Looking south, Nanhu Island is closely connected with the 17-hole bridge, and the outline of the shore stands like a pavilion. The island bridge and pavilion are connected, and the overall shape is like a turtle with a long neck. The theme of longevity is hidden everywhere in the Summer Palace.

We stayed here and took many photos. The lakes and mountains are fascinating. It's lunch time, and the fast food restaurant near the exhibition hall is crowded with people. Wendy and I are going to buy a bottle of water, but it's not our turn at all. I really have no intention of waiting, so I have to give up.

Go straight along the east bank. Lily, they want to move on and find a secluded place for a picnic. We agreed in advance that Lily would bring bread and cooked food from Daoxiang Village, Wendy would bring cucumbers and bananas, Jessica would bring yogurt and plum, and I would bring apples, pears and chocolates. Along the way, we ate some cucumbers and bananas to reduce the burden.

The lion on the 17-hole bridge silently calls us. I insist on going up to see the lion. This bridge was built in imitation of Lugou Bridge in Jin Dynasty. But there are more stone lions on it than on the Lugou Bridge. Legend has it that one year Emperor Qianlong and Ji Xiaolan and his party came to Lugou Bridge and saw lions of different sizes and shapes on Lugou Bridge. They asked how many lions there were in Ji Xiaolan. Ji Xiaolan didn't know, and casually said, "There is a saying among the people that there are countless lions on the Lugou Bridge." In the Ming Dynasty, the Stone Lion of Lugouqiao was also recorded in A Brief Introduction to the Scenery of the Imperial Capital. "The stone pillar has a stigma, lion milk, care and redundancy, and numerous achievements." Qianlong didn't believe it, so he sent two eunuchs to count from both ends, and the numbers reported were different. Gan Long was very angry. He personally counted it three times, but it was different, so he had to return to the palace in silence.

Lions are called "auspicious beasts" among the people and can settle down. Emperor Qianlong loved poetry, painting and rare treasures, and always had a soft spot for lions. There are more than 500 lions on the 17-hole bridge, more than those on the Lugou Bridge.

After crossing the 17-hole bridge, we came to Nanhu Island. There is Guangrun Yu Ling Temple on Nanhu Island, commonly known as Longwang Temple, which is a place for rain. Guangrun is the title of Song Zhenzong, and Kunming Lake is also called West Lake in Ming Dynasty, so Longwang Temple is called Guangrun Temple. When Cixi enters the park by water, she will pass the Yixiu Bridge near Nanruyimen, disembark at Guangrun Yu Ling Temple Pier, burn incense in the temple, and then take a boat to her bedroom Leshou Hall.

Jessica found a good view of taking pictures at the pier here again. We sat on the deck in turn, with the slender 17 span bridge and the symmetrical pavilion behind us.

Go to the job building and the courtyard of Lianhuixuan, which is quiet and pleasant. Lily said to eat here. This is really a wonderful place! Two wisteria plants under the porch are tightly intertwined. On Lianhuixuan, there is a plaque named "Hongfeng Cai Yi" from Liu Xie's "Wen Xin Diao Long Time Series": "Hongfeng Cai Yi, dare to write with a short pen". He was full of praise for the literary works of the Southern Dynasties, and dared not comment on them. "Red" means greatness, and "Yi" means beauty. When Cixi gave birth to a prince, she was named Yifei by Xianfeng, and was later promoted to Yi Guifei. The brilliance of Cixi's writing style is probably related to her own titles.

It used to be a place where concubines in the harem enjoyed the moon, which was very secluded. Suddenly, a group of high school students rushed over with smiles. They sat in a row under the porch, taking pictures in the same posture with Lian Huixuan as the background. "Cool and handsome!" A boy looked at the photo in his mobile phone and blurted it out. Everyone agreed. In a flash, they disappeared, like a gust of wind in autumn, without a trace. People from all over the world come to the Summer Palace every day. Everyone has his own Summer Palace in his heart, just as there are a thousand Hamlets in the eyes of a thousand people.

Walking out of Nanhu Island, we soon came to Yixiu Bridge. This white marble arch bridge is high, beautiful and dignified. Much like the Jade Belt Bridge at the northern end of Xidi. Such a high arch was used by ships at that time. Wendy and I climbed to the top of the bridge, and Jessica and Lily kept taking pictures under the bridge. The two of them came over and we looked at the photos. Oh, my God, it's beautiful. The arch bridge of Yixiu Bridge is like a window, reflecting mountains and lakes into the window frame. The reflection in the water is clear and sparkling, like a fairyland. Wendy and I ran down again and took pictures in the same scenery.

Cross the Yixiu Bridge and walk along the lake to the west embankment. There are fewer and fewer passers-by. This is a route we haven't taken, but there are scenery suitable for drunkenness. Starting from Qiao Liu, Yangxin Lake is on the left. The lotus in the lake has been defeated, and the lotus seeds have become lotus leaves. The dense reeds along the lakeshore add endless natural interest. There is a hickory tree on the right, which is near the lake. Autumn is getting stronger, the sun is setting, and the afterglow is dyed golden. The quiet and romantic Xidi is a pure land away from the noise.

To the east of the west dike is Kunming Lake, and to the west are two lakes, North Lake and South Lake. Spring flowers, summer lotus and autumn willow branches, all year round, the west embankment has its own changing appearance. Qianlong once wrote poems describing the west dike: the water is facing the mountain, and the Ming lake is like the west of Zhejiang; Full of beautiful flowers, three Zhu Yu, and six bridges and dikes.

Liuqiao comes from Du Fu's poem "There are sheep in Liuqiao, and the rime plays Yao Tai". There are many weeping willows and peach trees here, and spring is a scene of pink and green. We entered the pavilion of Liuqiao. The pillars and fences of the bridge are like exquisite picture frames. The scenery of the Summer Palace from here is another unique beauty.

Poet Wang Wei praised the reflection of willow in "Wang Liulang": "Every branch meets the shadow of the tree and enters the Qing Yi"? . I wonder if Qianlong planted many willows on the west dike because of this poem, and named this garden "Qingyi Garden".

In ancient times, people liked to plant willow and chant willow, because willow had the homonym of "staying", and when leaving relatives and friends, willow could best express their mercy. In the Tang Dynasty, Shi Jian wrote "Folding Willow Branches":

Seeing Yang Liuchun by the roadside, I folded it all again.

This year, I will return to last year's position and will not leave others last year.

Wang Zhihuan wrote in "Liangzhou Ci": Why should the Qiang people complain about the willows? The spring breeze is just like Yumenguan? "Willow" has two meanings here: first, it is on the border of the western regions, "Fold" is a famous song, and willow branches are played by Qiang flute. The second is to express the disappointment of separation. The lyrics of "Folding Yang Liuzhi" in Yuefu poem "Blowing the Tune" are: "Don't catch the whip when you get on the horse, fight with Yang Liuzhi. Dismount and play the flute, worrying about killing travelers. " It means that if a friend wants to travel far away, he will break down a willow tree and leave its homophonic sound, as if "willow branches" also want guests to stay and stay. It is a popular custom in Tang Dynasty to break willow branches to express reluctant feelings.

Spring, summer, autumn and winter, the summer palace is constantly changing its face, welcoming another life with one life. In spring, the willows in Xidi are a little green, and the peach blossoms are flushed like a girl who just woke up. In summer, the lotus beside Liuqiao is muddy but not dirty, clear but not demon. It clears up after the rain, and birds contend. In the blue waves of the boat, the lotus leaves are swaying, which makes people uneasy. In autumn, the sky is cloudless, the sweet-scented osmanthus is fragrant, and the cool wind is credible, bringing back the echo of history. In winter, looking at the clear snow in the western hills from a distance and looking at the ice-blue mirror of Kunming Lake, I can't help thinking that several years have passed.

In Xidi, we slowed down involuntarily. We walked all the way out of the North Ruyimen, the sunset was covered by thin clouds, and the Summer Palace was hazy. The huge garden, though made by people, is as open as the sky. There is the majesty of the royal family, the beauty of Jiangnan, the agitation of history and the changes of the times. Every visit to the Summer Palace will bring different feelings and new discoveries. The Summer Palace, I probably can't get enough of it all my life.

PS Bibliography: Summer Palace by Jia Zan, Summer Palace in Beijing by Shen Bo, Poems on Lakes and Mountains-Interpretation of the Monument to the Summer Palace by Xia, Spring Tour in the Summer Palace by Shen Congwen, Story of Colored Paintings on the Long Corridor of the Summer Palace by Liu Xie, etc.