1. Overall, the body is round, the limbs are short, and the abdomen is on the ground when walking is the hamster's characteristic. Mainly live in very dry areas, very strong adaptability to the environment, more suitable for first-time pet owners. They have a lifespan of 2~4 years and grow up fast, which means that their bodies change rapidly and they can get sick very quickly.
2. There are about 23 types of hamsters, and 5 types are kept as pets. The Silver Fox is also known as the Belarusian, and there is a kind of Sapphire which I personally think is probably the purple hamster, and the old man is also known as the deer hamster. Personal opinion: the current market appearance of the super white silver fox \ granny and so on, may be the remaining 18 types of species.
Campbell's hamster has a characteristic: compared with its small body, large ears and strength is its characteristics.
3. The hamster is a nocturnal animal with a well-developed sense of hearing, even ultrasonic waves can be heard, so it does not like noisy environments. There is a little light source can see things, but the eyesight is not good, especially can only distinguish between black and white, the world is black and white for it. There are black dots 3 millimeters to the left and right of the dorsal spine, these are the body glands, which are more developed in males. The whiskers are antennae for detecting the environment.
4. Distinguish between males and females: The easiest way is to look at the genitals. Female hamsters have genitals that are closer to the anus, while males are further away and have testicles. It is usually difficult to tell the difference between baby hamsters, but after 8 weeks of age, the females are larger than the males. Baby hamsters usually have nipples, but only the female's become visible as she grows.
5. Hamsters are omnivores and should be fed a diet consisting of cereals/nuts/fresh vegetables and fruits, 10~15 grams per day, once a day, when they are active or at night. Walnuts can be crushed into several pieces as teething food. Water should never be withheld, especially during pregnancy or during menstruation.
6. Spring is the best season for hamsters to breed, so increase the amount of nutritious food, and if you don't want them to breed, reduce the amount of protein and give them more vegetables.
7. A hamster cage should be 3 times bigger than the hamster. Hamsters are very active, and in the wild they can travel up to 20 kilometers a day.
8. Bedding can be made from grass, cork shavings, rice stems, or cut up newspaper and toilet paper. The particles should not be too small. Hamsters like dark, narrow nests. It should be cleaned out almost every day, but leave a small amount of fecal material mixed in with the new one to reassure the hamster.
9. Use a toothbrush to comb the hamster's fur.
10. Hamsters are naturally afraid of water. It will use its own saliva to wash its body every day, so it is not necessary to bathe the hamster. If it is too dirty, just dip a towel in water and gently wipe it. If your hamster's fur is not shiny and messy, it is better to pay attention to your hamster's health rather than bathing it. Personal opinion: there is no need to buy expensive imported hamster bath sand, with the fine cat sand or construction site to get some yellow sand filtered and washed clean for it to use on the line. There is no need to do sunbathing for hamsters.
11. Female hamsters in captivity usually go into heat 4~5 days, usually at night when they are active, their reproductive organs become engorged with blood and turn red, and secretions flow out, and their bodies become active and they run around. In order to make male and female hamsters interested in each other, you can cage them together and put the female into the male's cage after 3 days or more, and then separate the cages if they fight. Usually the male chases the female at first, but soon they become very close. Mating is short and takes place over several sessions, which is the main characteristic of hamster mating. If mating is going well, the female hamster will start to build a nest or chase the male hamster. Usually the mating is over in 3 days.
12. During pregnancy, the female hamster should be given more nutritious, high-protein food, but not too much sunflower and peanuts and other nuts because they are too high in fat, which will make the hamster too fat to give birth.
13. 3 weeks after the baby hamster is born, it can be disturbed. You need to separate the big ones from the small ones.
14. Diseases of hamsters: Wet tail is a unique disease of hamsters, the area around the buttocks will become very dirty, and will die in 2-3 days. 5-6 weeks after birth, hamsters are especially vulnerable to this disease, and it can be transmitted to other hamsters. Cheek sac ulcers: neck tumors or pus and swollen, treatment: surgery to cut off the wound and then use antibiotics; lice: hair loss all over the body, severe itching, can be taken or injected to resist lice medicine to treat, prevention: pay attention to frequent cleaning of the cage, keep dry. Heatstroke: the body becomes soft, the mouth spits bubbles, prevent the temperature is too high. Prevent heatstroke by cleaning the cage frequently and keeping it dry. Feed. Mice are very good small animals, their feed can be bought ready-made in the flower and bird market, but more affordable is in accordance with the shishi mother's feed table to match their own, flower and bird market prices can be eaten for a long time! The main recipe: shelled hemp seeds, millet (flower bird market sells small birds of the place to sell), then you can buy corn flakes in the supermarket, buckwheat, cereal, and finally with some original flavor melon seeds, remember to be original! Don't bring the salty flavor, the rat will eat it and it will be hot and dry in the mouth.
. Wood chips.
This is a must Oh, can absorb moisture to remove the odor, the general price according to the weight of 25-60 yuan range.
. Mouse cage.
Shishi recommends imported cages made of plexiglass for good ventilation. There are many plexiglass cages on the market with different prices, shishi suggests not to buy too big and too complicated, cleaning and hygiene work is not convenient, and secondly, do not buy a cage surrounded by wire, so that the rat will be colder in winter, and it is best to buy two sides of the ventilation! In the winter just take cardboard to cover one side, the rat is very warm!
. Roller.
The roller is for the rat to exercise and play with, there are separate ones on the market and also with the cage, if it is a separate one, remember not to buy the wire one, the rat's feet are easy to be sprained.
. Food bowl.
The food bowl doesn't have to be a special one for rats, you can also use a small dish for human use instead.
. Bathing tub and bath sand
Bathing is a must for rats and mice to stay clean! So a bath tub is also a necessity! Keeping clean is a priority for healthy rats!
☆★★About Diet★☆
Staple Food:
Mice and rats live only 2-3 years, so it's not too much to ask them to eat well. Mice and rats are omnivores and will eat almost anything.
But the staple food is grains and cereals: you can refer to the recipe told above.
Moisture:
Rats can do without water, if you want to drink remember to always boil water! Shishi's rats are given fruits and vegetables to keep them hydrated! Since they are so small, a little bit of water is enough! Their favorite food is bok choy, so remember to rinse it well and dry it in the air. Yellow Brussels sprouts and cabbages are fine! But wash them well! Like tomatoes, cucumbers, apples and oranges are all fine for them to eat.
. About sunflower seeds.
Melon seeds also have a variety of types, like sunflower seeds, melon seeds, watermelon seeds, etc., the rat is very love to eat oh.
Rats are quite fond of sunflower melon seeds, but the fat content of sunflower melon seeds is high, and the rats will eat too much of them, which will cause obesity, partiality, malnutrition and other problems. Therefore, sunflower melon seeds can only be used as snacks or non-essential products to enhance the relationship, and they cannot be fed too much, and they can only eat a meal of one or two at the most. However, if it is in winter, you can give some more to the rat to increase the heat, in order to tide over the winter oh.
. Foods not to be eaten.
The rat is an omnivorous animal, but there are still things you can not eat, if you accidentally eat, light diarrhea, heavy death, not to be careful Oh!
. Spicy (stimulating) food.
such as chili peppers, green peppers, onions, garlic, ginger, leeks, nine layers of peppers.
. Peaches, plums, apples and other kernels.
It is said to cause a rapid heartbeat in rats, potentially leading to symptoms such as shock. The reasons for this are not clear, but be careful what you wish for. These products are high in potassium ions, which can cause rats to overdose and die of tachycardia.
. The human food.
Human food, after cooking, is too oily and salty for rats, which is very harmful to their health, especially meat dishes or other oily snacks, do not give rats to eat!
. How to divide male and female.
In order for the baby rats in your home to produce the next generation, of course, you need to know whether the rats are younger brothers or sisters ^^ But if you don't want to have a whole lot of baby rats coming out of your home, remember to separate the cages after separating the males and females!!!!
. Male rats.
The anus is farther away from the peeing area, and a normal adult male rat will have balls (or testicles) visible.
. Female rats.
The anus is closer to the peeing area and there is a cleft in the center.
. Age of birth.
Rats have a prime reproductive age just like humans.
Generally speaking, a normal rat (male or female) is an adult rat by three months, which means it can have babies. However, it is best to wait until the female rat is five to six months old before the rat is born, so that the female rat's body, stability have reached a degree, born out of the little rat will also be more healthy, the female rat's body will also recover better. And when the female rat is more than one year old, it is best not to let her give birth again, otherwise the baby born out of the high chance of premature death and the mother rat is prone to difficult labor or fetal death!!!!
. Maturation of adult rats.
. Male rats.
When a male rat's balls come out, it's a sign that he's growing up. In addition, another characteristic of adult rats is that their scent lines (navels) will begin to secrete liquid, and they will also begin to fight over territory and fights, so at this time, please separate rats into separate cages. In addition, once the male rats start to come into heat, they will be in a state where they want to have sex every day, which means that they can get pregnant at any time, so if you don't want the female rats to get pregnant, you should separate the cages immediately.
. Female rats.
The female rats are harder to tell from the appearance of the adult rats, but if the female rats grow up, they will start to produce a special smell of secretion (the smell of the golden female rats is heavier, it is very good to find out) secreted by the genitals, and in addition, the female rats will also have menstruation, but it is only a trace amount, not so much as to be detected, so if you find that the female rats are bleeding from the buttocks or the pubic area, you must check it out right away. It may just be trauma, but it could also be uterine disease or prolapse, which could put the rat's life in danger. Remember~
. Breeding is important to know.
While it is very rewarding to be a rat mom or dad, please consider whether you have the money, time, and space to raise a baby rat, and think twice before doing so.
. The male and female must be of the same breed.
That means Kampai → Kampai, Gaka → Gaka, etc. Mating rats of different breeds will cause difficult births for the females or deformed mice, so please make sure you know the species of the rats before you act.
. Do not match close relatives.
This means that siblings or cousins should not be matched, or they will give birth to mice with deformities or genetic defects.
. Whether the mouse has a hereditary disease.
E.g. diabetes. Mice may inherit diseases from their parents, not 100%. But the chances are high, so it's best not to let a mouse with a hereditary disease have children.
. Whether or not the mouse is pregnant.
Generally speaking, female rats are originally more rounded in shape, and if the rat is fat again, it's really hard to tell if she's pregnant or not.
1. Female rats are strongly resistant to male rats
The female rats are strongly resistant to male rats and won't let the male rats get close to them, and even the female rats will run away screaming or attacking when the male rats get close to them. It's time to pay attention to the fact that the female rat may be pregnant, and you need to isolate the male rat from her immediately!
2. The female rat has a bulging abdomen.
Touching the mother's abdomen, if you feel a small bulge, and if she is running around, she is having a baby. However, this can only be detected in the middle to late stages of pregnancy, and it is important to remember to only "gently touch", as too much force may cause the mother to miscarry or the mice to be harmed. !!!!
3. The female is pear-shaped.
Look at the female's body shape, the abdomen is bulging, not the fat kind of meat round, but looks very strong round ^^" And note that if the female's body shape has changed like a pear (the lower abdomen is round), the female is probably about to give birth, so be careful and be sure to isolate the males out oh!
. What you need to know before and after the birth.
Nursing a baby is hard work, all the owner can do is to provide a good and proper environment for the mother rat so that she can give birth without any worries.
1. Male rats must be isolated.
Before the birth: male rats will cause nervousness to the mother and may cause her to miscarry.
After birth: male rats can cause the female to feel stressed and may cause her to abandon the breed or kill her offspring. The most important thing is that the female can get pregnant again right after giving birth, but continuous pregnancy and childbirth is a great harm to the female's body, which will shorten her life span and make her mice die easily.
2. Nutritional supplements.
Nutritional supplementation is very important both before and after birth. Breadworms, boiled eggs, animal cheese and other animal proteins can be given appropriately so that the mother can have enough energy to raise her baby rats before and after the birth.
3. Quiet environment.
When a mother rat gives birth to a baby, the environment must be kept quiet. Don't peek at the baby or disturb the mother rat, or the mother rat may abandon the baby or kill the baby. When you find a female giving birth to a baby, please move the cage to a quiet and dark place, and try not to put it in a crowded place or next to other cages. If the weather is not too hot, you can put a piece of cloth over the cage, which will make the mother feel more at ease with her baby! After the mother has given birth, don't rush to change the wood shavings, just wait patiently until the mice open their eyes. At this time, all the owner can do is to maintain a safe environment for the mother mouse, and quietly and without disturbing the mother mouse every day with clean and sufficient feed and water. Disposable chopsticks can be used to handle everything at this time! Never use your hands to directly touch the rats, or anything around them.
4. Mice forgotten halfway.
There are some haphazard mouse mothers who will drop their baby mice halfway and forget to bring them home when they are carrying them, and the baby mice may not be able to find their mothers because they are afraid that the baby mice will catch a cold if they are away from their mothers for too long, so they have to find a way to send them back to their mothers. Don't rush to "catch" the mouse back to its mother, lest the mouse smells like you and the mother doesn't recognize it. Observe the mother to see if she has forgotten about the mouse, and if she doesn't bring the mouse back after a while, remember to roll the mouse back to the mother with chopsticks or fish it back to the mother with a spoon, and don't grab the baby with your hands!
. The growth process of mice.
The growth rate of mice is amazingly fast, and there are different changes every day, but don't disturb the mother just to observe.
1. Newborn.
The newborn mice are reddish all over, can't see the color of the fur, the eyes are only some black (red-eyed mice can't see the color of the eyes), the ears have not yet grown out, at this time the mice can't see, can't hear, it's just like a bright red ball of flesh that can move.
2. One week after birth.
One week after birth, the mouse is still invisible and inaudible, but at this point, the mouse already has fetal hair, so you can tell if it looks like its father or mother.
3. Two weeks after birth.
Two weeks after birth, the mouse's fur color will be more obvious, and at this time in the part of the ear will split a small crack, that is the mouse's ears began to grow symbols, at this time, the mouse can hear some sounds, and the eyes will slowly open (depending on the individual mice, some mice at this time, the eyes have been fully open, and some are still only half-open only), the mouse will be able to hear some of the sounds, and eyes will slowly open. The two-week-old mice will also begin to steal some of the better feed, but at this time is still the mother's milk as the main food Oh.
Two-week-old mice are more active and will often run out to explore on their own, so it's not uncommon to see moms struggling to find their babies.
4. Three weeks after birth.
Three weeks after birth, the mice have become completely rat-like, and because the teeth of the mice have already grown, they often bite the mother when sucking milk, so some mothers will be reluctant to breastfeed at this time, but because the three-week-old mice can basically eat on their own, so don't worry too much about the mother if she doesn't breastfeed.
. One month after birth. The mice will be ready to be separated from the cage when they are one month old. If you don't separate the cages when the babies are older, you may be offended by the mothers, and some of them may even attack the mice.
Bringing the babies away from their mother may seem like a terrible thing to do, but in nature it's quite normal, and in the wild, when the mice are old enough, the mother will kick the babies out of the nest and let them fend for themselves. (*Remember to soak some cereal in milk when the mother is pregnant and when the mice are just weaned, and you can also eat this to increase the nutrition, remember to add milk to the original cereal and microwave it for 3 minutes to make it thick)
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. How to beat the heat.
Rats wear thick fur coats all year round, so in the hot and humid summer, rats can be very sad. Cloud doesn't like to let the rats blow the cold air (occasionally it's okay), because it will reduce the heat resistance of the rats, and even people will have the cold air disease, not to mention the rats! There are many ways to help rats beat the heat, so here are a few for your reference.
1. Replace the mouse house with a ceramic house, the mouse can sleep in it cool.
2. Reduce the indoor temperature, open the windows and doors to increase convection, and turn on electric fans to circulate the air.
3. Put less wood shavings, just put a thin layer.
4. The bottle will be filled with water to the freezer to freeze, placed outside the cage, remember to be careful not to let the water dripping into the cage, the ice bottle will emit cold air, you can make the rat feel powder cool Oh.
5. Take a small glass bottle and put it into the cage with cold water, so that the bottle will be cool and the rats can lean on it to dissipate the heat. The reason for using a glass bottle is that it is less likely to be chewed by the rats and leak water, and it is the glass bottle that has the cooling effect.
6. Put a stone or tile in the cage, and the rat will sleep on it to keep cool, but when choosing a stone or tile, pay attention to the edges of the stone or tile to see if it's too sharp and will cause injury to the rat.
. How to keep warm.
1. Replace the mouse house with a plastic one, which can be replaced with a napkin tube
2. Move the cage to a place where cold winds can't blow.
3. Put more wood shavings, about 3-5 centimeters thick.
4. You can put in napkins, and the rats will make a warm bed for themselves.
5. When the weather is really cold, you can cover a piece of cloth outside the cage to block the cold wind, but be careful not to cover it too tightly to smother the rat
. Cultivate affection when you first arrive.
I think every rat lover has their own set of methods to bring up rats, shishi is just providing some of his own experience to share with you.
At the beginning, Yun will put the new rats in the observation cage for a week, on the one hand, to let the rats get used to the smell, sound and temperature of Yun's house, on the other hand, you can also use this time to train the rats to go to the rat toilet to go to the toilet (please refer to the rat toilet for the training method) and let the rats get used to interacting with me. One thing to keep in mind is to remember to call your rat's name all the time, so that your rat can respond to the name.
Steps to develop affection:
. Rest.
When Mouse comes to your home on the first day, don't be too eager to go and play with him first, as Mouse will be nervous after just changing to a new environment, so let Mouse rest for a day first.
. Habituation . Starting from the second day, feed your rat the feed at a fixed time every day, so that your rat will quickly get used to your hand and flavor. Feeding method, put the feed on the palm of your hand, put your hand quietly into the cage to stop and do not move, let the rat slowly approach, in the rat to eat do not go to startle him Oh, otherwise he will be wary of your hand. In the beginning, the rat may refuse to come close or run away immediately after eating a bite, so don't be in a hurry, take your time!
. Getting close.
Wait until a week later, the rat is used to the environment, you can change the rat to a large cage, then I think the rat should be more accustomed to take something from your hand to eat (bold a little bit of the rat may have dared to climb to the hand), you can also try to let the rat in the hand to eat (that is, with the palm of your hand to support the rat so that he eats in the palm of your hand, but be careful not to let the rat fall to the), the rat can gently eat while you are eating. The rat can eat at the same time you can whisper his name and gently touch his head, remember not to force the rat, if the rat is not willing to or will be afraid of slowly, each rat's personality is different, everything depends on the owner of the self to grasp it!
. We're going to have to get to know each other.
Be sure to get your rat used to the way you call him, like when Cloud would knock on the cage door and call his name before carrying him out, and then let him walk to the cage door and smell my scent before carrying him out. Owners also need to understand the way rats like and dislike, like Yun's family has a rat, to carry him out of the cage, if you do not call him to the door before carrying, he will definitely bite before saying ^^ "But until the rat and the owner can understand each other, trust (like talking about male and female friends ^^ "^"), and each other will definitely be more sweet and sweet yo.
. The more you interact with each other, the more you'll be able to build a relationship.
Once the rat recognizes you, he'll be dead set on it.
Why did the rat bite me? In fact, it is normal for rats to bite people, because you are a huge, unknown object to him, so of course he must be on guard for his own safety, and the only weapon the rat has is that small, sharp teeth.
So don't be sad or angry because you were bitten by a rat, and don't give the rat away or abandon it because of this. It takes time for people to get to know each other, not to mention that the rat is very fond of letting the rat eat things on its hands, such as melons, peanuts, bread worms, which are the most popular food for rats, and usually feeds it by holding it, and it lets the rat wander around in the cloud (pay attention). Don't let the rat fall from the body oh ), so the rat will easily get used to the taste and sound of the cloud.
. Years of rat rat care.
The care of the rat rat is to take very much thought, there is good care, the rat rat can live a long life.
The average lifespan of a rat is about two years, so a rat that is more than one and a half years old is considered a rat. A rat's physical strength deteriorates significantly, and the rat spends most of its time sleeping, hobbling, walking erratically, and biting hard food, so more effort is needed to take care of it.
1. Pay special attention to the heat and warmth, because the rat's adaptability to the environment deteriorates, so the summer and winter seasons should pay special attention to Oh.
2. The rat's teeth will be more and more insufficient force, can not bite open the grain, sunflower seeds, so the rat's food needs to be specially made. shishi will help the rat's teeth are not good for the rat to prepare the star feed + lab rat feed mixed and ground food, and softened with milk to make the rat better to eat, but also will be the sunflower seeds, peanuts and so on, cut into pieces for the rat to eat, and occasionally feed them some nutritional supplements, so that enough nutrients. This is the only way to get enough nutrition. If the rat's teeth are still very healthy, you don't need to help him prepare special feed, just provide more nutritious things to the rat can, but the owner has to carefully observe the rat's eating situation oh, slowly adjust to improve to the best.
3. Because the rat has no physical strength, so all the facilities in the cage are best placed on the plane (ex. food bowl), so as not to let the rat climb up and down.
4. Mice and rats need more love, care and patience from their owners.
Types of Mouse Rats
Husbandman (Roborovski Roborovski Hamster ):
Length: 4-5cm
Weight: 40k
Origin: Mongolia, Heilongjiang
The smallest of the hamster, with a slightly yellowish coat, with a white beard and white eyebrows, rounded ears, and feels like an old grandfather, so called old man, life expectancy is about 3 years. Current price: 30-60 yuan
But most of the market is not purebred, pure to 2-300 yuan
Three lines of wild color, commonly known as the three lines (three lines of Djungarian Djungarian Hamster):
Body length: 8-11cm
Weight: 30-45k
Place of origin: Siberia
The most common type of hamster, does not bite, gentle personality, inexpensive and good quality, for the first time to keep the best . Current price: 15-25 yuan
Silver fox (three lines of Jakaria Dwarf Winter White Russian Hamster):
Length: 8-11cm
Weight: 30-45k
Origin: Siberia
Generally divided into the silver fox with wild color genes, that is, the black articles are more obvious on the back
Silver fox with wild color genes is the most common type of hamster.
There are two types of foxes: those with wild color genes, which have more obvious black articles on their backs
and those with purple genes, which have less obvious articles on their backs, or even all-white ones
Silver foxes have a very low reproduction rate if they are directly mated to silver foxes, and they are currently priced at $40-80
Purple foxes (Dwarf Winter White Russian Hamster):
Body length: 8-11cmWeight: 30-45k
Origin: Artificial cultivation
Fur color is a little lighter than the wild three lines, some can see the stripes, some stripes are very light, the whole gray gray, a little like the home of the mice, huh. Current price: 40-60 yuan
Winter White (three lines of Jakarta Dwarf Winter White Russian Hamster):
Winter with the sunshine will have half of the wild three lines of the color of the coat into white, close to the silver fox color .
So called winter white, the current price: 30-100 yuan range
Pudding (three lines of Jakaria Dwarf Winter White Russian Hamster):
Body length: 8-11cm
Weight: 30-45k
Origin: Artificial cultivation
Fur color for the pudding color is called yellow pudding, there are also fur color for cream is called white pudding, back stripes of orange or gold, pudding and silver fox can breed golden fox, but I seem to be the same thing as the golden fox and the white pudding, due to the number of pudding this species is relatively, so the price is relatively high, the current price: $120-$250 ranging
One line of wild color, commonly known as the first line (Campbells) Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamster):
Body length: 10-12cm
Weight: 20-50k
Origin: Central Asia, Mongolia,
Lifespan: 1 .5-2 years
Everyone thinks that is the hamster in the most irritable character of a kind, but according to my experience of breeding Its price is the cheapest, the current price: 5-10 yuan
Snowball (a line of Campbells Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamster):
Length: 10-12cm
Weight: 20-50k
Origin: Central Asia, Mongolia,
Lifespan: 1 .5-2 years
This is the most common type of hamster in the world. Years
Much like a mouse, just missing a long tail , eyes are red. Current price: $5-20
White Bear (1st line Campbell Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamster):
Length: 10-12cm
Weight: 20-50k
Origin: Central Asia, Mongolia,
Lifespan: 1 .5-2 years
Many People have mistaken their silver foxes with purple barn genes for white bears, current price: 5-20$
In fact, there are 2 differences between them:
1, the eyes of white bears are dark red when you look closely, while silver foxes are black .
2, the white bear's nose is that much shorter than the silver fox.
Black Bear (Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamster):
Length: 10-12cm
Weight: 20-50k
Origin: Central Asia, Mongolia
Lifespan: 1.5-2 years
As the name implies, compared to the white bear. Black bears are black in color
Amber (Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamster):
Body length: 10-12cm
Weight: 20-50k
Origin: Central Asia, Mongolia
Lifespan: 1.5-2 years
Body color: earthy yellow to brownish-yellow. Body color is amber between earthy yellow and tan, eyes are red, current price: $5-10
Flower Spot (Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamster):
Length: 10-12cm
Weight: 20-50k
Origin: Central Asia, Mongolia,
Lifespan: 1 .5-2
Color: amber between earthy yellow and brown, eyes are red.
Lifespan: 1 .5-2 years
It is the most colorful species in the first line, the body is white and amber color between the called amber spotted, sometimes called simply spotted, the eyes are red, the body is white and black between the called panda or known as the cow, the eyes are red, there are black, the current price: 5-10 yuan
Golden Bear (Golden Mouse) Syrian Hamster Mesocricetus auratus ):
Size: 15-20cm Tail length: 5cm
Weight: 200k
Origin: Iran, Pakistan, etc.
There are different varieties of golden rats, with long and short hair
Number is the largest among hamsters. The largest in number and the largest in size.
Hopping mouse (hopping sac mouse)
Body length: 20cm Tail length: 20cm
Origin: Southwestern Africa
Diet: plant-based
Feels like a scaled-down version of the kangaroo rat, and often jumps on its hind legs, with tufts of black hair at the tip of its tail
Besides these, there are also varieties that do not have a hairy tail, or that have a smaller body size.
Breath also dry areas, so do not tolerate moisture and heat, to choose a well-ventilated cage
And they often have to jump, so they need a larger cage.
Imported in small quantities and hard to see in the market.