Repost: Ancient harem cosmetics
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First, the "cosmetics" of ancient women
(1) Duan Hua
This makeup method, also known as flowers, face flowers and decals, is a small decoration attached to the eyebrows and face.
As for the origin of flower bud, according to the record quoted from Wu Hou Ji in Song Gaocheng's Miscellaneous Five Elements Book, in the Southern Dynasties, "Princess Shouyang, a woman, had a chapter under the eaves of the temple, and plum blossoms fell on her forehead, which could not be removed. After washing for three days, it fell down, and the maids were very strange and contended for the result. " I don't know why it is called "plum blossom makeup" or "Shouyang makeup".
In the Song Dynasty, plum blossom makeup was still popular. Wang Zao sang in Ode to Drunk Flowers: "There is a gap in the boat curtain, the beauty is half exposed to plum makeup, and Lv Yun is as low as a flower."
It was also in the Tang Dynasty that decals became popular. What is the bud made of? In ancient times, the materials for making flower buds were very rich, including gold foil, paper, fish scales and camellia cakes. The most interesting thing is that even dragonfly wings can be used as flower buds! For example, "Dream of Louis" written in the Song Dynasty said: "In the late Tang Dynasty, the imperial court or the net got dragonflies and loved their delicate green, so they painted their wings with golden pens and made small flowers." It can be seen that in ancient times, women's makeup methods were not only rich, but also unique and eclectic. The colors of flower buds are red, green and yellow. There is a saying in the well-known "Mulan Ci" that "putting yellow on the mirror". In addition to the plum blossom shape, there are all kinds of birds, small fish and ducklings, which are very beautiful and novel.
(2) Lipstick
Lipstick was called oral fat and lip fat in ancient times. The red color of oral fat, painted on the lips, can increase the bright color of oral lips and give people a healthy, young and energetic impression, so it has been loved by women since ancient times. The degree of this kind of love can be seen from Guan Baizhi, a book of Tang Dynasty, which records: "On the 12th, I offered oral fat, facial fat, head cream and perfume bag to the Bachelor of North Gate, and the oral fat was filled with a blue tooth tube." It is written here that oral fat is packed in carved ivory tubes, which shows how precious oral fat is in many cosmetics!
There are many ways to fill your mouth. China is used to taking small mouth as beauty, namely "small cherry mouth". For example, Cen Can, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, said in "Poems of Drunk Fight Ren Mei": "A little peach blossom on your lips."
Tang Chaoyuan and later, due to the influence of Tubo costumes and makeup, there appeared "crying makeup" and "tears makeup", which, as the name implies, turned makeup into crying and was called "contemporary makeup" at that time. The poet Bai Juyi once described in detail in the poem "Contemporary Makeup": "Contemporary makeup comes from all directions of the city and is popular far and near, with no ink on the cheeks and no powder on the cheeks. The lips are black as mud, and the eyebrows are painted low. Black and white makeup is out of its original state and looks like a sad cry. " This kind of makeup is not only unsightly, but also gives people a strange feeling, so it soon goes out of fashion.
Sandalwood was also popular in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and sandalwood was light crimson. Qin Guan, a poet in the Northern Song Dynasty, sang in Nan Ge Zi: "Rub your blue skirt and apricot skirt, lean on the jade fence alone and touch your lips without words." This color of oral fat is still popular until modern times. Of course, whether it is cinnabar or sandalwood, we should choose and use it appropriately according to the different characteristics and conditions of individuals, and we must not pretend to be beautiful.
(3) Fusan
Fu powder is powdered on the face. In ancient China, women used powder for a long time, which has always been the most common way to make up. According to the records of the Tang Dynasty, Tang Huangming gave Yang Guifei's sisters a powder fee of up to one million taels every year! Li Yu, a dramatist in the early Qing Dynasty, had a unique view on the method of assigning points. He thinks that female powder application at that time "tends to be subordinate to the trend, and beautiful women use it to improve their beauty", "white people can make it white" and "adding white on black is to make it black", which clearly reveals the relationship between makeup and aesthetics. What's more interesting is that the ancients also linked makeup methods such as puffing powder with moral cultivation, pointing out that beauty should be combined with cultivation. For example, Cai Yong in the Eastern Han Dynasty thought: "When taking photos and plastering, you must think about the purity of your heart, the sum of your heart when applying powder, the freshness of your heart when adding powder, the smoothness of your heart when using a comb, the righteousness of your heart when you bun, and the sideburns." This view is not only insightful, but also profound.
(4) The front is yellow
Frontal yellow, also called crow yellow, is yellow painted between the foreheads. This kind of makeup is out of use now. It originated in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and prevailed in the Tang Dynasty. According to China Women's Decoration, this decoration has a certain relationship with the popularity of Buddhism. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Buddhism entered its heyday in China. Inspired by the golden lacquer Buddha statue, some women painted their foreheads yellow, which gradually became a common practice. Jian Wendi's "Beauty" in the Southern Dynasties said: "About the yellow energy efficiency month, cutting gold to make stars clever." The yellow mentioned here refers to the makeup method of yellow forehead. When the forehead yellow prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, Wen recited the sentence "Infinite sunset mountain has a forehead yellow" in the poem, and Li Shangyin also wrote: "Princess Shouyang put on makeup when she got married, and the eyebrows in the eight-character palace held the forehead yellow." Niu Monks and Confucians in the Tang Dynasty also described the story of the goddess Zhi Qiong yellowing her forehead. When the forehead yellow was still popular in the Song Dynasty, the poet Peng sang: "There was a woman named Jingmu, and pearls fell on her temples and painted yellow." These all reflect the scenes that ancient women like to have yellow foreheads.
(5) thrush
Thrush is the most popular and common makeup method in China, which was produced in the Warring States Period. Qu Yuan wrote in The Songs of the South: "White and white, black and white, only for Fang Ze." "Black" means using a black thrush. In the Han dynasty, thrush became more and more common, and the more you painted, the better you looked. "Miscellanies of Xijing" wrote: "Sima Xiangru's wife, Wen Jun, has an eyebrow like a distant mountain. She painted a distant eyebrow when she was young." This means drawing your eyebrows long, curved and green, as beautiful as a distant mountain. Later, it was developed to use jade thrush, which was also very popular in the court. In the Song Dynasty, Yan Dao Ji described in "Six Commandments": "Come to Cuimei Palace late and learn from the distant mountains skillfully." "The Story of Mizhuang Terrace" said, "Wei Wudi ordered the imperial court to draw blue eyebrows and eyebrows, which were very long and called fairy makeup." Instead, the use of black eyebrows has become a new thing in the popularity of Cui eyebrows. In China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, it is said that Yang Guifei "wears heavy makeup and black eyebrows". At that time, people regarded this as a new way of makeup, and called it "new makeup". No wonder Xu Ning wrote in his poem: "When the new makeup is thrown away, the six palaces fight for the black eyebrows."
In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the popular thrush was wide and short, shaped like laurel leaves or moth wings. In Yuan Zhen's poem "Don't draw long eyebrows and short eyebrows", and Li He's poem also said that "the new laurel is like a flying moth eyebrow". In order to make the broad eyebrows not appear dull, women will even smudge the color of the eyebrows when drawing them. This phenomenon is called "smudge eyebrows". Another is to draw the eyebrows very thin, which is called "thin eyebrows". Therefore, Bai Juyi has a sentence of "Qingdai Fine Eyebrows" in Shang Yang White-haired Man, and there is also a description of "petals like her face and willow leaves like her eyebrows" in Song of Eternal Sorrow. By the time of Xuanzong in Tang Dynasty, the forms of thrush were more colorful, including Yuanyang eyebrow, Hill eyebrow, Wufeng eyebrow, Sanfeng eyebrow, Beaded eyebrow, Moon eyebrow, Split eyebrow, Smoked eyebrow, Blowing eyebrow and Inverted eyebrow. There are so many paintings on the eyebrows alone, which shows that the ancients have a strong love for beauty.
Second, ancient cosmetic tools.
(1) ancient women's "eyebrow pencil";
It is said that thrush began in the Warring States period. Before there were any specific thrush materials, women burned willow branches and painted them on their eyebrows (strange makeup, preferably modern).
The materials used by ancient women thrush changed with the development of the times.
According to literature, the earliest thrush material is Dai, a black mineral, also known as "Shi Dai".
Before painting, Shi Dai must be ground into powder on the inkstone and then mixed with water. Many Han tombs have found ink stones of the Mohist dynasty, which shows that this cosmetic has been used in the Han Dynasty.
In addition to stone wear, there are bronze wear, bluebird head wear and screw wear.
Copper generation is a chemical substance similar to copper rust. Green finch head is a kind of dark gray thrush material, which was introduced from the western regions in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Mother-of-pearl Dai is a thrush material used by women in Sui and Tang Dynasties, which was produced in Persia. It is a kind of Dai block with various prescribed shapes after processing and manufacturing. When it is used, it can only be dipped in water without grinding. Because its appearance and manufacturing process are similar to those of ink ingots for painting and calligraphy, it is also called "graphite" or "thrush ink".
In the Song Dynasty, thrush ink was more widely used, and women rarely used Shi Dai again.
There are also ways to make thrush ink in the notes of the Song Dynasty. For example, "The Stone Forest" said: "There is a real sesame oil lamp, which is closely rubbed with many lamp holders. Put the oil lamp in the water, light it, cover it with a small device, let the smoke condense and sweep it down. Soak musk deer in less oil three days in advance, pour it into smoke and mix well. The ink can exceed the paint. A method of rotary shearing sesame oil snuff is particularly preferred. This smoked thrush material was euphemistically called "thrush gathers fragrance" in the late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty. After the Yuan Dynasty, women in the court all chose the eyebrow stone of Zhaitang in Mentougou District, west Beijing, and so did the Ming and Qing Dynasties. By the early 1920s, with the spread of western culture, a series of changes had taken place in women's cosmetics in China. Thrush materials, especially rod-shaped eyebrow pencil and chemically modulated black grease, have been used up to now because of their simple use and portability. (2) Fangze Easy-going-Cosmetic Powder
Women in China began to use cosmetic powder at least during the Warring States Period. The oldest cosmetic powder has two components, one is rice flour, and the ancient Chinese characters of powder are separated from rice; There is also a cosmetic powder that turns white lead into mushy facial fat, commonly known as "Hu powder". Because it is made of lead, it is also called "lead China" and "lead powder".
Both powders are applied to the face to keep the skin smooth.
The method of making rice noodles is recorded in Qi Min. The most primitive method of making rice noodles is to fill rice juice in a round rice bowl, make it precipitate, make it into white powder greasy "powder English", and then expose it to the sun. The dried powder can be used for makeup. Because this method is simple, it is widely circulated among the people. Until the Tang and Song Dynasties, people still used this method to make rice noodles.
There is also a kind of fragrant powder, which is made of corn, similar to it, but made with various spices at last. Because corn itself contains a certain viscosity, it is not easy to fall off when coated on the surface. Compared with rice flour, the production technology of lead powder is much more complicated. From the early literature, the so-called lead powder actually contains many chemical elements such as lead, tin, aluminum and zinc. Lead powder originally used for women's makeup has not been dehydrated, so it is mostly paste. Since the Han dynasty, lead powder has been sucked dry and made into powder or solid. Because of its delicate texture, white color and easy preservation, it is deeply loved by women and has replaced the status of rice flour over time.
In addition to simple rice flour and lead powder, there are many famous makeup powders of ancient women. For example, during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Duan Qiaoxiao, a court official, mixed rice flour, Hu powder and sunflower seed juice to synthesize "purple powder".
In the Tang dynasty, the palace made "butterfly-welcoming powder" from fine millet.
In the Song Dynasty, there was a kind of "Jade Girl peach blossom powder" made of gypsum, talc, mussel powder, wax fat, musk deer and motherwort.
In the Ming Dynasty, there were "pearl powder" extracted from white jasmine kernel and "Hosta powder" made of Hosta flower and Hu powder.
In the Qing dynasty, there were "pearl powder" made of pearls and "stone powder" made of fine stones such as talc.
There are also famous producing areas, such as "Hangzhou powder" (also known as official powder) in Zhejiang; "Yang Fanfen" in Jingzhou; Hebei's "fixed powder"; Guilin's "cinnamon powder" and so on, the color of the powder has also increased from the original white to a variety of colors, but also mixed with a variety of precious spices, more attractive. Over the past half century, with the deepening of archaeological work, a large number of cosmetic powders have been unearthed, some in exquisite bowls and some in silk bags. The most distinctive one is the Southern Song Dynasty cosmetic powder unearthed in Fuzhou, Fujian, which is made into powder blocks with specific shapes, such as round, square, quadrilateral, octagonal and sunflower petals. And embossed with concave and convex plum, orchid and lotus patterns.
(3) the colorful word rouge
Rouge is a common cosmetic used by ancient women. There are many ways to write rouge in ancient books, such as "Yan Zhi", "cigarette", "fresh branch", "Yan Zhi" and "E Shi".
This is a red pigment. There is a saying that the real origin of ancient rouge is Yanqi Mountain of Xiongnu, and the name "E Shi" is a kind of address for court women of Xiongnu, which originally refers to the wife of nobility. Because these aristocratic women often decorate their faces with "E Shi", "E Shi" has become synonymous with them.
It is said that the introduction of rouge into the Central Plains is related to Zhang Qian's mission to the Western Regions. The so-called "rouge" is actually a kind of flower called "red and blue". Its petals contain red and yellow pigments. Pick the whole flower after flowering, and then mash it repeatedly in a stone bowl to remove the yellow juice and form a bright red pigment.
There are two kinds of rouge for women's makeup. One is made of silk floss dipped in red and blue flower juice, which is called "Mian Yan Zhi"; The other is processed into small and thin flower pieces, which are called "golden flowers and swallows". Both kinds of rouge can be dried in the shade, and can be applied with a small amount of water.
In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, people added bovine marrow, pig pancreas and other things to this red pigment, making it a dense and lubricated oil. As a result, Yan Zhi was written as "rouge", and "fat" had a real meaning. There is a vivid description of rouge in the forty-four chapters of A Dream of Red Mansions. This rouge "is not a piece, but a small white jade box, which contains a box like rose cream." Baoyu smiled and said,' The things sold in the shop are not clean and the color is thin. This is the best rouge. It is squeezed juice and steamed with toilet water. Just pick a little on the thin hairpin and put it on your lips, which is enough; Melt it with a little water and put it in your palm. It's enough to pat your face. "Pinger's makeup is really bright and abnormal, and her cheeks are sweet."
Besides red and blue, the raw materials for making rouge are crimson, pomegranate, mountain flower and Su Fang wood. Heavy crimson is a kind of crimson dye, its color is relatively thick, not as bright and transparent as red and blue. During the Han and Wei dynasties, it was often used as the material of swallows. Pomegranate flower is also a kind of red pigment, which was often used to dye skirts in Sui and Tang Dynasties, called "pomegranate red skirt", but it can also be used to make rouge.
Mountain flower, similar to pomegranate flower, is a kind of wild plant, which can be used as cosmetic raw material after refining and processing. Su Fangmu, also known as "Sumu", has a long history as a dye, although its color is rather dull. As early as the Wei and Jin Dynasties, it was a major red dye.
Due to the popularity of rouge, after the Han Dynasty, the number of feminine red makeup increased day by day and lasted for a long time. Judging from a large number of literature records and image data, in ancient times, women often used both powder and powder in makeup, while rouge alone was rare. Specific methods can be divided into three types:
1. Before make-up, mix rouge with lead powder to make it reddish brown, that is, pink, and then apply it directly on the cheeks. Because it has been adjusted into a color before dressing, the color is relatively uniform, and the color of the whole face is relatively uniform, which can give people a solemn and quiet feeling, so it is mostly used for adult women;
2. Apply white powder first, then rouge. The position of rouge is often concentrated on the cheeks, so the cheeks are mostly red, while the forehead, nose and chin are white. China's ancient traditional painting techniques are called "Three Whites", which is based on this makeup method (visible in Tang Yin's paintings, most women in the paintings make up like this). In terms of image, this makeup style is often used by young people, which is found in history books.
Apply a layer of rouge on your face first, and then gently cover it with white powder. Due to the different degrees of color use, the names are also different. Rich colors are called "drunken makeup" and lighter colors are called "Fei Xia makeup".
Third, the cosmetics used by ancient harem beauties.
Beauty is just a wars of the roses.
It is said that Emperor Yang Di, the most famous prodigal son and bad king. He likes to wander around in dragon boats. Thousands of beautiful and long-white women are selected from each ship. They are called "temple girls", clutching the carved gold plate with both hands. One day, Yang Di took a fancy to a maid-in-waiting, Wu Jiangxian, who was fascinated by her flexibility and beauty and wanted to promote her to be her mother-in-law. Unexpectedly, she had married off. Yang Di was very disappointed and called her "Mrs. Kongtong". The emperor's hobbies are really extensive and unprincipled. He teaches all kinds of things, from the concubines of old people to the wives of women with the lowest status, to the little girls who are too ashamed to laugh, as long as they are beautiful enough. Because Wu Jiangxian painted her eyebrows like moths, the harem beauties competed to imitate them. Imperial secretary distributes five kinds of snails every day, which are called "moth green". Spironolactone is produced in Persia, and each one is worth ten gold. Emperor Yang Di always leans against the sun curtain and looks at Wu Jiangxian for a long time, saying, "As the ancients said,' Beauty can be eaten'. People like Jiang Xian can really satisfy their hunger. "Another beauty who wastes people's money is Sun Quan's son and his beloved wife, Mrs. Sun. Sun He often holds Mrs. Sun in her lap. One night, the moonlight was bright. Inadvertently, the jade in his hand hurt Mrs. Sun's cheek and her face was covered with blood. Sun He called the doctor and ordered them not to leave any scars. According to the doctor, it is easy to stop bleeding. If you don't leave a scar, you must mix it with white otter meat, jade slices and amber slices, and it will be effective if you apply it frequently. Sun He offered a reward to the world, and some people offered white otter bone marrow as a reward of thousands of dollars. An old fisherman on the Fuchun River said: Every year when offering fish, white otters will fight for their spouses. The bones of dead otters are hidden in caves. Although there is no bone marrow in them, they can be crushed and mixed with jade powder to remove scars. Hearing this, Sun He ordered the fisherman to salvage some otter bones, jade chips and amber powder to make ointment. As a result, more expensive amber powder was used. After Mrs. Deng painted it, she left reddish spots on her cheeks, which made her look even more beautiful. When the concubines in the harem saw it, they all used Danzhi to point a small spot on their cheeks, which became a custom. Who is asking why? Why does Guo Jing love Huang Rong and not Hua Zheng? Why does Chen Jialuo love Princess Xiangxiang instead of Huo Qingtong? Why did Yang Guo love the little dragon girl but not Guo Xiang, Guo Fu, Cheng Ying, Lu Wushuang, Gong Sunlue and Ye Luyan? Because they are not as beautiful as the former. Angels love beauty, men love beauty. Jane Austen described her heroine Catherine in Nojue Lan Temple. " What clothes she wears and what hairstyle she combs at the meeting has become her biggest worry. "Woman, who is not. The blue chip is yours, the red skirt is mine, my career is with you, and my clothes are wrapped around me. It is the same at all times and in all countries.
Fourth, ancient cosmetics and makeup.
(1) eye makeup
Since ancient times, people have paid great attention to make-up in order to protect their bodies or improve their appearance. In primitive times, people used to smear animal fat, oil, soil and loess on their skin to keep out the cold, prevent heatstroke and prevent insect bites. At that time, human beings lived in vast virgin forests. In order to prevent endemic diseases, they are also keen to engage in superstitious spells to drive away evil spirits. Whenever people hold a sacrificial ceremony, they have to put on makeup.
In ancient Egypt, in order to prevent heat and dry skin, people often applied sesame oil and oily ointment to their skin. In addition, the ancient Egyptians also liked eye makeup, that is, painting green, black or blue pigments on the upper and lower eyelids. It is said that this is to prevent trachoma, flies (there is a kind of flies that can fly into the eyes to lay eggs in ancient tropics) and flying insects from invading, and also to keep out the scorching sun and disinfect. Therefore, when preparing this kind of coated cosmetics, blue-green malachite powder with bactericidal effect is mixed. Later, people began to pay attention to the color of this kind of cosmetics, especially liked the paint made of light black manganese dioxide, and even chose green resin.
According to the research and analysis of ancient mummies, it is found that the upper eyelid of the ancients was painted with black pigment and the lower eyelid was painted with blue-green pigment. The main component of this black pigment is lead sulfide, and the main component of blue-green pigment is malachite (containing a lot of copper sulfate).
In the Middle East, women have long had the custom of painting their eyes blue and black. Today, in some Islamic countries, people can still occasionally see women with heavy makeup around their eyes through thin veils. In ancient Greece, people first painted eyelashes with smoked black, and then painted eyelashes with yellow and white natural rubber paste. At that time, women also liked to extract red dye from henna and apply it to their lips and cheeks. (2) Eyebrows and lip makeup
According to records, Zhou Wang loves to dye his wife's nails and make up with solidified flower juice. Because this kind of cosmetics originated from Yan State at the earliest, later people called it "Yan Zhi".
As early as the Han Dynasty, lipstick was widely used by women in China. More than 2000 years ago, in the lacquerware dressing box unearthed from the No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha, besides locks of hair, combs and powder, swallow fat was also found.
Eyebrow pencil, called Dai in ancient times, has a long history. According to documents, Zhang Chang, the governor of Kyoto who served Xuan Di, Emperor Gaozu, loved to paint his wife with blackbirds. At the beginning of the post-Han Dynasty, women in Chang 'an area painted "wide eyebrows", and blue eyebrow pencil was used at that time. In the Tang Dynasty, it was popular to draw moth whiskers (tentacles) eyebrows.
"Red makeup", "red face" and "red face" were also popular in the Tang Dynasty, which means that women apply white powder and then red rouge to their faces before making up. According to legend, Yang Guifei burst into tears when she went to the harem to say goodbye to her parents. When she got on the bus, the tears on her face were frozen into thin red ice because of the cold weather! ..... In addition, there is an interesting legend. Because of her plump figure, the imperial concubine was panting and sweating in midsummer. Every time she wipes her face with a handkerchief, her face turns red.
The great poet of the Tang Dynasty also wrote a poem "Contemporary Makeup", which described the makeup techniques that were popular among Chang 'an women at that time, such as applying black oil to their lips (called "black cream lips") and white powder to their faces.
In 60 1 year, Korean monks spread lipstick to Japan, so all the fairies in the Lucky Fairy Picture were wearing lipstick. However, Japanese women popularized lipstick makeup at the beginning of18th century. At that time, in order to make lipstick thicker, women always put ink on their lips before applying lipstick. (3) Dot mole and beard makeup.
/kloc-At the end of 0/7th century, Dot mole's makeup technology became popular among Parisian women. The shape of nevus is divided into star, crescent and circle. Generally, moles are dotted on the forehead, nose, cheeks and lips, but some are hidden in the abdomen, abdomen and legs. Moles are black and red.
According to the propaganda of Saint Denis Street Dot mole Store 1692, the meaning of a mole varies with the location of the mole. For example, the mole on the forehead symbolizes the queen; Pointing at both sides of the nostril shows shame; Click on the eye box to show enthusiasm; Dot mole, whose lips are very close, shows that she loves kissing and is a woman who is not single-minded in love; A mole on the dimple indicates that the owner is a cheerful woman. Of course, these meanings are all imagined.
In addition, men at that time were also "unwilling to lag behind" and it was fashionable to grow beards. This custom once made a lot of noise in society.
It is said that because King Louis XIII of France loved to grow a beard, fashionable men followed suit and grew this kind of beard with the style of a king.
Surprisingly, some men are ingenious and love to apply thick hair cream to their beards, making them hard like wire. In addition, there are fashionable men who love to decorate colorful fake belts at both ends of their beards, and some even use special beard covers, which are beautiful, amazing and jaw-dropping. (4) Perfume and sesame oil are hot
Like ancient India, women in ancient Europe and Asia often used makeup to eliminate sweat and body odor for comfort and attraction. According to the book Egyptian Medicine, the ladies of ancient princes and nobles often used an oil with aromatic substances as cosmetics. At that time, simple distillation was invented to extract sesame oil, but volatile perfume was not invented. This oily sesame oil is added with spices such as musk, Long Xianxiang or myrrh, and the petals of jasmine and saffron are distilled to extract the essence. In ancient Greece and Rome, people dropped perfume into bath water and scrubbed their bodies with sponges soaked in this washing liquid. Ancient China and Japanese loved to use incense. Some women put Long Xianxiang or musk in their private parts.
/kloc-in the 6th century, because Columbus and others discovered the new continent, many newly discovered spices were brought back to Europe, such as cocoa, balsam from Peru, and Hualani spices. At that time, people were superstitious that perfume and sesame oil (especially those containing musk and dragon saliva) could prevent syphilis, so a wave of perfume and sesame oil was quickly set off in society. At that time, a businessman in Florence, Italy, shipped imported spices to Paris for sale and made a fortune. Especially in the18th century, when King Louis ruled France, the sales of spices were huge, and even women's foot washing water had to be mixed with perfume. It is said that at that time, the ladies of Versailles also used a so-called "fart-removing perfume", which was full of fun. Louis XIV's make-up
/kloc-At the beginning of the 8th century, King Louis XIV of France ruled France, which was called the Rococo Age. It is said that the king would rather shave off his beautiful chestnut blonde curls, put on an "oval wig" and paint his face with red and white powder for beauty. Other princes and nobles in the court also like painting and wearing shoulder-length wigs. As for the king's favorites, concubines and ladies-in-waiting, they have made great efforts in makeup. They sprinkle perfume on their bodies like water to attract men.
Bath beauty is also the goal pursued by those rich men and women. At that time, the most popular bathing beauty method was to bathe with calf's milk and rub and massage the skin with distilled water, grape juice or lemon juice of lily, water lily and tofu to achieve the purpose of whitening. Because at that time, only people with white skin had aristocratic blood.
According to records, the daily beauty schedule of the then king's concubine, Mrs. montes Bond, stipulated that there should be 2-3 hours of makeup time in bed. They rub their skin with perfume, powder and sesame oil to keep their elegant fragrance for a long time, and then coat their bodies with a thick layer of white powder.
However, lipstick and powder at that time were made of lead, tin, sulfur and mercury. Long-term use of this lipstick and thick makeup powder will harden the skin.
Five, the makeup of ancient women
Nowadays, women seem to be born with beauty and refuse to recognize it with a touch of powder. "No one can see that I have rubbed powder!" Women in the Tang Dynasty also had such vanity. They try their best to rub lead powder and ground rice on their faces, whether it is chronic lead poisoning or pimples. Applying thick and lubricated grease to such a thick foundation will result in "a basin of red mud soup for washing your face". Wang Jian's Gong Ci records that a maid-in-waiting "went back to the courtyard to wash her face and poured red mud into a golden flowerpot".
The work cost is so high that many people are reluctant to take off their makeup. The word "leaving makeup" is often used in Tang poetry. This is what the so-called "red makeup for ladies-in-waiting" refers to. Wen Tingyun said that a disgruntled woman is "infinitely yellow, and her makeup is hidden from the screen." When I meet peony, I will leave you temporarily. "I won't take off my makeup unless you come back to see me! Think about a woman who doesn't wash her face for a month, and the threat is no less than a hunger strike!
There are two main types of eyebrows in the Tang Dynasty: slender "moth eyebrows" and broad "broad eyebrows". In the late Tang Xuanzong, Yang Guifei used black smoke to draw eyebrows. "As soon as the new makeup is thrown away, the sixth palace is fighting for thrush with black smoke." The whole country is learning Guo's new beauty method, and as a result, the indigo naturalis and charcoal strips in beauty shops are unsalable.
Soon after, the palace invented a kind of "blood halo makeup", which is to apply three or four red and purple stripes to the shaved eyebrows, and then apply them with your fingers until they melt and look bloody. In today's fashion world, only Faye Wong dared to wear "blood dizzy makeup", which was actually very popular in the Tang Dynasty, forcing those vendors who had accumulated dozens of tons of Chinese ink cigarettes to switch to selling charcoal Weng.
During the Yuanhe period, the makeup changed again. "There is no ink on the cheeks and no powder on the face." The lips are black as mud, and the eyebrows are painted low. A round face is not like a skull, and a red face is not dizzy. "Bai Juyi's" Contemporary Makeup "became the fashion release of Yuan He's popular makeup one summer-his face was painted with ochre, his lips were painted with black mud, and his spine was towering. Now even Faye Wong doesn't have the courage to make this kind of "sad makeup", which is popular all over the country again.
Tubo people paint their cheeks with ochre every day, saying that it can ward off evil spirits, and because of the lack of oxygen on the plateau, their lips have always been black, not painted with "black ointment." According to Tibetan literature, after Princess Wencheng arrived in Tubo, she thought that "ochre makeup" was harmful to health, which was really a vulgar habit. Therefore, she suggested that Songtsan Gampo order the abolition of this custom, and the Tubo people were even very grateful to Princess Wencheng for making an exception for them. This reflects the self-righteousness and ignorance of people today. "Ochre makeup" was not broken in Tubo, but spread from Hezhou under Tubo occupation to Chang 'an.
Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture in Gansu Province was called "Hezhou" in the Tang Dynasty. During the Anshi Rebellion, Hezhou and Hexi Corridor were occupied by Tubo, so the Silk Road was cut off. Tubo forced all the Tang people to obey their living habits, put on clothes, felt and fur, opened their skirts on the left and painted their faces with ochre. More than a hundred years have passed, and the Tang people in Hehuang area are no different from the Tubo people. Many children have learned Tubo, and their concept of Han nationality is already very weak. Si Kongtu, a poet in the middle Tang Dynasty, passed by here and saw that "the man did his best in Hull, but cursed the Han people in Chengtou." ("Hehuang Love")
The Tang Empire regarded the capture of Hezhou by Tubo as a great shame and always wanted to recover Hezhou. However, the popular makeup of Tubo turned to the Tang Dynasty. What a surprise!