Popular in ethnic minority areas or nomadic robes, generally more tightly fitted to facilitate riding and shooting or other intense activities, this clothing style more than the use of left-overlapping, narrow-sleeved, the robe is more modest. Historically, the Han people have also been adopted many times this narrow fit robe style, Zhao Wuling King of the implementation of the Hu riding is a typical example. The Tang Dynasty Hu clothing was also popular for a while, Hu clothing in the Tang Kaiyuan, Tianbao years and Hu makeup, Hu ride, Hu music with the people tend to worship, can be counted as an exotic culture of a large area of popularity example, belonging to the street of Chang'an that year's "imported goods". In the Liao, Jin, Yuan and the Qing Dynasty and other minority regimes, fitted robes have once played a leading role in the dress, although they are experiencing or showing the process or trend of becoming broad. Since the Qing Dynasty was the longest and more stable, the robe can be considered as a typical costume.
In the first year of the Shunzhi era (1644 AD), Emperor Shizu of the Qing Dynasty led his troops to enter the country, set the capital at Beijing, and then unified the whole country. With the initial stabilization of the regime, began to enforce the implementation of clothing reform, set off a powerful wave of pheasants hair and easy to dress, the strictness of the law of life, there is a "head, not hair, hair, not head" said. So far, the traditional crown and clothes were almost completely prohibited to wear, and the clothing system of the thousands of years of tradition has only been retained in the Han women's home dress. Celebration occasions regardless of men and women have to wear robes, all kinds of robes and costumes have a variety of names, there is a robe, dragon robe, python robe and regular dress robe and so on. From the meaning of the word solution, cheongsam refers to cheongsam (both men and women) robes, but only the eight banners of women wear daily robes with the later cheongsam has a blood relationship, used as a dress robe, python robes, etc. Customarily they are not categorized as "cheongsam" category. Qing rulers emphasized Manchu riding, trying to maintain its inherent customs and ways of life, on the one hand, to assimilate the Han Chinese with Manchu clothing, while Manchu and Mongolian women are strictly prohibited to imitate the Han attire, from the top of the rule, the Jiaqing years repeatedly issued a ban on Manchu women are prohibited to imitate the Han Chinese women's attire of the prevailing wind, it can be seen. To the late Qing Dynasty, there are also Han women imitate Manchu attire. Manchu-Chinese women's clothing styles quietly intermingled, so that the difference between the two sides of the dress is decreasing, and then became the prelude to the popularity of the cheongsam across the country.
Late in the Qing Dynasty, the long gowns worn by women of the flag, the body is wide, the modeling lines are straight and hard, the length of the garment to the ankle. "Yuanbao collar" is very common, the collar high cover the cheeks touched the ear, robe body more embroidered with various colors and patterns, collar, sleeves, lapel, according to have multiple wide piping. To Xianfeng, Tongzhi years, inlaid roll to reach the peak period, some even? The whole piece of clothing with lace rolled, so that it is almost difficult to recognize the original material. Flag woman robe decoration of the tedious, several to the peak of the situation. At this time the Qing dynasty is faltering unsustainable, the Qing court internal and external difficulties, the national power is declining. Imperialist ships and cannons broke through the closed door of the Qing Dynasty. In order to save the country, the foreign affairs faction of the Qing court put forward the strategy of "secondary school as the body, western learning as the use", sent a large number of foreign students to study abroad, and the army also changed to the new army. In the Chinese students and soldiers were the first to appear in the Western-style students, drill clothes, drill caps and Western-style uniforms, hats. The importation of foreign clothes provided another reference system for judging beauty, which directly affected the change of the social concept of dress. In the future, cheongsam evolved into a new style that integrates the East and the West, and the change of its influence by the West can be said to be the beginning of this.
The 1911 Xinhai Revolution, which overthrew the last feudal dynasty in China's history, cleared the political obstacles to the popularization of Western-style clothing in China, and at the same time threw aside the traditionally harsh concepts of etiquette and decency, and lifted all the shackles of the rigid hierarchy of the clothing system. The free change of clothing to civilianization and internationalization has come to fruition, and the cheongsam has thus removed the heavy burden of tradition. Due to the demise of the Manchu ruling regime, the cheongsam at this time very few wearers. Western-style Chinese dress up bustling and everywhere. The old-style cheongsam robes were abandoned, the new cheongsam began to brew in the chaotic makeup.
This time the center of fashion has long been moved to Shanghai by the Su, Yang. The opening of the commercial port of Shanghai, China and the foreign side, five parties living together, become a place of extravagance and prosperity in Shanghai. Shanghai is also the town of women seeking liberation. Missionaries, merchants, revolutionaries competing to establish women's schools, set off a wave of feminist movement, seeking liberation of the social climate cleansing the dress and makeup on the stereotypes. Clothing decoration swept away the Qing Dynasty style of ornamentation, tends to be simple, and the color tone to strive for elegant, focusing on the embodiment of the natural beauty of women. The cheongsam initially appeared in the form of a vest, which was as long as the back of the foot and was added to the short jacket. Later, the long vest was changed into a sleeved style, which became the prototype of the new cheongsam. It is said that female students in Shanghai, who were the first to take advantage of the trend, were the initiators of the popularity of cheongsam. At that time, the female students as the representative of intellectual women, become the ideal image of society, they are the symbol of civilization, the vanguard of fashion, and even social celebrities, greenhouse girls and other fashionable characters have been dressed up as female students. 30s and 40s is the cheongsam's heyday, and its basic silhouette has reached maturity. After the Xinhai Revolution, the new cheongsam became popular during the Northern Expeditionary War, which was different from the cheongsam's robe, and the improved cheongsam that appeared in the late 30's drew on Western cutting methods to make the robe more tailored and fitted, which will be described in detail in the following chapters. Although the cheongsam was born out of the Qing dynasty, it is different from the old system and has become the standard garment for modern Chinese women, which incorporates both Western and Chinese dress characteristics.
Cheongsam and Han women's dress
The cheongsam, as a woman's dress, has a close relationship with the cheongsam. The so-called cheongsam refers to the female members of a cheongsam family; and cheongsam is the name given to those who were organized into the Eight Banners during the Qing Dynasty. The Eight Banners of the Qing Dynasty were composed of Manchu as the main body, and incorporated other ethnic groups such as Han Chinese and Mongolians. In addition to the royal family of the Qing Dynasty Aisin Gioro, Gioro, the eight banners also include eight banners of Manchuria, eight banners of Mongolia and eight banners of the Han army. Eight banners of Han army and eight banners of Mongolia respectively by the subordinate Han and Mongolian composition. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, there were 260,000 Han army, which was three times as many as the sum of Eight Banners Manchuria and Eight Banners Mongolia. Therefore, the Banners were not only Manchu, but could also be Mongolian or Han. In this way, it would be inaccurate to define the cheongsam as a garment worn by the Manchus. The Manchus are an ethnic minority living in the north, specializing in fishing and hunting and nomadic, they wore robes open on all sides of the right, there are buttons and trips to bind the waistband, easy to take off and keep warm, very suitable for their way of life. Later attached to their Han Chinese and Mongolians also adopted this style of clothing. At the end of the Ming and early Qing dynasties, the eight banners system gradually established, the flag's robes have changed and developed, with the early style of Manchuria is also different, this time the flag woman wore the robe can be said to be the real cheongsam? predecessor, to the Republic of China to become a modern sense of the cheongsam, known as the new cheongsam or new-style cheongsam. Banner women's robes and Han Chinese women's two cuts of attire, in the early Qing Dynasty there is a clear difference.
Cheongsam origin date cheongsam as a member of the big family of robes, its origin is thought to be traced back to the Spring and Autumn and Warring States period of the deep clothes.
The cheongsam's robe and the cheongsam date cheongsam is not a fixed form, but there is a process of change and development. The cheongsam is regarded as the cheongsam's robe or the cheongsam's robe, although it seems to be no big mistake, but inevitably there is a suspicion of the meaning of the word.
The history of the cheongsam
The beginning of the Republic of China - the quiet transition of the cheongsam.
In the early 20th century, China's politics were in a state of flux. The Xinhai Revolution abolished the imperial system, the creation of the Republic of China, cut the braid hair, easy to serve the color, destroyed, belonging to the feudal dynasty of the crown and clothing hierarchy into the history museum, all of which for the new cheongsam to create the conditions for the prolonged life.
The 20's - inverted large sleeves and new styles.
In the 1910s and early 1920s, there was a wave of "new civilized clothes" among urban women.
The 1930s - the golden age (i)
The 1920s to the 1940s is the most glorious period of modern Chinese women's clothing, and the 1930s can be considered the peak of this period of splendor. It was at this time that the cheongsam established its irreplaceable position on the stage of women's clothing and became a typical representative of Chinese women's clothing.
40s--golden age (ii)
The process of cheongsam's development into a classic can be said to have been basically completed in the 30s, and the 40s was a continuation of the golden age in time.
50's - also had a brilliant moment
In the era of the people's ownership, if there is a popularity of clothing, the popularity of the dominant has shifted to the civilian.
60s and 70s - 20 years of neglect
The Cultural Revolution from 1966 to 1976 was a catastrophe for traditional culture and a disaster for cheongsam.
The 80s and 90s - the glory is hard to come by
The heyday of the cheongsam is far away, and it has been left out in the cold for 30 years, and it seems to be somewhat outdated in the country that has opened up since the 80s.
The aesthetics of the cheongsam
In the last decade or so, the cheongsam has re-emerged in fashion, making frequent appearances at international fashion dances, with more than enough poise to outshine its predecessors, and has been made into a kind of formal dress with national significance that has appeared on various international social and ceremonial occasions.
Cheongsam's Beijing and Shanghai schools
Beijing and Shanghai schools represent two styles in art and culture. The Hai Pais style is characterized by the absorption of Western art, which is new and flexible, with a strong commercial atmosphere; the Beijing Pais style, on the other hand, has an official style, which is reserved and condensed.
Artists and cheongsam
Art is a social ideology that reflects social life and expresses the author's thoughts and feelings by shaping images.
The Designer and the Cheongsam
After the evolution of the first half of the 20th century, the basic features and components of the cheongsam slowly stabilized. The cheongsam became a classic women's garment. The classic is relatively stable, while the fashion is ever-changing. But fashion designers often look for inspiration from the treasure trove of classics, and the cheongsam is one of the sources of inspiration for designers.
In short, the cheongsam is a traditional garment of Chinese women, not a historical garment that has been lost. It has the vicissitudes of the past, but also has a new look now. The cheongsam itself has a certain historical significance, coupled with a high degree of appreciation, and is therefore extremely collectible. Although not many women wear cheongsam in modern times, many places in modern cheongsam still maintain the traditional flavor, while reflecting the beauty of fashion, so it also has a certain collector's value.
Cheongsam selection
Cheongsam has a history of more than 300 years of development, is a strong national character, embodies the Chinese people grazing traditional art, for the international unique Chinese women's representative clothing.
There are so many varieties of cheongsam, you should pay attention to the following two points when you buy. To wear according to their own needs. Such as wedding dress (cheongsam) not only fabric texture and color is bright and colorful, full of festive colors; welcome guests to the banquet dress (cheongsam) fabrics should be high-class noble, color soft generous, the appearance of stable and elegant; casual cheongsam can be arbitrary, highlighting the individuality and beauty of the body type, comfortable and generous wear.
The specifications of the ready-made cheongsam on the market are made according to the popular body type. Because everyone has their own special body, and the cheongsam tends to be tight, hugging strong clothing, size specifications is an important indicator of the purchase of cheongsam. Therefore, the purchase of cheongsam must accurately measure out their own "three circumference", that is, bust, waist, hip circumference, and with the cheongsam: "three circumference" appropriate or slightly more. Then, in the dressing room to try on the view of its "three circumference" is close to the body comfortable, followed by the view collar, body, sleeve length and fat and thin. The size of the cheongsam size purchase is different from dresses and other clothing, the requirements are very strict, otherwise it will lose its style and uniqueness.
Cheongsam fabric selection: cheongsam material selection is very wide. Daily general wear cheongsam, summer can choose cotton printed fine cloth, printed poplin, color woven poplin, shi color poplin, all kinds of linen yarn, printed horizontal satin, jacquard cloth and other thin weaving; homemade short cheongsam, light, cool, beautiful, practical. Spring and fall can choose chemical fiber or mixed textiles, such as a variety of flash silk, polyester silk, and a variety of thin tweed and other fabrics. These fabrics, although moisture absorption, breathability is poor, but its appearance than the cotton fabrics smooth, gorgeous and pleasing to the eye, in the season is not cold or hot to wear very suitable.
Courtesy or performance wear cheongsam is very careful. Summer wear, cheongsam fabrics should choose silk double crepe, silk spinning, power spinning, Hang Luo silk fabrics. The texture of the fabric is soft, light and not sticky, comfortable and cool. Spring and fall wear, cheongsam fabrics should choose a variety of satin and velvet: such as brocade satin, ancient satin, gold satin, crepe satin, georgette velvet, gold velvet, etc., these high-level fabrics made of cheongsam can fully express the beauty of the Oriental women's body, point line highlights the rich rhyme and soft, noble and elegant, if the chest, collar, lapel slightly embellished decorations, more glamorous.
Cheongsam preservation and wear
A, cheongsam finishing
Now most women wear cheongsam mostly brocade fabric, and this brocade is not suitable for washing, so wear should be very careful, especially pay attention to not stained with oil, cola and lipstick, because this kind of material is the most difficult to clean, even if you send to the dry cleaner may not be able to completely remove, so we recommend that:
The cheongsam is the most important thing for women's health, so we recommend that:
Cheongsam is the most important thing for women's health. So we suggest:
1, the cheongsam should not be worn for several days.
2. Keep an eye out for sharp objects to avoid hooks and holes in the cheongsam.
3. Don't roll up your sleeves for convenience.
Second, the cheongsam's washing and ironing
If the newly worn cheongsam is dirty, you can use a piece of slightly wet cloth to lay on the dirty place with an iron to iron, so that some of the dust will be attached to the cloth, not only to clean the cheongsam, but also to play the role of the whole ironing.
Third, the collection of cheongsam
Cheongsam if you don't wear it with a hanger (wide kind) to hang up the cheongsam, pay attention to the shoulder to support properly. Before hanging into the closet, but also remember to put on the moth-proof supplies.
Additionally, silk clothes should be changed and washed regularly, do not set aside after taking off. Wearing silk clothes do not stick to the body, to avoid excessive sweat
Liquid erosion of the clothes, so that the clothes discoloration, deterioration, damage. Wearing silk clothing should not be in the mat, rattan chairs, wooden planks and other rough
brown things to sleep, so as not to cause unnecessary damage and and silk. In addition, the collection of silk clothing, should be placed in a camphor box,
to prevent moths.
Zhang Man-yu in the performance of the "Flowering Years" wore more than 20 sets of cheongsam in a row, become the recognized spokesman for the cheongsam, but also to make the cheongsam more popular, more into the lives of ordinary people.
The cheongsam is interesting
China's young women's body compared to young women in the West, generally more slender, beautiful curves, and clean lines and smooth, simple and elegant style of the cheongsam, its greatest advantage is that it can be aptly rendered in the curves of the Chinese women's carcass beauty. It is in line with the aesthetic needs of young Chinese women at the same time, but also due to the production of labor-saving materials, dress and very convenient advantages, thus showing vigorous vitality.
So, how did this vibrant cheongsam develop?
The name of the cheongsam originated from the establishment of the eight banners system in Nurhachu, the Manchus are known as the "flag people", their dress is known as the "cheongsam". The earliest cheongsam's basic style is round neck, narrow sleeves, to the right side of the twisted lapel. The hem was slit on all sides, with a buckle and trip, and a waistband." This is a style for all seasons of the year, with only a difference in cloth. This men and women are wearing robes and coats clothing, because in the narrow oil mouth, but also a cut-off long under the short half-moon sleeve head, shaped like a horseshoe, so also known as "horseshoe sleeves", also known as "arrow sleeve". Usually
ò up, winter line cat combat down, so that it covers the back of the hand, can keep warm and does not affect the bow and arrow. Slit on all sides is to facilitate mounting and dismounting. Girdle, one can increase the warmth of lying; the second is out of the hunt, can be dry food and other loaded into the front lapel; the third is to carry a knife, spoons, chopsticks Nu, as well as put the fire scythe, flint, flint small pockets and leather smoke purse, can be hung on the belt.
Manchu dry in 1644 after the main people of the Central Plains, swimming pigs into farming, and with the Han culture, such as the exchange of large collars and large oils, the original as the national culture of the cheongsam, the characteristics of the appearance, but also naturally change. For example: not suitable for farming narrow sleeves oil horseshoe sleeves, became a flared sleeve; not often riding horses, four slits changed to two slits, or even no slits; cheongsam has become a straight wide-sleeved big-sleeved robe style. Material has also changed. After the former capital of Shengjing in the northeast, has been changed from the leather hold mainly to more cotton, then, not only still more cotton, silk and satin section is also more up. Although the men's cheongsam is still blue, black two colors, but the readers have a considerable part of the people wear white, red, purple. As for the yellow, because it is the color of the Royal sole, if you use it will be beheaded, and can be linked to the nine families, so, the people are taboo.