Zhenyuan is also an ancient town. I only heard about it from MissGu before I came to Guizhou, and I just glanced at its geographical location on the map before I left. Other than that, I know nothing. Maybe it's because I'm used to seeing the ancient town in the south of the Yangtze River, so I naturally have no super enthusiasm for it. I just regard it as a walking post, that's all.
In this way, with a cool mood, the afternoon after the train bumped all the way, we were safely taken to this ancient town in southeastern Guizhou. Just like writing an essay, I want to praise it first or set up a stage. When I got off the train, to be precise, on the way from the train to the hotel, I fell in love with this quaint town surrounded by green mountains and green waters. With these two days of walking, I pushed this love to the extreme, which is sincere and heartfelt. It really has nothing to do with the foreshadowing at the beginning. If it really has something to do with my initial bedding, it is purely coincidental. Ha ha.
I remember a beautiful song called "Because of one person, I fall in love with a city", which is romantic and beautiful. But there is no one I love in Zhenyuan town, and I still like her very much. It can be seen that not everything in the world has a reason. Sometimes like, or love, is a beautiful feeling, which can comfort the soul, or connect with the soul. Very simple and pure.
Zhenyuan ancient city, like Jiangnan ancient town, was built and lived by the river, and a clear water named Wuyang River passed through the city, giving the town a beautiful spirit. The difference is that the green hills on both sides of Wuyang River are tall and handsome, and the mountains are connected, full of green. Therefore, Zhenyuan ancient city is also built and lived by the mountain. Because there are mountains and waters, and mountains and rivers depend on each other, Zhenyuan Town not only has the beautiful and restrained spirit of Jiangnan ancient town, but also has the calm, bold and beautiful charm of inland ancient city.
The main streets of the ancient city are distributed between the ancient houses along the banks of the river and beside the mountains and waters. That's it. It's nothing complicated. There are no traffic lights to direct traffic. Streets paved with bluestones, bustling pedestrians and vehicles, no struggle, no resentment. Car dealers rely on horns, modesty, and people rely on eyes, ears and consciousness. There is nothing wrong with harmony. This made me used to walking with lights on weekdays, which was both surprising and uncomfortable.
Zhenyuan is simple.
Zhenyuan is subtle.
In daily life, "crooked ways" is a derogatory term, but if homophonic words are changed to "crooked ways", it is more appropriate to summarize the streets, houses and Gu Xiang of Zhenyuan ancient city. Because the Wuyang River meanders through the city in an S-shape, the ancient city built by the river and the mountains, the streets and lanes of Gu Xiang will naturally drift with the tide, no longer paying attention to what faces south, what east-west direction and what north-south direction. Then you will find the house at the foot of the mountain, the door is open, and naturally, the alley twists and turns to connect the residents together. But no matter how you turn, all the alleys are connected, and their openings always face the main street. Therefore, even if I am a person who has no sense of direction, I can walk freely in it and walk boldly at will, as long as I come out and walk in the direction of the river. Unlike Wuzhen and Maze, I often go back or walk a lot before I find myself still spinning around. A confused person like me needs a wise man to swim completely.
Here, Zhenyuan is simple, straightforward and straightforward; The moral of Zhenyuan is that despite the twists and turns, simple people feel their heads and find the exit. In short, whether it is simple or implicit, it is transparent and not deliberately hidden. A job is to feel reliable and have a stable sense of security. This is very similar to my straightforward personality, and it is no wonder that I have the same interests. Ha ha!
Gu Xiang in Zhenyuan is not wide, paved with bluestones, and the social strata in Taiwan Province are winding. At first glance, there is always a way, and there is no sense of oppression. There are strings of red lanterns hanging on both sides, and occasionally climbing flowers and plants are hung on the wall, which looks antique and beaming. Walking here, you will never feel the sadness and hesitation in the rainy lane. What haunts your mind is the silence and remoteness leading to ancient times, or the indifference and tranquility of time and space, a kind of serenity without anger, sadness and annoyance, that is, the years of sitting on the bluestone steps and staying all your life are quiet and beautiful.
On both sides of the driveway street are characteristic houses built according to the mountain situation. High-walled courtyard, quite some jstars courtyard feeling. Houses are mostly brick and wood structures with Huizhou architectural style. The high wall is made of blue bricks, and the wells in the middle and side of the herringbone roof are built with powder walls more than one meter high. Corners, corners, and even the corners of the gatehouse are tilted upward, like birds spreading their wings and flying, giving people a heroic spirit of breaking free from fetters and soaring into the sky.
There are hollowed-out walls and doors and windows with hollowed-out carvings, but compared with the exquisite craftsmanship of hollowed-out carvings in Jiangnan water towns, this is simply a treasure and much simpler. Most quadrangles are quadrangles or three-way courtyards, without carved moon doors or cloisters. Among them, an open courtyard is simple and bright. The lintel frame of the gatehouse is horizontal and vertical, with red couplets on it, and there is a majestic door god on the door panel. "The smell of wine is not afraid of the deep alley." Many quadrangles follow suit, not only live by themselves, but also meet the needs of tourists, opening inns, wineries, restaurants, teahouses and various small shops. Business is good and full of life.
Fireworks are famous in the world, which is the unique charm of Zhenyuan ancient city and also brings me deep thinking. The integration of history and modern life makes this remoteness and lifeline continue to exist, makes it live in the present, makes it full of vitality and vitality, and makes people approach it, understand it and integrate into it. If we just freeze it at a certain node in the past, seal it in the memory of the past, and treat it as history and memory for future generations to visit and pay homage to, then it will be divorced from life and become just a cold prop, decoration and dead body. Ancient architecture, or history, is not only the precipitation of the past years, but also the extension of the future time. Standing at the present node, looking back, the long river of history comes from afar. "Who has seen the moon by the river?" When did Jiang Yue take the photo at the beginning of the year? " ; Looking around, the long river of history has gone. "I don't know who Jiang Yue is waiting for, but I see the Yangtze River delivering water. "The past, present and future are an endless river, and it is the ordinary life of ordinary people for thousands of years that makes it a landscape.
In the early morning, the distant mountains in Daihei, the jade belt-like Wuyang River, the fishing boats on the river and the old houses with forests on both sides of the river bank are all caged in soft water mist, dreamy and ethereal. If you incarnate as a bird and look down from the air, you can imagine that the whole Zhenyuan ancient city is like a bride to be married, wearing a white gauze, smiling back, charming and moving, and wanting to say goodbye.
The flashing lights, the cruise ships at night, the open-air food stalls, the endless stream of tourists, the shouting of wine girls, the dazzling skills of the little brother who makes butterfly cakes … miscellaneous but not annoying, miscellaneous but not chaotic. There is no shouting from the loudspeakers selling goods, and there is no square dance by the aunts who are popular in China and even the world. Old people sit on benches on the steps of Jiangwharf, smoking, playing chess, chatting and enjoying the cool. Children are playing games while running and jumping, watching water, watching lights and watching movies ... making noise but not making noise. Everything is just right.
Zhenyuan ancient city at night is lively and quiet.
On the river bank, there are many bars, cafes and inns, such as Slow Time, One-meter Sunshine, Zhenyuan Building and Miss Dong Bar. The lights and names are full of creativity. The lights are on or off, and the music is slow or urgent.
Wandering in the streets of the ancient city, blowing a cool breeze, watching the flashing lights and passing people. Or spend five dollars to buy a small bowl of sweet bean jelly and eat it while shopping. Tired, go to the nearest riverside pier and sit down, watching the sparkling lights and shadows.
You can also walk along the river, have a cup of coffee and a glass of wine, and have a little petty bourgeoisie; You can also barbecue with your friends at the midnight snack stand and drink in the dazzling smoke. ...
A cup of coffee, a glass of wine, a journey, a story. Sorrow and joy are the normal state of life.
What has settled down is that the years are quiet.
(In the hearts of a thousand readers, there are a thousand Hamlets. What you see, hear, think and feel is personal. )