Back and forth to Tibet Episode 1: Come with me to Cocosily

I know Coco Sicily is entirely because it is Lu Chuan directed the film "Coco Sicily", 2004, the eleventh national holiday, I went to the cinema alone to see the film, because I did not buy a ticket to "Kill Bill", so I can only look at the cold film, the plot I will not repeat, with a little touched and yearn for, and planted a seed, 8 years later. It really blossomed, and I went to Cocoa Sicily. So, thank you Lu Chuan director and team.

First of all, let's talk about the plateau reaction thing - I have absolutely no no preparation and knowledge reserves, I was told to go to the Tibetan land, high altitude Tibetan areas must be overcome is the plateau reaction, it seems to be a test paper, or an admission ticket, the pass ...... I have also worried, I deliberately into the bath center sauna experience feeling, which if for consumption, that is, the northeast people once a week daily experience, basic nothing burden and pressure, but if you want to experience plateau reaction lack of oxygen brought about by the feeling of discomfort, then 30 seconds may not be able to adhere to

But, the real situation is quite gratifying, I do not have a plateau reaction, a little bit not, so I do not I summarized, the feeling of high altitude reaction is very much like you a mouthful of a large glass of pothead (or any spirits), and then keep doing sit-ups,

Not dizzy, it is dizzy dancing;

Not bloated, it is bloated shouting;

Not confused, it is confused riding a roller coaster;

Basically, it is that the brain became like a glass ball in the skull shaking around. That's altitude sickness!

With the physical condition has nothing to do with poverty and wealth has nothing to do with, with the low-profile openness has nothing to do with, with the ethnic nationalities have nothing to do with, with gender has nothing to do with, with the health of the disease has nothing to do with, with the age of the identity has nothing to do with ...... later I can only recognize an explanation: this is destiny.

Cocoa Sicily is not in Tibet, it is in the southwestern part of Qinghai Province, Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, covers an area of about 45,000 square kilometers, it is across Qinghai, Xinjiang, Tibet between the three provinces and regions of the piece of alpine terrace, the natural conditions of the poor, the average annual temperature of -10.0 4.1, the lowest temperature -46.2.

Meaning there are no summers here, it's uninhabitable, and since the 1970s, the Tibetan antelope and that expensive fleece called "Shahtoosh" have made poachers known to the world. It's a fact that you hardly ever see a Tibetan antelope, and it's impossible to buy shahtoosh.

But the danger to life remains. So we set off early in the morning from Golmud, the closest city to the Kunlun Pass. It was a bit cloudy that day, but it's not spring in the Tibetan region in April,

Or maybe it's because the snow-capped mountains and the glaciers haven't melted, so that breathtaking cell phone desktop or computer screensavers aren't photoshopped, they're just there, free of charge, for you. You see ...... we ate breakfast in Golmud, fill up the oil, filled the oxygen pillow, bought Red Bull and Snickers, at this point in the morning at nine o'clock, I'm sorry, there is a two-hour time difference between here and the mainland, so the day dawn, we set off to the place called Cocoanutian.

I have to tell you, I first arrived at the Kunlun Mountain gate feeling, that is ...... top salute, convinced, about one kilometer away, there are two stone pillars, a pillar written on the "towering Kunlun", the other written "the ancestor of all mountains". The "Ancestor of all mountains", between the two pillars, separated by a long distance, you can see the rolling snow-capped mountains, which is any computer special effects can not be imitated, but also can not be fully expressed.

A straight highway through the two pillars, (later several times across the Cocoanutian, every time you get here on the fist, adrenaline rush, as if immediately want to ride the roller coaster feeling), and this accompanied by more than 2,000 kilometers of highway is the magical "heavenly road", until the holy land! Lhasa,

Why is it called the heavenly road? I summarize two reasons, one, countless PLA soldiers and Tibetan compatriots with blood and life meter by meter, kilometer by kilometer to build the lifeline to Lhasa, two, the average elevation of 4,600 meters above sea level, a veritable heavenly road, is almost the ultimate examination of the human body. It is codenamed "109 national highway".

After the gate, into the Kunlun Mountains, the vastness of the mind is a bath, a little bit of thought in the dirt, because of the lack of oxygen, you will gradually slow, so the hallucinations also come, this time, whether it is hot or cold, you must open the windows, otherwise it will really be smothered or suffocated. At this time, the audio can finally be tuned to Yangjin Lanze's "take the train to Lhasa", you will completely understand the meaning of the lyrics, and even you can feel the singer's singing why it seems a little short of breath, because ...... really can not breathe!!!!

No trees, no flowers.

But you will see the Kunlun Mountain mineral water plant, there is no need for me to do any advertising, which is absolutely China's most assured water, because, because behind the plant is hundreds of millions of years of glaciers, everyone in the car is open-mouthed through the water plant, no wonder they have to sell this price, want to ship to the mainland is really a little difficult.

At this point I pulled out a Snickers and chewed it, even if you don't move, you are constantly consuming energy, it's as if someone pressed the fast forward button for your life with a remote control, you don't know what's going to happen, and you don't know what you're going to face because there are modern civilization of the car, cell phone, GPS, drinks, so I'm not afraid, and I don't need to worry about it, it's nothing but a journey, but when the When the car can't add normal gasoline, the cell phone has no signal at all, the GPS is half out of order, and the drink and tobacco can't distinguish the taste at all, pay attention to every mobile cell tower, and hurry to send out a microblogging or a circle of friends, calmly and calmly.

You can light a lighter with just a little bit of flame in this amazing place called Woodaoliang and show it off to your friends like I did. In this place, the noodles don't cook, people don't want to talk, they are depressed, the lighter doesn't work, the cigarettes don't taste the same, and the drinks don't quench your thirst (it's not recommended to smoke or drink alcohol in Woodaoliang, as it's really life-threatening)!

We've got a great deal of work to do.)

We were told that the front is 800 kilometers of the Cocoanutian no man's land. I was a little apprehensive, a little excited, I came, anyway, can not go back to the road, then go forward, to the high place. The restaurant rice here is basically don't eat, because it's not cooked at all, the noodles are not cooked, boiling water on the stove with steam, but you can rest assured that your hand into the boiling kettle, in fact, only 60 degrees Celsius,

Oh, this is the Cocoanutian to give you the first downward spiral - don't be picky. Don't talk to me about taste, it's good to have something to eat.

swallowed some familiar but unfamiliar texture taste of food, we continue on the road, officially entered the Cocoanutian, I was in awe, see the Kunlun Mountains and the Cocoanutian road sign, I almost cried out, how do I come from the comfort of Beijing to such a barren land - no man's land is not just no one, is nothing! The first thing you can understand is that there is no one, no water, no electricity, no cell phone signal, no grass, no buildings, no horizon at all, and the snow-covered mountains in the distance are short, but the altitude must be more than 7,000 meters,

In other words, we're already in the sky. Having said that, it may be a little bit slightly distant from reality, can't empathize, and even let the reading itself has produced a distance, which is not my intention,

Well, insert an advertisement: come to Tibet, there is one thing, back to the mainland I will never eat again, that is, the yogurt, if you are fortunate enough to have eaten yogurt from the Tibetan Plateau, if you eat it in the herdsmen's tents, if you are strange about the yellow color of the surface layer of its Milk skin, if you are also convinced by the rich taste, then you must despise all the products with thickening agent thickening ......

In fact, about the Cocoanutian can say the story is too much, I want to say is not my own how lucky, I think that when you get here you have to go to feel the destiny.

For example, my destiny is that I took my father, who is nearly sixty years old, to cross the Cocoanutian twice, and I crossed the gloomy Cocoanutian, and also walked through the windy Cocoanutian, I have seen its vastness and infinity, and also comprehended its breadth and tolerance, like a wise man, a master, he does not preach, but just teach, it is inaccessible, do not have to fantasize about it, and your fame and wealth, identity, are all going to be in it, but it is not the only thing that I want to know. Identity, all have to put down in front of it, to give it a most real you, with any "personality" have nothing to do, come here are a **** the same characteristics, that is fate.

Tall or short, fat or thin, strong or weak, sickly, it does not matter, you can witness this natural wonder to bring you all the metaphysical perception is through the five senses of the real feeling of the seal, the eyes of the clear colors, the ears in the whistling of the cold wind, the nostrils in the ghee in the aroma, the tongue inexpressible astringency, and reach out to touch the pure earth ...

The most important thing is that you have to be able to see the natural world. ...

So the question is, in the end there is no such poetry? Is it so nice and cozy or not?

Of course, not entirely, this is a beautiful illusion, this illusion will be with 1080p HD 3D blue sky, white clouds, grassland pastures and more and more real, if there is a sound at this time, you think it should be what sound? Is it a melodious ancient melody? Or is it a secular brainwashing street tune?

"Welcome to the hometown of the Tibetan antelope - Coco Sicily (the back is: Coco Sicily National Nature Reserve welcome you again)" sign and "Kunlun Mountain, altitude 4767m. "The sign is less than 100 meters away, the former green short, the latter blue, high up, this place is not a viewing platform, is not a pass, but here, but a form, will be all the passers-by, travelers stay, worship, salute, stop, remember the place,

Here, not just because of the monument to the heroes of the Sonam Dajie. Not only because of the many legends about the Kunlun Mountains, but you should be here to catch your breath, get some air, get off the walk, I dare say, any time, anyone to come here, there will be a *** with the same feeling - the wind to blow you through. Here is not with the cold can be described, because the Tibetan land has no trees, only less than ten centimeters of turf, so the vegetation seems to be precious, and these seem to have nothing to do with Coco-Coco Sili, because it is out of place in any season of barrenness, and that kind of barrenness can be simply summed up as despair.

You stand in place, look around, the eye of the place, there has not been any obstruction, far away from heaven and earth blend together, you do not know what is called there, in any case, first referred to as "far away" it, and close to there is no difference, the same barren, the same is full of despair, the young you, the arrogance of the people ah, ask yourself, what is worth being proud of? What is there to be proud of? But this is the lofty mountains and mountains of a beings, no difference, if you really think here than a Tibetan antelope's life is much better, you are really wrong, if you still insist on having money but no time, have time but no money so can not come to a "say go on a journey" ... ...

I have to tell you, this is all an excuse, travel is just a form, if you can swim, eat, bathe in some sense, then you don't need to come here, really need to come to Coco-Coco Sicily is those who have been numb to the ideals and dreams, feel that they are special bullish special great, feel that they are depressed all over the world are sorry for their own, feel that they are just short of a chance of people. They are just short of a chance to ...... I went there for the first time, sitting in the middle of the national highway, before and after the car, close your eyes, mouth naturally chanting "consciously aware of the people, self-benefiting altruism"

This is an extreme trip, let's clear the first The first thing you need to know is that you have the time but not necessarily the money to support your journey. You're rich but you don't want to go on an "on-the-road" journey, you'd rather put up with the haze of a thousand coffees and dinners than talk to your soul, even if you're idle enough to have plenty of money to support your journey. This journey, but the family against, physical exhaustion, or very well prepared, but here on the plateau reaction, can not adhere to the next stop, and even delicious ghee tea, rustic tsampa and spice which hand grasping, ramen are you are not blessed to consume, then only red bull and snickers is not able to help you hold out over the Cocoanutian, so, to come here, it is the need for destiny.

In addition to "Zahidlal", I learned the fastest two Tibetan language, one is "Ga Zhen Che", a "Che Jean", the former means "gratitude". The hot tea in an ordinary noodle shop is hot, but the temperature is only 60 degrees Celsius; you live in a small hotel full of moldy smell, the Tibetan boss kindly reminded you that, no matter how cold it is, you must sleep with the windows open at night, or else you will have a splitting headache the next morning, you are in the mountainous region of a day's run, a smiling, dark Khampa man told you that the gas station is just ten kilometers ahead of you. ......

At this point you hands together, bowed his head and whispered a sentence: Ga really cut! The other side will smile, return a GaZhenChe, because this is the salutation, thank you, followed by a "CheJean", the original meaning of longevity, long life, the actual is the meaning of the Tibetan people to say goodbye to each other, we often say goodbye, is a kind of expectation and anticipation, and the Tibetan people's goodbye is full of blessings.

Imagine everyone in the ordinary or important farewell moment will read each other a sentence: long life!

There is no sunshine along the way, I said many times in Wudaoliang, this strange little town, Ga really, thankful to be able to eat a meal in the snowy plateau do not know the flavor of the noodles, can be added to the gasoline I do not know how many, enough oxygen from nowhere, but also can be hard to dodge the crosswinds to light a cigarette.

Although at this time each person is a purple lips, swollen cheeks, talking seems to come up for air, as if walking need to be pulled, back bends down, but this is the moment, more need to be grateful, grateful to nature is so favorable to life, so that we can still breathe weak oxygen, to maintain the signs of the forward forward, beyond their own, grateful to nature to let us look at the life, it is It's so great and scary that it can take away one's perception and life at any time, as if everything we ask for is a delusion, everything we cherish is a dream, you can neither keep nor cherish it, when our physical body reaches its limit, what can't we let go of?

The end of Cocoa Sicily is not Tanggula Pass, but Tanggula Pass is definitely the best summary of this journey.

Only if you witness the scene, only if you get out of the car, walk slowly, restore the will, you can feel the majesty and magnificence of it I was once perplexed wandering, or empty-handed, feel that they are the center of the world, is the protagonist of the story, everything is my suffering, my joy, ha ha, I'm afraid that at this time sitting in the cabin of the plane you also have the same feeling! ...... But when I stood at the Tanggula Pass, you know what? I heard a this life have not been carefully identify the sound ......

That is to relax, here at an altitude of 5321 meters: breathing, talking, even the pace, language, and even thinking, are slowed down, at this time you can only hear the sound of the wind, you can see him roll away from the clouds, and even more so, can be heard! Huffing and puffing sound, and at this time your body feels a kind of permeability, which has nothing to do with how much you wear, in fact, you only need to do a deep breath, you can breathe the same flavor as billions of years ago.

You only need to feel to know, why he stands unchanged, that reach out to touch the clouds is not real, because it is not even appeared in your dreams ......

How can we not go to forget the sadness, quietly, give yourself a minute to close your eyes, right now, at this moment, you can also