I arrived in Kaili, Guizhou that day and went straight to Baimei Village, Baiyan, Leishan. As a poverty alleviation project of China Foundation for Poverty Alleviation, the completion of village houses has brought opportunities for tourism development in Baiyan Miao Village surrounded by mountains.
The night is like ink, cars are hovering on the mountain road, and the mighty evening wind is carrying frogs everywhere. After putting the luggage and backpacks in the village room, the housekeeper has cooked the meal and waited for us for a long time. The unique vegetation spices in Yunnan-Guizhou region give off a mouth-watering fragrance in dishes.
Suddenly there was a melodious sound of lusheng in the distance, continuous and clear. The housekeeper said it was a celebration after transplanting rice in the stockade, and everyone was dancing Lusheng dance.
What a novel and full scene it is! The housekeeper said that when the farm was busy, the villagers helped me and I helped you. After finishing their work, they got together, played reeds and danced to celebrate the end of farm work. We finished our meal in a hurry and asked the housekeeper to take us to the dance scene to find out.
Leaving the village hotel restaurant and walking on the dark mountain road, we turned on the light of our mobile phone and chased the source of Lusheng. On a Little Square not far from the village hotel, a group of men and women dressed in Miao costumes formed a circle and danced to the rhythm of the music.
A song seems to have no end. Asked how long the housekeeper could jump, the elder sister smiled and said when she was tired and when she didn't jump.
It's really interesting. As an outsider, the words and deeds of the people here, even the working tools, can arouse my curiosity.
The country house is simple and elegant in the night in Shan Ye, and the lights can shine on it. The neighbor's trellis and grape trellis in the stockade live next to the village hut, and the tile moss and sink under the eaves are clearly visible.
The whole building was rebuilt on the basis of villagers' idle diaojiao building. Although slightly lower, the layout is unique. The fabrics in Miao township are wrapped in pillows and bedding, dotted with the unique local flavor of ethnic minorities. If there is no frog croaking, it will sneak in with the evening breeze, never tired, never tired.
Early in the morning, I opened the curtains and was instantly stunned by what I saw. Terraces crisscross and houses are scattered in the middle. In the valleys and mountains of terraced fields in the distance, clouds are lingering. You may think it's a fairyland, but it's really human.
For a moment, I was vaguely worried that the terraced fields would disappear. I grabbed my camera and walked down the Shan Ye path full of flowers, across the terraced fields and all the way down.
The Miao village in the early morning is quiet and serene, and the smoke and clouds are integrated. The green hills outside the mountain outline undulating and winding black lines. Looking back from the bottom, the path was submerged in the terraces of thousands of rice seedlings. The terraced fields are green and lush, and the Shui Ze in the fields is like a mirror, reflecting the morning sky.
I met a Miao elder brother who came to his terrace with cattle. I accosted him and asked him how did you start farming after all the other people's houses were transplanted? He smiled and said he didn't understand. I even spoke with gestures, pointed to the terraced fields where seedlings had been planted, and repeated the question. This time, he understood and said, it's not too late. All other plots have been inserted, and this piece of land is left. After ploughing today, we can transplant rice seedlings, soon.
Although it sounds hard to understand, I can understand it. I continued, gesticulating, and asked if I needed to rake the soil after plowing. He said, hey, yes. As he spoke, he put the plow on the back of the cow, holding the bamboo pole in his left hand and the plow in his right hand. He waved the bamboo pole, and the cow obediently went to the field as instructed. Ploughshares dig out the dark brown mud one by one. It can be seen that the fields here are quite fertile. Mountains, cows and farmers are reflected on terraced fields in Shui Ze, which is an unparalleled human landscape.
I think this kind of painting will still make me move and yearn for it after many years.
After breakfast at the village lodge, the village chief came over and said, we are going to see Lusheng Dance and Bench Dance, and today they are going to compete in the neighboring village. Then he said that our village is the first place every year, and there are too many prizes ... Standing at the door of the restaurant, he pointed not far away-that's where we entertain and dance. Looking at the terraced fields, the Miao people dressed in costumes in Little Square are already making preparations.
When they passed by, a Miao aunt was helping a little girl arrange her headdress. I have long heard that Miao costumes in Qiandongnan are noble and gorgeous. Sure enough, they are not amazing at close range. From head to toe, almost every part is words and stories. There are countless headdresses, face ornaments, neck ornaments, shoulder ornaments, chest ornaments, waist ornaments, arm ornaments, foot ornaments and hand ornaments, and their movements and postures all show different ethnic customs.
Old people have the charm of old people, and young people have the elegance of young people. People are exposed to terraced fields in the wilderness, melting into mountains and valleys, and dancing with Lusheng, which is quite tacky.
Five old people are playing lusheng. They accompanied the Miao women with a long lusheng in the middle of the circle surrounded by them.
The housekeeper of the village lodge said that the Lusheng dance step is a three-step turn back to express the feeling of leaving home. She said that Miao people migrated frequently in their early years, and people also pursued optimism in their turbulent lives, singing and dancing, which gradually evolved into this dance form. Lusheng dance of Miao nationality is slightly different due to different regions. Lusheng Dance of Miao people in Leishan has different dances due to different festival contents. Every dance contains certain content, which is beautiful, natural, harmonious and harmonious, with distinctive regional characteristics, and also carries many important historical and cultural information and original memories of the Miao people.
Bench dance is another characteristic traditional dance here. It is said that the Miao people wearing short skirts are the most solemn etiquette to bid farewell. When they dance to the music, they play the sound of "overlapping" rhythmically, which is crisp, cheerful, simple, natural and warm, conveying people's attitude towards life here, being positive and optimistic, and being indifferent.
I went to see a "mountaineering festival" in the neighboring village, but I really can't understand the meaning of this festival literally. Only by asking the staff of the village hostel and the village head did we know that the origin of "Mountaineering Festival" was related to the love of young men and women in their early years. In the early years, when young Miao boys saw a girl, they would pay attention to her whereabouts, and then invited three or five friends to sing folk songs near the girl's appearance. The girl responded to the natural situation alone, so she also invited friends to help out with the song. Over time, it evolved into a group activity.
With the development of the times and the impact of the culture outside the mountain, the marriage custom of fixing love by songs still exists, but it is rare. However, at present, this activity has become a form of gathering in villages to hold literary competitions. On a specific day, villages take turns sitting in villages, holding folk Lusheng Dance Competition, Miao Song Competition, and fighting cocks and dogs, with tens of thousands of tourists from all directions.
When we arrived, the mountain roads along the way were already shoulder to shoulder, and all kinds of local food stalls were filled on both sides of the road. It seems that "Mountaineering Festival" is also a day for local people to have a picnic. On the grasslands, hillsides and slightly empty places on both sides of the mountain road, people are in groups of three or five, holding a big pot, and large pieces of meat are rolling in the soup, and the aroma is overflowing. Seeing me taking pictures, a big brother invited me with a beer in his hand: Come, have a drink. The scene is real and natural, and the characters are warm and simple.
Great beauty is often silent, just exist quietly in a corner of the world. For example, the roadside waterfall not far from the village house, whether anyone appreciates it or not, falls from the top of the mountain and then flows to the invisible cliff; There is also Xiangshuiyan Waterfall in the dense forest under the cliff. I don't know where it comes from and where it flows. Standing on the cliff road, a white jade belt surges in the dense green. There should be a big river in the bottomless abyss. Perhaps it is these water sources that moisten the beautiful mountains and rivers, nourish this Miao township, and make this land of fish and rice refreshing.
Walking on the mountain road at will, I met an elder sister carrying a snakeskin bag. I greeted her: go to work in the fields.
She smiled without a word.
I pointed to the snakeskin bag and asked what was in it. It looks heavy.
She answered, but I didn't understand.
She looked at me as if she didn't understand, then put the bag down, opened it and said it was red.
Finally, I understood that she went to plant sweet potatoes in the field because the sweet potatoes inside grew long and full buds.
Passing through a terraced field without transplanting rice seedlings, a farmer's eldest brother was chasing something in the mud with a transparent bamboo basket at both ends. Villagers nearby said they were detaining fish.
Buckle fish? There are fish in this rice field!
"Almost everyone in the stockade will put some fry in the rice fields where seedlings are raised or transplanted. The fish grown in the rice fields are delicious. " The villagers said that they would eat the grass in the rice fields, or small seedlings and rotten leaves when they were growing up. ...
While speaking, Brother Farmer caught a fish with a bamboo basket, which looked quite big. He held it up for us to take pictures, and his face was full of smiles.
Looking out from the country restaurant, the sunset glow falls on the terraced fields, glowing with warm light. The housekeeper is preparing dinner. I went to a neighbor's uncle's house across the street to sit and chat. He is chopping wood, but it doesn't look like firewood. "This is a spoon," he said. When he scooped water, I realized it was a wooden spoon.
I said it was too small to scoop water. He said with a smile, it is used to scoop rice.
"If you can make 20 finished products a day, it is not blank," he said. "Take them to Leishan county to sell. One can sell 20 yuan and the other can sell 10 yuan in the village. "
All the children have gone out to work, one in Guangzhou and the other in the county. "Being alone at home, having nothing to do, making some handmade wooden spoons is healthy and environmentally friendly for everyone."
Miao village is not short of traditional crafts, such as making benches and batik. It is said that many Miao women here do batik without even drafting. Beautiful butterfly patterns, bird patterns, fish patterns symbolizing many children and grandchildren, bronze drum patterns representing the sun's rays and worship, and labor maps reflecting ordinary life are all woven. These batiks reflect the history and life of Miao people and are one of the carriers of cultural inheritance here.
The staff of the village hut said that in the future, these traditional handicrafts in the village will be helped to go to the market and increase the income of the villagers. In other words, every penny you spend here is helping the society to help the poor.