Theme words for this guide: Gansu, northwest, provincial capital, Yellow River, multicultural
I have a soft spot for Lanzhou.
I arrive in Lanzhou at least three times a year, for fun, even to eat a meal of "Hand Grabbing" from Old Ma's house; or even to stand on the top of the White Pagoda Mountain one evening, quietly watching the Yellow River pass through the city from Lanzhou at my feet, and watching the sun set slowly over the Wuquan Mountain, spilling the golden afterglow and the Yellow River into the sky. The golden afterglow and the Yellow River merge into one; even for a Lanzhou city to come.
The first time I met Lanzhou.
August 1996, is the unit of the new employees reported to the month, there is a Lanzhou Jiaotong University graduates of the university is Lanzhou's "indigenous" students, reported to the day, so I was very surprised that the height of 1.8 meters young man is actually operating in a mouthful of very standard Mandarin, which is the initial first impression of Lanzhou.
In September 2003, I officially entered the city of Lanzhou.
Participating in the semi-annual professional meeting of the Lanzhou Railway Bureau for the Bao Lan Railway project, this is the first time I took advantage of my work to set foot in Lanzhou. The straight line distance from Jinan to Lanzhou is 1300KM, and after more than 2 hours of air travel, the flight landed safely in Gansu and went straight to Zhongchuan Airport. The most impressive thing is that the airport is away from the city of Lanzhou that is called " far " that, and then see the Internet, someone spit release information, said Lanzhou's Zhongchuan Airport is the furthest distance between the airport and the city of China distance 69KM, which is a bit exaggerated, in fact, to say that the airport and the city of Zhongchuan Airport is not the furthest distance from the city, it is a bit of exaggeration. Distance from the farthest Zhongchuan Airport is not the first in China, Chamdo Bunda Airport is 136 kilometers from the town of Chamdo, is the farthest civil airport from the center of the city in China.
Lanzhou city gave me the first texture impression, is a city like a large stage play, three-dimensional and picture sense of special infectious. Lanzhou city appearance is two mountains sandwiched between a ditch, east and west sitting to the city vein is very clear, Lanzhou West Station to Lanzhou Donggang Town is 17KM. the city north and south are bare mountains, in recent years the vegetation is better, far from being able to see the mountains have green vegetation, and the ditch in the middle of this city is the center of the city of Lanzhou area, there is a width of 200-400 meters wide Yellow River flows through the city of Lanzhou in the past through the city of many cities in China. After traveling through many cities in China, in addition to the mountainous city of Chongqing, which gives you a three-dimensional and intricate feeling, the Lanzhou cityscape also comes with a picture impact.
The city of Lanzhou comes with a mysterious veil, not only is the Silk Road fortress road, but also because of her remote, even far away and inaccessible, far away, far away, far away, far away, free and easy, but also because she is the capital city of northwestern China, the location of the map of China is the center of the hinterland, so we are Lanzhou, full of curiosity and longing.
West to Lanzhou many times, a family of words to summarize the impression of Lanzhou has five prominent:
First, the city is full of gold armor of the Yellow River culture penetration, has penetrated the entire city.
When it comes to Lanzhou, the Yellow River is the only city in China that has taken the Yellow River into its embrace. This point for the city construction, Lanzhou city construction has its own big strokes, is quite remarkable, in the lower reaches of the Yellow River year after year decisive flooding in the background, the Yellow River is the only flow through the region of Lanzhou, is so gentle, the west corridor of the West Liang, Dalianang and other segments of the culture, but also drove the late Lanzhou cultural touch and development of the source of inspiration. If the pure Yellow River culture, in fact, does not belong to the city of Lanzhou, accurately said the city of Lanzhou will be the Yellow River culture to carry forward and inheritance of the more pure and more thorough.
Second, the coordinates of the Northwest, from the capital of 1400KM, full of the city surprisingly floated Beijing Lan flavor of the Mandarin.
Many friends came to Lanzhou, after feeling very surprised, the western city, even many people are operating a mouthful of Jinglan flavor of Mandarin, but Lanzhou and Beijing are separated by 1400 kilometers, a word of the ordinary people to bring people closer to each other, let me think of an ode to the deeper meaning of the heart towards Beijing.
What truth is reflected behind the Mandarin? Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Sichuan, Minnan dialect have their own flavor and characteristics, outsiders are difficult to understand, it seems that the people there do not worry about outsiders do not understand their own hometown language, while Lanzhou is worried about their own Northwest with a strong nasal tone, outsiders do not understand, so, full of mouth manipulation of Beijing Lan flavor of the Mandarin language, but also shows that Lanzhou people are very much in the accidental coming culture and popular things.
Essentially, Lanzhou is a city of immigrants, so the history of the normal founding of the city is not long, not to mention the historical and cultural city. Especially during the war period and the founding of New China to the reopening of this line of time, it can be said that the convergence of people from different parts of the country. Although Lanzhou also has a local dialect, but after all, the local population is limited, and it is naturally more convenient to use Putonghua to communicate. In recent years, the population of Lanzhou has been supplemented by people from different parts of Gansu, and the dialects of different parts of Gansu are very different, so it's easier to communicate in Mandarin.
In addition, after 2000, the promotion of Putonghua activities, some people deliberately do not teach their children to speak Lanzhou dialect, the children also partly think that the Lanzhou dialect is too earthy, and are not willing to take the initiative to learn, and naturally, slowly speak Lanzhou dialect will be less and less. I personally do not quite recognize the promotion of Putonghua to completely abandon the dialect of this approach, and Gansu region "Gan Pu" accent is very heavy, and finally a new generation of young people not only will not say their own accent, even the standard sound of Putonghua are a mess, as for the right and wrong no longer to be entangled. I feel that there is no dialect of the city more or less let a person feel a touch of melancholy, such as Gansu Baiyin, Jiayuguan this kind of completely immigrant cities. It seems to be more intimate with some of its own dialects.
In fact, it is not so the subject, for example, you can not say that the Northeast people speak sounds like a strange Mandarin so that the Northeast does not have a dialect it, this is a reason, when we go to the northwestern region of the motherland to sneak around will find Gansu, Ningxia, Xinjiang, Qinghai, these places in general, people speak Mandarin will always be with a similar accent, is because of this piece of land are part of the "Sino-Tibetan language family - Chinese language family - Chinese official language" , but you listen carefully and will find each place will have a subtle difference, and Lanzhou belongs to the "Lan Yin official language", which is what we call the "The first is that it is not a good idea to use the same language as you would use in your own home, but it is a good idea to use the same language as you would use in your own home. strong> The real old generation of people say the native old Lanzhou words most of the words young people do not understand (the old movie Dragon Inn in the chopping meat of the little fellow said pure Lanzhou words, but most of the young people in Lanzhou do not understand), now the young people will only say the Jinglan accent, but there are also different in each area, for example, Lanzhou city area people with Lanzhou words say For example, people in Lanzhou City say in Lanzhou dialect the word "Gaolan", which is pronounced as gao (three tones) lan (four tones), while people in the Gaolan County area will pronounce it as gao (one tone) lan (four tones), and there are many other nouns: Shasha (beautiful woman), Fofo (spoon), Yue's (key), Wusuo (garbage), Pieces of Ganchuan (chatting) and other terms,. There are also a lot of words that can't be spelled out in pinyin (we can all find out what words we can't spell out in pinyin in our hometowns) , and you have to know that in the pre-Qin period, the official language of the whole country was Shaanxi, and the whole country tasted like a meat loaf, and the only Han language that existed in the northwest of China was the "Lanyin" language, which was spoken by all the Han Chinese in Shaanxi.
In the early Qin period, the official language of the country was Shaanxi, and the whole country tasted like a meat loaf, but after Shaanxi, the only Han language to be found in the northwest was "Lanyin official language", which is only the language of the ethnic minorities outside of the Han Chinese who speak Lanyin official language (which belongs to the Guanwai region).
Three, out of the cab is difficult to hit, the deeper reason is surprising.
Now, in Lanzhou mentioned taxi difficult, almost everyone will agree that "is indeed a difficult thing." Standing in the street, all kinds of cabs from your eyes sped past. But when you raise your hand to take a taxi, you realize that none of the cars passing in front of you are empty. It's as if the problem of getting a taxi on weekends and during rush hour has now lost its time boundary, and it's become very difficult to get a taxi almost anytime.
People in Lanzhou told, every time Every city is very difficult to take a taxi, and Lanzhou is particularly prominent. Mr. Ren, who lives in Donggang, to Zhongshanqiao to take a group of friends from abroad to play, the time is scheduled to meet at 5:00 p.m. in the evening at the Railway Bridge, Mr. Ren took leave forty minutes in advance to take a taxi to the Railway Bridge, the results of the road to walk an hour's journey, half an hour late. Analyze the reason is that the East Side to the West Side is exactly the subway construction stage, the road is narrow and many cars, and catch the rush hour. Let a group of friends in the field eye in the bridge waiting for nearly 40 minutes.
Lanzhou people like to go out and take a taxi, not only dashing is derived from the ability to save time, which also has to do with the concept of consumption of Lanzhou people, I remember a friend of Harbin teased the Northeastern people, their families have 100,000 yuan in savings, he can dare to buy 200,000 cars, not afraid of loans. I don't know if Lanzhou people have such a consumer concept, money or not, but the face (Beijing accent).
Some transportation experts have analyzed the deep-seated reasons why Lanzhou taxi is difficult: 3 reasons why it is difficult to get a taxi.
First, Lanzhou is a comprehensive and inclusive as well as more foreigners in the city, the passenger demand continues to increase is one of the main reasons why it is difficult to take a taxi.
According to relevant data, Lanzhou City, the total number of cabs is now maintained at more than 6,000, and in recent years people with the quality of life continues to improve, the number of people to take a taxi is also increasing. Especially this year, gasoline prices, tail number restrictions and other reasons make the number of private car trips than the number of people, but these people instead of shunting the influx of taxi flow, so the number of people taking a taxi increased significantly.
Second, urban traffic congestion has made cab delivery less efficient and cab operation less fast.
As mentioned above in the article, cab drivers are in a hurry when they can't deliver their customers because of traffic jams. If a day shift driver operates 10 hours a day, and each hour is counted as an average 8-minute traffic jam, there will be 80 minutes of congestion in 10 hours, so a day shift driver's time for delivering guests will be reduced by 1 hour and 20 minutes, which is enough time for a driver to run a round-trip from the West Station to the East Post without any traffic jam. And if there is a serious traffic jam again, then the driver's transportation time is reduced by more than just that much.
Third, the actual capacity of the cab has a discount
Although Lanzhou's cabs are now soaring to 9,000, there is a period of time when Lanzhou's restrictions make it possible to travel with only 4,000 cabs running in the main city. And we all know, now Lanzhou City, cabs are running on natural gas, cab cylinder gas storage capacity of more than 15 liters, gas can travel about 120 kilometers. But now there are too many vehicles to refill the gas, every day to refill the gas queue, which inadvertently reduces the cab's operating time. Today's Lanzhou city cab cab is not very convenient, the local people know best.
Four, said Lanzhou City does not have its own culture, Lanzhou people laughed, beef noodles, readers magazine, the Yellow River is not culture? In fact, Lanzhou city belongs to the immigrant city so mobility is also very strong, resulting in Lanzhou does not have its own core culture, but cultural diversity
Lanzhou is a city of immigrants, the early liberation, just ten years time the population increased by more than 600,000 people, in addition to the natural growth of those who came from the sky and the sea, but also played a decisive role.
Gansu history, the earliest immigrants when the Shang and Zhou Dynasties from the east to migrate to the Weishui River Valley Qin people, the Qin Dynasty to repel the Huns, set up counties along the Yellow River to defend, which has Yuzhong County. From then on, one after another immigrants in the Longyuan roots.
In 121 BC, Huo Zaiwei set up a garrison in Lanzhou West, paving the way for the Han Empire to open up four counties in the west of the river. This Lingju Sei in Lanzhou West is in Xigu, Lanzhou today. It is recorded in the history books as "Jincheng (present-day Lanzhou), Henan and Nanshan (i.e., Qilian Mountains) to Yanze (i.e., Lopu Po), empty of Xiongnu." This is the first time the name Jincheng appears in Chinese history.
In 120 B.C., when the Guandong flooded, the Han Dynasty ordered the migration of more than 700,000 poor people from the Guandong to enrich Longxi, Beidi, Xihe, Shangxian and other places. The Han book - food and goods records: the Han dynasty also ordered in the "Shangxian, Shofang, West River open field officials, repulsive plugging pawns 600,000 people in the field of the garrison." This is Lanzhou (Jincheng) appeared in the history of the Han Dynasty, the first time to this area of immigration.
In the spring of 61 BC, due to the geological fertility of the present-day Zhangye area, by the Qiang constantly disturbed the border, Emperor Xuan of the Han Dynasty decided to send troops to pacify the Qiang, the veteran Zhao Chongguo to take on this important task until 60 BC, the Qiang army was eliminated by the Han army to less than 10,000 people, surrendered to the Han Dynasty of the Qiang people has also reached more than 30,000 people. Therefore, Emperor Xuan of Han set up a vassal state in Jincheng to settle the surrendered Qiangs. Ban Gu's "The Book of Han" (汉书-卷八-宣帝纪第八) reads: "In the fifth month of the summer, the Western Qiang surrendered, and the heads of their chiefs, Yang Yu (杨玉), and Sheik Fei (酋非), were beheaded. He set up the Jincheng Subordinate State to settle the surrendered Qiang." This is one of the foreign populations.
Hongwu five years, the Ming dynasty, the beginning of the great migration, there are mobilizing the general public to migrate; there are crimes and then enlisted; there are following the army mobilization. For Lanzhou, there is also a kind of officials, guards, servants, etc., with King Su Wang on the tombs, the number of 50,000 people. The Ming dynasty at that time the purpose of the migration of the population is the actual border, that is, to increase the local population density.
There is a document that says: "The beginning of the Ming, Lan people from the south of the Jiangnan migrants to the people of ten in eight or nine ......" Ming Hongwu first year, how many people from the south of the Jiangnan migrated to the northwest, there is no way to count. But there is no doubt that the road of migration is very difficult and long.
For thousands of years, countless foreign populations have long been integrated into the Longyuan land, no matter where they come from, the body has long been no breath of the time, replaced by the Northwest mountains and water nurtured by the bold atmosphere. Is not a foreign migrant population, afraid that only the genealogy of their own family records, but that has nothing to do with, as long as the land in China, where to go is a family.
And now Lanzhou you if you spray Lanzhou city no culture, Lanzhou absolutely do not agree, because they feel that there is the Yellow River culture, there is beef noodle food culture all over the country, there is a nationally acclaimed readers magazine, these are not culture? These are not traditional culture, just floating in the Yellow River water bubble, maybe one day also disappeared, only the water of the Yellow River is true.
Fifth, a city floating on the surface of the Yellow River, as distinct as the population flow. Does the Yellow River culture belong only to the city of Lanzhou?
The Yellow River, flowing from west to east through nine provinces (autonomous regions) of Qinghai, Sichuan, Gansu, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia, Shaanxi, Shanxi, Henan and Shandong respectively, finally flows into the Bohai Sea.
She rushed down from the "roof of the world" of the Tibetan Plateau, through the deep Loess Plateau, with its own vitality, to create an endless nine curves of the Yellow River spectacular scene. On both sides of this great river, which flows endlessly, the primitive culture of our great motherland was nurtured, which in turn gave rise to a brilliant and colorful human civilization. I now think back, when it is such a spiritual feeling, prompted me although trapped in the enemy's prison, but contains a natural yearning for the Loess Plateau is rising national hope.
Lanzhou has been walking on the road of promoting and vast Yellow River culture, and the famous sculpture of the Yellow River mother makes Lanzhou Yellow River culture even more floating in the world. Every city where the Yellow River flows through is playing the card of Yellow River culture. If we simply say that the Yellow River culture is only attributed to Lanzhou, it is obviously inappropriate.
And the relationship between Lanzhou and the Yellow River, the only Lanzhou is the Yellow River through the city. Become a city and natural landscape, unparalleled.
Six, Lanzhou is very concerned about the eyes of others to judge, not belong to the historical and cultural city is also a reason
Lanzhou, from the founding of the country to the reform and opening up of the thirty years, is a special care about the eyes of others in the city. Always worried about being backward, always worried about their green hills not green water. You rushed from the airport to the city of Lanzhou, all the way to the drought and barren, you will feel the city of Lanzhou for the rejection of the drought, for the desire of the green mountains. Good wishes always come true, now not only is the city of Lanzhou vegetation green, after the sand control improved around Lanzhou, is also a great improvement.
There are deeper reasons why Lanzhou is not a historical or cultural city.
Looking back through history, Lanzhou was not an important city until the middle of the Qing Dynasty, and was considered a marginal area of the Central Plains dynasty, with less cultural precipitation. After the founding of the country, especially in the Cultural Revolution, the original cultural relics and monuments were destroyed on a large scale, making it impossible to get anything decent to apply for the historical and cultural city. Lanzhou's cultural heritage is insufficient. The most important thing is that the city of Lanzhou was established later on by opening up the land, and it was not a city from ancient times. In the past it did not belong to the category of cities.
Seven, Lanzhou future needs to be reinvented again
Lanzhou as the coordinates of the center, in accordance with the national implementation of the medium- and long-term railroad network planning, Lanzhou-Yuzhou Railway, Lanzhou-Chengdu Railway, Lanzhou-New Zealand Second Line, Tianping Railway, Lanzhou-Hopping Railway, Baolan Passenger Dedicated Line, Lan Hui to add the second line of railroads, such as the completion of the construction of railroads, will be formed in Lanzhou as the coordinates of the efficient and unobstructed, The railroad network will be formed with Lanzhou as the coordinates, efficient and smooth, with passenger and cargo corridors as the main skeleton.
We look forward to the future of Lanzhou in addition to the historical city, the Silk Road town, the Yellow River Basin, the only Yellow River through the city of the provincial capital of the title of the special economic location in the East and West, even the South and the North of the special economic location advantages, in the western development strategy has a pivotal and irreplaceable role in the ......
May Lanzhou's The people of Lanzhou welcome you!