The Beauty of Song Dynasty ___Reading Tea Record

"Tea Record" is Cai Xiang felt Lu Yu "Tea Classic" "not the first Jian'an products" and specially recommended to the emperor Beiyuan Tribute Tea works. Counting the upper and lower two, the upper part of the tea, color, aroma, taste, hidden tea, tea, tea, grinding tea, Luo tea, Hou tea, 熁 marigold, point tea ten, mainly on the quality of tea and cooking methods. The next chapter on ware, divided into tea roasting, tea cage, anvil vertebrae, tea Inscription, tea mill, tea Luo, tea calendars, tea spoons, soup bottles, nine items, the discussion of the material and the use of the key points. It is one of the most influential monographs on tea after Lu Yu's Tea Classic.

Cai Xiang (1012-1067) was a native of Xinghua Xianyou (now Fujian) in the Northern Song Dynasty. Word Junmu, for the Northern Song Dynasty famous tea identification experts. Song Renzong Qingli years (1041 ~ 1048), served as Fujian transit, responsible for supervising the production of Beiyuan Tribute Tea, created a small group of tea, known in the world.

The original text

Chai Xiang, the right of the Chaofeng Lang, with the repair of the residence note (1): I played the matter, His Majesty's Oracle Minister first served as a transfer ambassador to Fujian day, the best Dragon tea into the best. I retreat to think of the grass and trees of the micro, the first insult to His Majesty to know the identification, if the location of the right place, it can do its material. Former Lu Yu Tea Classic, not the first Jian'an products; Ding Predicate Tea Figure (2), only on the picking and manufacturing of this, as for the cooking test, there has not been heard. I always Article a number of things, simple and easy to understand, Le into two, called the tea record. Volunteer to the feast of leisure, or to give the view of the citation, I am not afraid of the honor to. Only the preface.

Notes

(1) Chaofeng Lang, the right words, with the repair of the residence note: Chaofeng Lang, the right words, all for the Northern Song Dynasty official name. Iju note, our country in ancient times, specializing in recording the emperor's words and deeds of the book. The Sui book - the book of records, said: "the residence of the note, the record record of the emperor's words and actions of the matter".

(2) Ding Pian tea: Ding Pian (966 ~ 1037), the word Pianzhi, Suzhou Changzhou (now Suzhou, Jiangsu Province). He served as Fujian Minister of Transportation, supervised the manufacture of tribute tea, and created a large dragon and phoenix cake tea, which was the most expensive tea in the Song Dynasty, and Ouyang Xiu praised in the "Return to the Field Records", "The product of the tea is no more expensive than the dragon and phoenix, which is known as the group of tea." The author of "Beiyuan Tea Records" three volumes.

The original article on tea

Color Tea color is white. And cake tea more to the precious cream oil its surface, so there are green, yellow, purple and black differences. The good special tea, just as the phase of the worker's glance at the color of the people. (1), hidden to detect within. Flesh reasonably moist for the top, both have not been, yellow and white by the water fuzzy heavy, green and white by the water distinct, so the Jianan people open test (2), to green and white than yellow and white.

Huang Ru "tea to record" said the tea buds square steam, to gas for the wait, depending on the can not not be rigorous. Try the color yellow and corn lines large, overcooked disease. However, although overripe, the more than not ripe, sweet flavor wins. Therefore, Junmu on the color, the green and white than yellow and white; Yu on the flavor, the yellow and white than green and white.

香 Tea has a real fragrance. And the tribute to the micro lobster brain and cream, to help its fragrance. Jian'an folk are not into the incense, for fear of taking away its true. If the cooking time, and mixed fruits and herbs, it is better. Just do not use.

Zhu Quan "tea" in the incense tea method All flowers can be fragrant. When the flowers are in full bloom, paper bamboo cage two apart, the upper layer of tea, the lower layer of flowers, it is appropriate to seal the solid, after a few nights to open for the old flowers. After a few days, the tea will have its own aroma. There is no need to use flowers, with lobster smoked can also be.

"Continued Tea Classic" is the cloud tea sex obscene, easy to dye, no matter fishy and dirty and have a breath of things should not be close, that is, the famous incense should not be close.

Taste tea flavor is mainly sweet and smooth. But Beiyuan Phoenix Hill even the baked ones produced by the good taste. (3) the mountains across the stream, although timely and deliberate production, color and taste are heavy, and can not be. There are also water springs are not sweet can damage the flavor of tea. The previous generation of the water quality of this (4).

? Song Zian also cloud alone Beiyuan even belong to the mountains is the best, Beiyuan front pillow stream, than involving miles, why tea gas are trap color turbid, taste especially thin and evil, not to mention its far away? It is also like orange over the Huai for Hovenia.

Hidden tea tea is suitable for Ruo leaf and fear of incense and medicine (5), like warm and dry and avoid wet and cold. Therefore, the collection of home, to Ruo leaf wrapped into the baking, two or three days once, with the fire is often as warm as the human body, the Royal wet. If the fire is more tea coke can not be eaten.

Scorched tea tea or years, the aroma color flavor are Chen. In a clean vessel to the boiling soup impregnated, scrape off the cream one or two heavy is stopped, to Inscription clamp (6), micro-fire scorching dry, and then crushed and crushed. If the year new tea, then do not need to say.

Tea grinding Tea grinding tea first wrapped in clean paper and crushed, and then cooked and crushed. The main point is that the spinning and grinding is white, or the color has been dusky by the lodging.

Luo tea Luo rules tea floating, coarse water floating (7).

Waiting for soup (8) Waiting for soup is the most difficult. Uncooked foam floating, overcooked tea sinking, the former world called the crab's eye (9), overcooked soup. Sink the bottle in the cooking can not be argued, so it is said to wait for the soup is the most difficult.

熁盏(10)。 "Where you want to point tea. First of all, you have to make the tea hot. Cold tea does not float.

Spot Tea Tea less soup more, then cloud feet scattered (11); soup less tea more, then porridge face gathered (12). One Qian dagger of money tea, the first injection of soup to make very uniform, and then add the injection ring back to hit the whisk. Soup on the calabash can be four points to stop, depending on the color of its fresh white, no water marks on the calabash is excellent. Jian'an bucket test, the first water marks for the negative, durable for the win, so more winners and losers said, said that one water away from two water (13).

Notes

(1) as the phase worker's glance at the color: phase worker, to occupy the phase for people as a profession. Glance, evil eye.

(2) Jian'an: the name of the county in the Han Dynasty, the Tang Dynasty called Jianzhou, that is, today's Jian'ou County, Fujian Province, the county boundary of Jianxi, Phoenix Hill, etc., known for the production of "Beiyuan Tribute Tea".

(3) Beiyuan Phoenix Hill: Phoenix Hill in Fujian Jian'an County, twenty miles west, for the "Beiyuan Tribute Tea" main source. Phoenix Hill in the east of the stream, Phoenix Hill in the west of the stream, collectively known as Phoenix Hill.

Ding said the cloud Phoenix Mountain is not 100 feet high, no dangerous room ?'?, and the Gang Fu surrounded by the momentum of the soft show, it is appropriate to Jia Zhi spiritual flowers of the hair is also.

(4) the previous generation of water products: refers to the Tang Dynasty, Zhang Wenxin compiled "Pan-fried tea water record", the book contained Lu Yu listed twenty products: Mount Lu Kang Wang Valley curtain water first; Wuxi County Huishan Temple stone spring water second; herb state Lanxi under the stone water third; Gorge fan under the mountains of the state has a stone suddenly, water leakage alone cold, like a tortoise, commonly known as the mouth of the toad, the fourth; Suzhou, Hukushu Temple stone spring water fifth; Mount Lu, the temple below the bridge pool water sixth; Yangzi River, South zero zero, the water: the water is not a hundred feet high, no dangerous room Jiejie ? and Gangfu ring gas is soft and good. ; Yangzi River South Zero water seventh; Hongzhou West Shanxi East Waterfall water eighth; Tongzhou Tongbai County, Huai water source ninth, Huai water is also good; Lushu Longchi Mountain Ridge water tenth; Danyang County, Guanyin Temple water eleventh; Yangzhou Daming Temple water twelfth; Hanjiang River, Jinzhou, the upper reaches of the Middle Zero water thirteenth, the water is bitter; return to the state of the Yuxu Cave under the Xiang Xi water fourteenth; Shangzhou Wuguanxi Luohui water fifteenth; have not tasted the mud. Wu Songjiang water sixteenth; Tiantai Mountain southwest peak of a thousand waterfalls water seventeenth; Chenzhou round spring water eighteenth; Tonglu Yanlingtan water nineteenth; snow water twentieth, with the snow must not be too cold.

Ming Zhu Quan another order of four products: Qingcheng Mountain, the old man village Qiquan water first, Zhongshan eight merits second, Hongyi Dantan water third, Zhugen spring water fourth.

(5) Tea should be Ruo leaves and fear of medicine: Ruo, read as weak, leaves such as bamboo and weak. Fear of medicine, tea has a very strong absorption of odor, so the most afraid and other spices and medicines set aside together.

(6) to Inscription clamp: Inscription, hot tea utensils. See the next part: "Qu Jin iron for it, used to roast tea."

(7) Coarse is water floating: water floating, meaning that the tea powder is coarse, the water can not penetrate, the water and the tea powder does not dissolve.

(8) Waiting for the soup: the ancient point of tea special wooden language. Refers to grasp the moderation of the decoction of water, Lu Yu "tea" "five of the cooking" in the words: "its boiling such as fish eyes, micro-sound for a boil, edge of the edge such as gushing springs beads for the second boil, tengbo bulging waves for the third boil, has been on the old water can not eat." Later, the blind soup tea flavor is not cooked not rolled out so you can not drink, overcooked and rolled the old soup tea lack and bitter so not good to drink, has been cooked and rolled the tender soup sweet and smooth aroma and freshness is available to drink the best tea soup. Or: "tender soup is not out of the tea force, over-boiling is the old water and tea lack". Visible, point of tea water should be cooked to just right, not old and not tender.

(9) the previous generation called the crab's eye: the Tang Dynasty people use "fish eye", "crab eye" metaphor for the decoction of the Cheng color. Such as Pi Rixiu "tea poems": "look at the crab eye splash, at first sight of fish scales floating". Crab eye shape small and thin, abrupt and round, compared to the fish eye big and thick, flat and flat, it is the water is cooked and rolled the initial situation, is the real water is cooked and not old tender soup.  

(10) 熁 zhan, the ancients point tea special terminology. That is, before injecting the soup light with boiling water or charcoal fire to the tealight heating.

Song Huizong Zhao Ji in the "Daguan tea theory" also pointed out that: "the calabash but hot, the tea hair standing durable. Song Dingzhan tire bone delicate white, glaze bright, neat, beautifully printed, the texture is far better than Jianzhan, and from Bianliang near, and Song Huizong to seek far away from the near, the only respected Jianzhan, just for the black fixed, purple fixed tire wall is extremely thin, 熁 after calendars will be rapidly cooled, difficult to heat preservation, the cold tea does not float, the water marks are easy to appear, is not suitable for the requirements of the fight tea. And Jianjian heavy body, "熁 of long hot and hard to cold, the most to use", "out of other places, or thin or color purple, are not as good as also", therefore, the bucket test home since not used.

(11) cloud feet scattered: the ancient tea special terminology. Refers to the tea less water more tea some floating in the water, some floating in the water, as scattered as cloud feet. Cloud foot is also the name of the tea.

Song Mei Yaochen "Song writings send phoenix tea" said: "cloud feet commonly treasured, bird's mouth boasts still many." Cloud feet, bird's mouth are cloud tea. 

(12) congee face poly: the ancient tea special terminology. Refers to the water less tea more. Tea leaves are not gathered in the water, such as boiling porridge surface. Builders called the cloud foot porridge noodles.

? Song Zian Yun "buds choose fat milk, then sweet and porridge surface with the calendars and not scattered; soil barren and buds short, then the cloud foot disorganized, go to the calendars and easy to disperse" porridge surface cloud foot is also depending on the merits of the tea.

(13) is said to go one water two water: the ancients fight tea, more than once, for example, fight three times there are two first see water marks for negative. Song chao Tuanzhi poem: "Jian'an a water to two water, compared to how to know the path and Wei?"

The next article on the original text of the tea

Tea roasters Tea roasters woven bamboo wrapped in Ruo leaves, covered with its top, to collect fire also. Separate them, in order to have the capacity. Na fire its go tea feet, often warm and warm, so the tea color and flavor.

? Tea cage tea is not baked, it is appropriate to seal the package, to Ruo cage, placed in a high place, not near the moisture.

?


? Tea Inscription Tea Inscription is made of gold or iron and is used to roast tea.

Tea Mills Tea mills are made of silver or iron. While gold is soft, copper and Onggi are both capable of generating iron(2), and are not used for this purpose.

Tea Ro Tea Ro is best when it is absolutely fine. Luo bottom with shu dongchuan goose creek painting silk of the dense, cast in the soup kneading to power (3). (Rules tea floating, coarse is water floating.)

Tea calendars (4) tea color white, suitable for black calendars, made in Jian'an cyanine black, lines such as rabbit hair (5), the billet is slightly thick, the long hot and hard to cold, the most important thing to use. Out of other places, or thin or color purple, are not as good. The green and white marigolds, bucket test home since not used

? Teaspoon Teaspoon to be heavy, hit whisk powerful. Gold for the top, the earth to silver and iron. Bamboo light, build tea do not take. (Ming Zhu Quan to coconut shell for the best)

? Bottle bottle bottle to be small easy to wait for soup, and point of tea note soup have quasi. Gold for the top, the earth to silver, iron or porcelain stone. (Zhu Quan said the uncooked foam floating, overcooked tea sinking)

Notes

(1) anvil vertebrae: anvil, pronounced true, anvil. Vertebra, whacking tools, such as wooden vertebrae, iron vertebrae.

(2) Copper and Onggi are all capable of generating rust: Onggi, as explained in the Jiyun, "Iron clothes are also iron". It is the rust of metal. Onggi, natural brass, natural copper or copper and furnace glycerite **** refined brass.

Zhu Quan "Tea" said gold, silver, copper, iron can be born in the pores, to the best of the green pores. Tea scripture" contained grinding to orange wood for the second pear, mulberry, tung cudgel for the mortar, the inner circle and the outer square. Inside the round ready to run also, outside the square system of its pouring danger also.

(3) awarded the soup rubbing and washing to power: power, cover, cover.

(4) tealight: teacups. Dialect", "Jiantan, cup also". Song tealight valuable varieties, rabbit hair marigold: glaze distribution striped dialysis crystal mottled, fine as rain, soft as rabbit hair; partridge spot marigold: glaze pattern was rounded spots, such as a partridge bird wished to be beautiful plume, but also if the oil beads floating, also known as oil drop marigolds; wood leaf marigold: in the marigold filled with mulberry leaves, linden leaves, etc., fired; applique marigold: paper cutouts pasted into the body of the burnt into the beautiful and noble; persimmon marigold: glaze color such as the ripe persimmon in the autumn; wu jin marigold : pure color black quartz, simple and elegant.

(5) Jian'an made by cyanine black, lines such as rabbit hair: cyanine, dark green with red color. Texture such as rabbit hair, black glaze surface with fine silky white speckles, shaped like rabbit hair. According to this cup called "black glaze rabbit hair cup" for Jian'an Tribute, the Northern Song dynasty royal special.

Original text

After the preface Minister Huang You in the repair of the residence note (1), play things Emperor Renzong, repeatedly asked the sky to Jian'an Tribute tea and so try the tea of the situation. I said that although the tea is forbidden in the language, no matter in the secret, make tea record two up. After knowing Fuzhou, for the palm of the Secretary to steal the hidden ligustrum (2), no longer be able to remember. Zhi wai'an county fan ji purchase, so to publish le line in the good, but more mistakes (3). I remembered the late emperor's grace, the book shed tears, always add Zhengding, book in stone (4), in order to perpetuate its biography. Zhi Ping first year (5) May 26th, the three ministers to make the minister Cai Xiang to remember (6).

Notes

(1) the minister huangyou zhongxiu qiju note: huangyou for the north song renzong year, when in the period of 1049 ~ 1053 AD.

(2) after knowing Fuzhou, for the palm of the Secretary to steal the hidden manuscripts, know, host. The latter was the head of the Fuzhou prefecture, and the head of the Fuzhou prefecture was the head of the Fuzhou prefecture. The secretary, the government office subordinate official, in charge of the paper to play official documents.

(3) more mistaken: mistaken, read as ship, wrong meaning.

(4) book in stone: the first year of the Song Zhiping (1064), Huai'an order Fan Ji will be Cai Xiang's book "Tea Records" le stone, real regular small characters, is considered to be the best of the book.

(5)Zhiping yuan year: Zhiping is the year number of Song Yingzong. The first year of Zhiping was 1064 AD.

(6) the three secretaries make, to the minister: all the Northern Song official name. The Northern Song Dynasty, the three secretaries of state in charge of the country's money, balanced financial income and expenditure, for the central government's highest financial officer, known as the "plan phase". Song ZhiZhong sub-governance of the daily affairs of the province, read the internal and external cashier documents, refute the government decree, the official inappropriateness of the day record zhangzhang into the corrective treatment of its violations.

Another note:

1 Jane paste is also known as "tea paste". Ancient tea accessories. Song dynasty production of tea cakes in the tea body outside the brush paste liquid, mainly to enhance the beauty and delay the aging.

2 goose silk produced in sichuan province yanting county goose silk. Tribute to the Tang Dynasty, Song calligraphy and painting especially important. Song Su Shi "Wen and can have a poem sent in rhyme to answer": "for the love of Goose Creek white cocoon light, sweep away the chicken distance purple hair mane.''

3 Doo test this refers to the fight tea, that is, the merits of the race tea, also known as the fight Ming, Ming war. Tea fighters take the good tea, take turns cooking, tasting and evaluation of the high and low. Started in the Tang Dynasty, flourished in the Song Dynasty. Mei Fei biography of Xuanzong and Mei Fei Fei tea fight, the king of Gu said: "This plum essence. Blowing white jade flute, made "dance", a light. Fighting tea today and win me carry on." Consort responded: "The play of grass and trees, mistakenly won His Majesty. If you make the harmonization of the four seas, cooking tripods and nabe -, ten thousand multipliers have their own constitution, the concubine how can compare the winners and losers also." And Song Jiang Huufu "Jia You Magazine" said Su Caiweng tasted with Cai Junmu fight tea, Cai tea fine, with Huishan spring; Su tea bad, changed to use bamboo leaching water frying, and then win. (The renewal of the tea Jing Su Choy Weng tea with Tiantai bamboo leaching water is bamboo dew non-bamboo leaching, if today's medical practitioners use fire to force the bamboo to take leaching breaks not suitable for tea carry on).

4 Beiyuan tea, build the beauty of the tea, the number "Beiyuan tea". The renewal of the tea scripture" said the tea to taste on, sweet and heavy slippery for the taste of the whole, but the Beiyuan gully source of the product both, outstanding products of the true fragrance of the spiritual flavor naturally different.

The name of Beiyuan began in the Five Dynasties, Song Yao Kuan in the "Xixi Series of Words" in the record: "Jianzhou dragon baking face north, called the North Garden. Jiajing "Jianning Fu Zhi" also contains: "Longqi (Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Yanjun year number), Li people Zhang Tinghui to live in the place suitable for tea, all the loss of the official, from the beginning of the name of the North Garden."

Shen Kuo "Dream Stream Pen Talk - Supplementary Pen Talk Volume 1" to investigate its source: today's Jianzhou Phoenix Hill, the natives are said to be "North Garden", said Jiangnan tasted the officer to lead it, called "North Garden to make". I read the collection of Li Houzhu, there are "North Garden" and "Wenyuan record", know that the North Garden is Jiangnan forbidden garden, in Jinling, not Jian'an. Jiangnan Beiyuan make, is now within the garden make. Li's time there is Beiyuan make good tea, people competing for expensive, called "Beiyuan tea", now there are tea "bachelor ou" and so on, all due to the name of the person, not the name of the place. Ding Jin Gong for the "Beiyuan tea records" cloud: "Beiyuan, Li name is also, now said the dragon baking." Another cloud: "the court, the name of the garden of the son of heaven. This is in the county of the east corner, why is the name of the North Garden?" Ding also suspected, cover do not know "Beiyuan tea" is not the name of the place. Beiyuan tea" is not the name of the place. It was misrepresented, since the Jin Gong in the book, so far it is called "Beiyuan".

5 Onggi, Onggi, Onggi, natural brass, natural copper, or brass made from copper and glyptolite. In the Three Kingdoms' Jonghye, "Onggi is like grass, Onggi is like gold."

6Dragon and Phoenix Tea, Beiyuan Tea is known for its Dragon and Phoenix Tea, which is no longer perforated like in the Tang Dynasty, but is molded with a model engraved with dragon and phoenix motifs. Song Taipingxingguo years ( 976 -- 983 ), the tribute is mainly dragon and phoenix group tea. At the beginning of Xianping ( 998 -- 1003 ), Ding Pian made "Big Dragon Dumplings" to pay tribute to the royal family, the quality of which was better than the Dragon and Phoenix Dumpling Tea. Qingli ( 1041 -- 1048 ), Cai Xiang made "small dragon group", more than "big dragon group" is better. Since the Yuanfeng to Shao Sheng ( 1078 -- 1097 ), "Miyun Long" and "Ruiyun Xianglong" between out, the quality of its more valuable.

7 tea roasting, tea baking apparatus, baking sound times. Ancient Han handicraft workshop for the manufacture of tea is also known as tea roasting. According to the "Song history - geography" mentioned Jian'an have Beiyuan tea roasting. Beiyuan imperial tea baking workshop also known as dragon baking. Ding said the total record of Jianxi official and private roasters thousand three hundred and thirty-six ears.

8 "Beiyuan tea record" also known as "Jian'an tea record", about the book in the Song Xianping two years (999), has not been handed down, where the three volumes, the record of tribute to the method of tea production. Chao Gongwu of the Southern Song Dynasty, "County Zhai Reading Journal": "said Xianping in the Min Cao, supervising the state, creating the scale, exquisite and rigorous. Recorded the number of its garden baking, drawing apparatus, and the narrative harvesting into the tribute method."

9 transit ambassador, the early Song for the centralization of financial power, set the road transit ambassador in charge of all the way to the financial resources, and monitor the local officials, the official high rank heavy for the transit ambassador, referred to as the Cao, in fact, for the government, the state above the chief executive.

10 point tea, popular in the Song dynasty tea leaves in a tea bowl, injected into a small amount of boiling water into a paste, and then injected into the boiling water, or directly into the tea bowl into the boiling water, while stirring with a tea brush, tea floating, forming a porridge, different from the Tang dynasty decoction of tea.

11 not the first Jian'an products, Huang Ru "Tea Tasting Record" in the past, Lu Yu, known as the tea, but the knowledge of the feather, are today's so-called grass tea. Why. As discussed by Hong Jian, steamed bamboo shoots and leaves, afraid to flow its cream, cover grass tea flavor short and light, so often afraid to go to the cream; Jian tea force thick and sweet, so only want to go to the cream. And the theory of fujian for unspecified, often get it, its flavor is excellent. From this point of view, Hongjian had never been to Jian'an. The Xuanhe Beiyuan Tribute Tea Record says, "In the old days, the mountains and rivers were still in the mountains and rivers were still in the mountains and rivers. In the past, when the mountains and rivers were still covered, the spiritual buds were not exposed, and by the end of the Tang Dynasty, Beiyuan was the most popular tea.