Let me say one more thing here. I never thought that constituent party was a particularly positive word. I've said it many times before. Just a small part of skin care. It is actually similar to the concept of looking up ingredients in a dictionary. It may be a reasonable tool, but it is definitely not all. So I hope everyone will treat this article rationally. This is just a summary of experience. It can be understood as a design case, a design routine, some of my own collocations and other collocations used later are similar to a design work, not a design manual and design criteria.
origin
The smart ABC portfolio originated from an idea I had at the end of last year. At the end of the year, there will always be some imagination and design for the skin care plan for the new year. Back to the line of problem-appeal-idea-scheme-product, I have genotypic oily skin and can't live without alcohol A product all the year round. The management of inflammation is my greatest concern, and the appeal of 20 17 is more about skin color.
About this problem &; Under the appeal, the system with vitamin ABC as the core gradually took shape.
In the anti-oxidation part of the daytime in the second half of last year, I tried many VC genre products. Compared with antioxidant cocktail products, the overall effect of VC is better. In fact, it is comparable to some black technologies on my face, which is also helpful for stabilizing skin color. Although black technology is gorgeous and moving, it is more critical of skin condition.
The article on inflammation also mentioned the effect of VC+VB3 on acute inflammatory pigmentation. In addition, it helps to further maintain my oil-free appearance, with alcohol A at night.
In addition, these three films have just discovered some products that have won my heart.
Then from 65438+2007, I began to practice this ABC collocation formally. Fortunately, I did complete this year's appeal in a very short time, and now the overall situation in March is really good.
concept
The concept of intelligent ABC combination is a skin care collocation routine designed with vitamin ABC products as the core.
In a narrow sense, it first appeared as a icing on the cake routine: stabilizing and gradually improving and optimizing skin color and skin quality.
Generally speaking, it takes into account many aspects such as anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation (the overall formula and other collocation of the product need to be considered) and anti-aging.
We often say that cleaning-moisturizing-defense is the most basic link of skin care. Obviously, intelligent ABC combination does not belong to this basic link, it is more like a functional combination. After the skin barrier function is completed, ABC combination has played an excellent role in oil control, purification, rejuvenation and other modules.
A
The main forms of vitamin A added in skin care products are retinol (Avena is not known to be used at present, and it is also found in some products of sesderma), retinol, hydrogenated retinol, retinol-bound yeast polypeptide, fruit acid and vitamin A ester. The classic theory is that these forms of vitamin A can eventually be converted into acid to play a role, but at present, studies have shown that vitamin A in the form of retinol can also improve the skin without being converted into acid.
Vitamin A can be understood as a very powerful skin care ingredient, and its proven functions include: anti-inflammatory, regulating the growth and differentiation of epidermal cells, promoting collagen production, improving the function of sebaceous glands-controlling oil, inhibiting melanin production, resisting oxidation and reversing photoaging, and thickening dermis.
Therefore, vitamin A products have different positioning: oil control and acne positioning; Improve the root and strong orientation of dry and sensitive skin; Whitening and spot orientation (mostly powerful products); Antioxidant orientation; Anti-aging orientation. However, it is necessary to repeat here. Whether an excellent single ingredient can exert its excellent effect or even better in practice depends on whether it is symptomatic, the design and collocation of ideas and schemes, the choice of specific products and even the method of use.
B
Vitamin B is a group, not an ingredient. Besides VB3 nicotinamide, which we often mention, may be the most concerned ingredient in B skin care products, B2 is closely related to angular stomatitis and seborrheic dermatitis. B6 regulates oil secretion and inhibits dermatitis, and biotin regulates oil secretion, which may have certain whitening significance. The original B5 is panthenol. Panthenol is an important humectant, which can promote the content of hyaluronic acid in skin and has excellent anti-inflammatory significance. Despite the negative events of the year before last, nicotinamide has been considered as an important ingredient in dermatology for many years. Including accelerating melanin metabolism, inhibiting its transfer pathway (but whitening products mainly based on VB3 may rebound after stopping using other whitening ingredients, but the speed is fast, which is suitable for first aid), promoting epidermal protein synthesis, increasing the content of barrier free fatty acids and ceramides (improving water storage capacity), anti-aging, anti-oxidation (precursors of NADP and NADPH), controlling oil to some extent, improving the appearance of coarse pores and inhibiting acne.
The products corresponding to B5 are mainly moisturizing and anti-inflammatory, while VB3 is more, including whitening, anti-aging, oil control and skin smoothing. In addition, there are some vitamin B complex products to improve/strengthen the skin in an all-round way. But like A, we should not only look at the composition on paper, but also look at the overall collocation.
C
Vitamin C is also an important component of classic beauty. Some people even say that if there are dozens of classic beauty ingredients, VC must be on the list. The prototype dosage form has good effect, but it also has the problems of transdermal stimulation and instability. The derivative form is relatively stable, but its permeability and effect may be slightly worse. However, with the development of technology, each form of VC has been improved by technical means such as technology and collocation. Derivatives include: ascorbic acid glucoside AA2G (reducing dopaquinone, inhibiting melanogenesis and promoting collagen synthesis), 3-o- ethyl ascorbic acid (small molecule, with better stability and permeability than AA2G), sodium ascorbate phosphate SAP, magnesium ascorbate phosphate MAP (mild anti-inflammatory), ascorbate palmitate, tetradecanol ascorbate, and sodium ascorbate palmitate APPS.
The positive significance of vitamin C lies in the double improvement of skin and skin color. As an important part of whitening, stimulating collagen synthesis is of great significance to maintain skin elasticity and fullness. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects act on both skin color and skin color.
VC products are mainly anti-oxidation and whitening, and are also products that increase collagen synthesis and anti-aging. But like A and B, we should not only look at a single ingredient, but also look at the overall collocation.
A+B+C
In my opinion, the two biggest characteristics of A+B+C are classic efficiency and multi-orientation.
This is also the reason why I will gradually form ABC collocation routines and constantly improve its support points.
Undoubtedly classic and efficient. No matter which ABC is, it is a very classic skin care ingredient, which is supported by rich system theory and its positive and negative effects are also elaborated in detail. Dialectically speaking, more and more efficient black technologies emerge one after another, but classics always have a place. This is not to argue which is better, classic or emerging, but to say that both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Controlling black technology often requires some experience, and from a certain point of view, its positive and negative effects may not be thoroughly studied, and it will take time to further test. It is my attitude to pay tribute to the classics. Sometimes it is good to practice from the classics if you practice collocation.
The diversity of directions determines the richness of ABC combination. No matter which of the three has more than one functional orientation, you can associate it with products with different functional types by looking at any one (as mentioned above). Then further permutation and combination can produce various combinations for different skin problems and improvement needs.
Next, I will share the different collocation schemes of intelligent ABC combination that I have practiced and thought of at present.
formula
* Note: Here are just some of my opinions, which will help attract more attention. I suggest looking at an idea, not just an example. ABC doesn't mean choosing three products accordingly. After flexible application, it is possible for ABC to correspond to one product or two products, and to see the essence through the appearance.
Oil control and purification
Oil control and purification not only include the most basic reduction of shine, but also gently manage keratin metabolism and reduce the dull and rough problem that plagues oily skin.
A: A product for controlling oil/preventing acne recurrence/smoothing skin: Topix 3x/5x, which is a clinical multi-dimensional serum, phyto-c multi-dimensional gel;
A+B: products combined with AB: clinical multidimensional serum or phyto-c multidimensional gel;
B: Oil-control and skin-friendly VB3 products: Paula resist 10%VB3 booster, Dongfang10% VB3 booster;
C: VC products in weak acid environment are helpful to control oil and regulate cutin: Dr. VC night peeling, Dr. apps, etc.
Other collocation:
Cleansing products with certain degreasing power but without excessively affecting the skin barrier: boscia amino acid cleansing, is clinical compound cleansing liquid, Paula Luyuan, etc.
Refreshing antioxidant products slow down oil secretion: topix cf essence, etc.
Superposition moisturizing products according to your own preferences: topix hyaluronic acid essence, Duke b5, etc. Generally speaking, try to choose low-fat, low-sealing type, and also consider personal preferences.
[example]
Morning: Cleansing-Dr. ——VC Skin +TOPIX CF+ Paula Sponge Oil Control Cream+Sunscreen;
Evening: Cleansing-Paula Resist/ Dongfang 10% VB3 booster +Topix A alcohol or clinical multivitamin serum or phyto-c multivitamin gel;
When using, pay attention to the need to set the order of use of products reasonably. For example, in the case of inexperience, it is best to avoid using acidic environmental products and VB3 at the same time. The irritation of both products needs to be considered in A+B, which does not mean that A+B will definitely reduce the irritation. If both products are very intolerant, it may aggravate the irritation.
Dry-sensitive barrier is durable (advanced)
Advanced refers to the strong directional collocation of ABC barrier function, which is suitable for strengthening the basic barrier and the skin is not in a serious fragile and dry stage. Specifically, it can be compared with the five parts of barrier reinforcement in the top Weibo, and ABC Advanced corresponds to the next three steps.
A: Class A products with strong skin, enhanced skin function and low irritation: cerave Revitalizing Essence and Ogilvy Retinol Essence (both of which are composed of physiological lipid components, which are tolerated by Yi Jianli);
B: Vitamin B compound product for strengthening skin/B5 for strengthening moisturizing and diminishing inflammation/VB3 for synergistically strengthening skin water storage capacity: Duke B5/ SKII muscle source repair essence, etc.
A+B: NIA24 barrier strengthening cream/intensive repair cream, phyto-c velvet gel/emergency vitamin complex essence, etc.
C: mild VC products with anti-inflammatory and collagen regeneration promoting effects: obagi C 10, DHC294 essence, etc.
B+C: strengthen skin and improve skin color and anti-aging orientation: algenist youth series VC essence;
Other collocation:
Avoid external stimuli;
Gentle cleaning method, you can use foam-free cleanser with warm water towel;
Long-term appropriate supplementation of physiological lipids can protect the basic functions of skin barrier, such as classic Ya Dun Gold Glue and cerave series products.
[example]
Morning: Clear Water Cleansing-Ya Dun Seven-Level Active Muscle Base Liquid -DHC294-nia24 Barrier Strengthening Cream-Sunscreen;
Evening: foam-free facial cleanser with warm water towel -DHC294-nia24 barrier cream.
Powerful whitening
A: Dr. Dennis Gross Felix+Retinol Brightening Serum;
B: Many whitening products of Procter & Gamble Group are mainly concentrated in VB3: small green bottle (now white and transparent), prox small white bottle, large white bottle, SK II ring color, etc. Paula 10%VB3, etc.
A+B: generally whitening products containing AB are often compounded with other classic whitening ingredients, which are comprehensive and effective: Skin Medically Lytera1.0, PCA A alcohol essence brightening, Dr. Dennis Gross overnight essence, etc.
C: classic whitening ingredients, taking into account anti-oxidation, can improve and maintain the stability of skin color: martiderm skincomplex, etc.
Other collocation:
Pay attention to strictly avoid external stimuli during intense whitening, do a good job of soothing and priming according to your own skin condition, and avoid negative reactions caused by excessive force: avoid using alcohol with high concentration and some irritating chemical sunscreen agents, which are mild, clean and inexperienced. It is best not to wear powerful exfoliating and topix srs products at the same time.
[example]
Morning: clear water/gentle cleansing -topix SRS-Marti derskin complex-properly superimposed moisturizing products-sun protection;
Evening: gentle cleansing -topix srs-lytera 1.0- add moisturizing products appropriately.
All-round skin color rises steadily: radiant+smooth and delicate.
A: anti-aging/whitening-oriented Class A products: nia24 intensive repair cream, cnp rx vita a contour cream (aldehyde technology), Dr. Dennis Gross+Retinol skin brightening essence, etc.
A+B: overnight serum of Dr. Dennis Gross;
B: SK Ⅱ ring color Zhen Lu Ying, Paula 10%VB3, etc.
C: Comprehensive antioxidant orientation of high concentration VC combined with other antioxidants: Topix Citrix Pro-Collagen Brightening Essence, martiderm skincomplex, DR DENNIS GROSS C-COLLAGEN VC Essence, etc.
Other collocation:
Moderately manage keratin metabolism to make skin look brighter and neater;
SK ⅱ skin care essence/Qingying dew, cnprx balance toner (PHA technology), etc.
Strengthen anti-aging and further improve skin quality;
Ya Dun Tang Can Essence Enhanced Edition/Ya Dun Tang Can Night Cream (A ester+edible benzene); Lancome Pure Essence Milk/Kiehl's Purple Cream/Helena Rubinstein Black Bandage (the power of Possein);
or
Slowly but surely, step by step:
Ya Dun Qiji Active Muscle Base Liquid/Future Innocent Essence/Future Innocent Night Cream (physiological lipid plus anti-inflammatory soothing strengthening barrier); Topix srs cell repair essence; Phyto-c olive polyphenol full-effect repair essence, etc.
[example]
Morning: Clear water/gentle cleansing-SK Ⅱ skin care essence -martiderm skincomplex- Ya Dun orange jar essence enhanced version-sun protection;
Evening: Cleansing-SK Ⅱ Skin Care Essence-Dr. Dennis Gross Overnight Essence-Helena Rubinstein Black Bandage Cream.
My collocation
In my collocation, the core of ABC is all-round skin color, which is steady and rising: radiant+smooth and delicate.
A: Dr. Dennis Gross Felix+Retinol Brightening Serum;
B: Boracon 10%VB3 booster;
C:TOPIX CITRIX collagen whitening essence;
Others: SK II skin care essence, Estonian rhyming kiss cleansing;
[I was once worthy]
A: Ogilvy retinol essence;
B: sk ⅱ ring color is clear and clear;
C:TOPIX CITRIX collagen whitening essence;