Impressions of Northern Shaanxi

"Do you know how many bays there are on the Yellow River?

Dozens of boats on dozens of bays?

How many dozens of poles are on the dozens of boats?

The first thing you need to know is how to get your hands on a boat.

......"

The setting sun's afterglow shines on the village, the smoke curls up into the sky, a head tied white sheep belly handkerchief wearing a light plate old sheepskin jacket of the old man of Shaanbei, carrying farming tools to drive the old cattle, from the fields to plow back. The mountain beam beam someone sang a magnificent Xin Tianyou, melody melodious high, coarse expansion unrestrained Xin Tianyou, in that barren and mangy, gully longitudinal yellow land echo, long can not be dispersed.

The northern Shaanxi region is an old revolutionary area, the center of the Loess Plateau in China, including the cities of Yulin and Yan'an in Shaanxi Province. Since ancient times, northern Shaanxi is the "knot area" of the cultural fusion of farming and nomadic civilization. In the north of Shaanxi Province, the Qin and Han cultures were formed as the main body, and some of the northern steppe culture was fused with the unique cultural personality.

The Pearl of the Seas - Yulin

In the afternoon, we took the car from Xi'an, all the way along the 210 National Highway to the north, after the Huangling, the sky is gradually dark. Xi'an to Yulin distance of 600 kilometers, long-distance sleeper bus every afternoon from Xi'an, on the way no longer on the passengers, the next day dawn to Yulin. Taking a sleeper bus is convenient, the journey can sleep and rest, a sleep up to reach the destination, without delay. Unlike the long-distance public **** car, all the way to stop and go, to Yan'an, but also to find a hotel to rest for a night, the journey to walk on more than a whole day.

To Suide, Mibi, the sky is gradually bright. Through the window to look out, the Loess Plateau, gullies and ravines, majestic and cool, the countless beams, different forms, a hundred forms! But the Wuding River Basin, is the streams, paddy fields are densely packed, the interlocking farmland around, is a neat rows of net-like windbreak forest belt. The rich and unique border culture and picturesque desert flavor is unforgettable.

Yulin, called Yuyang, the ancient Shangxian land, there is a "small Beijing" reputation, according to the desert, based on the plateau, overlooking the Hetao in the north, the south sheltered Sanqin, since the Shang Wuding north Ghost Fang three years, has been our country's national wars in the ancient battlefield of the outposts, the Ming Chenghua set up during the years of the Yulin Wei, built a guardian city, for the Great Wall, one of the nine side of the town. Now Yulin has a highway north to Inner Mongolia Ordos, east to Shanxi, west to Ningxia, south to Guanzhong, easy to come and go. Here is still the transportation hub of northern Shaanxi and strategic location.

About 5 kilometers north of the city has Zhenbei Terrace, is the thirty-fifth year of the Ming Wanli (1607) in order to protect the Mongolian and Han Chinese trading market and the establishment. Platform height of four layers, circumference of 130 meters, an area of 5O50 square meters, is the Great Wall along the largest and most majestic piers. East of the Great Wall, around the Red Mountain, control the throat of the North and South, locking the Great Wall to the mouth, towering in the Ordos Maowusu Desert side, just like a huge barrier. Climbing to the top of the platform to look out, Yulin cityscape, as far as the eye can see.

Not far from the west of Zhenbei Terrace, along the banks of the Qingshui River, there is the famous Red Rock Gorge, consisting of red sandstone, so the name. Both sides of the rock wall is like a knife, more than 10 meters high. Chiseled stone grottoes, **** 44 grottoes. According to the monument records, this was once a famous temple between the Song and Yuan, called the Red Mountain Temple, is built by the mausoleum of the two kings of Western Xia. With the changes in history, people today called the Red Rock Gorge. There are many ancient inscriptions on the stone wall. Over the centuries, the Red Stone Gorge had a famous border, many officials and literati came to Yulin, must first go here to recite poems and fugues, and occasionally have a good sentence chapter, it will be engraved in the stone cliffs. Now for the crowd favorite tourist attractions.

In the early 1990s, Yulin is still a county-level city. Yuxi River from north to south from the middle of the city through the city's main street is an old street, a watery brick stone road, most of the street is the Ming and Qing Dynasty buildings. The main street is a three-mile-long street, from south to north, distributed in order of Wenchang Pavilion, Wanfo Lou, Xingming Lou, Bell Tower, Kaige Lou, Drum Tower six pavilions, there is a "South Tower in the North Tower in the ancient city, the six floors of the world's famous cycling street," the reputation. The backstreets and alleys are a green brick masonry courtyard. Since the middle of the Ming Dynasty, civil officials and military generals, border merchants and artisans gathered, long streets and short alleys, high walls and low eaves of the courtyard will become a place for people from all walks of life. Yulin city flat street width, thick walls, spacious courtyards, stores and homes, are slightly with the situation in Beiping. According to research, Yulin City, there are more than 1,000 courtyard, but unfortunately the lack of awareness of heritage protection, or was demolished, or became a compound.

Second Street is not yet fully built, Xisha that piece or shantytown. The city's largest enterprise is the second Yulin Woolen Spinning Factory, Yulin woolen blankets, woolen cold weather clothing, high quality and low price, world famous; the most well-known school is a century-old school with glorious revolutionary traditions and profound schooling heritage, - Yulin Middle School, is one of the first fifteen provincial key high schools identified in Shaanxi Province. The sweetest but peach blossom water. It is said that women drink Puhui spring water with delicate skin and peach blossom face, and women are beautiful and feminine. The peach blossom water tofu in Yulin is even better than meat with its own refreshing flavor. It is said that you can weigh hooks; the most lively place is outside the south gate, in front of the Yulin District Transportation Company, people are boisterous, hawking, yelling, quarrelling mixed together, bicycles, cars, donkey carts bustling, coming and going.

Yulin is located in the southern edge of the Mao Wusu sand, is one of the national land desertification and sand hazardous serious areas. Geomorphological features of the Great Wall as a boundary, the northern part of the southern edge of the Mao Wusu Desert sandy beach area, the southern part of the Loess Plateau hills and gullies, the southwestern part of the Baiyushan District is a beam-shaped low hills. In the past, Yulin was filled with yellow sand every spring, "Liu Guiwan, scraping the wind, scraping the daytime light on the lamp, scraping the magpies lost their lives, scraping the donkey off the gully, scraping the grinder turned over the burrito." Yulin city has been forced to move south three times, there have been a number of "sandy city walls, emergency exclusion" of the case, the wind and sand even more than the scourge of war, so that the people of the city in fear.

The street side is yellow sand, feet step on the sheep. On the street to walk around, flying up the yellow sand on the clothes, pouring into the shoes and socks, "creak, creak, creak" to make the body very uncomfortable. But unlike the yellow soil, it is not easy to dust off. I looked for a bicycle riding, riding in the sand is very difficult, not riding far will be twisted down, pick up and then ride, and then fall. The western outskirts of the city, is manually planted patches of camphor pine forests; in the distance is the rolling yellow sand beams, the boundless sea of sand, dotted with clumps of green sand willow, sand artemisia.

Since the end of the last century, since the end of the 50th, the Yulin government and the people have been vigorously building windbreak forest belts, water pulling sand, flooding and siltation, to carry out the transformation of the desert's huge project. In the hinterland of the desert planting more than 10,000 acres of patches of woodland, built a total length of 1500 kilometers of the four large-scale protective forest belts, now the city's territory of 8.6 million acres of quicksand has been more than 6 million acres to get fixed, semi-fixed, 50 million acres of sand, afforestation and preservation of an area of 16,290,000 acres of the Mao Wusu Desert vegetation coverage rate has reached 30%. Yulin city's forest cover reached 33%, realizing the "people into the sand retreat" historic transformation. Improvement of the ecological environment, promote the rapid development of planting industry, not only improve the living environment, but also improve the city's investment environment, energy and chemical base construction can be successfully promoted, the regional economy presents a prosperous scene.

The rural areas of northern Shaanxi -- Jiaxian Majiagou

Outside the south gate, we took a shuttle bus to Jiaxian. The little sister wrapped up the headscarf, wrapped tightly, twisted his head and smiled: "Brother-in-law, the wind and sand here can be big." Along the Yujia highway, after the Qingyun Temple, and then along the Jia Lu River, through the Liu Qianhe, Fang collapse, about 30 kilometers away, walked for an hour, and finally arrived at the Wang Jiaxing.

Wang Jiaxing town, the mountains and rivers are connected, convenient transportation, according to the six townships in the center of the position, is the distribution center of agricultural and sideline products, since ancient times, known as Jiaxian "cabbage heart". Wangjiacheng territory, flat river, Sichuan collapse into pieces, rich in water resources, Jia Lu River water for both sides of the irrigation provides a convenient. Wangjiacing Middle School is one of the key middle schools in Jiaxian County.

In Wangjiacheng did not stop, we took the village shuttle bus to Liu Guoguo Township. The village through the shuttle, in fact, is a dilapidated jeep, the carriage is full, there is an old goat, - the nearby farmers to catch the goat also led the car. Jeep along the mountain road ran up quickly, all the way black smoke, all the way bumps, dusty. About half an hour, to the village of Kang Yayao we get off, the next distance to walk.

"The desert is lonely, the long river sets the sun round." Standing high in the mountains of northern Shaanxi, raise your eyes and look around, a ditch and beams, a mountain mountain dao, here and there, stretching, wilderness wilderness, rugged and desolate. Next to the road in the sand, to pike grass, willow, sand artemisia, camel thorns mostly, trees are mainly poplar, willow, elm. In the gap between the sandy plants, is speckled with yellow sand. The wind rose, yellow sand rolling, can not open the eyes, gravel hit the face numb pain. The mountains are not far away, there will be a small mound, or called the pier, which is the ancient military use of the beacon. More than built in the Northern Song Dynasty, for the defense of Western Xia, Liao invasion and built, in case of hostile situation occurs, the daytime smoke, fire at night, Taiwan connected to pass the message.

Not far ahead of the depression, is the destination of this trip - Liu Guoguo township Majiagou village. The village is not very big, just a hundred or ten families, the whole village is surnamed Ma. Majiagou from Liu Guoguo more than 30 miles, and Wang Jiajing town even shore planting, people with the set to catch the meeting is also to Wang Jiajing. In accordance with the "living by the water, built on the mountain." In accordance with the principle of "living by the water and building by the mountain", people in the ditch on the south slope of the sunny place circled the kiln, rows of stone kilns high and low, slightly stepped arrangement, but also a patchwork. Into the village is the Majiagou elementary school, a small yard, built three stone kilns, a circle of low stone walls, simple fence gate almost never locked. Not far from the school is a simple temple of the Dragon King, the back of the village has a land temple, farmers can not be separated from the land, the land can not be separated from the rain. "Village has a temple, home has a shrine", is all the counties and cities in northern Shaanxi Province **** have characteristics, Majiagou is no exception.

The kiln is a product of the Loess Plateau, the symbol of farmers in northern Shaanxi. In the past, a farmer worked hard all his life, the most basic desire is to build a few kilns. The first thing you need to do is to get a good deal of money to pay for the services of the company. Men digging in the yellow earth, the woman in the earth kiln to run the household chores, give birth to children. A kiln is usually built with three or five holes, and most of them have a center kiln. The semicircular window panes are covered with white windowpaper and red window flowers; inside the kiln, the pots and pans are made of oil and egg skins to form flowers; the kang is covered with green and flowery bedding; the beds are covered with white straw mats and woolen felts; and the cupboards, chests, and rice hoards are arranged in an orderly manner. "Rice wine and oil buns on a charcoal fire, sitting in a group on the kang." Men and women in northern Shaanxi Province live in such a cozy kiln, the sunrise, the day into the rest, men and women love, reproduction, a vibrant.

At the bottom of the ditch there is an unknown small river, the river has a well, mountain springs, fresh and sweet. Shanbei people and Guanzhong customs are very different, home guests, the first end of the home pickled wine dates, brine fried pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and then a bowl of millet porridge. There is no tea here, no tea for guests. If you are thirsty, just pick up a ladle and drink from the water tank. Rural people mostly eat lard, do not eat chili, less vinegar, like to eat grains, braised vegetables, pork braised vermicelli everyone loves.

The village around the beam beam is the farmers' land. Mainly planted grain rice, sorghum, corn, buckwheat, mung beans, etc., economic crops are potatoes and sunflower. Especially suitable for planting potatoes, sandy soil, loose, light, rain and heat in the same season, the temperature difference between day and night, very suitable for the growth and development of potatoes, the average yield of 1,600 kilograms to 3,000 kilograms per mu. One side of the water and soil to raise a side of people, rural women in northern Shaanxi often say, away from the barbarians (potato), will not cook. Potatoes produced here have a smooth skin, color and luster elegant, large meat fat, texture and meticulous, containing high starch, loved by local farmers. Every year in the fall harvest of potatoes are not pulled home, near the storage in the roadside cellar. "Will not lose, no one to steal." Wife said. There are also big red dates, jujube Jiaxian jujube fruit large nuclear small, thin skin and thick meat, texture crisp silk long, juicy and sweet, known as "China's red dates of the township". Each family in front of the door, stream, or ditch side, mountain dao, are planted on the jujube tree, the mountains, everywhere. People on the ground, or shepherd sheep, piggyback on the planting of a dozen jujube trees, families have a dozen acres of jujube garden.

Shaanxi North has the most flavor of the New Year. Almost every family has a fire tower, which is lit on New Year's Eve and burns all night long, and the children play around the fire tower. Street merchants to build up more than ten feet high fire tower, people around the fire tower twisting rice-planting songs. People in northern Shaanxi Raise rice-planting songs, is to figure a red-hot. Every year after the second day of the first month to start, until the fifteenth day of the first month to pressure the gongs and drums five sound. Because of the quality of local coal, and firewood to help burn, so in the night of the first fifteen lit, the flame illuminates the night sky, in the umbrella under the leadership of the head, step on the resounding gongs and drums, and loud and clear oboe, rice-planting team around the tower singing and dancing, especially umbrella head of the impromptu performances, sing-alongs, very good to see.

After the Spring Festival, the children began to go to school, and the men in the family had to go out to work, so the crops in the field relied on the women's work. After the men left, the women took up the plowshare alone and drove the donkey up the mountain, planting in the spring, hoeing in the summer, harvesting in the fall, and hiding in the winter, year after year. A donkey, a stiletto and a woman, in the mountain mount mount on the calm plateau to make the yellow soil flying. Here farming is bitter, bitter in the mountain road is also rugged, bitter in the use of machinery, all rely on manpower. A piece of hillside after hillside, a mount after a mount, endless work, endless land. They go up the mountain to carry firewood, go down to the river to pick water, push the mill to press tofu, all day long in the yellow mountains between the ravine and beams, all day long in the house outside the yard busy. They are just like the brightly colored crocus flowers on the back of the Loess Plateau, which bring a beautiful and eye-catching scenery to the monotonous Loess Plateau.

People here love to sing, whether it is bitter or sweet, whether it is happy or depressed; "Shaanbei people will be a few words of albatross, twisting a section of rice-planting songs." The wife said. But in everyday life, it will not be easy to hear. Guanzhong Qinqiang singing broad sound Dasang, straight up and down, giving a person high-pitched excitement, rough and simple feeling; northern Shaanxi folk songs are like the Yellow River water brewed into the old shochu, tasted a mouthful of, immediately will be drunk on the heart. Both of them have their own strengths. There is the flavor of the blue sky, the flavor of the loess, and the strong flavor of the people in northern Shaanxi in Xintiyou. Xintianyou is the heavenly music on the yellow earth, and it is the shandan dan dan born in the heart of the northern Shaanxi people.

"When God closes a door for you, he is bound to open another window for you." In 2005, the state in the yellow sand beam from Wangjiacheng to Majiagou, exploration found that the underground is rich in rock salt resources. Borrowing the rich rock salt resources, the state set up a provincial-level Yujia Economic and Technological Development Zone. At present, the new construction of the Yujia high-speed, Shen Jia high-speed intersection here, the transportation is very convenient, Yujia Economic and Technological Development Zone has been stationed in 28 enterprises, everywhere is a hot and busy scene.

Most of the land to implement the mountain grazing ban, fallow forests and grass, the ecological environment in northern Shaanxi is getting better and better. People moved out of the generations of living Ma Jiagou, in the convenient transportation of the sand mount Liang circle up a new kiln; through the human storage drinking water project, the bottom of the ditch well water on the new settlements, cement road also channeled the village. From the land liberated from the surplus laborers, in front of the door of the industrial park to work. Every dusk, back from work, young boys and women in-laws, gathered in the village center of the cultural square, lively square dance, twisted up the big rice-planting song, people's lives are getting better and better.