Xingxing
More than 1 kilometers of dusty Panshan Road, Shantou Road turned the last corner and suddenly put out the whole scenery.
The heights are Yakling and Shimenguan, stretching between mountain roads and terraced fields. Suddenly, I saw a boulder that extended to the center of the river like an island. The village on the boulder was like a jade belt, and the Jinsha River was extremely quiet.
The pictures of Jinsha River are provided by the author.
The road to Baoshan Stone City is really difficult, but it would be wronged to say that there is no development. Compared with more than ten years ago, the first half of Lijiang's north has bid farewell to dirt roads and tractor roads.
From Lijiang to Mingyin Town, it is a fairly flat Panshan Road, but there are too many bends. A series of mountain ridges pass through the terraced fields, along the road to the west, and the heights are endless snow peaks. From Yulong to Haba, the scenery is picturesque.
Yulong Snow Mountain passing by on the mountain road
From Mingyin to the north, the road is getting narrower and narrower, and it is quite difficult to meet cars on the opposite side. Many sections have not been completely repaired, and the bumpy dirt road can't be opened for nearly two hours. It takes more than four hours to drive more than 13 kilometers, it is difficult to drive by car, and there are very few buses. These factors have set a natural threshold for Baoshan Stone City, and the village is quiet and leisurely.
South Gate of Stone Town
Baoshan Stone Town has two gates, north and south. The south gate is high, and now put in order has a square, where villagers gather to dance after dinner every day. The lower part of the north gate is downward, and you can walk directly to the Jinsha River through the terraced fields. Around the stone city, leaning against the cliff, a stone wall with a height of more than ten feet was built. When the gate was closed, it was impregnable.
Inside the south gate of Stone Town
Now, in order to facilitate sightseeing, Stone Town has dug a new sightseeing trail, but the narrowest hill is still the dirt stone steps, which is dangerous to walk. The local Naxi grandmother can carry a hoe lightly, which is also because she is used to going up and down the farmland every day.
the trail outside the city in the west of Stone Town
The Geography of the Yuan Dynasty records that "Baoshan Prefecture is in the east of the snow-capped mountains, and Lijiang is in the west, surrounded by three sides. In the past, some people lived in it. It first moved from the building to live here for more than twenty lives. " In 1253, Kublai Khan pushed forward "more than 2 lifetimes", which lasted for 3 years, going back more than 6 years. Just at the turn of Sui and Tang Dynasties, a family of "Yesterday Yao and Some Man", that is, the Mosuo people of Naxi nationality, migrated from "Loutou", that is, near Lugu Lake in Ninglang, yongningzhen.
What happened to Lugu Lake in Ninglang at the turn of Sui and Tang Dynasties? Ninglang is also a livable plateau with wonderful landscapes. Why did this Naxi people move to Baoshan Stone City? There is only this short sentence in the history of the Yuan Dynasty, and the source of the details of Baoshan Stone Town before the people of the Yuan Dynasty set foot on the territory is completely unknown.
The word "Yuan Crossing the Leather Bag" also appears in the world's first couplet (18 characters) in Daguanlou, Kunming, which highly summarizes the golden moment of Yunnan in Yuan history, that is, Yuan Prince Kublai Khan flew across the "Biantou" ferry on the Jinsha River by "Leather Bag" (sheepskin raft), which is more than ten kilometers north of Baoshan Stone Town.
Stone Town
There are hundreds of kilometers of mountains and deep valleys along this road. Although the scenery is infinite, it is also dangerous step by step. It is thought that all the people who can walk to Baoshan Stone Town alive will not be safe. After a long bumpy road, they will find a boulder in the middle of the river at the end of the road. What kind of mood will it be?
the depth of the canyon
The geography of Yuan Dynasty records the second half sentence of Baoshan Prefecture: "The ancestors conquered Dali, helped the river from Biantou, from Luobang to Luosi, surrounded by villages such as Dakui, and its chieftain was attached to it, so it was called Chahan Huluhan. In the fourteenth year of Zhiyuan, Baoshan County was established in seven places, and it was promoted to state in sixteen years.
How did the Yuan Army stationed in Baoshan Stone Town make the "chieftain attached to it"? Did it storm into the city under the natural barrier? -it's hard to imagine from the terrain, or is it inside? Compared with many bends in the Jinsha River and the roaring first bay in the world that I have seen before, the Jinsha River here in Shicheng is indeed an excellent place to cross the river. Such a quiet section of the river is really suitable for crossing and swimming.
Vision of Stone Town
There are many far-fetched explanations that will tell you that "rock drilling is the canal, stone carving is the cylinder, and all kinds of daily necessities are made of stone from local materials" in the stone town. Now, the only stone bed stone stove that can be found is one near Chengtou, which has a strong display nature. The door panel specially says "Visit the stone bed stone stove inside", and the trace of axe chisel looks new. In fact, the hundreds of families who have lived in this whole boulder for more than a thousand years are spectacular enough in themselves, and there is really no need to be far-fetched
The winding road into the city, at first glance, is directly carved and leveled in the stone in the distant years. It is smooth enough, but not flat enough, so it is not easy to walk. Only the locals born in it can walk on the ground. In the narrowest place, only two people can be careful to turn sideways and make mistakes, but at the widest place, two horses are parallel. Now, we can only walk into the city, and no cars can get in. Some people are sympathetic to the luggage of distant guests and lead horses to help carry bags.
The roads in Stone Town
On the stone slab road, if you look closely, there are a few horseshoe tread marks, most of which are hard to see. Horse manure can be seen everywhere, but no one deliberately cleans it after getting used to it. In recent years, the villages in Lijiang, Dali have developed rapidly in building roads and bridges. Like Stone Town, the original trails are still preserved, and the villages filled with pigsty and horse manure are becoming more and more rare.
The houses in Stone Town
The houses are connected to the houses, and this pigsty is facing the door of that house, and the eaves of the house are against the neighbors' houses. Every inch of space in the extremely compact village is fully utilized.
A drop of several tens of centimeters is enough to build a chicken coop, and the position of pigsty has also innovatively appeared in many unexpected corners. Nowadays, it is too hypocritical to chisel stone crops. The most convenient thing besides wood is cement. No matter how limited the space, you can always build a pigsty that is enough for your own use. A water heater storage bucket is also mounted on the roof of the high place. Walking around the city is full of simple wisdom.
Residential buildings in Stone Town
In recent years, Baoshan Stone Town has quietly flourished among hikers. More than ten years ago, there were only two inns, but now homestays are everywhere. There are several hiking routes that cross Taiziguan from the ferry under the north gate, and there are several caves in the mountain, which are all good places for exploration.
The inn sign in Stone City
There are more cruise projects at Shanxia Ferry Pier, so you can go back and forth to Prince Edward Pass and Genangdu Bridge in one day by boat without any effort. Some people are more adventurous. It is said that they can find a private boat, go back to Lugu Lake along the river, and walk by water between more than 1 miles of mountains and canyons. It is also a wonderful scenery.
However, the most comfortable experience in Stone Town is to stay quietly for a few days. Several homestays here have platforms facing the canyon. The canyon with a drop of more than 2, meters, as far as the eye can see, from the rock wall at the top of the mountain to the terraced fields on the mountainside, from the people in the mountains to the river at the bottom of the valley, get up early to see the sunshine slanting into the valley a little, and in the evening to see the people returning from the fields with hoes.
Stone Town, where roads are built all the year round, is still blocked by express delivery. All homestays and inns are operated on a small scale, with three or five rooms, and they rely on their own farming and raising livestock to entertain guests. Naxi people cook quite delicious, with their own salted bacon, melon tips picked in their own fields and fresh local flavor.
In the evening, you might as well step on the moonlight to the South Gate Square and join the local dance team. The Naxi people dance beautifully, rubbing their shoulders and heels, arm in arm, shoulder to shoulder, and the four-step dance steps are neat, and the team in a circle jumps clockwise.
dance of Naxi people in Stone Town
Night view of Stone Town
There is a tacit understanding and harmony between people, as close as houses in Stone Town. The end of the line is in a hurry. At first glance, it is a foreigner. If you change a piece of music, you will change your pace. Foreigners who dance with you will inevitably start to learn again and again, often stepping on the back of their right foot with their left foot. Locals are used to just laughing, and their unaffected dance steps are as calm as this city. Wait for the night dance, every house lights up, and the Milky Way falls on the valley, which is the "market in the sky".
Proofreading: zhangyan