Edit this section of the Xia-Shang and Western Zhou
No physical evidence of the Xia-Shang and Western Zhou clothing, according to the tomb of Houjiazhuang in Anyang and the tomb of the Women's good jade, stone portraits, it can be seen that the Shang Dynasty aristocrats wore a cross-necked garment, the waist bundled with a belt of the gentry, and the lower body with a garment, the belly in front of the tie city (cover the knees). There is even less portrait material left over from the Western Zhou Dynasty. From the point of view of the unearthed jade and bronze humanoid carriages in Luoyang, the clothes, garments, belts, and city were still the basic components of the aristocratic male clothing. Clothing with positive colors, clothing with inter-colored, and pay special attention to the city before the clothing. Western Zhou bronze inscriptions record the king of Zhou in the ceremony awarded clothing, there are often "Zhu city, onion yellow" ("Mao Gong Ding") "city, yellow" ("inquiry Gui") and other things. City, yellow that is, in ancient documents, Heng, refers to the shelter knee, Heng refers to the whole set of jewelry, including the group of the Department of jade and jade pieces. Henan Xinyang Changtaiguan and Hubei Jiangling Ji Nancheng Warring States Tomb of the figurines, are in front of the abdomen tie jade pendant. Nobles in the jade pendant lined with a special color, thus attracting attention to represent the status of a symbol.
The establishment of the Western Zhou, the social productive forces greatly developed and improved, the material is obviously rich, the social order is also towards the rationalization, and there are rules and regulations. Dress form also due to the existence of the hierarchy of superiority and inferiority, the need for etiquette and further standardization, was included in the scope of the "rule of etiquette", inferiority and superiority, respectively.
This time the special boundaries of the dress level signs began to be clear, the variety of categories also increased accordingly, such as the court room to worship heaven and earth, to honor the gods and ghosts when the special sacrificial dress, the dynasty ceremony when there will be the court dress, military in the special from the military service, the wedding ceremony dedicated to the wedding ceremony, mourning and funeral service. Clothing is still used in the upper garment Xuan lower garment yellow, but in the official dress increased in the front lapel of the garment, big belt (big belt is made of silk or woof, four inches wide), jade (jade as raw material, to the ribbon attached to the waist of the pendant). In addition, the color of the clothes also began to have a hierarchical difference. In addition to the unique style of wide clothes and long belts, the Western Zhou dress style also absorbed the northern Xianbei ethnic group (now the Xibo ethnic group) to the belt hook waist dress color (in the joints of the ribbon, with gold, silver, copper or iron and other metals made of fine hooks or buckles).
Edit Spring and Autumn and Warring States
This was the time when the deep garment and the huqi began to be popularized. The deep garment was called
Spring, Autumn, and Warring States Clothing
Deep Garment because it attached together garments that used to be disconnected at the top and bottom. Instead of opening slits at the hem, the lapel was extended to cover the back of the garment, which was called "overlapping and hooking the edge". Deep clothes in the Warring States period is quite popular, the Zhou royal family and Zhao, Zhongshan, Qin, Qi and other countries in the relics, have been found wearing deep clothing figures. The deep clothes of the wooden figurines unearthed from Chu tombs show the detailed structure more clearly. Short-sleeved clothes are a feature of the Chu costume. Jiangling Mashan No. 1 Chu Tomb had a short-sleeved "clothes", clothes that is, according to the explanation of the "Shuo Wen", this is a kind of short clothes. According to the Zenghouyi bells of the bells of the gold people's clothing, should be short-sleeved clothes.
Hu clothing mainly refers to the clothes and pants type of clothing, especially with pants as a characteristic, is the clothing of the grassland peoples in northern China. For the convenience of horseback riding, they wore narrower tops, long pants and boots. According to the Historical Records of China - Zhao Shijia (史记-赵世家), this type of clothing was first used by King Wuling of Zhao to equip the Zhao army. The bronze warrior statue from Watersplit Mountain in Changzhi, Shanxi Province, wearing a rectangular-necked straight-breasted blouse, long pants, a tapestry at the waist and a sword, is the very image of a Zhao warrior who adopted the hu uniform.
"The system of Hu clothing, the crown is Huiwen, the belt is Beibei belt, the boots, the pants are on the pleats under the pants ....... Since the Warring States Zhao Wuling Wang, Hu clothing riding, pants pleats passed to China, all generations are thought to be military service, or with its crown, or with its shoes, or with its clothes and belt, or all three, Jin Dynasty folk, began to occasionally use it. North and South Dynasties of the era, the North Dynasty to the Hu suit as a regular dress, the South Department of the Han, still for the military service, than the Sui and Tang dynasties, the emperor as a hunting service, or up and down the public service, the folk are the most prevalent for the flow of clothing style. Retrospectively, from the transmission to the flourishing, from the military to the civil service, a long history, changes in complexity, Wang (Guowei)'s "hu service test" in the most detailed, not to be redundant. Only the Tang Dynasty Hu clothing, why the special flourishing, no one has been studying, Wang's test, also did not mention. In my humble opinion, no more than the following three reasons: (1> Tang Dynasty Hu people, living in the interior, a large number; (2) the aristocracy, the waste of ancient seat sitting, and for the Hu people sitting; (3) courtiers and attendants, abandoned the car and still riding horses.
Hu clothing, there is the so-called half-armed. Anciently known as the half-arm, now said the horse coat. The word "Shuowen" without the word "coat," the jade chapter
Spring and Autumn and Warring States garments
Also no, fear that the word Gua, coat Gua are from the Gui sound, commonly known as the coat, but can not be used as a "hanging" or "hanging". Sleeveless or half-armed clothes, all for the hu clothing, "sin only record - crown clothing Zhi" cloud: "the dynastic satchel folds, military service, short sleeves, or sleeveless and interrupted clothing, under the horizontal fold, and under the vertical fold. If the sleeve is long, it is trailing sprinkle, or waist in the interruption, to a line of road across the, called Cheng Zi clothes, wireless road, called the road robe."
Like this trouser folds, and become the general name of Hu clothing. All sleeveless, short-sleeved, long-sleeved clothes, and the waist of the middle of a line across the cut or without a line across the cut of the robe, can be called trouser folds, and therefore the half-arm of today's discussion, which is a hu clothing, there is no question. As for its form, Song Zeng San-yi "with the words of the record" "raccoon sleeve" article of the most detailed:
"In recent years the clothing system, there is a kind of such as spinning jacket, the length of the waist, the two sleeves only cover the elbow to the thickest of the silk for the, still wrapped in a folder, or which use sheep, with the edge of the purple soap, the name of the raccoon sleeve, heard of the beginning of the Royal Court Groomers, short front and back of the lapel, the short front and back of the lapel, the short front and back of the lapel, the short front and back of the lapel, the short front and back of the lapel. People, short front and back lapel, sitting in the saddle may not take off, with short sleeves to facilitate the control of the ear." Longer than the waist, two sleeves only cover the elbow, edge with purple soap cloth, with a jacket, there are also sheep clothes, apparently for the half-arm system. With its short front and back lapels, sitting on the saddle may wish to take off, it can also be called the waistcoat, waistcoat that is the lapel clothes. The system of the Ming and Qing dynasties is the same. "Ri Zhi Lu" Volume 28 "lapel coat" so-called: "Taizu real record of Hongwu twenty-six years in March, forbidden, government and civilian foot soldiers, etc., clothing lapel coat, only riding horses are allowed to serve, so as to ride a horse so also." Is also." (From Huang Xianfan's "Ancient Book Interpretation Initial Exploration")
Editing the Qin and Han Dynasties
During the Qin and Han Dynasties, due to the unification of the country, the style of clothing also tended to be consistent. The Qin Dynasty was the first feudal unified state in Chinese history with a large area and many ethnic groups.
After becoming the first emperor, Qin Wangzheng immediately began to implement a series of measures to strengthen centralization, such as the unification of weights and measures, criminal laws and regulations, including the system of clothing. However, due to the short period of time that Qin Shi Huang was in power, the dress system was only the first of its kind and was not yet complete; only the color of the clothes was unified. Qin Shi Huang was y influenced by the doctrine of yin and yang and the five elements, and believed that when Qin overcame Zhou, it should be water overcame fire, because the Zhou Dynasty was "fire over gold, and the color was red", so Qin overcame Zhou by the virtue of water, and the color was revered as black. In this way, in the Qin Dynasty, black is the color of honor, clothing is also black as the color of fashion.
Qin dynasty armor battle dress we can see from the unearthed artifacts. In Shaanxi Lintong unearthed terracotta warriors with armor should be the most common style of armor in the Qin terracotta warriors, is an ordinary warrior's attire, this type of armor has the following characteristics: the chest of the armor are the upper piece of the pressure of the lower piece of the abdominal armor, are the lower piece of the pressure of the upper piece of the armor, in order to facilitate the activities. From the center line in the middle of the chest and abdomen, all the armor pieces are stacked from the middle to the sides, and the combination of the shoulder armor pieces is the same as that of the abdomen. The armor pieces around the shoulders, abdomen, and under the neck are all connected by an armor band, and all of them have armor spikes, the number of which varies from two or three or four, up to a maximum of six. The length of the armor is equal in front and back, and the hem is usually rounded.
The excavation of a large number of terracotta warriors in the Terracotta Warriors' Pit in the Mausoleum of Qin Shihuang provides a fuller example of Qin and Han warrior clothing.
Costumes of the Han Dynasty
They wore a half-length coat with a shallow train, but it was still the genus of the deep coat, and the lower body wore pants, with a hooked leather belt around the waist. This kind of attire was still widely popular in the Western Han Dynasty, and pants were gradually popularized to the whole society. The establishment of the crown system was realized in the Han Dynasty. In ancient times, the crown of the Chinese race was mainly subordinate to the ritual system, and all men performed the crown rite when they came of age. In the Han Dynasty, the crown was mainly subordinate to the dress system, and was a symbol of status, official position and even rank. People with low status could only wear the conical cap but not the crown. The crown was originally a hair cover added to the bun and did not cover the entire top of the head. The conical cap, on the other hand, is like a cap. Crown and conical cap originally unrelated to each other, to Wang Mang, it is said that because he was bald, so first wear the conical cap, the conical cap and then add the crown. Later, this method of wearing popularized, and thus appeared in the Eastern Han Dynasty on the portrait of the crown, also in the bottom of the pad with the conical cap. Crown and the conical cap can not be randomly matched, civil officials to wear the Jinxian crown with a roof-shaped meso-conical cap, military officials to wear a large crown with a flat top of the flat on the conical cap. Jinxian crown front towering, back tilted, the appearance of a slanting altar shape. Crown before the "beam", according to the number of beams to distinguish the identity of the wearer of the crown. The emperor wore the crown and the vassal king wore the far travel crown is also in the Jinxian crown on the basis of the increase in the decoration and become. The big crown of the martial arts function is also known as "Hui () Wen Guan", at first only with (thin linen) production of the drooping ears of the function, and later in the function under the pad conical cap, and further in the function of the lacquer, the shape of the lacquered sand cages, so it is also known as "the cage of the crown". Gansu wuwei grinding mouth sub 62 xinmang tomb had unearthed the cage crown. In addition, warriors also wore crowns. Law enforcement officials wear Xiezhi crown.
In the distinction between inferiority and superiority, although the beam on the crown of the Xianxian play a role, but the number of beams is more than three, the division of rank is more rough. So the Han Dynasty and the use of ribbon as a sign of rank, different levels of officials of the ribbon color, weave, density and length are not the same. At this time, the ribbon is tied to the official seal on the band, but it and the Western Zhou jade group of the real lineage.
Women's curved train in the Han Dynasty
Women in the Han Dynasty generally combed their hair back into a drooping bun, the name of the vertebrae bun. Often wearing deep clothes, women's deep clothes of the magnificent name of the clothes, its curved train not only in the lower body wrapped around a number of layers, and in its diagonal width adorned with triangular objects and long straps, that is, in the literature called with. Its shape can be seen in sichuan unearthed on the han dynasty portrait brick.
The Han Dynasty clothing has seven characteristics:
1. wear outerwear, because the collar is large and curved, wearing clothes must be exposed in the collar type;
2. wear clothes must be made of white fabrics;
3. sleeve width of one foot and two inches;
4. shirt sleeveless;
5. wear fur garments fur fur outward;
5. wearing fur garments fur outward;
6. 6. The belt is extremely elaborate, the hooks used to make a variety of beasts made of gold, such as mantis-shaped or pipa-shaped. The image is very vivid and interesting. General length in the belt hook from the shape, color and craft have reached an extremely high level, more than the Western Zhou and Warring States period, in the design and production are much more exquisite. Therefore, quite popular with men, wearers of many;
7. Men maintain the custom of wearing a knife, but the knife worn by the shape of no edge, and therefore lost its practical value, mainly to show grooming.
The Han Dynasty ritual dress extended "big system", in accordance with ancient rituals to wear a coronet with ribbons, wear jade. Emperors, ministers, vassals are used in the big, only in the texture of the tied jade beads or silk rope to distinguish. Empress Dowager, Empress Dowager, ministers and wives of the sacrificial service (visit the temple clothing), pro silkworm clothing, court dress and wedding clothes in the form of deep clothes system.
Laboring women in the Han Dynasty always wore a short jacket on top and a long skirt underneath, decorated with a long hanging belt around their knees. The regular dress of working men was a jacket on top and calf's pants underneath, with a cloth skirt over the outer garment; this attire was the same regardless of whether they were working slaves, serfs, merchants, or scholars.
Editing Wei and Jin
Wei-Jin costumes and clothing retained the basic form of the Han Dynasty, but in terms of stylistic features, but there are unique and prominent, which is closely related to the creative ideas of the art and crafts at that time, and its stylistic homogeneity is more obvious.
The sixth century A.D. Persian patterns were introduced to China through the Silk Road, and had a considerable impact on textiles, clothing and other decorations. This is reflected in the Dunhuang murals.
The Wei and Jin dynasties stipulate that the court dress with red, often take purple. White was the color of the common people's clothes. At this time, the clothing style is still mainly 襦, skirt, fur is informal clothes. Women's decorations are more elaborate, there are gold rings, silver about the finger and around the wrist of the jump off and so on. In texture in the palace and outside the palace is still very different.
The most common form of armor in the Wei and Jin dynasties is two crotch armor, long to the knee, above the waist is the chest and back of the armor with a small piece of armor braided, some with a large piece of armor, armor identity before and after the two pieces of the shoulder and both sides of the belt with a bundle. Chest and back with round protection. Because most of them are made of copper and iron and other metals, and polished to a very bright, rather like a mirror. When the armor was worn on the battlefield, it was called "Bright Light Armor" because it emitted dazzling "bright light" due to the sun's irradiation. This kind of armor style is a lot, and the complexity is different, some just in the crotch on the basis of the front and back of the two pieces of round protection, some are equipped with shoulder pads, knee pads, complex and heavy shoulder pads. Most of the body armor is long to the hips and is tied at the waist with a belt.
Editing the North and South Dynasties
The dress style of the South Dynasty was dominated by 襦襦裙, and women in particular wore skirts as orthodox, and those who did not wear skirts but exposed their pants were regarded as impolite. At that time, women's heads were wrapped in white spandex scarves (a kind of scarf with green ribbons, which legend has it that Zhu Geliang usually wore in the Three Kingdoms), and the sleeves were long and narrow and carved in wisps with floral motifs. The dancers wear long shirts with very long bands on their bodies and dandy scarves on their heads.
The North and South Dynasties also have "robe" and "shirt", shirt in the Jin Dynasty has been a must wear clothes. Fur" at this time is extremely valuable, to ermine fur for the most." "is a young man's favorite clothing, thin young people more favorite colored" ""襦", "襦", "帔", "cape", "鹤氅", these are the popular clothing at this time.
Southern Dynasties basically inherited the Wei and Jin, due to war and frequent changes in the country, reflected in the dress code has also changed. Jiangnan style shorter than the north, but then the popularity of wearing a small hat wearing a coat, sometimes a sleeve into two, a skirt cut into two skirts, some styles of large collar with a large band, some of the narrow sleeves, some skirt long trailing the ground, and some of the clothes long hidden feet. The court dress of the Southern Dynasties is still the basil coat. There were regulations on the materials used for the costumes. Officials below the third rank were not allowed to wear clothes made of mixed-color qi, and those below the sixth rank could only wear seven-color qi, and could not use raw silk. The artwork and clothing style of the Southern Dynasties, many of the excavated figurines, showing us a thin waist, round face type of women, face and expression is very beautiful, especially from the figurines from the South of Jiangnan more prominent features, which is the dress of the floor long skirt and wide cloak and belt are very coordinated.
North Dynasty dress, official formal occasions wearing vermilion-colored single garment, casual wear and military uniforms to the main. Wearing a red robe, wearing a gold belt, wearing a small-sleeved long robe with gold and jade belt. Civilian women wore jacket as their regular clothes, which was no different from the Southern Dynasties. In the North Dynasty, the most expensive dress material was damask brocade.
The scrolling grass pattern of the North and South Dynasties was developed on the basis of the cloud pattern of the Han Dynasty. Dunhuang made wells (individually suitable for patterns), triangular flowers (suitable for patterns) and striped flowers (two-sided continuous), flying skies, cloud patterns and other dynamic images are skillfully combined, both ancient, beautiful, but also subtle and soft. Woolen blankets, linen and silk were all prevalent products at that time.
Edit section of the Sui and Tang dynasties
In the North and South Dynasties, Hu and Han costumes interacted with each other and each into a system on the basis of the clothing system of the Tang Dynasty, appeared in the "legal clothing" and "regular clothes" parallel situation. As a big dress of the law is still the traditional crown, crown, clothes, clothing, clothing is improved on the basis of the Xianbei suit. In the Tang Dynasty, all men, from the emperor down to the servant, wore regular clothes in daily life, including the round-necked robe, turban, leather belt and boots. The turban is a long robe with a slit. The turban was evolved from the Xianbei cap, which was originally a turban, with two turban horns holding the hair bun forward when tied, and the remaining two turban horns tied at the back of the head, with the excess part hanging down naturally. The material of the turban was initially made of black fabric or Luo, so the corner of the turban was also soft, so it was called "soft-footed turban". Later on, copper and iron wires were used as bones in the corner of the towel to hold it up, making it a "hard-footed 幞头". Due to the shape of the hard foot and the different angles of the turban, there are also "sentence foot", "show foot", "towards the sky" and so on. The leather belt of the Tang Dynasty was initially equipped with a narrow strip of leather for tying things, so this belt is called the belt. Above and fixed with a number of square decorative plate, name. According to the different ranks of the officials, respectively, with jade, gold, rhinoceros, silver, Yu Shi, blue iron and other materials, so that the leather belt has also become a symbol of the distinction between the ranks. In addition, the Northern Zhou appeared in the "color clothes", in the Tang Dynasty has formed a system, and has become a major feature of the Chinese official clothing. Tang officials from the first to the ninth grade, the color of the dress to purple, scarlet, green, green as the difference.
Tang Clothing
Tang women's clothing mainly consists of skirts, shirts, cape. At this time, the shirt is often hidden in the skirt, so it appears to be a very long skirt. Cape, also known as cape, like a long and thin scarf, is the influence of Buddhism in Western Asia before the popularity of the Central Plains. The pre-Tang Dynasty women's clothing is also popular in the rolled-brimmed false hat, collar coat and other hu clothing, after the Anshi Rebellion, the wind gradually break.
The Tang Dynasty also popular women wore "Hu clothing". Hu clothing" is the clothing of the West. The form of the belt is also y influenced by the hu clothing. Before this, people's waist is decorated with gold, silver, copper and iron, this time the popular tie "mincing belt", with gold ornaments on the belt, and buckle with a short and small small belt to tie things with. This belt to take the most prevalent is in the Tang Dynasty, and then extended until the Northern Song Dynasty.
Tang clothing
After the Tang Dynasty, the influence of Hu clothing gradually weakened, the style of women's clothing is becoming wider and wider. By the middle and late Tang dynasties, this characteristic was more obvious, general women's clothing, sleeve width is often more than four feet. In the late Tang aristocratic dress, generally more important occasions to wear, wearing this dress, hairpin with gold and cui flower inlay, so also known as "inlay hairpin ceremonial clothing".
After Emperor Gaozong of the Tang Dynasty, the purple color for the three officials; light scarlet for the five officials, dark green for the six officials, light green for the seven officials, dark green for the eight officials, light green for the nine officials, yellow for the people outside the palace and the common people color.
Tang clothing also has a great influence on neighboring countries. For example, Japan and obedience to the color greatly absorbed the essence of the Tang costume, Korean clothes also inherited from the form of the strengths of the Tang costume. Tang jacket 襦skirt line soft long, very beautiful and comfortable, the material is mainly silk fabric, so its clothing to "soft" and "soft" known. Tang clothing itself more categories, good changes, from the shape to the decoration are boldly absorbed foreign dress characteristics, more to Central Asia, India, Iran, Persia and the north and the western region of the foreign dress as a reference to enrich the Tang dress culture, so that the Tang dress rich and colorful and magnificent, unique style strange and colorful, become a flower in the history of China's clothing, the world attention.
The Song Dynasty clothing largely inherited the Tang system. At this time, the turban lined with wooden bones, covered with lacquer yarn, the Song people called "turban hat",
Song clothing
Can be worn at will, and the beginning of the Tang Dynasty must be wrapped in a temporary tie of soft turban is very different. At this time, the emperor and high-ranking officials wore the exhibition foot turban, two feet to the sides of the flat outstretched, up to several feet. The low status of the official, servants, etc., then more wear footless turban.
Song women also wore skirts and shirts, the shirts were mostly lapel, covered in the skirt. Skirt is narrower, more fine folds, Fuzhou Huang tomb in addition to the skirt, there are crotch pants and crotch pants, visible in the Song Dynasty women in the skirt with pants. Started in the Five Dynasties when the foot binding, to the late Northern Song Dynasty has gradually popularized.
The Song official system basically inherited from the previous generation, so the official dress in the palace is also similar to the previous generation, divided into court dress, ceremonial dress, public service, military service, funeral service and fashionable dress. The court dress is red red dress, wearing white Luo quality in the single, outside the Department of Luo material with a large belt, and scarlet Luo material cover the knee, hanging brocade ribbons, jade, jade bracelet, under the white damask socks and black leather shoes. In addition to this court dress is a unified style, the official position of the high and low is to match the different to distinguish. Mainly in the presence or absence of Zen clothes (in the single) and brocade ribbon pattern on the level of change. Wear court dress must wear "Jinxian crown" (a lacquered beam crown cap), "Sable Cicada Crown" (also known as "cage scarf", is woven into the shape of rattan silk, the top of the lacquered crown cap), Xiezhi Crown (Jinxian Crown is a class).
The public service that is, the regular dress, also known as "from the provincial service", with a curved collar and large sleeves, waist belt as the main form, and narrow-sleeved style also. This type of clothing to distinguish between levels of color. For example, above the ninth-grade officials with green; above the seventh-grade officials with green; above the fifth-grade officials with vermilion; above the third-grade officials with purple. To the Song Yuanfeng years with a slight change in color, more than four with purple; more than six with scarlet; more than nine with green. According to the provisions of the time, taking purple and scarlet (vermilion) clothes, should be equipped with hanging gold and silver decorated fish bag, high and low positions to this thing to clearly distinguish.
Song clothing
The seasonal clothing is given to the official ministers according to the season of clothing. The emperor's generals down to the guards of the infantry, the varieties given and sent to the robe, jacket, shirt, robe belly, pants and so on. Most of the clothing given is woven with birds and beasts of the brocade pattern.
Song men in addition to the official clothes in the dynasty, the weekday uniforms are also very distinctive, often called "private clothes". Song officials and the civilian population of the Yanju form of clothing is not too different. Only in the use of color has more obvious regulations and restrictions.
Song time, there are several kinds of regular clothing:
"Robe" wide-sleeved wide body and narrow-sleeved narrow body of two types, there are officials is a brocade robe, unofficial is a white cloth robe.
"襦" and "襦" and "袄" are the necessary clothes for common people to wear in daily life.
"Short brown" is a kind of short and coarse cloth clothes for poor people.
"Shirt" is a man's long shirt with a horizontal hem.
"Shirt", following the ancient system of clothes on top and clothes underneath. It is the style of coronation, court dress or private house dress. In the Song Dynasty, there was also a way of wearing a shirt under a garment. Men also wore long tops with black trimmed collars and yellow clothes. They did not tie their belts when they lived at home, but did so when they were entertaining guests.
The "straight jacket" is a long, wide garment. It is called a "straightjacket" because there is no slit at the hem but there is a center seam at the back.
The "crane cloak," which is long and wide, is a kind of fur coat made by twisting the feathers of a crane and other birds into a pile, and it is very expensive.
In addition to the Song Dynasty men's clothing, there are cloth shirt and shirt. Inside called sweatshirt, there are cross collar and jaw collar form. The material is very exquisite, mostly with silk, yarn, Luo. The color is white, green, soap (black), apricot yellow, tea brown and so on. The material of the jacket is cloth, silk, Luo, brocade, silk and leather. The color of the jacket is green, red, date red, dark green, goose yellow and so on. The texture of the nobleman pants is also very delicate, more yarn, Luo, silk, silk, qi, damask, and have a plain pattern, jacquard, jacquard and other decorative motifs, the pants color to camel yellow, brown, brown as the main color.
Editing the Yuan Dynasty
The Yuan Dynasty was an era of national integration in Chinese history, and the costumes and clothing also fully reflect this feature. Yuan Taizu Genghis Khan since 1206 to establish the capital,
Yuan Dynasty clothing
After the extermination of the Western Xia and Jin, the ethnic composition is mainly dominated by the Mongols. Yuan dynasty due to the more acute ethnic conflicts, long in a state of war, textile industry, handicrafts have been greatly damaged. Palace service system for a long time to extend the Song style. Until l321 yuan yingzong period with reference to the ancient system, the development of the son of heaven and the officials of the upper and lower garment tight under the short, and in the waist plus crease accumulation, shoulder and back hanging large beads of the "quality of the Sun clothing" system, the han people say "one color clothes" or "quality of the Sun clothing". This is inherited from the Chinese and Mongolian national characteristics of the clothing system.
"Quality Sun clothing" to take a wide range of ministers can be worn in the Palace feast, musicians and guards also take. The difference between the upper and lower levels of this type of clothing is reflected in the texture of the different thickness. The son of heaven has fifteen levels (to quality grading level〉. Each level of raw materials used and the selection of color is completely uniform, clothes and hats consistent, the overall effect is very good. For example, if the clothes are gold brocade cut velvet, its cap is also inevitably gold brocade warm hat; if the clothes with white powdered leather, its cap must be platinum answer the son of warm hat. The summer clothes of the son of heaven also have fifteen grades, similar to the winter clothes. The winter clothes of the hundred officials have nine grades, and the summer clothes have fourteen grades, which are likewise distinguished by texture and color.
The "bishou" and "bijia" were also regular garments. Bishou" is a kind of lined with a slightly longer than the horse coat, the yuan dynasty monks called "loop ZiDaKu". Than armor" is easy to ride the clothes, no collar, no sleeves, short in front and long in the back, connected to the loop of the plainclothes. Yuan dynasty men's public service more with the Han custom, the outside of the regular clothes, cover a short-sleeved shirt, women also have this custom (called 襦裙半臂).
Yuan women's clothing divided into two styles of nobles and civilians. The nobles are mostly Mongolians, to leather leather cap for the national costume, ermine and sheepskin clothing is more widely available, the style is more broad robe, narrow cuffs, sleeve body wide fat, because the clothes are long trailing the ground, the noble lady out of the line of sight, there must be a slave girl to pull. This robe style in the shoulder do have a cloud shoulder, the so-called "gold embroidered cloud shoulder jade tassel", very beautiful. As a dress robe, fabric texture is very exquisite, using large red woven gold, brocade, velvet and very long felt fabric. At that time the most popular taking color to red, yellow, green, brown, rose, purple, gold and so on. Yuan Dynasty civilian women wore Han Chinese jacket, half-arms were also quite popular, the look of Han Chinese clothes often appeared in the palace dance accompanist, and the narrow-sleeved shirts and hat style of the Tang Dynasty were also preserved. In addition to the influence of neighboring Goryeo, the capital of the noble consorts also have the custom of imitating Goryeo women's clothing.
Civilian and military official uniforms of the Zhongjing Crown
The early Ming Dynasty demanded the restoration of clothing and crowns of the Tang Dynasty (shown on the left)
The early Ming Dynasty official uniforms
, the style of its French clothing and the Tang Dynasty is similar to the crowns of the crowns of the crowns of the crowns of the crowns of the crowns of the crowns of the crowns of the crowns of the crowns of Zhongjing. The Ming Dynasty's public service also used turban and round-collar robe, but this time the turban outside the black lacquer, short and broad feet, the name of the Wuzha hat, unofficial civilians are not allowed to take. In addition to the public service according to the rank of the service color, but also in the chest, back patch. Civilian filler decorated with birds, military officials decorated with beasts. In order to praise the merits of the officials, another special gift python robe, flying fish clothes, bullfighting clothes and other clothing. Python is a four-clawed dragon, flying fish with fins for the tail of the python, bullfighting in the python head with curved horns. Officials to the very top of the jade belt. So "python robe with jade belt" became the most distinguished attire of the bureaucrats at this time. The image of hanbok of the Ming Dynasty is quite far away, close to North Korea in Northeast Asia, as far as Japan, the Ryukyus and other vassal states. Hanbok is the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese people, from the Xuan Yuan Huangdi, and the end of the massacre of the Manchu Qing Dynasty. 56 ethnic groups, each ethnic group is equal, and the Han Chinese people should always be its national costume, that is, Hanbok.
Editing the Qing Dynasty
The Qing Dynasty was a regime dominated by Manchu rulers, and the customs of the Manchu Banner People influenced the Central Plains. For thousands of years, the traditional dress system of the Qing Dynasty
has been passed down from generation to generation due to the Manchu aristocracy's policies of "shaving the hair and changing the clothes", "ten from ten not from ten", and "keeping the head but not the hair", as well as the large number of Manchu people. "policy and a large number of massacres of Han Chinese people, resulting in the demise of China's traditional clothing. This massacre-style change is another perversion of the traditional Chinese dress system, is the history of the "hu clothing riding shot", "open Tang" after the third obvious mutation.
Thousands of years of wide robes and big sleeves (ritual clothes, very clothes), dashing rich, slender and soft, and the body swelling, short and narrow sleeves of the Manchu form of dress, forming a sharp contrast.
Manchu's flag dress, the outer contour of a rectangle, saddle-shaped collar to cover the cheeks of the face, clothes up and down not to take the waist, the shirt does not reveal the outside, offset right obeisance to the disk button for decoration, false sleeves two to three, horseshoe sleeves cover the hand, inlaid roll craft decoration, clothing plus clothing, increase the kangshi or waistcoat. To this day, it also has a certain influence on modern clothing. Especially with the development of the times, after processing curves highlighting the body exposed cheongsam, has a temporary existence value.
The cheongsam or short dress has several different forms such as pipa placket, big placket and pair placket. The matching skirt or pants are decorated with all-over prints, embroidery and tucks. The lapel, collar and sleeve edges were decorated with inlays, rolls and embroideries. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women dressed similarly to men, except that they wore ears in buns and unmarried women wore braids. Manchu women do not wrap their feet, do not wear skirts, clothes outside the shoulders and shirt level, long shirt within a small garment, equivalent to the Han women's bibs, clothes outside the clothes also known as "wulong".
The Ming and Qing dynasties Han women's clothing has not changed much, still wearing shirts, skirts, pants instead of skirts in the late Qing Dynasty. After the mid-Qing women's clothing layers of edging, known as the "roll set". Manchu women in the Qing dynasty with flag dress, they do not wrap their feet, do not bind the skirt, all wearing cheongsam, sometimes plus the shoulders. After the Qianlong, Manchu women's clothing appeared in the high bottom of the "flowerpot bottom" shoes. After the Xianfeng, and the emergence of tall "two head", "big pull wings" and other hairstyles, and become a prominent feature of the Manchu women's clothing.
The cheongsam and waistcoat
The waistcoat and cheongsam are the typical costumes of Manchu men and women in the Qing Dynasty.
Cheongsam
The waistcoat is a kind of short clothes worn outside the robe, the length of the clothes to the umbilicus, the sleeve only cover the elbow, mainly to facilitate the riding of horses, so it is known as the "waistcoat". It is different from the Han Chinese in the Song and Ming period of the coat, Manchu coat is not trim. When the Manchus first entered the customs, through massacres and forced the Han Chinese to wear their coats. Kangxi Yongzheng years, due to the policy of slavery, only began to popularize in society, and developed into a single, folder, yarn, leather, cotton and other garments, became men's civilian clothes, the scholarly public can wear.
The style of pipa lapel, lapel, lapel three. The pipa-breasted waistcoat, also known as the short-breasted waistcoat because of the shortness of the right lapel, can move freely in it, and is often used as traveling clothes. The large-breasted waistcoat, on the other hand, has its lapel open on the right side and is surrounded by a different color as the edge, and is generally used as a regular dress. Lapel coat, the color of the service in various periods there are a variety of changes: the first along the sky green, to the middle of the Qianlong period, but also rose purple, and then promote the deep reddish-red color (known as the "blessed color"), to the Jiaqing years, it is popular in the mud gold and light gray. Large-sleeved lapel coat can be used as a dress instead of a coat, the color is mostly azure, the size of the officials in the guest often wear this dress, because of its long sleeves and narrow, also known as "long-sleeved coat".
There is a color that can not be used casually, that is yellow. The yellow waistcoat is the emperor's special gift of clothing. Wearing this kind of clothing, there are three main categories: one is with the emperor "tour" of the guards, known as the "duty lab coat"; two is the line around the school shooting, hit the target or more than those who were hunted, known as the "line around the lab coat "; Third, in the governance or war with meritorious achievements, known as the" martial arts coat ", these people will also be recorded in the annals of history. Only this imperial coat can be worn at any time.
Coat
The cheongsam is a women's garment of the Qing Dynasty in China, evolved from the Manchu women's robe. Since the Manchus are called "Banner People", it is called "cheongsam". At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, Manchu women mainly wore long robes, while Han Chinese women were still fashionable with clothes underneath; in the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the Manchus and the Han Chinese followed suit; in the late Qing Dynasty, the Manchu emulated the Han Chinese in a growing trend. The cheongsam improved by the Han people gradually popularized in the majority of women. This cheongsam is the Han Chinese women in the absorption of Western clothing styles, through continuous improvement, before entering the thousands of households. There are many styles of cheongsam, such as Ruyi placket, Pipa placket, oblique placket, double placket; collar with high collar, low collar, no collar; cuffs with long sleeves, short sleeves, no sleeves; slits with high slits, low slits; there are also long cheongsam, short cheongsam, clip cheongsam, single cheongsam, etc. The improved cheongsam became popular among women in the 20th century. The modified cheongsam became almost the standard dress for Chinese women in the 1930s