How to buy myna?

First of all, choose a regular bird shop to buy, and go as soon as the birds arrive, because only in this way can you find good birds and don't take advantage of others. As for the size of the choice, it mainly depends on personal hobbies. I think it is better to choose a young bird that has just grown a little feathers but can't stand well, because the young bird at this time has a weak sense of independence and is more attached to its master when it grows up, and the young bird at this time is healthy and not easy to die. When you go to the bird shop, first look at all the birds, and then talk to the boss to find out the time when myna arrived and the distance she traveled. You can also take this opportunity to observe the situation of birds again and then talk about the price first. Don't bargain after choosing a bird. Being a boss is not stupid. It's strange to reduce the price when you like it, so you must talk about the price before you start choosing birds.

Look at the appearance first, take a rough look (if the bird is too small to see clearly), and the mouth and feet can't be ignored (this is better). Then look at the body embryo and pay attention to whether there are birth defects. Then choose three or so to catch one side as an alternative, give each one a little food (the bird boss usually soaks some), and then lure the bird to open its mouth again. At this time, it is necessary to observe well. First. Look at the size and color of the mouth (the bigger the mouth, the better, and the color should be pink or bright yellow). If the color of the mouth is crimson, it means that the bird may be slightly inflamed, or even red enough to see black, which means that the bird's mouth may be injured (people accidentally get injured when feeding the bird). Unless you are experienced and have a good appearance, it is recommended not to buy these two kinds of birds. Feed the birds after selection, and then talk to the boss for a while. First, we can learn from the experience. Second, you can observe the situation of birds. Third, it can add some physical strength to the re-transportation of birds. If birds have problems, they will appear at this time. $c% '_

Second, give the bird a nest, a clean and odorless carton, and an old towel under it (it is best to expose the towel to the sun for sterilization first), so that the rough surface of the towel can be kept warm and the bird can hold on tight, so that the bird will not become a "splayed leg" in the future. If the bird is dirty, you can gently wipe it with a wet towel, but you are not allowed to take a bath to avoid catching a cold. vG,mB! p。

Third, you can feed the birds with chicken feed. My method is to wash quail eggs, break them up with shells, and then add some chicken feed to make them slightly soft. When the feed can be kneaded into a ball, knead it into a piece the size of a little finger, and then put it in when Xiao Ba opens his mouth. In addition, you must feed a small amount of water before each meal, which not only helps digestion, but also prevents Hachi from choking. Feed 2-3 balls at a time, once every hour or so. Remember to feed water after feeding. As long as the food is clean, it doesn't matter how much water you give. Hachi, like human babies, has the habit of going to bed after eating. At this time, we should do a good job of keeping warm. When the bird just comes back, we can feed some Banlangen in moderation. Z]s)~ *H

Fourth: the skills of feeding water to supplement feed. It is best to feed water with a medical syringe. Take the needle out and clean it, but remember not to spray water directly into Hachi's throat, which will easily choke his throat, otherwise he will be hoarse in the future, so don't blame it for its poor variety. The correct way to feed water is to spray water on Hachi's tongue and let it flow down his throat. As for Hachi's daily supplement, it is best not to feed Hachi too much raw meat before learning to fly. But in order to supplement nutrition, I can feed Xiaoba some vitamins and calcium. Every three days, I grind half a grain of 2 1 jinweita into powder and add it to the feed. You can see Hachi's feathers shining black in about half a month. If you are worried about indigestion, you can also feed Hachi a proper amount of yeast tablets, but not too much, so as to avoid Hachi's diarrhea. Usually one and a half tablets are enough. When Hachi can fly, he can feed a few pieces of lean meat every other day. XyV/:O

Fifth: the daily training of Hachi, call its name before each feeding, then prepare the feed and feed Hachi on the palm of your hand (stand with your arms up when flying in the future). As long as we insist on such training, we can increase the affection between Hachi and his master. _PE4a3F

Sixth, Hachi should be weaned in a cage. In order to keep Hachi in a cage when he grows up, when Hachi can grasp the bar and learn to fly, he should be kept in a cage and trained to eat by himself. First, put some wet feed in the food cup and half a glass of water in the other cup. In order to prevent Hachi from being frightened and get used to living in a cage as soon as possible, it can cover the cage when its owner is away and open the condom regularly every day. 7GV? g UE/t

Seventh: Bathing and flying training for Hachi. Due to the problems of work and space, most birds keep cages and only let them play when they are free. This requires flying training for myna, so that it can learn to obey people's commands. Specific methods: release the bird from the cage when the room is half full and lure it to eat with its favorite food. If it refuses to start, it can be caught in the hand and given food. After training it several times, it will have the habit of standing on its hands and waiting for food, so that it can slowly try to fly in the open air. Training hachi to enter the cage is also very simple. When you come out, you will only be given food, not water. After half an hour, he will definitely be thirsty and look for water to drink. Then you open the cage door and push him in. If so, he will enter the cage several times to find water. Bathing training is easier. When it was young, it was often put in an empty washbasin to adapt to the shape and color of the washbasin. When it can fly, start bathing it. At this time, put it in a washbasin full of water (the depth of water is bad information, one finger is enough). Because I have been used to washbasins since I was a child, I am naturally not afraid. At this time, it only needs to splash a little water on its feet, and it will beat the water by itself because of the nature of birds. Therefore, after two or three times, the clever Hachi will do it himself. It is worth noting that the first time or two to wash the birds should not be too long, and it should not exceed one minute. Don't do it in warm weather and sunny days. Immediately after washing, put the bird in the windless sun to dry. In order not to get sunburned, half of the cage can be shaded, so Hachi can choose where to stand according to his own needs. When its wings and body are dry, you can take it home and rest in the shade for a while, then prepare enough food and water for him and close the cage. From now on, it is purely personal experience, and I hope experts can give me some advice on the shortcomings. As for speech training, this year is the first time I have raised Grade 8. Now they are all too young to speak. Only after training can I talk about my experience and share it with you.