Let's briefly introduce the modeling characteristics of fabrics with different materials and their application in fashion design.
1. Soft fabrics Soft fabrics are generally light and thin, with good drapability, smooth modeling lines and naturally stretched clothing contours. Soft fabrics mainly include knitted fabrics and silk fabrics with dispersed fabric structure, as well as soft and light linen fabrics. Soft knitted fabrics often adopt linear and concise modeling to reflect the beautiful curves of human body in clothing design; Silk, linen and other fabrics often appear in loose and wrinkled shapes, showing the sense of flow of fabric lines.
2. Cool fabric. Cool fabrics have clear lines and three-dimensional sense, which can form a full clothing outline. There are cotton cloth, polyester cotton cloth, corduroy, linen cloth and various medium-thick woolen cloth and chemical fiber fabrics. These fabrics can be used in designs that highlight the accuracy of clothing modeling, such as suits and suits.
3. Smooth fabric Smooth fabric has a smooth surface, can reflect light and has a sense of light. This kind of fabric includes satin fabric. Most commonly used in evening dresses or stage costumes, it produces a gorgeous and dazzling strong visual effect. Smooth fabrics have a wide range of modeling freedom in the performance of dresses, which can have simple design or exaggerated modeling methods.
4. Heavy fabrics Heavy fabrics are thick and scraped, which can produce stable modeling effects, including various thick woolen fabrics and quilted fabrics. Its fabric has a sense of body expansion, so it is not suitable to use too much pleating and stacking. In design, A-type and H-type shapes are the most suitable.
5. Transparent fabrics Transparent fabrics are light and transparent, with elegant and mysterious artistic effects. Including cotton, silk and chemical fiber fabrics, such as georgette, satin silk and chemical fiber lace. In order to show the transparency of fabrics, H-shaped and frustum-shaped designs with natural and full lines are often adopted.
Below, briefly introduce the characteristics of common clothing fabrics.
1, cotton cloth
Is the floorboard of all kinds of cotton textiles. Mostly used to make fashion, casual wear, underwear and shirts. Its advantages are easy to keep warm, soft and close-fitting, moisture absorption and air permeability. Its disadvantage is that it is easy to shrink and wrinkle, and its appearance is not crisp and beautiful, so it must be ironed often when wearing it.
2. Flax
It is a kind of cloth made of hemp, flax, ramie, jute, sisal, banana and other hemp plant fibers. Generally used to make casual clothes and work clothes, now it is also used to make ordinary summer clothes. Its advantages are extremely high strength, good hygroscopicity, thermal conductivity and air permeability. Its disadvantages are uncomfortable to wear and rough and stiff appearance.
3. Silk
It is the general name of all kinds of silk fabrics woven from silk. Like cotton cloth, it has many varieties and different personalities. It can be used to make all kinds of clothes, especially women's clothes. Its advantages are light, healthy, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, shiny, elegant and comfortable. Its disadvantages are easy to wrinkle, easy to absorb, not strong enough and fast fading.
4. woolen cloth
Also known as wool, it is the floorboard of all kinds of fabrics made of wool and cashmere. Usually suitable for making formal and high-grade clothes such as dresses, suits and coats. Its advantages are wrinkle resistance, wear resistance, soft feel, elegance, flexibility and warmth. Its main disadvantage is that it is difficult to wash and is not suitable for summer clothes.
5. Leather
This is a tanned animal fur fabric. Mostly used to make fashion and winter clothes. It can also be divided into two categories: one is leather, that is, leather that has been depilated. The second kind is fur, which is treated leather with fur. Its advantages are lightness, warmth and elegance. Its disadvantages are high price, high requirements for storage and care, and it is not suitable for popularization.
6. Chemical fiber
It is short for chemical fiber. This is a fiber textile made of polymer. Usually divided into two categories: man-made fibers and synthetic fibers. Their advantages are bright colors, soft texture, crisp drape, smoothness and comfort. Their disadvantages are poor wear resistance, heat resistance, hygroscopicity and air permeability, easy to deform when heated and easy to generate static electricity. Although it can be used to make all kinds of clothes, the overall grade is not high and it is difficult to be elegant.
Step 7 mix
It is a fabric made of natural fibers and chemical fibers in a certain proportion, which can be used to make all kinds of clothes. Its advantages are that it not only absorbs the respective advantages of cotton, hemp, silk, wool and chemical fiber, but also avoids their respective disadvantages as much as possible, and its value is relatively cheap, so it is very popular.
Section 1 Identification of Clothing Fabric Components
The simple method to identify the composition of clothing fabric is combustion method. The method is to draw a thread of cloth yarn containing warp and weft from the seam edge of the garment, ignite it with fire, observe the state of the burning flame, smell the smell of the cloth yarn after burning, see the residue after burning, and judge whether it is consistent with the fabric composition marked on the durability label of the garment, so as to distinguish the authenticity of the fabric composition.
I. Cotton fiber and hemp fiber
Cotton fiber and hemp fiber burn immediately near the flame, burning quickly, with yellow flame and blue smoke. The difference between the smell of burning and the ashes after burning is that cotton burns with paper flavor and marijuana burns with plant ash flavor; After burning, cotton has little powder ash, which is black or gray, while hemp produces a little gray powder ash.
Second, wool fiber and silk.
Hair smokes when it meets fire, bubbles when it burns, and burns slowly, giving off the burning smell of burnt hair. Most of the ashes after burning are shiny black spherical particles, which will be broken when a finger is pressed. Silk shrinks into a ball when it meets fire, and the burning speed is slow, accompanied by hissing, giving off the smell of burning hair. After burning, dark brown spherical ash is formed, which will be broken by hand twisting.
Three, nylon and polyester
Polyamide fiber, nylon in scientific name, quickly curls and melts into white gel when it is close to the flame, and drops and bubbles when it melts in the flame. When burning, it is difficult to continue burning without flame, emitting celery flavor, and the light brown melt is not easy to grind after cooling. Polyester fiber, the scientific name of polyester fiber, is easy to ignite and melt near the flame. When burning, it emits black smoke while melting, showing a yellow flame and emitting an aromatic smell. After burning, the ash is a dark brown lump that can be crushed with your fingers.
Four. Acrylic fiber and polypropylene fiber
Polyacrylonitrile fiber, the scientific name of acrylic fiber, softens and melts when it meets fire, and emits black smoke and white flame after fire. After leaving the flame, it burns quickly, giving off the bitter taste of burnt meat. The ash after burning is an irregular black block, which is fragile by hand twisting. Polypropylene fiber, the scientific name of polypropylene fiber, is flammable when it melts near the flame. It burns slowly away from the fire, emitting black smoke. The upper end of the flame is yellow and the lower end is blue, giving off a smell of oil. After burning, the ash is hard, light yellow-brown particles and fragile by hand twisting.
Verbs (abbreviation for verb) vinylon and chloroprene
Polyvinyl formal fiber, the scientific name of vinylon, is not easy to ignite and melts and shrinks near the flame. When it burns, there is a little flame at the top. When all the fibers melt into gel, the flame becomes bigger, thick black smoke comes out, and there is a bitter taste. After burning, small black beads will be left, which can be crushed with your fingers. The scientific name of PVC fiber is PVC fiber, which is difficult to burn. It goes out immediately after leaving the fire. The flame is yellow, and the lower end is green and white smoke, emitting pungent, pungent and sour taste. The burnt ash is dark brown and irregular, which is not easy to be broken by fingers.
Six, spandex and fluorine fiber
Polyurethane fiber, scientific name spandex, burns when it melts near a fire. When it burns, the flame is blue. When it left the fire, it continued to burn, emitting a special pungent smell. The burnt ash is soft and fluffy black ash. The scientific name of fluorine fiber is polytetrafluoroethylene fiber, and ISO organization calls it fluorite fiber. It only melts near the flame, but it is difficult to ignite and does not burn. The edge flame is blue-green carbonization, melting and decomposition, and the gas is toxic. The melt is hard round black beads. In the textile industry, fluorine fiber is often used to make high-performance sewing thread.
Seven. Viscose fiber and cuprammonia fiber
Viscose fiber is flammable, burning fast, the flame is yellow, giving off the smell of burning paper. After burning, the ash is less, smooth and twisted, and it is light gray or gray-white fine powder. Copper ammonia fiber, commonly known as tiger kapok, burns near flame, with fast burning speed, yellow flame and acid ester. There is little ash after burning, only a small amount of gray-black ash.
Section 2 Identification of Pure Wool Fabric
Pure wool fabric is natural and soft in color, and has good thermal insulation effect. It is the first choice for making high-grade suits and coats. But now there are more and more wool-like fabrics. With the improvement of textile processing, it has reached a level that is difficult for most customers to identify, but the color, warmth and hand feel are far less than pure wool fabrics. Here are several ways to identify pure wool fabrics for your reference when choosing clothes and fabrics.
First, touch. Pure wool fabrics usually feel smooth, long hair fabrics feel smooth along the wool, and the anti-wool has a tingling sensation. And blended or pure chemical fiber products, some are not soft, some are too soft and loose, and have a sticky feeling.
Second, look at the color. The color of pure wool fabric is naturally soft and bright, and there is no old feeling. In contrast, blended or pure chemical fiber fabrics have a dark luster or a sense of flashing color.
Third, look at flexibility. Hold the object tightly with your hands, and then let it go immediately to see the elasticity of the cloth. Pure wool fabric has high resilience and quick recovery, while blended or chemical fiber products have poor wrinkle resistance, and most of them have obvious wrinkles or slow recovery.
Fourth, identification by combustion method. Take a bunch of yarn and burn it. Pure wool fiber smells like burning hair, and chemical fiber fabric smells like burning plastic. The harder the particles are, the more chemical fiber components there are.
Five, single root identification. Under the microscope, the hair of all animals is scaly. If it is a long-haired fabric, as long as you rub a hair a few times, it will move up and down, as shown in the above picture (in order to master this skill, you can do an experiment with a hair first). If it is a common fabric, take a yarn, cut it into two pieces of 2 cm, and break it into fibers. Rub it in your palm four or five times to see if they will move.
Section 4 Introduction to Silk
Silk fabrics are generally divided into two categories: silk and silk-like fabrics. Silk fabrics are all labeled, so how to identify the digital code on the label? These figures have five digits. The first digit represents the raw materials used in the goods; The second digit represents the fabric structure of the goods, followed by the serial number of the goods. Before this number, the place of origin of goods was also indicated by capitalized English letters. From the serial number of silk products, the raw materials and origin of the products can be identified.
Silk raw material code: "1" stands for real silk, including mulberry silk, mulberry tussah interwoven varieties, double palace silk and mulberry silk, which account for more than 50% of mulberry silk; "2" stands for synthetic fiber; "3" stands for the blend of natural fiber and short fiber; "4" stands for tussah silk; "5" stands for rayon; "6" stands for filament interweaving of two or more raw materials, or filament interweaving of short silk size; "7" means quilt cover.
Code of origin of silk products: B is Beijing, C is Sichuan, D is Liaoning, E is Hubei, G is Guangdong, H is Zhejiang, J is Jiangxi, K is Jiangsu, M is Fujian, N is Guangxi, Q is Shaanxi, S is Shanghai, T is Tianjin, V is Henan, W is Anhui and X is Hunan.