Last week, a few donkeys originally agreed to go to Mao Zang, to the day of departure, the sky flying snow, afraid of the car can not mountain, did not become a trip. This Saturday, the sky is clear, a few friends and friends are not vegetarian, about to go.
At 8:00 am, the vehicle from the south gate of Liangzhou, driving south, walked about twenty to thirty kilometers, came to the mouth of the mountain - miscellaneous wood river drainage.
Known as the "corridor south mountain" Qilian Mountain stretches across here, forming a natural boundary mountain, Gansu Tianzhu and Qinghai Menyuan for the division. In Gansu Tianzhu side, the mountains in the traditional highland pastoral area, nomadic pastoralism has become the main form of life of the mountain people for generations; out of the mountains, Qilian snow water flows to the mountains, moisturizing the Hexi, farming has become the most genuine state of life in this land.
The mountain pass has naturally become a watershed of the two forms of life, the emergence of a very interesting phenomenon. Into the mountains, living in the pastoral areas of the Tibetan and other ethnic minorities, they have been guarding the mountains, relying on sheep and cows to live a leisurely life, living a "mountain eat mountain" days; out of the mountains, farming naturally left to the people of Dahan. Perhaps God intended to mercy, in the vast desert Gobi given an oasis, so that people in this land output enough to satiate the stomach of a variety of food, living "by the ground to eat the ground" of the free life.
The head of the Maimu River is in such a position. South into the mountains, is the Tianzhu Maozang mountainous area, the mountain pass, is the Liangzhou District, Gucheng Town, River Village.
And at the head of the river village, you will find a very strange thing. Tianzhu County Maozang Township government and a part of the herdsmen, in this place that originally belonged to the territory of Liangzhou Gucheng Town, occupied about 200 acres of land, the construction of office buildings and other construction facilities, moved here.
In Mao Zang, leaving the homeland is also a matter of necessity. At that time, Liangzhou because of water, the government in the construction of Mao Zang reservoir, the original Mao Zang beach is categorized as a reservoir area, on which the original township government and a part of the herdsmen and nowhere to resettle, had to be outside of the mountain Liangzhou District nearby to find this piece of land, the construction of the gorge immigrant point.
Into the mountains, the vehicle will be submerged in a valley called Maozang Grand Canyon.
The Maozang Grand Canyon is a 60-kilometer-long canyon formed by the wash of the Maomu River over thousands of years. At first, the canyon is not too high on both sides, slightly undulating, a thin layer of sandy soil covering the ridge, a few trees, village grass dappled on, looks a little run-down, no peak-like, like the old man, in the weathering of time in the sideburns pale, in the years of suffering in the top of the decadence, left a few strands of how to grow long hair, only in the yellow skin through the vicissitudes of life, showing the hardship and sadness.
Inside, there are other places. Some places are precipitous and steep, some places are gentle and open, along the way there are both strange peaks, lofty rocks, but also mountains and rivers, forests, plateau meadows. The two villages of Mao Zang Township Quan Tai and the size of the Taiwan village are located in the canyon side of the mountains.
After the two villages of the canyon intersection, the towering mountains on both sides of the layers, showing the peaks of steep, majestic, precipitous and precipitous scenery, in the presence of the scene, you can feel its deep, serene and mysterious. There is a section where there is only a very small gap between the two peaks, which seems to press down at any time, making people dazzled and alarmed; some peaks are like a mysterious statue, with different shapes and forms, which is amazing. The most worshipped by the locals is a peak that resembles a natural Buddha statue. From the side, the eyes, nose, chin, meat bun the whole five features such as artificial carving, lifelike.
And both sides of the cliffs contain the thick and tough, but also some like the Northwest Hanzi heavy let a person trust. The steep peaks, as if the face of the vicissitudes of life, each angle and precipitation of the years of tenderness, like always embracing the lover, so long staring, a feeling from spring and summer to autumn and winter, regardless of the wind and snow, never discarded.
Thoughts slowly rise, in the slightly bare and barren vegetation on the rocks sparse trees, also shallow grass vine, such as worrying about the death of the sideburns, in the cold wind become barren.
Years like a knife, every day from here cut through, leaving a road can not erase the marks. That the deepest indentation, undoubtedly human knife and axe. Ding dong dong for a while, the cliff is unusually steep, straight up and down, like a long sword straight into the clouds. A few pieces of rock, as a declaration, vouching for the indefinable love and expectation.
Standing under a particularly huge piece of rock, I stopped to stare at the light gray stone engraved on the surface of the large white Tibetan characters "". This word, in many places in Tibet have to see, "" Chinese for "Om", is the six words of Tibetan Buddhism - Om () man (?) What? Abracadabra? () Un (?) is the first character in the Six Characters of the True Words of Tibetan Buddhism - Om (?). According to Tibetan scholars, the six-word mantra translates as "Ah! May my virtue be complete and merge with the Buddha!" .
This reminds me of the pilgrims prostrate on the gravel road, but also recalled the old amah next to the drum, scene after scene, piety in that part of the pure, buried deep in the heart. At this moment, it seems that faith and reverence pouring out, infiltrated the heart, so that I, like countless Tibetan compatriots, silently chanting the six-word motto. I don't want to fulfill the merit, I don't want to seek Buddha's liberation, I only want to keep this last piece of nature and national culture of the mortal world.
The canyon winds a country road, traffic signs called X103 Road, while the navigation is called X284, whether 103 or 284, in the county jurisdiction of the name of the road, are considered to be a very large number, so large number undoubtedly shows that the road construction is only a few years. Indeed, this is the case, earlier there is no such road, and then in order to build a reservoir, human beings hard cliff cut this road, so that today, we can go into the mountains. Of course, the mountain people also walked out.
Roadside, often attention to falling rock signage, but also from time to time found from the top of the mountain sliding down a large rock, as if at any time to be over the road. You don't have to say, touch this kind of road, there is still a little bit of fear, afraid of really falling down a stone, don't care whether it is big or small, are very dangerous. A lot of places where the road was crushed by the car rain brush potholes, driving in the above, vehicles like a boat, a moment high a moment low, in the bumps in the forward.
On one side of the road is a small river - Maozang River, the river runs all the way out of the mountains, into the Miscellaneous Wood River, into the Shiyang River system.
The river in winter, has frozen, the ice has accumulated a thick layer of snow, no summer and fall beautiful purple and red noise, like a cloak of plain clothes, bringing the temptation of tranquility and transparency.
In the past, the flow of waterfalls, this time also frozen in the cliffs, the formation of icicles, ice hanging and ice mantle, layers and layers, white as jade.
Between the ice hangings, the flowing water broke through the boundaries, flowing down from the ice mantle, one stack, two stacks, layers falling, stirring up the sound of water. The river is surrounded by ice and snow, clear, clear at a glance you can see the bottom of the river colorful, round and smooth pebbles.
More on the river, the middle of the ice like a plow cut a groove, the river from the groove flowed through, and then was frozen, after the melt successive flow, and frozen, so repeatedly, the middle of the black flowing groove, like a wound scab, piled up a thick layer, a layer higher than a layer, slowly moving to both sides, each layer, and then drifted down the snow, like a pen to draw, brushstrokes slowly bloomed in the field of view, solidified, a few more raging, several times, a few more than the ice, a few more than the ice, a few more than the ice. A few more raging, a few more frozen, instantly turned into a legend in front of me, beautiful.
Icefall aside the mountain peaks, colorful streamers are fluttering, a small flag dancing with the wind, as reading a scripture, non-stop to God to convey the expectations of the Tibetan compatriots, praying for the blessing of this mountain and this water.
A group of white yaks marching orderly on both sides of the river, most of them crowded together, head down, while searching for grass, while looking at the team, for fear of falling behind. Individual cows, from time to time to stop, with a wary look at us, and then quickly run forward, making the dust flying, startled pits wild birds, a chirp, flying into the sky.
Walking against the river, in a relatively narrow and deep valley, a dam blocked the river, Mao Zang reservoir appeared in front of us.
Standing in the reservoir dam, a glance, surrounded by mountains on all sides, gurgling snow water from the mountain streams flow, in front of the dam Maozang beach convergence, the formation of the plateau flat lake, only the lake is frozen, like a mirror set in the pits, illuminating the mountains.
We went around the reservoir to the inlet, the original Maozang River on an old suspension bridge still exists, as a historical testimony is protected. The bridge on the broken planks have been replaced with new, worn paint has been repainted, people deliberately "Mao Zang old bridge" four words engraved on the side of the bridge, in order to remember that once lost years.
The reservoir is a large amount of water, once from the bridge under the whistling through, it is not difficult to imagine, in this narrow bridge, the water flow with a kind of wild, turbulent from the bridge through, surging through the Maozang beach, rushing away.
And on the beach, the villagers live by the water, dogs and chickens, green grass, cows and sheep surrounded by, like the world, quiet and beautiful. Later, the township government had to move away, the herdsmen moved away, cattle and sheep drove away, into the reservoir area, was surrounded by a high barbed wire fence.
In the end we are the beneficiaries of the reservoir. Because of this reservoir, Liangzhou people's pipes, the first flow out of surface water, which a clear, so that people really feel the source of the flow of clean.
But I'm not happy, these years, the mountains, one after another, like in front of the Maozang reservoir built a lot of reservoirs, cut off the Shiyang River, such as a lot of river flow, and therefore a lot of environmental disasters. Typical, is the construction of the upper reaches of the Hongyashan Reservoir in 1958, in 1959, downstream of the Qingtu Lake completely dry, Zeguo no longer, into the sand line.
Looking from the suspension bridge, the north bank of the river on the slopes, high and low staggered Mao Zang village villagers residence. A colorful cottage, can not see the rich difference, or colorful steel tiles placed on the roof, in the silent mountain village active atmosphere, with a kind of dynamic interest. Next to the village, there is also a row of cottages, slightly old and clean, when the Maozang Temple. This temple, and many of the Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, different from the gold and blue, seems too ordinary, no one has been there, generally will not be it and Tibetan monasteries associated.
The temple was built in the early Qing Dynasty, Tongzhi was destroyed, restored in 1935, reopened in 1982, perhaps because of the dilapidated, the village built a new temple, the old temple less activity, only as a county-level cultural relics protection unit protected.
Mao Zang Temple opposite, a peak from afar as if a giant stone mill, the peak of a deep groove in the middle, as if the umbilical cord in the mill, the people with the name of "mill navel mountain". Around the mill navel mountain around seven stone peaks, from a distance it looks like seven loaded with grain and grass car slowly moving forward, locals called "seven hay wagon".
Although the mill navel mountain did not grind out the surface, but grinding out the gold. At the end of the nineties, mill navel mountain under the double dragon ditch, ushered in an unprecedented gold mining climax, large excavators, loaders, bulldozers and influx, more than 100,000 gold miners from south of the world heard, crowded in a ditch, mining sand gold. Of course, this has long been history.
After the suspension bridge, the car to Mao Zanghuashan village. About a dozen kilometers of travel, we came to the first sea of Huashan. The sea has been frozen, no autumn fish-like demeanor, like roadside weeds, too ordinary, and did not stop, hiking to the second sea to go.
Standing next to the sea, Kawa palm snow peak towering in front of us. This is the highest peak of Tianzhu, the Tibetan language called Ani Ganggal, elevation 4874 meters, for the Ganqing boundary mountain. At a glance, the peak of the snow-capped, mountainside trees and shrubs, but also fell full of snow, the foot of the meadow yellow, the river frozen, a northern winter scenery.
Most of the road is snowy, overgrown with shrubs, and it is very difficult to walk, panting. The good thing is that the scenery is very beautiful, more or less reduce the high altitude brought about by the chest tightness shortness of breath. Walking along, a friend called Ao Xue Cold Plum has a surprise discovery, shouted: look, deer, look, several!
We coincidentally followed the direction she pointed to look, found three or four horse deer in the head of the diagonal above the wandering, a moment to stop, a moment to run, extremely cute. We watched them for a while until we saw them leave our sight.
In fact, the other three villages of Mao Zang and Huashan Village, only one road to the outside, along the mountains, out of a trip to go to a few days, is a veritable secret. At that time, there are many wild animals, like snow leopard, musk, bears and other herders have seen.
In Huashan Village, the villagers remember the story of the "sacred deer". Writer Liu Hu in the "Qilian Mountains white deer" article wrote:
This time, we looked for a herdsman to prove it again, he said:
"There is indeed a white deer, we call the deer, the old around the village, the villagers have the sense to put some food for the deer to eat, a long time, it seems to be very familiar with each other, each other do not see the suspicion, very close. Close to each other. Later, it disappeared for a period of time, and when I saw it again, it brought a fawn, which was presumably its offspring. Then, the deer fell into the river and broke its legs, and not long after, the deer died, and the fawn was gone."
Having seen the wild deer, it seems to have come to the spirit, talking and laughing to the second sea.
The sea has also been frozen, covered with a thick layer of snow, a friend friend called Long squatted on the ground, with a branch to peel off the snow, observe the ice, while picking up the side, said:
"Frozen very solid, the ice cracked the mouth, don't worry about stepping on it, a little bit of nothing."
I turned around in the sea ice, some resentment, which is very different from the last time to stay in the mind of the sea.
After descending the mountain, took out what we brought by the car, and simply ate, we ran to the next attraction of Mao Zang - the inverted gorge.