Abstract: As one of the eight traditional cuisines in China, Anhui cuisine is deeply loved by people. At the same time, as a cultural phenomenon, Anhui cuisine has undergone many changes since it came into being, in order to adapt to the development of society, the changes of the times and the changes of people's needs. This paper expounds the cultural changes of Anhui cuisine from three aspects: the selection of raw materials from single to diverse, the cooking characteristics from traditional to modern, and the consumer groups from special groups to modern society.
Keywords: Anhui cuisine; Huizhou cuisine culture; Cultural changes
Abstract: As one of the eight traditional cuisines in China, Anhui cuisine is deeply loved by people. At the same time, as a cultural phenomenon, Anhui cuisine has also undergone great changes in the process of adapting to social development, changes in the times and changes in people's needs. This paper attempts to explain the changes of Anhui cuisine culture from three aspects: from a single material to a variety of materials; Replace traditional cooking characteristics with modern cooking characteristics, and replace the previous special group consumption with mass consumption.
Keywords: Anhui Cuisine Cultural Changes of Anhui Cuisine
As the saying goes, food is the first thing for the people, and taste is the first thing for food. Based on its unique natural and social environment, the people of China make the dishes on their table have their own regional "flavor" and strive for perfection. Together with other factors, they have created eight traditional cuisines in China today.
As one of the eight major cuisines, Anhui cuisine is also produced in this way. Huizhou cuisine originated in Huizhou in the Southern Song Dynasty, and it was originally a wild vegetable in Huizhou. With the rise and prosperity of Huizhou merchants, Huizhou cuisine was taken out of Shan Ye by Huizhou merchants and spread all over the country. After communicating with other cuisines, it became famous all over the world and became one of the cuisines, which has been passed down to this day. Thus, Anhui cuisine has become an important carrier of profound Anhui cuisine culture, and at the same time, Anhui cuisine has also become a culture, that is, Anhui cuisine culture.
At present, academic circles mostly study Anhui cuisine from the perspective of catering and tourism, such as the revitalization of Anhui cuisine from the perspective of the development trend of catering industry (Li Deming Sun Kekui's China CuisineNo. 15, 2008) and Reflections on the Development of Anhui Cuisine (Jin Shenglang's China CuisineNo. 16, 2008). However, almost no one studies Anhui cuisine culture from the perspective of cultural change, and this paper will try to explain it from this perspective.
Cultural change has always been concerned by cultural anthropology, culturology and many other disciplines. Generally speaking, cultural change refers to the change of cultural content and structure, which is usually manifested as the increase of new culture and the change of old culture, that is, the spread between cultures or the creation of culture itself. This paper will study the cultural changes of Anhui cuisine from three aspects: the choice of raw materials, the "triple" characteristics of Anhui cuisine and the consumption groups of Anhui cuisine.
First, the choice of raw materials for Anhui cuisine has changed from single to diverse.
1. Early Huizhou cuisine had a single raw material, mostly Huizhou local specialties.
Huizhou cuisine originated in Huizhou, which is now the Huangshan area. Originally, it was a daily dish for people in this area, so the choice of raw materials was mainly based on local materials. For example, bamboo shoots are produced in six counties of Huizhou, and natural bamboo shoots have become one of the raw materials of early Huizhou cuisine. "Anhui Tongzhi" says: "Bamboo shoots come from six cities in Weizhou, and those who ask for political mountains taste the best, and red meat is white. It can be broken when it hits the ground. " In addition, the mountainous areas in southern Anhui and Dabie Mountains are rich in pheasants, mushrooms, tremella and other delicacies. The Yangtze River, Huaihe River and Chaohu Lake are important freshwater fish producing areas in China, among which the Yangtze River shad, Huaihe River fat king fish, Chaohu whitebait and hairy crabs are all prestigious table treasures. In addition, Dangshan crisp pear, Xiaoxian grape, Yang Guo dried moss, Taihe Toona sinensis bud, Anqing bean paste and other products are the main raw materials of early Huizhou cuisine, which have strong seasonal and regional characteristics.
2. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Huizhou cuisine was rich in raw materials and was a local specialty.
With the rise and prosperity of Huizhou merchants, Huizhou cuisine went out of Huizhou and went to the whole country. The chefs of Anhui cuisine have followed the Huizhou merchants to become their own chefs or open their own restaurants, taking on the heavy responsibility of pushing Anhui cuisine to the whole country. At this time, the choice of raw materials for Anhui cuisine is more extensive. For example, the fish cooking of Huizhou school is not only the fish cooking in Huizhou area, but also the special dishes in other places. There are many famous Huizhou dishes with local characteristics, such as Guangdong roast suckling pig, Fujian Buddha jumping wall, Changshu beggar chicken and so on. This not only greatly enriches the raw materials of Anhui cuisine, but also meets the dietary needs of people in different regions.
Due to the limitation of storage conditions and preservation technology, many seasonal raw materials still have obvious restrictions, such as raw materials produced in summer and not treated in winter.
Method: You can't eat bamboo shoots in non-bamboo shoot season.
The emergence of some Anhui dishes is precisely because of the lack of this storage and preservation technology. For example, the popular traditional dish "Stinky Mandarin Fish" is produced in the Yangtze River, not Huizhou. After fishing, it takes ten and a half months to get to Qingyang, Taiping and Huizhou. Although fresh-keeping methods such as coarse salt packets are adopted, they stink when they arrive in Huizhou. After careful cooking by the masters of Anhui cuisine, mandarin fish looks smelly and fragrant.
3. Modern Anhui cuisine is rich in non-wild raw materials and is not limited by time and region.
In modern society, with the development of transportation and the progress of storage and preservation technology, the seasonal and geographical restrictions on the materials used in Anhui cuisine no longer exist, which is extremely beneficial to the development of Anhui cuisine. For example, at present, pears in Dangshan can be used as raw materials for Anhui cuisine all over the country and cooked into "pears with full flavor". At the same time, people can eat this new Anhui dish in the non-pear season or even in winter.
Most of the modern Anhui dishes are non-wild raw materials, and most of them are cultivated artificially. For example, turtles, frogs and all kinds of rare fungi that usually enter Anhui cuisine are all artificially cultivated or cultivated. This situation is caused by many reasons. First, the consumption of raw materials in Anhui has increased greatly, and the output of wild raw materials is relatively small. At present, Anhui Cuisine Hall is spread all over the country, with a large number of consumers. However, the wild raw materials of Anhui cuisine produced in mountainous areas are very limited. Coupled with the enhancement of people's concept of protecting wild resources and the environment, people naturally turn to non-wild Anhui raw materials.
This shows that with the development of society, the raw materials of Anhui cuisine have changed a lot.
Secondly, the cooking characteristics of Anhui cuisine have also changed from traditional to modern.
We know that the cooking characteristics of Anhui cuisine are "triple", namely, heavy oil, heavy color and heavy fire. Heavy oil was originally related to the demand for greasy food in people's diet structure in Huizhou. It is said that the mountains and rivers cited by people in Huizhou area are alkaline and need to be tempered with greasy food. Therefore, heavy oil, a characteristic of traditional Anhui cuisine, was beneficial to people's health at that time. At the same time, due to the low living standards of the people at that time, people lacked animal products and needed heavy oil. But in modern society, due to the improvement of people's living standards, people have been overnourished for a long time, leading to obesity, hypertension, hyperlipidemia and hyperglycemia, and people pursue a healthy and reasonable lifestyle. Under such circumstances, heavy oil Anhui cuisine must be adjusted accordingly to meet the consumption needs of modern people, such as maintaining its original characteristics and satisfying modern people's healthy and reasonable diet.
Heavy color is a special seasoning of Anhui cuisine, which is based on ingredients. Not all Anhui dishes are black. The heavy color of Anhui cuisine is closely related to its heavy oil. If the heavy oil of Anhui cuisine is not colored, it will make people feel disgusted with greasy Anhui cuisine visually and it is difficult to eat. Therefore, heavy color pays more attention to the visual beauty of Huizhou cuisine and increases people's appetite. But at the same time, the strong color of Anhui cuisine is not static. In modern society, people pursue originality. The color of the same dish is heavy, which will increase people's consumption desire. At the same time, due to the change of heavy oil, the demand for heavy color will naturally decrease.
Paying attention to heat means paying attention to stew, which can keep the original flavor of food. Therefore, there is a saying that "you have to wait for Huizhou cuisine". The heavy heat of Huizhou cuisine is closely related to the specific natural environment and people's lifestyle in Huizhou. First of all, from the natural environment, Huizhou area is known as "seven mountains, half water and half fields", which shows that Huizhou area is mountainous and forested and rich in wood, which provides a source of various fuels needed for the fire of Huizhou cuisine. Secondly, from the perspective of people's lifestyle, people can freely control a lot of time, which ensures that the stew of Anhui cuisine needs more time. Before the rise of Huizhou merchants, the mountainous environment in Huizhou made it difficult for residents here to go out except for busy farming. On the one hand, mountain roads are difficult to travel, on the other hand, people have formed a slow pace of life in this closed environment. After the rise and prosperity of Huizhou merchants, the family members who stayed in Huizhou enjoyed the money earned by the merchants and had more leisure time to pursue the "taste" of Huizhou cuisine, while the chefs who accompanied Huizhou merchants to various places specialized in making Huizhou cuisine, with a finer division of labor and more time at their disposal. At the same time, for the needs of social activities, Huizhou merchants also strongly support chefs to spend a lot of time stewing dishes.
However, in modern society, with the accelerated pace of people's life and the increasing competitive pressure, people are unwilling to spend too much time on the stew of Anhui cuisine. However, in order to ensure the original flavor of Anhui cuisine, people have found many substitutes, such as modern kitchen utensils such as pressure cookers.
It can be seen that the cooking characteristics of Anhui cuisine have also changed obviously.
Third, the consumption group of Anhui cuisine has changed from the previous special group to the public in modern society.
Huizhou cuisine is a home-cooked dish for people in Huizhou. It is only enjoyed by people in Huizhou, with a small consumer group and no market. Even if Huizhou cuisine is taken out of Huizhou by Huizhou merchants and pushed to the whole country, it will only be enjoyed by people in the circle where Huizhou merchants associate, and it is difficult for ordinary people to satisfy their appetite. Even though there were many Huizhou restaurants in the period, the consumption situation of small groups did not change much because people were limited by the economic level at that time.
In modern society, the consumption group of Anhui cuisine has become the public. This is because, firstly, with the development of social economy, people's income has increased, their living standards have improved and they have consumption power. However, with the development of modern cooking technology and various technologies, as well as the fierce competition in the catering industry, the consumption price of Anhui cuisine is also within the acceptable range.
It can be seen that in order to adapt to the times and meet the needs of consumers, the choice of raw materials, cooking techniques and consumer groups have all changed. Therefore, the cultural change of Anhui cuisine is an inevitable factor that Anhui cuisine originated in the Southern Song Dynasty, flourished from the Ming and Qing Dynasties to the Republic of China, and the hodgepodge situation lasted for a long time after the reform and opening up. At the same time, the cultural transformation of Anhui cuisine needs to be better and more in line with people's needs if it wants to be based on the present and look to the future and achieve better development. ④①
References:
[1] Li Deming Sun Kekui. Looking at the revitalization of Anhui cuisine from the development trend of catering industry [J]. China Food, 2008+05.
[2] Jin Shenglang. Reflections on the development of Anhui cuisine [J]. China Food,No. 16, 2008.
[3] Gao Shouxian. Huizhou culture [M]. Liaoning Education Press. 1998
[4] (America) Eugene Anderson, translated by Ma Ying Liu Dong. China food [M]. Jiangsu People's Publishing House. 2003
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