DNA damage repair is a function of human body. The lysate fermented by Schizosaccharomyces can promote DNA damage repair and has a positive effect on alleviating photoaging.
And has good anti-inflammatory effect, and can also relieve skin dryness and sensitivity, and relieve stress states such as facial redness and atopic dermatitis. And can enhance the resistance of skin barrier, especially the resistance to environmental changes.
But almost all antioxidants can promote the repair of DNA damage, so they can be divided into anti-inflammatory and antioxidant components.
Therefore, it is very suitable for sensitive skin with seasonal changes and environmental changes. At the same time, it is also a good anti-aging component and has a great positive effect on the repair of damaged skin.
The Significance of "Microecology" Skin Care
In recent years, the concept of skin microecology has been mentioned more and more. Many beauty brands try to introduce skin care cosmetics called "micro-ecology" through the related concepts of probiotics and prebiotics. Hexa Research's market report shows that the global market value of probiotic cosmetics in 20 17 years is US$ 210 million, with a compound growth rate of nearly 8%, and will exceed US$ 26.3 million by 2025.
Is it a gimmick or a science? How should consumers choose? Let's talk about it today
As the largest organ of human body, skin itself is a complex ecosystem. On this surface, there are all kinds of microorganisms, tissues and cells and all kinds of secretions living in a dynamic balance. This is the so-called skin microecology (skin flora).
We used to say that the first barrier of skin is the sebum membrane outside the stratum corneum. In fact, microbial membrane is the first biological barrier of skin.
Skin microflora includes bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses (mainly bacteriophages).
According to the relationship with the host, these microorganisms can be divided into normal microorganisms, conditionally pathogenic microorganisms and pathogenic microorganisms.
Normal flora is not only harmless, but also has the function of resisting exotic pathogenic microorganisms and providing some nutrients.
Conditional pathogenic microorganisms and pathogenic microorganisms are the main causes of skin health problems. Once its dynamic balance is broken, it may lead to health problems.
For example, excessive Staphylococcus aureus is positively correlated with eczema, acne is recognized as a skin disease caused by Propionibacterium acnes, and Malassezia is positively correlated with seborrheic dermatitis.
According to statistics, the resident flora in the skin are mainly Staphylococcus, Bacillus subtilis, Micrococcus and Corynebacterium.
It can be seen that maintaining skin microecological balance is of great significance to skin health. Major skin care brands have never stopped studying this direction. Maintain, improve and promote skin health by regulating the composition of skin microorganisms or providing microenvironment to promote the growth of beneficial bacteria on the skin.
As far as skin care products are concerned, there are currently three ways to play a role:
Probiotics for external use: Bifidobacterium, lactic acid bacteria, Vitreoscilla linear, etc. And most skin care products have their extracts added; Exogenous prebiotics: prebiotics are specific nutrients (such as sugars, isomaltooligosaccharides, fructooligosaccharides, etc.) that can be absorbed by bacteria, which can promote the growth of bacteria and benefit the skin health of the host; In vitro metazoa are small molecular metabolites (such as short-chain fatty acids) produced by microorganisms, which promote information exchange between microorganisms and with skin, create a healthy living environment for bacteria and promote skin reaction.
Among them, Bifidobacterium is what we often call Bifidobacterium yeast.
Previous life of Schizosaccharomyces
Pearl's eyes.
Bifidobacterium, also known as Bifidobacterium, is an anaerobic gram-positive bacterium. (unrelated to yeast)
It was originally extracted by French pediatrician Henri Tissier from the feces of breast-fed babies. Widely exists in the digestive tract, vagina and mouth of human and animals. It was originally used to treat intestinal infections.
At present, it is known that Bifidobacterium has a good therapeutic effect on acute diarrhea and constipation by regulating intestinal flora, and can promote protein absorption and good antagonism.
But also can obviously improve the content and biological activity of superoxide dismutase in blood, effectively promote the elimination of free radicals in the body, inhibit lipid peroxidation in plasma and delay the aging of the body.
But its role can only be played by eating.
Beans, underground roots, cereals and other daily foods are rich in various dietary fibers and fructooligosaccharides (both in fruits and vegetables), which are bifidogenic factors and can promote the proliferation of bifidobacteria. This is the significance of promoting a balanced diet.
If you can, eating yogurt containing Bifidobacterium in moderation every day is much more reliable than whitening pill and Kangtang oral liquid.
If only such a good thing could be used directly on the skin? We're not the only ones who think so. In 1980s, CLR, a German cosmetic raw material company, made great efforts on Bifidobacterium.
They obtained metabolites, cell fragments, cell wall components and polysaccharide complexes from Bifidobacterium after culture, inactivation and ultrasonic crushing, which were used in emulsion, water-based and water-alcohol system skin care products. And named it the repair complex CLR? PF .
According to their research data, repair complex CLR? PF can promote cell repair, effectively activate the anti-immunosuppression process of cells, reduce the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin, and support the endogenous protective mechanism of the skin.
There are often swift horses, but Bole is not often. In that era when there was only water and frost, cell repair was too avant-garde and no one cared for it for a while.
Estee Lauder just wants to make something new. She is going to use hyaluronic acid (used for the first time in history) to make something with soft skin and perfect moisture, but only hyaluronic acid is easy to surpass.
This component of CLR can not only moisturize, but also promote cell repair. Estee Lauder decided to buy it and signed a fixed price agreement with it. Since then, others have bought more than him.
Using repair complex CLR? PF, Estee Lauder introduced the first bottle named Cell Repair Essence in history at 1982, which is also the first bottle in history-ANR (Advanced Night Repair Cell Repair Complex). Yes, it is now the famous "little brown bottle".
The core component is the repair complex CLR? , which is recorded as the lysate of Bifidobacterium fermentation (hereinafter referred to as BFL), that is, the lysate of Schizosaccharomyces fermentation products.
With this product, Estee Lauder skin care empire was formally established. Small brown bottles are enduring and selling well for more than 20 years. After many upgrades, the core component is still the lysate of the fermentation products of this Schizosaccharomyces.
In 2009, L 'Oreal Jealousy next door also took this as the core ingredient, and added hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid (exfoliating ingredient, but the key point is that it is a hydrogen ion buffer, which can control a constant pH range for a long time. Help the skin maintain a healthy weak acidic environment and promote its metabolism and resistance. ) introduced the "little black bottle" and put forward the concept of gene repair of muscle bottom fluid.
Mechanism of Schizosaccharomyces cerevisiae
To talk about the mechanism of BFL, we must first popularize a concept: the damage of ultraviolet rays to DNA.
Ultraviolet radiation can cause DNA single strand breaks, double strand breaks and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer formation, which affects the double helix structure of DNA and hinders the replication and transcription functions.
The simple understanding is that ultraviolet light is like a poisoned mace, which can not only break your hand, but also leave large and small lacerations. Toxins enter the wound and prevent it from healing.
But don't panic, we have our own repair system.
Although the frequency of human skin forming dimers due to ultraviolet irradiation can reach 5× 104 cells per hour. But this is limited to the skin. If there is a problem with the DNA repair system, excessive ultraviolet radiation may induce skin cancer.
The DNA repair of human body mainly depends on excision repair and replication and recombination. Generally speaking, it is a variety of complex enzymes to identify the damaged parts, and then remove and repair them.
Replication and recombination means that this road has cracks and stones (cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer), but it can move forward normally (replication) before reaching the cracks. When you reach the gap, remove some stones, put on your own board and move on. At this point, the reorganization is complete. But it takes several times to clean the stones thoroughly.
The repair of human DNA damage is very strong, but it will gradually weaken with age.
The principle of BFL is to reduce the cells that go into apoptosis due to ultraviolet irradiation and promote the activity of DNA repair in human body. Just like a war, get hurt less, get up quickly and win more.
In vitro experiments, the damage of 2% BFL coating film was obviously reduced after ultraviolet irradiation.
At the same time, according to different doses, the release of inflammatory and immunosuppressive factors IL- 10 and IL-10 (the signal that the body produces inflammation) is reduced by more than 30%. This means that it can improve skin inflammation and prevent immunosuppression caused by ultraviolet rays.
In the in vivo experiment, they treated the intact back skin of seven volunteers in five test areas in the following way:
After 10% BFL treatment, the efficiency of skin DNA repair is obviously improved, but the repair process will not be induced if it is not irradiated by ultraviolet light. It shows that BFL improves the efficiency of human DNA damage repair on the basis of its original mechanism.
In addition to improving the efficiency of DNA repair, BFL is also an external probiotic to maintain the dynamic balance of skin microecology. It also has a function that cannot be underestimated.
Just mentioned its anti-inflammatory effect. In addition, BFL can also help sensitive skin with damaged barrier to resist external stimuli and reduce the occurrence of stress state.
In vitro experiments, when BFL is applied to the skin, it can obviously reduce the vasodilation caused by SP (substance P, neuropeptide causing skin inflammation). Vasodilation is an important factor causing blushing and congestion.
Moreover, after cultured for 6 hours, the release of CGRP (an important peptidergic nerve fiber, which regulates cardiovascular activities and promotes vasodilation) was significantly reduced after capsaicin stimulated neurons. When the concentration is 3% and 1%, the performance is the best, and there is no significant difference.
From the clinical double-blind experiment, it can significantly reduce the skin sensitivity score.
And improve the water retention capacity of the skin. The urea content in the stratum corneum can indicate the skin's moisturizing ability. The higher the urea content, the better the skin's water retention capacity and the stronger its ability to resist environmental changes.
However, BFL is not helpful to the recovery speed of skin barrier function.
In other words, the main significance of BFL for sensitive skin is to increase the resistance of skin barrier, reduce its sensitivity, relieve inflammatory reaction and stress state, and can well alleviate the problem of dry skin.
But it has no positive significance for the recovery speed of skin barrier, that is to say, if you are not under pressure and want to use it to promote the repair of skin barrier, you may be disappointed.
But it can still maintain the dynamic balance of the skin, limit the penetration of exogenous substances into the skin, and greatly reduce the impact of environmental factors on the skin. For example: ultraviolet radiation, pollution, cold and hot temperatures, air conditioning, low temperature effects.
Suitable population of Schizosaccharomyces cerevisiae
To sum up, BFL promotes DNA damage repair and has a positive effect on alleviating photoaging.
And has good anti-inflammatory effect, and can also relieve skin dryness and sensitivity, and relieve stress states such as facial redness and atopic dermatitis. And can enhance the resistance of skin barrier, especially the resistance to environmental changes.
Therefore, it is very suitable for sensitive skin with seasonal changes and environmental changes. At the same time, it is also a good anti-aging component and has a great positive effect on the repair of damaged skin.
Some people want to ask, "cell repair", then in the fight against photoaging, is it better than alcohol A, vitamin C and other ingredients?
No, when Estee Lauder proposed "cell repair", it was a rock-breaking event. But today, DNA damage repair is not a new word. Almost all antioxidants can promote the repair of human DNA damage.
And Estee Lauder's sixth generation small brown bottle, which promotes the circadian rhythm to repair the skin, is another patent of its family. This has nothing to do with BFL. (This is also worth mentioning. )
As for product selection, Estee Lauder's BFL is based on the price contract signed many years ago, which should be the cheapest and most cost-effective among the big brands on the market. However, there is no patented component of circadian rhythm in the domestic version (not eating well). If there is a reliable purchase, it is recommended to choose the American version.
Silicone oil and hyaluronic acid are added to the formula to make the skin feel smoother and more moist. Please have more dry skin.
The "micro-ecological" skin care advocated by Lancome's second-generation small black bottle adds hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid (exfoliating component) to BFL, but the key point is that it is a hydrogen ion buffer, which can control a constant pH range for a long time. Help the skin maintain a healthy weak acidic environment, promote its metabolism and resistance) and yeast essence and a variety of prebiotics, more effectively promote skin metabolism keratin, enhance the resistance of skin barrier.
There are also whitening ingredients such as AA2G, which have alcohol to help penetrate, making the skin feel lighter and lighter, which is more pleasing to oily skin.
L 'Oré al Black Essence, in addition to the latest probiotics, is really a cheap substitute for Lancome. As long as a thin BFL, you can't go wrong.
label
Today's discussion about the fermentation products of Schizosaccharomyces is over. When I searched literature and analyzed the internal mechanism of skin care, I realized the most important point.
Maintaining the health of the skin and even the body, delaying aging, the most important thing is precisely the secret that we used to think that female stars deceive people:
Keep an optimistic attitude and be happy. Go to bed early and get up early, exercise more, have balanced nutrition and eat more fruits and vegetables.
Even the latest research can prove that the positive effect of happiness on the skin is quite high.
Therefore, this is back to our cliche. Don't be afraid of time, please face every wrinkle calmly. Because the growth of wisdom is the most important thing.
Finally, send you this sentence:
"The past" is an eternal thing in each of us. When we grasp the "past" again at some favorable moments in life, we will "feel that we originally existed absolutely".
Andre Moroya
References:
Zhang Jian? Cao Huaen. Study on the protective mechanism of antioxidants on DNA damage [J]. Journal of Biophysics? 1997,? 013 (001):123-127. Chen Xu, Zhen Yaxian. UVB-induced basal layer mutation of human tissue engineered skin [J]. Chinese Journal of Dermatology, 201(2): 655. Sang Jianli. Ultraviolet-induced DNA damage and the occurrence of skin cancer (2)[J]. Biology Bulletin, 2004,39 (2): 4-6. , Guo,. Microecology of human skin and its relationship with dermatosis [J]. Bulletin of Dermatology, 20 19 (4). Brittany Castillo. Application of Bifidobacterium-specific lysate in the treatment of skin allergy [J].2009.RepairComplexCLR? PF(CLR) Audrey, Geliki, Philip, etc. Bifidobacterium lysate for skin reaction [J]. Experimental Mathematics, 20 10.