Chilechuan at the foot of Yinshan Mountain. The sky is like the sky, and the cage covers four fields. The sky is wild, and the wind and grass are moving to see cattle and sheep.
-The northern folk song "Song of Chile"
Speaking of the prairie, did you jump out of this song of Chile like me?
"The sky is grey, the wilderness is vast, and the wind blows the grass and the cattle and sheep are low." What unpretentious words make up an infectious statement, which is heroic, straightforward, magnificent and open, just like the character of prairie people.
It is still inconclusive where the grassland depicted in Chilechuan is. Some people say that it is in Shuozhou and Ningwu, Shanxi, some people say that it is in the Heihe River Basin of Hohhot under the Yinshan Mountain in Inner Mongolia, and some people say that it is not important where Chilechuan is in Tumochuan Plain, Inner Mongolia. What is important is that there is a prairie in the northeast of Inner Mongolia, which perfectly embodies the image of folk songs and even makes up for the blank of folk songs. ......
I said-Hulunbeier grassland.
When we want to enjoy the grassland scenery, Inner Mongolia is the first choice for most people. Since ancient times, this long and narrow land has been a nomadic paradise with abundant aquatic plants: Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty once farmed and raised horses here, and ethnic minorities such as Xiongnu, Xianbei and Nuzhen once hunted and multiplied here. Mongolian warriors have since established a heroic empire across Europe and Asia. ......
The gentle undulating terrain and suitable elevation above 1 1,000 meters have created an ideal home for pasture. Many grasslands such as Xilingol, Horqin, Wulanchabu, Erdos, Wulagai and Alashan have been born in the vast land of 1 654,38+0,800 square kilometers in the east and west of Inner Mongolia. Due to the different topography and climate, some are accompanied by forests and some are dependent on deserts.
Hulunbeier grassland is not only the most beautiful grassland in Inner Mongolia, but also one of the four largest grasslands in the world, ranking first among them. I checked the four grasslands in the world and found that two of them are in Inner Mongolia (Xilingol Grassland and Hulunbeier Grassland), and the other two are Nalati Grassland in Xinjiang and pampas Grassland in South America. So I think the above statement is not appropriate. It should be: Because Hulunbeier Grassland is the highest in Inner Mongolia, it is the highest in the world. This is like saying: because a table tennis player is the best player in China, he is the first in the world; Because an NBA team is the champion of the United States, no one can beat it in the world.
So, how beautiful is the most beautiful Hulunbeier grassland in the world?
Hulunbeier Grassland is located in Hulunbeier City in the northeast of Inner Mongolia, west of Daxing 'anling Mountains. It is not the grassland that can be seen completely at a glance, but the grasslands in Xinbaerhu Right Banner, Xinbaerhu Zuo Qi Banner, Chenbaerhu Banner, Ewenki Banner, Hailar District, Manzhouli City, the south of Ergun City and the west of Yakeshi City. It is a grassland group about 350 kilometers wide from east to west and 300 kilometers long from north to south. There are more than 3000 rivers criss-crossing here.
What is presented to you here is the grassland in the north of Hailar District.
In the early autumn morning, it was raining moderately and the weather was gloomy. I set out from Hailar, drove south and came to the grassland area. Fortunately, the weather was fine, and when we reached the grassland, Wan Li was clear.
On the road, I met two sculptures standing on both sides of the road. The tour guide said they were a man and a woman. The man's name was "Bell" and the woman's name was "Hulun".
(Hulun)
(Bell)
It turns out that "Hulunbeier" is the name of a pair of young people. Naturally, there is a romantic legend:
A long time ago, there was a young man and a young woman in a Mongolian tribe. They loved each other. The girl's name is Hulun. She is good at singing and dancing. The young man's name is Bell. He is very strong, riding and shooting well. Their life was originally carefree, but later the demon Mangers took Hulun and sucked up the water in the grassland, causing the grassland to turn yellow and the cattle and sheep to die. In order to save the grassland and his lover, Bell took his bow to avenge Mangos. In the war with the devil, the heroic Hulun swallowed the green pearl on Mangers's head to avoid being insulted by Mangers, and turned it into a mighty lake. Bell took the opportunity to kill Mangers, but he was very sad because of the sacrifice of his lover. He broke his bow, and suddenly the grassland collapsed and Bell became a clear lake.
In this way, a pair of lovers turned into two big lakes, Hulun Lake and Bell Lake, and dedicated their passionate love to the grassland. The grassland also secretly cracked an Urson River, connecting two young hearts.
The grassland flourished again, and people named it "Hulunbeier Grassland" in memory of Hulun and Bell.
The Urson River, which connects Hulun Lake and Bell Lake, belongs to the water system of the Ergon River, the border river between China and Russia. This is a winding river with nine bends leading to the ileum. Most of the rivers on the grassland are in this zigzag shape. However, a "nine turns to the ileum" has turned out the reputation of "the best water in the world", making tourists who have tasted all this "linger" and "linger"
Mozigele River also belongs to the Ergon River system, which originates from Chenbaerhu Banner at the western foot of Daxinganling, flows from northeast to southwest, and finally flows into Hailar Sea.
196 1 year, writers such as Ye Shengtao, Lao She, Cao Yu and Duanmu Hongliang were invited to visit Hulunbeier Grassland. When they saw the mill Gele River with nine twists and eighteen bends, they were all amazed. Duanmu Hongliang said, "How many rivers have I crossed, but I have never crossed such a river. How much water have I seen? I have never seen such water. " Lao She even praised this "circuitous, bright as a glass ribbon" as a veritable "first meandering water in the world".
Indeed, don't say that writers who are extremely sensitive to beauty, even ordinary people like me, can't help but be intoxicated: under the blue sky and the meadow with the first color of autumn, I saw such a continuous thin strip, winding out of the sky where green and blue meet, and then winding away towards the endless distance, concave into a W shape, bent into an S shape, and coiled up again. Such as a graceful snowflake tapestry embedded in the emerald carpet, plus small yurts and mottled cattle, sheep and horses dotted along the river, I can't help but think of Zhang Fei strangely. The book says that he is rough and delicate, and Hulunbeier grassland is vast and beautiful.
There is a scenic spot named "World Grassland Mongolian Soul Nomadic Tribe" on the banks of Mozigele River, which is one of the few cultural scenic spots on the grassland. Here, you can learn about the historical story of Genghis Khan and the customs and beliefs of the Mongolian people.
After entering the majestic gate, the first thing I saw was the sculpture of Genghis Khan riding a horse. From the end of the twelfth century to the beginning of the thirteenth century, Genghis Khan once prepared horses here, competed with various ministries, and finally occupied Hulunbeier grassland. The hemisphere under the horse shows the former territory of the Mongolian empire and the majestic posture of a generation of tianjiao. Genghis Khan once said, "Wherever my whip points, it will become my horse pasture." When brave Mongolian soldiers brought war to Europe, Christians in Europe thought it was a whip sent by God to punish them. In front of the sculpture, there is the legendary "whip of God"-a 9.9-meter-long whip, which is hand-polished with Russian mahogany.
On both sides of Wood Road, there are sacred animals of the grassland people and sculptures of the founding heroes of the Mongolian Empire. For example, the legendary story of Genghis Khan-"God of War descended from the sky" is depicted on the following bronze cylinder: Genghis Khan was born on May 3 1 162, and was born with the spear of God of War, so he was called "the Wolf King of the Grassland".
The following picture shows Bolshoy's sculpture: Bolshoy joined Temujin (Genghis Khan) in the war to unify Mongolian ministries and rescued Temujin from danger many times. He is determined to be brave, good at fighting and knowing soldiers, and has made great contributions. He was one of the top ten heroes of the Mongolian Empire, and was named a surname, King Guangping and posthumous title Loyalty.
There is also a world's largest Aobao in the world grassland scenic spot-Tengger Aobao.
"Aobao" is Mongolian, meaning "Shijie". It is an important carrier of Mongolian sacrifice. Sacrifice to Aobao is the source of shamanism, and the branches on Aobao represent the god of forest in the hearts of Mongolians. Sacrifice to Aobao can be divided into blood sacrifice, sprinkling sacrifice and fire sacrifice. Blood sacrifice means slaughtering cattle and sheep and offering sacrifices in front of Aobao. Sprinkling sacrifices means sprinkling sacrifices such as fresh milk and milk wine in front of Aobao. Fire sacrifice is to light dry branches or dung of cattle, horses and sheep in front of Aobao. The worshippers lined up three times around the fire, reciting their surnames, and then threw the whole sheep into the fire. The hotter, the better.
This Tengger Aobao was built at 20 16 with a diameter of more than 50 meters. It is the largest Aobao in the world. "Tengger" means "eternal paradise" in Mongolian, and it is the god in the hearts of Mongolians, dominating the life of all things. The establishment of Tengger Aobao shows reverence for the eternal heaven and gratitude for its protection. It is said that there are sacred stones from Mount Bourhan in this Aobao material. Bourhan Mountain: The sacred mountain of Mongolia, where Genghis Khan thrives, is famous at home and abroad for saving Genghis Khan's life three times. The Secret History of Mongolia records that Temujin, who escaped robbery and murder, went to Bourhan Mountain alone, bowed to the holy mountain nine times, and promised his descendants to worship the holy mountain every year. )
Another cultural landscape on the grassland is the Mongolian tribe of Golden Account Khan, and the layout here reproduces the account of Genghis Khan's campaign in that year. In A.D. 1202, Temujin launched a crusade against the conservative forces of Mongolian aristocrats, which was located in the area of Huitun Mountain in Mozigele Valley, so this campaign was also called "Huitun Campaign". In the battle, Temujin pretended to be defeated, lured the enemy into the depths, and then used arrows and rain to break the enemy and win. This battle consolidated his Khan status and conquered the eastern part of the Mongolian Plateau. To celebrate, Temujin set up a golden tent in the beautiful and rich Mozgele Valley. Now many film and television works about Genghis Khan are shot here.
As mentioned above, Hulunbeier grassland is the cradle of many ancient northern minorities. In a long historical period, the prairie was not as quiet as it is now. Want to know the magnificent history of many ethnic groups, the best place to go is the Hulunbeier National Museum, so next, we will move to Hailar to explore the past of Hulunbeier.
(Sculpture of Genghis Khan Square in Hailar)
Hulunbeier is not only the name of the prairie, but also a prefecture-level city in Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. The political, economic and cultural center of Hulunbeier is Hailar District, and the Hulunbeier National Museum we are going to visit is here.
Historian Jane Bozan once said: Hulunbeier Grassland has always been the historical cradle of nomadic people, and most nomadic people-Xianbei people, Qidan people, Jurchen people and Mongols-who have appeared in China's history grew up in this cradle.
In fact, this cradle also includes the virgin forest of Daxinganling. ? During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, Daxinganling and Hulunbeier were controlled by Donghu people. At the beginning of the Han Dynasty, the Xiongnu defeated Donghu, and the Donghu tribal alliance collapsed. Some Donghu people hide in Xianbei Mountain (that is, Daxinganling), so they are named "Xianbei". At this time, Hulunbeier was controlled by Xiongnu, and later Xiongnu moved westward. Xianbei people walked out of the Daxinganling jungle and came to Hulunbeier grassland, and then "honored the ancestors of the Central Plains", established the Northern Wei Dynasty and unified the world.
(Emperor Tuoba Tao of the Northern Wei Dynasty sent Li Chang, assistant minister of Chinese Department, and others to Xianbei ancestral home to worship their ancestors. )
In the long years to come, other Xianbei people, such as Shiwei Department, Uighur Department, Turkic Department, Tuoba Department, Qidan Department of Liao Dynasty, Jurchen Family of Jin Dynasty, rose one after another and ruled Hulunbeier. Until the 2nd century, Mongolian ministries quietly rose in Hulunbeier. During the war of Genghis Khan's southward expedition and the unification of Mongolian grassland, he fought several decisive battles in Hulunbeier, wiped out his political enemies and finally unified the Mongolian plateau. Since then, Mongolians with the same language, region and culture have been born on the northern grassland.
Genghis Khan's Golden Tent: the "Palace" of Mongols
After the demise of the Yuan Dynasty, the descendants of Genghis Khan retreated to the Mongolian grassland, while the descendants of Yuan Shundi wandered in the Hulunbeier grassland until they joined the Jin Dynasty. After the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, the Ewenki, Daur, Balhumongo, Oroqen and other ethnic groups living here formed the Eight Banners to guard the frontier and resist the invasion of Russia.
In the 12th year of Yongzheng in Qing Dynasty (1734), Hulunbeier was built, and the city site was in Zhengyang Street, Hailar District (that is, where the museum is located). According to historical records, the commercial trade in Hulunbeier was prosperous at that time, and shops such as Longtai and Jinxing appeared, as well as Swiss Fuchang Firm, which mainly used satin cloth.
Historically, most of the nationalities living here were forest hunters and grassland nomads. Different from farming people, their lives depend more on nature, thus forming a profound shaman belief.
(Shaman ceremony)
Shaman is a belief that worships nature, worships all things and phenomena in nature, such as heaven, earth, sun, moon, stars, mountains, water, fire, wind, thunder, rain and trees. People think that these natural beings show life, will, emotion and spirituality, so they worship and pray for them, hoping to eliminate disasters, reduce disasters and be blessed. Aobao mentioned above is one of the shaman rituals.
(Nadam convention horse racing ranking card)
In addition to shamanism, Lamaism from Tibet has also had a far-reaching impact on this region. Foreign Lamaism has survived and developed rapidly in the struggle with Shamanism.
(Lamaism musical instrument)
Different environments and beliefs have created different lifestyles, cultures and arts. The following pictures reflect the life and cultural characteristics of nomadic people:
(nomadic life living on aquatic plants)
(Birch bag: Birch bark is a common tool material)
(Pull up Ma Touqin in nature and enjoy leisure with cattle and sheep. )
(Minority musical instruments)
Not far from the National Museum is Genghis Khan Square. Just learned about the rise of Mongolia from the literature, it is very good to look at the sculpture of Genghis Khan in the square.
In the center of the square, besides Genghis Khan, there is also a group of sculptures named Zheng on one side of the square. Sculpture figures include Genghis Khan, his second brother, archers Gesar, Boroqul, Muqali, Bolshevi and Chilaowen, who are called "Four Masters", and "Four Mastiffs" such as Butai, Jeremie, Zhe Bie and Su Dai. They made many exploits in Genghis Khan's war to unify Mongolian ministries, and they were the most outstanding valiant soldiers under Genghis Khan.
In modern times, with the invasion of imperialism, the Central Plains was traumatized and the grassland people were bullied. After the fall of Northeast China, Hulunbeier became a Japanese-puppet jurisdiction, and Hailar Memorial Park, the world anti-fascist war, was the witness of that period of history.
Memorial Park is located in the north of Hailar Railway Workers' Village. It is a 5A-level war theme park. It turned out to be the Japanese Hailar fortress. Hailar Fortress is one of the two largest fortifications in 15 set up by the Japanese Kwantung Army to attack the Soviet Union (the other is Dongning Fortress in Heilongjiang Province).
There are many models of Soviet T-34 tanks and Soviet soldiers on the grass near the parking lot outside the memorial park, showing the battle scene of the Soviet Red Army conquering Hailar fortress.
The memorial park also display some weapons and vehicle of that era:
(Sanqi anti-aircraft gun)
(bacteria car)
The main landscape of the memorial garden is the ruins of Hailar fortress. Before entering the site, you will pass a museum, which shows the construction process of Hailar fortress, the tragic battle of Nomenham in the Soviet Union and Japan, and also records the heinous crime of Japanese Kwantung Army killing China laborers for secrecy after the fortress was built.
I usually rent a coat before entering the fortress site, because the temperature of the underground fortress is 20 meters deep. It was raining on the day I went, and it was already gloomy outside. After entering the fortress, I felt colder. Although there are various rooms and facilities in the fortress, such as infirmary, cooking room, toilet, office, armory, etc., it still makes people feel abnormal chill and fear, as if they have entered the horror game scene in Resident Evil.
Hailar fortress was built in 1934 and completed in 1937. It was built by the Japanese Kwantung Army under the threat of1000000 China laborers, including Aobaoshan, Beishan, Xishan and Dongshan positions. After the completion, the kwantung army killed laborers. In a mass grave between Beishan Mountain and Aobaoshan Mountain today, there are still thousands of dense white bones lying.
On August 1945 and 18, the Soviet Red Army breached Hailar fortress and the Japanese army surrendered unconditionally. ......
In the distance from the tank in the memorial garden, you can see the white stupa and the red Buddhist temple, which is another scenic spot in Hailar-the sacred mountain of two rivers.
The two rivers refer to Hailar's mother rivers, Hailar River and Yimin River, and the holy mountain refers to the sacred Aobao Mountain. This place is also called "one tower and two temples". One tower is the Tzu Chi King Kong Pagoda located in Aobao Mountain, and the other two temples are the Daljilin Temple and the Wanfo Temple located on the mountainside.
Tzu Chi King Kong Pagoda is a Tibetan-style white pagoda, which consists of tower foundation, tower body, phase wheel and brake top. The White Pagoda is very conspicuous in the distance, and it is even more holy and majestic when viewed closely.
Daljilin Temple is the gelug sect monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism. "Darjilin" means "Changsheng Temple", which means that Hulunbeier grassland is prosperous.
(Standing on the King Kong Tower of Tzu Chi overlooking Darkin Temple)
(Tianwang Temple, Da 'er Jilin Temple)
Wanfo Temple is a Han-handed temple, which was founded in Qing Dynasty. There is a strong Buddhist atmosphere here. From time to time, you can hear chanting and Buddha bells, and your soul is purified in the green grass and blue sky.
Hailar, as the city center, is here, and the next stop is Zhalainuoer, which is the hometown of mammoths, and the Hulun Lake mentioned above is also located here. Come and have a look with me.
If you haven't been to Hulunbeier, the name "Zhalainuoer" may be unfamiliar to you, but "Manzhouli" may be heard, because it has distinctive national and times characteristics.
In fact, Zhalainuoer, which is now under the jurisdiction of Manzhouli, is older and more famous in history: "Zhalainuoer" is Mongolian, which translates as "a lake like the sea", which means that the name of this grassland comes from this. In the Paleolithic Age thousands of years ago, primitive people living in today's Manzhouli area were called "Hulun Lake".
Since we are in Zhalainuoer, let's go and see Zhalainuoer (Hulun Lake) first.
Hulun Lake is located about 20 kilometers south of Zhalainuoer, sandwiched between Xinbaerhu Right Banner, Xinbaerhu Left Banner and Zhalainuoer District, with a circumference of 447 kilometers. It is the largest lake in Inner Mongolia and the fourth largest freshwater lake in China. No wonder Mongolians call it "a lake like the sea".
Hulun Lake, located in the hinterland of Hulun Buir grassland, is called "the kidney of grassland" because it plays a very important role in maintaining grassland biodiversity and enriching animal and plant resources.
Hulun Lake, also known as the "Pearl of the Grassland", may be related to the legend of Hulunbeier mentioned above: the robbed Hulunbeier took the pearl from the devil's head for the sake of pleasing the devil Mungus. Hulun knew that a pearl was clear water. In order to nourish the grassland sucked dry by the devil, she swallowed the pearl and turned it into Hulun Lake.
(There is a sculpture of Hulun holding pearls in the scenic spot)
Many people come to Hulun Lake with high expectations, but to be honest, the landscape of Hulun Lake is not so amazing. Caohai is connected with the lake, which makes the lake a little gloomy. There are not many bright buildings on the shore. I just feel like I slipped around an ordinary lake. Only the small island with a rainbow umbrella in the middle of the lake makes people feel a little unique.
(Lake Island)
Perhaps the scenic spot also felt lacking, and several groups of sculptures were arranged by the lake as compensation. Although I watched Soaring Up, my mood didn't soar up.
Maybe the angle is wrong and the weather is wrong. The next day, when the weather was fine, I saw the colorful Zhalainuoer in Mammoth Park.
As mentioned earlier, Zhalainuoer is the hometown of mammoths, so the Mammoth Park was built in Zhalainuoer New District, in which the "largest mammoth sculpture group" was awarded the Guinness World Record, with 87 mammoth sculptures of different shapes, which is very spectacular.
Have a plenty of little mammoths playing:
Have a plenty of mammoths in migration:
Some are huge and should be huge leaders:
Some are about the same size, and they should be childhood friends:
Besides mammoths, the buildings in the park are also beautiful, such as the sightseeing tower on the right and the Children's Science and Technology Museum.
The sightseeing tower is a Gothic castle in Europe.