Generally commonly used filter media only need the above to meet the purification cycle in the aquarium, on my personal opinion, we do not have to believe too much in the product publicity, in the filtration system, only need to have a filter cotton and glass ring has been enough, and must be as much as possible the use of the glass ring! If you pay attention to the pictures of my filtration system, you will find that I have always put the glass ring in the most important position, occupying the largest proportion, and I have used this method to keep a variety of fish species have been healthy and less disease, I have a bottle of N years ago, the methyl blue into the So far also still diffuse a bottle has not been used, white spots and other diseases have been several years have not seen. Nitrification strong germs have less room to live, higher plants strong algae have less room to live. Now that the tank and filtration are ready, is the next step to start keeping fish? The answer is NO, a new aquarium is like a newly renovated house, inside the harmful substances are many, we renovate the house, are back to open the window and put 2 months to wait for the smell to dissipate and then move in to live, everyone is life, do not be so inhumane to the fish OK, so the first step of the new tank of course, is to "raise the tank". I did not say wrong, not to raise water, is to raise the tank, of course, we are going to put the water to raise it, the tank a good wash a few times, and then put a tank full of water, and then hard to sprinkle him a few packets of salt down ah, don't ask me to sprinkle how much, as long as you are still willing to as long as it will also be dissolved, continue to sprinkle it, thick salt water will be the germs, odor, and a layer of the surface of the unstable glass glue all clear away, so a tank of salt water quietly to raise a week! Above, of course, if your heart is very good, you keep a month, your future little fish will thank you with health. Do not go through this stage of raising the tank, sometimes you will find a tank of water after you put the water under the fish have been milky, how can not clear, do not be surprised, because there are other bacteria in the inhibition of your baby nitrification, basically, you can already declare that you will be raising what die what Raising the tank is over, the tank to raise the tank of all the water to clear out. Step 2, of course, is not the next fish, we are going to raise the water, to put it bluntly, 2 purposes, 1 is to let a tank of water aging, 2 is to cultivate the nitrification. This time to envision your future fish tank, do you want to bottom sand? Do you want aquascaping? Should you also plant some grass? If your answer is yes, then, first wash the aquascape hardware and put it down, then put a tank full of water, turn the pump on, don't tell me you don't want to turn it on, don't tell me you're afraid of the noise, then I'd advise you to give up on fish farming, or else, you raise a few loaches to see it's not bad wow. From this moment on, your pump won't stop unless the water is changed, the power goes out and it breaks. Nitrification depends on the water flow in your tank to survive, when you have a nitrification community forming in your tank, you stop the water flow for 4 hours, nitrification will start to die, 12 hours, nitrification dies in large quantities, 24 hours, congrats, you can re-cultivate over-nitrification because there is nothing left in your tank. After 3 days of releasing the water to open the pump, you can start to put down a few peacock or zebra or something like that, we call it open tank fish, although it is not a good fish, but we have to be ethical, don't put down the fish as soon as you put down the water, so that people go to drink the fresh chlorine water, otherwise if the fish can talk, it will greet your family, basically, from the bottom of the open tank fish, we are even the official cultivation of the nitrification, the fish don't need to be fed, the peacock can eat the water's planktonic particles, and it will also defecate, just the nitrification of the early food, this time your nitrification is too little wow, just a little bit of poo has been busy dead them, do not need to add what bottled nitrification ah what powdered nitrification ah, those are not good things, often people ask, buy nitrification stinks, there are cloudy particles, positively not normal ah, I can tell him clearly, you've been fooled, you buy is not nitrification, or fake nitrification, real nitrification is not a good thing, but it is a good thing. Or false nitrification, really good nitrification is clear, odorless, and the packaging must have written on the factory date, more than half a year on the failure can not be used again. Put the open tank fish, the next slowly raise it, general water time should be in 2 weeks to more than 1 month, do not turn on the lights during the period, only need to turn on the pump 24 hours Here to understand the principle of water, generally in the water during the period we mainly want to cultivate nitrobacteria, nitrification is divided into many kinds of nitrification, but they all have **** the same characteristics, good high oxygen, anaerobic. Set up a tank at the beginning, the bacteria have not stabilized, this time under the fish, often resulting in poorer and poorer water quality, and finally become a tank of "milk", very suitable for people who like milk to watch. So when we raise the tank, we focus on nitrification services, not for the fish, to provide the best environment and conditions for nitrification, this is what we call fish first water (bacteria). We can't turn on the light during the water cultivation period, to let the nitrification active, at the same time, because this time the water quality is not stable, the most easy to survive organisms is the famous algae, once the algae broke out in the early stage of setting up the tank, it's easy to make the tank scrapped, because it's hard for you to remove it cleanly in the future, the opening stage of the tank is the biotope in the tank to compete for the turf stage, if it's spread by the algae, you may need to use the boiling water later to remove it completely. If the algae spreads, you may need to boil it later to remove it completely. At this time, the pump should not be stopped, the water should flow through the filtration material all the time, in order to make the nitrification active and reproduction, don't say there is nothing in the tank now, so don't turn on the pump, what is in the tank now is the most important members that you can't see with your naked eyes, treat them well. I said before, freshwater aquarium plays with the ecology, saltwater aquarium plays with the equipments, of course, this statement may not be so relevant, but the freshwater aquarium relies on the biochemical filtration cycle to achieve the goal of the aquarium, it is a good way to get rid of the algae. However, a freshwater aquarium is maintained by a biochemical filtration cycle, not by a physical filtration cycle. This is an ecological cycle that is invisible to the naked eye, which we call the nitrogen cycle. This cycle contains several steps that are triggered by different bacteria. You will understand why you need to provide a "home" for these bacteria to carry out this "Nitrogen Cycle". Step 1: Fish feces and uneaten food are converted to ammonia (commonly known as ammonia); that's because the bacteria in these things need oxygen to split proteins. Ammonia is toxic. Step 2: Nitrifying bacteria, which live in the presence of oxygen, convert ammonia into nitrite (NO2), which is a lesser toxin but still lethal to fish. Step 3: Nitrite is then converted to nitrate (NO3) by a second type of nitrifying bacteria; this nitrate is virtually non-toxic, but sudden or prolonged exposure to high concentrations of nitrate can be harmful. Fortunately, the concentration of nitrates can be reduced by changing the water in the tank. Step 4: Nitrate is then sublimated by bacteria that do not live on oxygen: anaerobic bacteria (also called denitrifying bacteria) that turn it into nitrogen gas, which is a complete "nitrogen compound cycle". Unfortunately, for various reasons, we usually can't continue after completing the third step, because anaerobic bacteria (denitrifying bacteria) need more severe conditions than nitrification, and it's hard for general novices to successfully reproduce a denitrifying community, so we should usually change the water after completing the third step. Anaerobic bacteria are more troublesome to set up and feed, and often bring inconvenience and hidden danger in future tank management. If you are not a crazy player, you won't try it, because water change can also achieve the purpose of denitrification, so the culture of denitrification is more often seen as a technical challenge than a practical behavior. Generally we need to do the opposite, contrary to the nitrification environment, set up a bottom oxygen zone in the tank, and this bottom oxygen zone can't be too big or too small, it needs to be opposite to the high oxygen zone (nitrification zone), in order to achieve a balance with the nitrification, because these 2 kinds of bacteria are contradictory, if the nitrifying bacteria are too active, it will make the denitrifying bacteria disappear, and if the denitrifying bacteria are too active, it will make the nitrifying bacteria fail as well. The general practice is to lay thick sand as anaerobic area in the tank, the thickness should be more than 10 centimeters, it should be noted that, although anaerobic bacteria are anaerobic, but it can't be completely anaerobic, so this area is just low oxygen, there is still need to have a slow water flow through the sand bed, if the water flow is too big, it will be a high oxygen area, and the nitrification will be active and fail. If the water flow is too small or not, it will be an accumulation of garbage. Denitrification can not survive and eventually become NO3 accumulation area and failure, so it is best to use a small power pump with anti-bottom sand filtration (casing is best to use a thin tube), the size of the water flow you need to keep trying until you find out the intensity of the appropriate, at the same time, during the cultivation of denitrification, denitrifying bacteria also need food, the most common is the white ball, which will be slowly dissolved in the water for a period of time after the need to be replaced, the price is generally in the The price is generally in the range of ten to dozens of a grain. The formation and stabilization of denitrifying bacteria community is a much slower process, usually takes several months, if you take this time as the water stage, I believe that many players will not be able to accept half a year only to see the results of an empty tank, so try to try the players think twice! Schematic diagram of anaerobic zone Generally divided into 3 layers, from top to bottom are fine sand layer, about 5 cm, the middle is coarse sand layer, about 5 cm, the bottom is the hollow water-filled layer, about 2-3 cm, casing is placed in the water-filled layer of the position, water-filled layer and sand layer between the mesh to separate the water and sand. Water-filled layer There is no sand, only water, the water here contains oxygen, oxygen will slowly diffuse into the sand (micro-oxygen zone), the state of the sand zone is the most stable, the flushing zone can be used to generate oxygen with a micro-water flow, or can not be used, directly from the nitrification and denitrification process: NO3----> (into) NO2----> N2O----> N2, note that the last N2O becomes N2, oxygen is detached and diffused to the micro-oxygen zone. During the maintenance of the water we have to clarify a few indicators dKH soft hardness KH = Carbonate Hardness, is the value of the concentration of bicarbonate (HCO3-) in the water body. KH helps to stabilize PH, it is also the main element of nitrifying bacteria to break down NH3 and nitrite. Generally, the German standard is used as KH, i.e. 10mg of calcium oxide per liter of water is considered as 1KH. less than 6.5 is considered as soft water, more than 6.5 is considered as hard water, and 6.5 is considered as moderately hard water. Generally speaking, ornamental fishes do not react to hardness intensely, but the requirement of hardness during breeding period must be a bit harsh. Besides, the level of KH value is also related to the level of calcium and PH value. Decrease in KH will cause PH to decrease at the same time, while stabilization of KH will also cause PH to stabilize. Resin can change the KH value. Coral sand, limestone, etc. can also harden water. GH = General Hardness, an indicator of the elements in the water (calcium, magnesium, etc.) Generally we do not measure GH. pH pH was introduced in 1909 by the Danish biochemist Soren Peter Lauritz Sorensen. The p stands for the German word Potenz, meaning power or concentration, and the H stands for hydrogen ion (H+). Sometimes pH is also written as the Latin form pondus hydrogenii. Scientists have developed a set of indicators of acidity and alkalinity from zero to fourteen, referred to as pH. A pH of 7 is neutral; a pH below 7 is acidic, and the lower the pH the more acidic it is; conversely, a pH above 7 is alkaline, and the higher the pH the more alkaline it is. The pH of water can be approximated using a universal indicator or pH paper made from it. The pH value is related to the concentration of hydrogen ions in the water, so depending on the concentration of hydrogen ions in the water, you can determine whether the water is acidic or alkaline. The pH value is expressed in logarithmic units, i.e., a difference of 1 pH is 10 times stronger, e.g., pH 7 is 10 times more acidic than pH 8. The pH value is affected by the following common situations: 1. high water temperature, low pH; low water temperature, high pH 2. high oxygen content in the water, high pH; low oxygen content in the water, low pH 3. high calcium content in the water, the ph value will also decrease 4. dKH value in the water is too low The use of ceramic rings for a long time will continue to release acid, so try to avoid ceramic ring glass ring, sinking wood will be released oxalic acid, rotting biological remains and rotten leaves will release acid Sedimentary wood will release oxalic acid, decaying remains of organisms and rotten leaves will release acid. Various fish like different water quality indexes, before releasing the fish, you must do this step to adjust the environment and stabilize it. Another thing to mention is that, lime water (calcium hydroxide) can raise the PH and precipitate the PO4 (phosphate) which is very useful for regulating the water quality, but it can't be poured directly in large quantities into the tank, and it must be used in the time of turning off the lights (it may not be applicable to the system of the tank which has a 24-hour light). It must be added during the light-off period (24-hour light system may not be applicable). Add it slowly and drop it in a high water flow zone. Although Calcium Hydroxide is slow to dissolve and does not have a very high pH value, so it is less likely to harm your skin, but you should still be careful when using it, and avoid prolonged contact or inhalation into your lungs. Next, let's talk about the various aquascape materials that may be used in the tank Sand is a controversial material, after laying it, it will produce the accumulation of dirt, NO3 results, do not lay it, many people think it is not good, so it depends on the trade-offs, it is generally used in the anti-bottom sand filtration or a very thin layer of purely decorative to solve the problems it creates, generally suitable for the use of Tahsi sand or iso sand, and the hardness of silica sand, there are also stable quartz sand. In addition, there are stable performance of quartz sand and artificial black gold sand, etc., if purely decorative use, the thickness should be within 1 cm, the size of 1-4 mm diameter can be selected, should not be too large or easy to hide stolen goods. Stone There are many kinds of general ornamental fish should try to choose the appearance of smooth, hard texture of the stone, try to avoid the loose texture of the stone in order to prevent its release caused by water quality changes. The first choice is igneous rock type, the main component is silicate; second is sedimentary rock type, in order to be rich in silicate is good; and then quartz-rich metamorphic rock, the component is silicon dioxide. Generally suitable for fish tanks are wood fossil, lake stone, pebbles, quartzite, axe stone, and so on. For keeping different fish, generally like slightly acidic soft water fish should try to choose the above types, like slightly alkaline hard fish can also consider coral reefs, stalactites, limestone and so on. Sunken wood is also one of the favorite materials for players, it is made by natural charring of some trees with hard texture after they die, with high density. The first thing you should pay attention to is the degree of charring, if the charring is complete, the lignin will be very little, and the performance is more and more stable, if the lignin is too much, after a long time of immersion, it will decompose tannins and humic acid, although it will not be harmful to the living creatures, but it's rich in pigmentation, so you should wash the sunken wood after buying it and then immersed it in the water, and change the water often, or directly immersed in the flowing water. Submerged in flowing water, pay attention to observation, remove all the possible rotten parts, and then use it after the sunken wood stops spitting color, it will take a long time, if the lignin part is too much, it may take 1-2 years to stop spitting color, if you want to use it in a hurry, you will need to change the water often and add activated charcoal to dilute the pigment. Artificial materials Including fake mountains, fake water plants and so on. Generally is made of resin, cement or plastic, to build to avoid cement; resin such as inexperienced to build do not buy, because you are likely to buy added toxic catalysts resin products lead to a tank of fish died in the unknown; plastic products to build to choose to float, if it is submerged in water, plastic, may carry toxicity, this point should be noted We should also be ready to prepare things, thermometers, traditional glass Thermometer, traditional glass thermometer, the error may be very large, usually need to buy a few more, compared to the room temperature to find the most accurate one to use Electronic thermometers can display decimal places, more accurate than the glass thermometer, some will also record the maximum / minimum temperature and measure the room temperature and water temperature at the same time, the price is high, the economy allows players to consider Heating Rods Keeping tropical fish in the winter is a must, and at the same time, is the high temperature of the treatment of the sharp tool. From 50 watts to hundreds of watts, for different sizes of fish tanks should be corresponding selection, for larger tanks it is best to use 2 at the same time in order to quickly and evenly regulate the water temperature, and the initial use of attention to the quality of observation, to prevent the purchase will not stop the "boiling water stick Speaking of heating on the incidental mention of cooling, aquarium creatures are not only afraid of cold, there is also a significant portion of fear of high temperatures, a lot of the Yin! A lot of negative aquatic plants are also afraid of high temperature, such as Moss, etc. will stop growing if it exceeds 28 degrees, and more than 32 degrees may cause death. Since there are a lot of electrical appliances in the tank to generate heat, players in high temperature areas in the summer, it is best to consider a cooling fan Cooling fan is to rely on 45 degrees blowing to the surface of the water, the water will vaporize so as to take away the heat, generally can be reduced by 1-2 degrees, depending on the amount of water. Generally, you can buy a 4 or 6 head fan, the price is medium, but it is more convenient and beautiful, which attracts a lot of players, but the lifespan is not long, so there are a lot of fishermen who DIY their own computer cooling fan to blow to the surface of the tank, and it is very cheap. It is important to note that the cooling fan can only cool down the tank when the air in the room is circulating, and the limit can only bring the water down to room temperature, and the amount of water evaporates very quickly, so you need to add fresh water regularly to replenish the water. PS: Using 12v will be safer than 220v There is one more thing we need to prepare during this period, lights. Since the fish is for ornamental purposes, of course, we need good light, there are many types of lamps, the effect is completely different. But the installation must pay attention to the safety and stability. Ultraviolet germicidal lamp (UV lamp) an almost sealed container, the water flow through it, inside the ultraviolet lamp irradiation sterilization, water flow should be slow, the longer the irradiation time, the better the sterilization effect, there are a variety of wattage (5w, 9w, 11w, 12w, 18w, 24w, 36w, 55w, etc.) according to the amount of aquarium water to choose from, the use of a larger wattage will be more effective. It kills protozoa bacteria, zooplankton and algae, but then converts NO3 to NO2 and has a high heat. Be careful never to destroy the housing, being exposed to the UV lamp for a long time may cause blindness in people and fish. It is good to use the germicidal lamp for about half an hour a day. It is best to use it in a bottom tank filtration system by placing the lamp in the bottom tank. In addition, other types of lamps are often labeled as "germicidal", which is a scam. During the period of keeping water, you must pay attention to observe, due to various reasons, such as unstable water quality, local water quality is too fat, the placement is not reasonable, etc., it is likely to produce a problem: algae. Algae is the enemy of aquarium, affecting the ornamental, competing for fertilizer, consuming oxygen, and will cause environmental degradation if not dealt with in time. Here is a list of some common algae and how to deal with them. Brown algae, also known as diatoms, mostly diatoms, generally tea-brown, thin film, often grown on the glass stones and aquatic plants leaves, finger gently rubbed immediately fall off. The reason is that the new tank is set up for the first time, the water quality is not stable, because nitrification is not formed, so the ammonia and nitrogen compounds are not decomposed completely, there is insufficient oxygen, insufficient water flow, nitrate is too high, and the PH is too high at 7.5 or above. It is necessary to change water regularly and moderately, combine with magnetic brush to remove, use activated carbon to reduce PH, and strengthen oxygen supply. Green Silk Algae Generally appear near the surface of the water and in places with sufficient light sources, light green, filamentous hair. Like aquatic plants, it grows in ecological tanks with good environment. The causes are high nitrate concentration, too few water changes, incomplete stabilization of PH, too much light, too long exposure time and insufficient water flow. It is necessary to change water regularly, use activated carbon, reduce the amount of light, shorten the lighting time, and put moss rats and other algae-eating fish. Green moss algae, also known as green mucous membrane algae or green seaweed algae, light green, will have a fishy odor, like a layer of carpet. Generally born in the sand bed and stone, foliage or glass, the vitality is very strong. It may be brought in by buying aquatic plants, or the light is too strong, the light time is too long, the ammonia nitrogen content is too high, the bottom sand is not cleaned for a long time, the water change is too little, the water change time is too long, the filter material is not cleaned for a long time, and there is a dead end in the water flow in the tank. You must change the water diligently, 1/3 of the water each time, clear the bottom sand, reduce the light, strengthen the water flow, put algae-eating fish, and disinfect and clean the water plants before putting them into the tank. Green algae, planktonic algae, a variety of species, filamentous, dotted and so on. In addition to the impact of ornamental, generally not too harmful, but also fish friends often ask why the water has become green. This kind of algae can be used as peacock and other young fish feeding water, but if attached to the side of the water plants may affect the growth of water plants, generally brought in by fish food, such as water fleas, etc., can be removed by germicidal lamps, water can also be a large number of removal, and at the same time, release peacocks and other fish and algae-eating fish. Brush algae, also called fur algae, red algae. It has high destructive power to aquatic plants and grows tightly on grass blades, glass and stones. It is a fine and protruding bristle shaped like a toothbrush, and is named after it. It has big color changes from green to black, and it reproduces at an alarming speed, and it is one of the most horrible algae. Generally it may be brought in by aquatic plants, or it may be incomplete decomposition of nitrogen, too high phosphate (PO4), too much light, too long a time of light, too strong a current, too high an oxygen content or unstable water quality. Before the aquatic plants are put into the tank, they must be carefully inspected and disinfected, remove the algae-carrying leaves, use activated carbon to stabilize the water quality, put in algae-eating fish, reduce the light, shorten the light time, reduce the water flow, don't use an air pump, and use an algaecide if necessary. Cyanobacteria Misty, the surface of the sticky slippery gelatinous protective layer, with a special flavor, blue-green, reproduction speed, but also a very dangerous algae, easy to be born in the new tank, if born in the grass blades will form a lipid film directly smothered water plants, and has a strong nitrogen-fixing ability, is an important sign of water deterioration, once it appears, it represents the nitrate is too high. Generally it is due to sand bed corruption or set up unreasonably, sand grain is too fine or too thick, feeding too much water change too little, light is too weak, oxygen is insufficient, insufficient water flow, you should change the water regularly, strengthen the water flow, put food algae fish. Sosin general algae outbreak is mostly due to the spores are not careful to be brought into the tank and triggered, so the new grass and new fish in the tank before the quarantine can be avoided to a large extent, in addition, some areas of the tap water will contain phosphate (PO4) is too high, easy to cause algae breeding, this point also need to pay attention to, so we need a period of water to stabilize the water quality of our tank as soon as possible is very important, so that the nitrification flourish to Inhibit the development of other harmful microorganisms is very important, I hope that new players who are in a hurry to fish can pay attention to it. After keeping the water for a few weeks, if a light brown color appears on the filter media such as glass ring in the filter tank, let's celebrate, nitrification is coming. If not, there is no need to be too sad, after a few weeks, the water has been aging, although the naked eye can not be seen, but nitrification does exist, this time we can start to think about our purpose: Incidentally, many fishermen like to use the air pump to increase oxygen, that as long as the bubble will be high oxygen content, let's understand the principle of the work of the air pump, the air pump through the air tubes and the air stone to launch a large number of bubbles, but these are just air, so the new players can pay attention to the air pump. However, these are just air, so the bubbles in the water can not increase the oxygen content, when the bubbles rise to the surface of the water and rupture, the rupture of a moment will tear the skin of the water, and the oxygen is in this time into the water, so the fluctuating and undulating surface of the water is more capable of bringing in a large amount of oxygen, and this is the reason that the filtration methods such as drip (overflow) are better suited for the survival of nitrification than the upper filter, filter tank, and other filtration methods, because The skin of the water flowing from top to bottom in the filter tank is constantly being ripped apart, so there will be more oxygen. The next natural step is to buy fish, the purchase of fish need to pay attention to the first do not buy just into the store fish, and then buy after the quarantine and observation period; second, the first keepers should not raise rare, expensive, difficult fish; third, do not buy the fish do not look healthy, the fish is likely to have incurable diseases; four group of fish should be in the same group of fish to buy; fifth, we must find out the habitats of the fish, do not mix the regional fish, and do not put the herbivorous fish and aquatic grasses together. Do not mix fish that are too regional in nature, or keep herbivorous fish with water plants; 6. Before buying, make sure you know how big the fish will be when they grow up, and whether they have any special requirements for water quality; 7. Do not buy fish that are too different in size to keep together. Before purchasing fish, it is best to prepare a quarantine tank, which can also be used as a medical tank and breeding tank, which is very necessary, but many people do not care so much. The quarantine tank does not need to be too big, new fish should not be put into the main tank right away, they should live in the quarantine tank for more than 1 week, and then put into the main tank only after observing the situation is stable and healthy, so as not to have problems and lose our hard-earned tank overnight. Although the quarantine tank is small, it still needs basic life support equipment, a small upper filter is necessary, if the fish is large, you should also add an air pump, lighting can be avoided, as long as you can clearly observe the condition of the fish. When the fish comes home, it can't go straight down to the tank, because there are two more steps to be taken: to the temperature and to the water. Almost no fish can be transferred from one body of water to another without difficulty, except for migratory fish, so the first thing to do when the new fish comes back is to put the fish together with the bag containing the fish into the water in the tank, the bag must not be unraveled, and this lasts for about half an hour, in order to let the temperature of the water in the bag and the water in the tank to reach the same temperature, which is called the opposite temperature. Then we should scoop out half a basin of water in the tank, unzip the bag, pour some water out of the bag, and then fill the basin with water, the proportion should be a little smaller at the beginning, and then about every 10 minutes to exchange about 10% of the water, generally in half an hour to an hour to complete, the more sensitive fish should be a little longer, during the period of time, pay attention to once the fish have symptoms of hypoxia should be used to pump the air pump to play enough oxygen. After the completion of the water, pots and bags of water has been mixed together, with a net to fish out into the main tank, the water left behind all the water do not, in order to prevent the introduction of germs and algae. New fish finally under the tank, this time the fish just to a new environment, need time to adapt, due to nervousness and the water than to adapt, may show no spirit or hyperactive state, do not care about it, the general fish need 3-7 days to adapt to the new environment, during the period of time should be less light, try to let the fish as soon as possible to adapt to the period of time can not be fed, one is afraid of food contamination of the water quality caused by the death of the fish weak, one is to let the fish One of the reasons is to keep the fish hungry and open their mouths to eat after acclimatization. After 3-7 days of adaptation, start to gradually extend the lighting time, start 3 hours, 2 days after 5 hours, and then 2 days after 7-8 hours, feeding is also the same, the beginning of a very small feed a little, and then gradually increase every day straight to the normal amount (the normal amount of food refers to the fish in 5 minutes to eat the food, and to reach 7 minutes full, still have the desire to eat but the stomach has been full). When the lighting and feeding have been normal, congratulations, you have been in the regular maintenance of your beloved aquarium world. Finally is the daily maintenance, in the case of nitrification is very ideal, our tank will still gradually accumulate nitrate (NO3), in general, we need to use the water change to solve, and do not think that their water quality is very good, you can be lazy not to change the water, perhaps your water quality can be maintained for half a year without changing, but once the NO3 problem outbreaks, in exchange for a tank of living creatures may all be Dead, or nitrification system collapsed overnight, germs crazy development. So, make a habit of regular water change, once a week, 1/5 or 1/3 depending on the situation, to minimize all possible risks. Then there is the question about medication, although if we can strictly follow the steps in this post to take care of a tank, the chances of the virus surviving and developing will be very small, but we should still be prepared, in case the fish get sick, we should try not to put the fish medicine directly into the main tank, but should fish out the sick fish to treat it in a medical tank, because the salt and the various kinds of fish medicine not only kills germs, but likewise kills the nitrifying bacteria, it is just a matter of severity. It's just a matter of whether it's serious or not. Nitrification is also a kind of bacteria, and there are but not many bacteria that can resist salt and drugs. The stronger the drug such as formalin, the worse it will destroy. If you must drug your main tank, it's best to establish a nitrifying community in your main tank once more after you've completed the treatment.