Zhenyuan, also an ancient town. Before I came to Guizhou, I only heard about it from MissGu's mouth, and only checked its location on the map in a hurry before I left on my trip. Other than that, nothing. Maybe because I am used to seeing the ancient towns of Jiangnan, habit makes natural, natural to it is not how super passion it, just take it as a walking station, that's all.
In this way, with a calm mood, let the train in the bumpy road after the next afternoon, peacefully brought us to the ancient town of Qiandongnan. Just like writing a small article to be able to first suppress or ambush padding, a train, to be exact, from the train to rush to the lodging inn on the road, I fell in love with this in the green mountains surrounded by water and the old-fashioned small town. And with nearly two days of walking, but also this love will be implemented to the extreme, and sincere, from the heart, really has nothing to do with the beginning of my padding. If it is really related to my opening pad, it is also pure coincidence. I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to do that.
I remember a good song, called "because of a person, in love with a city", romantic, beautiful. But there is no one I love in the small town of Zhenyuan, I still love her. Visible, the world is not all things have cause, sometimes like, or love, is a good, can comfort the soul or with the heart of the feeling is just, very simple, very pure.
With the Jiangnan water town, Zhenyuan Ancient City is also built on the river, depending on the river and living, a blue water called Maoyang River through the city, so that the small city has the spirit of the gas. The difference is that the green hills on both sides of the Maoyang River are erect and beautiful, and the mountains are connected to each other, and they are lush and green. Therefore, Zhenyuan Ancient City is also built on the mountain, living on the mountain. Because there are mountains and water, mountains and water, so, Zhenyuan small town, not only has the Jiangnan ancient town of the spirit of introverted gas, more both inland ancient city of the calm straight white handsome rhyme.
The main street of the ancient city is distributed along the river on both sides of the mountain, the river side of the forest between the ancient houses, that is, without half a point of complexity, and even direct traffic traffic lights are not. Green stone paved streets, bustling pedestrians and vehicles, no scrambling, no grudges. Cars rely on the horn, rely on humility, people rely on eyes, rely on ears, rely on self-awareness. A piece of harmony, there is no wrong. This makes the usual habit of looking at the lights and walking I was both surprised and a little uncomfortable.
Zhenyuan is simple.
Zhenyuan is also subtle.
"Crooked door and evil way" is a pejorative word in daily life, but if you borrow the harmonic change to "crooked door and oblique way", used to summarize the streets, houses, and ancient lanes of Zhenyuan Old Town, it is more than appropriate. Because the Maoyang River is s-shaped zigzag through the city, then the river built by the mountains and the old city, street houses and ancient alleys naturally follow the trend, and no longer follow the rules of what to pay attention to what sits in the north to the south, east and west, or what the north and south direction. So you will find that the foot of the mountain residence, the door opened in which there are, naturally, the alley is also curved around the seven turns to the households associated with each other. But no matter how you turn, the alleys are all connected, and their openings always face the main street. Therefore, even I have no sense of direction, as much as possible in the inside of the walk as you wish, rest assured boldly stroll, as long as you want to come out, towards the direction of the river on the right. Unlike Wuzhen, labyrinth, around and around, get it wrong from time to time to go back, or go a lot of the way, turn around and find still in the same place, like my confused people, there must be an understanding of the people with in order to swim complete.
In this case, Zhenyuan's simple is straightforward and dry, not around the bend; Zhenyuan's subtle, although around the bend, but let the simple people feel the mind, find the exit. In short, whether simple or subtle, it is transparent, no deliberate hiding. In a word, it feels reliable, with a steady sense of security. This is extremely similar to my straightforward and open-minded personality, and it is no wonder that the interests are similar. I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to do that!
Zhenyuan's ancient alley is not wide, green stone pavement, steps layer upon layer, twisting and turning back and forth, a glance can not see the head, the feeling that there is always a way to go, so there is no cramped and depressing feeling. Hanging on both sides of a string of red lanterns, as well as the occasional climbing hanging on the walls of the flowers and grasses, so that it is rustic and no loss of joy. Walking here, you will never rise "Rainy Lane" sadness and uncertainty, hovering in the heart of the whole is to the ancient quiet, far away, or time and space stationed in time, calm, calm, a kind of not angry, not sad, not annoyed, not worry, and the beauty of the serenity of the encounter, is to sit on the green stone steps, send a lifetime of stay do not feel dull and boring years of quiet and good times.
Alley street on both sides are built according to the mountain terrain and the characteristics of the residential. The high walls of the compound, quite some of the feeling of the Qiao family compound. Most of the houses are brick and wood structure, Huizhou architectural style. High wall brick cap, herringbone ridge in the middle and the side of the house hill son are upward again more than a meter high powder wall. The corner of the wall, the corner of the room, even the corner of the doorway are all upward, such as spreading the wings of the bird that is flying, giving people a kind of break free from the constraints of the Yingqi of the sky.
Walls have hollowed out, doors and windows also have hollowed out and carved patterns, but compared to the Jiangnan waterfront hollowing and carving of the exquisite craftsmanship, this is simply even a baby, to be simple and simple. Courtyards are mostly courtyard or triad, there is no carved and hollowed out moon gate, there is no corridor type of shelter, in the middle of an open courtyard, simple, open. The lintel of the main door of the room door is horizontal and vertical, with red couplets pasted on it, and the door panel is affixed with the mighty god of the door. "Wine is not afraid of deep alleys", many courtyard homes in line with the times, both their own residential life, but also to meet the needs of tourists, opened into an inn, wine shop, restaurant, teahouse, all kinds of stores, etc., business is very good, full of the breath of life.
Smoke and fire flavor of human taste, this is the unique charm of Zhenyuan Old Town, but also bring me deep thinking place. History and modern life link fusion, only to make this long, this lifeline has been inherited to survive, so that it continues to live in the present, so that it has been full of vitality and vitality, so that people approach it, understand it, into its sense of intimacy. If it is only framed in the past at a certain point, sealed in the past memory, only as it is for future generations to visit and admire the awe of the history of tribute, memory, it is also disconnected from life, only became a cold props, furnishings, a dead body is just. Ancient buildings, or history, both the precipitation of the past years, but also the future extension of time. Standing in the present node, looking back, the long river of history from afar, "the river, who first saw the moon? When did the river and the moon first shine on people?" Looking forward, the long river of history is far away again, "I don't know who is waiting for the moon on the river, but I can see the Yangtze River sends flowing water". The past, present and future is a long river that flows endlessly, and it is the ordinary life of the people in the city for thousands of years that makes it flow into a landscape.
Early in the morning, the black mountains, jade belt-like Maoyang River, the river fishing boats, the river bank forest scaled old houses, are caged in the soft mist, dreamy, indistinct. If incarnated as a bird, high altitude overlooking, you can imagine, the entire Zhenyuan ancient city, at this time like a bride to be married, clad in a white veil, turn back a smile, a hundred charming thousand daughters, pouring the country, and want to say yet to rest.
The flashing lights, night cruise ships, open-air stalls, a steady stream of tourists, selling wine girl yelling, do butterfly cake brother's showmanship ...... miscellaneous and not annoying, miscellaneous and not chaotic. Here there is no sale of goods trombone shouting, there is no popularity of China and even the world's big mom dancing square dance, the old people are sitting on the steps of the river port bench, smoking, chess, chatting, cool, the children on the side of the running and jumping to do the game, watching the water and watching the lights and watching the shadow of the ...... noisy but not noisy, haunted but not noisy. Everything is just fine the way.
The ancient city of Zhenyuan at night is lively and quiet.
The river bank, Linlin always open all kinds of bars, cafes, inns, slow time, a meter of sunshine, Zhenyuan public house, Miss Dong bar, etc., lighting and name, are full of cultural and creative atmosphere. The lighting is either bright or raspy, and the music is either soothingly sad or sharply uplifting.
Wandering in the streets of the old city, blowing the cool wind, watching the flickering lights, passing people. Or spend five dollars, buy a small bowl of sweet noodles, eat while strolling. Tired, to the nearest river port to sit down, look at the wave of light and shadow, fluctuations in the shadow shake.
You can also wander along the river, a cup of coffee, a cup of wine, a little petty mood; but also with three or five friends, in the night stalls to eat barbecue, smoky in the wine, happy, open-minded drinking ......
A cup of coffee, a cup of wine, a journey, a story. The sadness and happiness are all the norm in life.
What settles down is the quiet years.
(A thousand readers have a thousand Hamlets in their hearts. The way you see, hear, think, and feel is all from a personal perspective.)
(A thousand readers have a thousand Hamlets.